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2018 M2S Kush Fat Tire Ebike extensive posting (part 1 of 2)

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    2018 M2S Kush Fat Tire Ebike extensive posting (part 1 of 2)

    I apologize from the get-go for this very long 2 part posting. I have also posted the enclosed info on another ebike website. On this site, I have all that information PLUS even more stuff which has not yet been entered/posted at that other website.

    Also, an ADDENDUM has been added at the very end of Part 2 of 2)..

    So, here goes:

    If you go to the M2S website you will see 150+ reviews of the Kush dual suspension fat tire 750watt/48volt/16amp ebike and its companion hardtail ebike, the 750. However, for whatever reason(s), there don't seem to be any other websites with squat written about these wonderful beasts. Kinda weird. So, the following is my contribution to the Kush:
    I am 67 years old, weigh 180 pounds, and have a 30" inseam. The 2018 size Medium blue Kush is right at the limit for crotch clearance in my case. I own 6 bikes. 3 are old school (pre-ebike) bikes. I do alot of riding (50 miles a day is the norm). This magnificent dual suspension beast is my 3rd electric bike (ebike).
    My 1st ebike was purchased in Oct. 2017 for $849. It is a 2018 X-Treme(brand) TrailMaster Elite. It is a 300watt/24 volt hardtail with a (supposedly) top throttle speed of 20mph. That proved not to be anywhere near correct by about 8 mph.
    My 2nd ebike was purchased two months later (Dec. 2017) for $1,250 (it now sells for $1,600+). It is also X-Treme brand 2018 model, The Sedona. 500watt/48volt/10 amp. It is dual suspension. It will actually attain 20mph on throttle-only mode. It is a decent bike, all things considered.
    One day while cruising the local bike paths on the Sedona, I had a chance encounter with a 2017 M2S 750 fat tire hardtail bike rider. We chatted for awhile. Eventually a posse of local Lance-in-Tour De France roadie maniac youngsters came whizzing past. Us 2 old farts, both being 60+ years old, decided that we would chase down those rowdy rascals on our ebikes and, hopefully, breeze on around them. One of us did: the guy on the rear hub 750W/28mph+ M2S caught up to, and passed, the entire posse of hooligans. I was only able to maintain my initial distance because I was restricted to only 20mph. I was absolutely blown away by the power of that M2S fat tire machine.
    Needless to say, 2 days later (on Jan. 17, 2018) I placed my $1,850.00 order with M2S for a 750watt rear hub size Medium blue KUSH dual suspension fat tire beast. I had to wait until the end of April for delivery. During the 4 month wait, I constantly perused the internet looking for another ebike that compared favorably with the dual suspension Kush and which was also similarly priced. No such luck.

    It is now mid-July 2018. I have 915 miles on the odometer. This bike has impressed me every time I ride it. The 20 mph versus 28 mph top speed comparison cannot be understated. You will very much appreciate that additional speed being there should the need arise, especially since it doesn't really cost you any extra $$. I can easily go 50 miles distance on a battery charge (I will still have 2 bars remaining) using PAS 1/PAS 2 with the occasional thumb throttle boost thrown in. I average 14 mph on every Kush ride. The other 2 ebikes are only good for a distance of 15 miles and 30 miles max and neither of them has the initial get up and go that the Kush possesses. Bummer. Tough lesson learned.
    I wish that I would have had the foresight to buy this Kush as my very 1st ebike. It would have easily saved me $2,500+ (the cost of the 2 X-Treme ebikes plus their own specific incidentals). By the way, the Kush actually weighs noticeably LESS than the dual suspension Sedona non-fat tire ebike. Also, the Kush's Chinese build quality is top notch; 5 stars for sure. Problems have been ZERO.
    I believe the hydraulic brakes are probably overkill (at least in my case). I have not had to deal with them at all so far. However, down the road, I see swapping them out for wire cable brake units like my other 2 ebike already use. Keep It Simple.
    I have made a few alterations to my wonderful toy (see photos) just because that is what I like to do. The changing out of the original 36tooth crankset with a 46tooth dual chainguard (a necessity) crankset is a must-do for these bikes. The small 36t spins out too rapidly as you attain speed beyond 20mph; it feels like the chain fell off. Bummer. Usually, a 10 tooth increase means the need to add 4 or 5 chain links. However, in the case of the 750w rear hub Kush, I just "locked out" gear #1 and #2 at the rear derailleur so the chain is unable to shift up to them. With the PAS power/thumb throttle capability, you don't really even need those low gears anyway.
    The Kush has proven to be an absolute delight to own. The ONLY negative that I have been able to find is that the bottom bracket is lower than my 5 other bikes. The pedal will scrap the pavement when you go into a turn/lean if you don't position the cranks in the correct way (either parallel to the ground OR inside pedal at the top). I can see serious consequences occurring if this scraping happens "at speed". The OEM crank arms are 170m long. A 165m unit might lessen the chances of a scrape, but good luck finding a dual chainguard in that length.
    As for the photo's:
    1). The black tires are the OEM 4" type. The blue tires are 3" beach cruiser units. One of the reasons I bought the blue (instead of black) version is because a). free shipping and b). 3" inner tubes were included in the $60.00 per pair of tires internet purchase price. I mention the 3" inner tubes for two reasons: 1). inner tubes of this size, be it the 3" size or the 3.5"-4" size are not cheap. $10+ each is the norm. 2). the 3.5"-4" OEM inner tubes do not fit the 3" beach cruiser tires. It is like trying to cram a footlong hot dog onto a 6" bun. The too big tube will be folded up inside the 3" tire. No way around it.
    So, use a 3" tube from the get-go. Save the 4" tire/tube combo for another day.
    2). I own 6 bikes. Five of those bikes use a 27.2mm seatpost. I have a dozen seatposts and that many saddles, too. Each is a dedicated pair. I just swap out the entire combo when I feel like presenting a different appearance for any of my wonderful toyz.
    However, the Kush uses a 30.4mm seatpost. A 27.2-to-30.4 seatpost sleeve was necessary so that I could expand my options on the Kush. Those sleeves are inexpensive and they are available in a variety of anodized colors, so I bought 6 of them. You can see on the photos how I chose to utilize the extra sleeves.
    As for the sleeve actually used in the bike frame: I found that it caused slight slippage of the seatpost. To halt that, I found the ideal height for the seatpost/saddle by going on short rides. I used a piece of tape to mark the seatpost. I drilled a small hole at the rear of the seatpost and screwed in the tiny screw to act as a slippage stopper. Works like a charm, too. I just remove the screw (if need be) if I should decide to put that post on one of my other 5 bikes.
    3). This Kush has a carbon fiber/white stem, straight handlebar (carbon fiber unit is awaiting installation), black/white pedals, black/white saddle, carbon fiber (27.2) seatpost, red anodized non-quick release seatpost collar, red anodized seatpost sleeve (upside down-- a black unit is used inside the frame), hand grips w/red anodized trim, long barends with grips installed over them, gold hand grenade tire valve covers, red anodized lower pulley on rear derailleur, white USB auxiliary front headlight with strobe/flashing capability, seatpost mounted quick release water bottle holder, red anodized stainless water bottle, and a set of handcuffs. The OEM red wheel rim inserts have been replaced by black/white checkered duck tape. I also installed an "extender" on the handlebar to mount the ebike computer display because I didn't want the stem to be concealed by the display unit.
    The water bottle is just for looks because I always ride with a hydration system/backpack. However, in hot weather, I can use it to pour aqua over my pointy lil' head so that I stay cooled down.
    The handcuffs serve a practical purpose as secondary bike locks. My primary theft deterrent is a U-Lock mounted thru the forward section of the rear wheel. That way, the back wheel and the bike frame are secured. However, that still leaves the front wheel section vulnerable. Now the handcuffs come into play. On my bikes with "normal" (less than 2.0") size tires, I secure one cuff around the tire/rim. The other cuff goes on the front shock crossbar or the frames downtube. And, yes, a thief can simply cut the handcuffs chain link connecter, but they will be unable to ride away on the stolen bike because the handcuff on the rim will only allow a partial revolution each time. That covers normal tires.
    Now for disc brake and/or fat tire bikes. Those disc units have cutouts in them. A cuff arm will easily insert thru one of those holes. The other cuff will be put on the front fork above the disc main mechanism and then squeezed until it is unable to slide down past that mechanism. If used on the rear disc, just connect to the chain stay or seat stay. Only by using a key will the cuff(s) be able to get backed out (made wider) again. Again, a potential thief will be unable to ride away because the cuff will negate any kind of rotation. And, in the case of 50+ pound ebikes, he/she will most definitely NOT want to carry the bike away. Also, I firmly believe that a potential thief, upon seeing the set of handcuffs, either mounted under the seat (see photo's) or installed on a parked bike will seriously consider bypassing this bike (possibly owned by someone in law enforcement?) and go look elsewhere. Either way, what have you got to lose by using this very lightweight and inexpensive secondary bike theft deterrent??
    Also: handcuffs are available as either chain link connected OR hinged. While the hinged is definitely going to be much harder to cut through, it is also very much restricted in its area of movement and its fixed distance between cuffs. My 1st purchase was of the hinged style because it seemed more cut-proof (which it would indeed be). However, the restriction of movement and fixed distance quickly showed me that the chain link style would be much more practical. I now own 1 hinged and 3 chain link sets of cuffs-- each of my expensive bikes have their own dedicated handcuffs. Also, if you do buy more than one set, be darned sure that they all are the same brand. I carry 1 key for the hinged set and 1 key for the 3 chain link sets. Lesson learned. And be sure to install each cuff so that the key hole is easily accessible. Think about it. By the way, I used key holder rings attached to the seat rails as top anchor points and stretchy (think scrunchies) ponytail hair holders attached to a modified paper clip as the bottom anchor.
    The bar ends: I use them on all 6 bikes. I find them to be quite an aid for the 3 ebikes. Need to flip the 50+pound bike upside down? Kiss that computer display bye-bye. Got a top side thumb-type shifter? An Iphone mount? Hmm. The bar ends will protect all of that valuable real estate. Plus, you can mount them outside (as intended) or, way inside so as to just protect the computer display. Yer call. I have had my ebikes bottoms up on several occasions and the bar ends have been a great stabilizer and a real godsend.
    Well, it's time to go do a 50 miler/smiler. I hope you found something in this extended evaluation to be beneficial.

    Follow-up posting 4 months later (November 2018):

    I now have 3,280 miles on this beast and, both mechanically and electrically, it has been absolutely bullet-proof. The ONLY maintenance item has been to remove the rear shifter cable at 1,000 mile mark and lube it up with blue waterproof boat axle grease because it began shifting erratically. Other than that, this bike has been a perfect gem. Even the hydraulic brake system has performed flawlessly. However, this write-up does address 2 items which I have had to deal with since my April 2018 delivery.
    ITEM #1: Fat Tire tires and flats.
    I have never really been a fan of fat tires because I assumed (rightfully so) that , due to their huge footprint, they would collect that much more road /trail fodder than a regular 2” or smaller bike tire.
    My Kush has had 3 flats on the rear tire and 1 on the front tire. I absolutely hate getting flats. When I go on a 50-60 mile bike ride, I want to ride. I don't want to have to stop and dink with flat repair. I have 6 bikes. Three are old school (pre ebike) bikes and 3 are ebikes. One bike is a roadie bike using 700cc tires. Four are regular (not Fat) 26” wheel bikes. Two of those 4 are ebikes. Then, of course there is this fat tire monster. The 3 old school bikes all use Slime in the tubes and, as a result I have never had a flat while out on a ride. Nevertheless, I still carry all the required repair items (spare tube/ co2 cartridges/ inflator/ patches/ glue) on every ride for just in case.
    In regards to the two 26” wheel ebikes: My very first ride on my 2018 Xtreme (brand) TrailMaster Elite hard tail ebike (purchased in Oct. 2017) resulted in a snakebite flat because I was transitioning back and forth over a local pothole (testing the front shock/suspension seat post).
    It was when dealing with this dual flat that I was introduced to the very drastic differences between an old school bike rear wheel and a rear hub ebike wheel. I won't elaborate here. I did, however, make my initial foray into the world of “flat-free solid inner tubes”.
    In December of 2017, I ordered an Xtreme 2018 Sedona dual-suspension ebike. That bike has never had a regular inner tube in the tires. From the lessons learned (there were many) while dinking with the 1st ebike, the Sedona was a godsend in regards to my piece of mind about NOT having to deal with a trail-side loss of air pressure-- because there is NO air. When I ride these first two ebikes, I don't carry any type of tire maintenance items. Yahoo!! (There is a write-up concerning my Fat Tire Solid Tube experiment farther down this posting.)
    Now for the KUSH Fat Tire tires. The first of 4 flats (3 were on the rear wheel) was the result of an extended (into the tube area) spoke. The Kush had Slime installed, but, at this location, Slime won't do any good. Needless to say, I had a 3 mile walk back to the casa pushing a 60+ pound dead beast.
    The 2nd time rear flat was a slow leak so I was able to quickly co2 inflate the tire and go like hell back to the casa. This was a 5 mile trip involving 2 re-inflates and that throttle-only 28+ mph speed was a godsend. I made it home otay. I also discovered that Slime, while performing flawlessly on smaller diameter fairly high pressure tubes in clogging the escaping air, is not adequate in a large diameter large volume lower pressure bike tube (a fat tire tube). While dealing with each of these loss of tire pressure situations, I thought how nice it would be if it was the front tire going flat instead of the super heavy (25+ pounds) rear wheel. I could just go into “wheelie mode” and walk the beast home. A piece of cake.
    Well, flat #3 was the front tire. A catastrophic blowout at the end of a long descent. The side of the tire itself was destroyed. No inner tube repair this time. So the long walk began. But, hey, at least it was the front tire. Just wheelie that sucker for the walk home. WRONG!! Heavy (60+ pounds) and clumsy and cumbersome like you can't imagine. I finally got that sucker back home and it was then that “the process” began: how to go solid inner tube on a 4” fat tire?? I won't elaborate other than to say that I have spent at least $200 on yellow solid bike tubes (2 to a tire), 3” beach bum slick tires (black ones, blue ones) smaller-than-4” inner tubes. I tried everything imaginable in an effort to overcome the dreaded flat tire effect on a fat tire bike. Some experiments would be great for 100 miles and then things would go straight to heck. Time for plan b/c/d/e.

    Finally, things evolved into my current modus operandi. I have been using it for 700 miles and it works just fine and dandy.
    Start with the front wheel since it is much lighter/easier to deal with. Use any lessons learned to make the very heavy/cumbersome rear wheel swap out a smoother operation. As a precursor, let me tell you that I, personally, REALLY like the 3” beach bum slick tires on my KUSH ebike. The original 4” knobbie tires are just too noisy to suit me. These 3” slicks are absolutely Q-U-I-E-T. Therefore, my remedy to flatproofing involves 3” ers.
    Here are the ingredients:
    a). one pair of 26”x 3” beach bum slick tires.
    b). one pair of 26”x 2.5”Maxxis 559 Hookworm Urban wire bead tires.

    c).one pair of 26” x 2.1” tires (your choice of brand/style/etc). Mine were original on the Sedona.
    d). one pair of Kenda Downhill 26” x 2.3/2.75” 2.25mm schrader valve INNER TUBES. These puppies are awesome, by the way. For those of you preferring to go with/stay with the 4” fat tires, just go 4” tires, 3” tires, 2.5” tires, Kenda 2.3/2.75” inner tubes (your 4” tire inner tubes are way too bulbous to use with any tire smaller than 4”).

    Start out by mounting the largest tire on one side only. Now insert the 2nd largest tire inside the largest tire still using one side only. Now insert the smallest tire inside the 2nd largest tire using one side only. Now insert the partially inflated inner tube. Now start completely installing each tire. Inflate the inner tube. Game On, Baby! Concerning the use of "inside" tires: if you are buying new tires, get city/slick tread tires. As for the "outside" tire, it can be city/slick/knobbie, whatever you prefer. However, as an "inside", knobbies will give you a lot of air cavities between the tires. Slicks, on the other hand, will give you a lot of solid rubber, which will also come in handy should you decide to use a little green Slime (still recommended) in the inner tube(s), too.

    You might think that such a setup will be kind of heavy. Such is not the case. Plus, with an ebike, weight is not a factor like it is with an old school bike.
    So, anyway, I have been using this exact setup for the past 700 miles without the addition of Slime because I wanted to see just how effective the basic installation would prove to be. I still take a complete flat repair kit (including a tube and an 18mm open end wrench) with me on every ride for just in case.

    However, as I write this article, I figure that I may as well just go ahead and put some Slime in the tubes and hope/pray that nothing catastrophic ever occurs on my rides. I'll also stop carrying my repair items.
    By the way, after one of my recent rides, I was scanning my tires looking for impaled “stuff” and sure enough, dead center on the rear tire was a galvanized nail head looking back at me. Since the shafts on these puppies are usually 1”-1.5” long, I was really dreading removing this sucker. But, I grabbed the needle nose pliers and began the slow withdrawal of the invader, listening intently for the hiss of escaping air. Luckily, the nail shaft had been severed and was a mere 1/2” long. No air escaped. Life was good. I filled the hole with silicone glue (or whatever). So, the fact that a 1/2” long intruder failed to penetrate to the inner tube means that I Win!! So, now, should you decide to, you can also be a winner. As a sidenote; I run 25-30psi air pressure in my tires because I ride solely on paved trails/ paths/ roads. I know that many fat tire bikers like to run much lower tire pressure-- even as low as 5 psi. You will just have to experiment to see what works.
    Also, when dealing with the rear wheel, prior to trying to remove the wheel, go ahead and remove the disc brake main body (2 screws) from the frame. The re-installation of your rear wheel will be a much smoother/simpler operation. Remember that you are already dealing with the chain/cogset/axle alignment. Do you really want to bend the disc as you manhandle that 25+ pound rear wheel?? Re-installation of the disc housing after successfully battling the other 3 items is simple as pie.
    An added bonus: The aforementioned "recipe" should also work just fine and dandy for assembling a pair of dedicated STUDDED ice/snow tires. Too much fun..
    Also, now would be a good time to customize your fat rim holes with decorative duct tape (I use black/white checkered pattern).
    As for new rim strip material, buy the 2.88” wide heavy duty Gorilla tape. 2 wraps around the rim will suffice. I use both the decorative duct tape and the Gorilla tape on both fat tire rims.

    Among my other Fat Tire flat tire experiments was the use of Mr Tuffy 3XL tire liners (the brown/black model @ $50 per pair). I have used Mr. Tuffy on some of my old school (not Ebike) bikes over the years and found them to be quite satisfactory in flat prevention (plus Slime, too). However, I was leery about those puppies being used on a fat tire because I thought that, as a result of using less than max tire pressure (30+ psi), they would "walk" down the tire from the top center position over to the sidewall area of the tire should I encounter any loss of air. I have had that exact experience on some of my other forays to the Dark Side in my unsuccessful attempts at eliminating fat tire flats.
    When reading Amazon Reviews about the 3XL, I noticed that more than a few reviewers were frustrated by the hassle of trying to get the liners to remain top-center during the re-mounting of the tire/tube. But, I figured What The Hey and bought a pair of the $50 liners. Also, many reviewers stated that they were using 2 liners (@ $50 pair) on EACH tire. That's a $100 investment for top-center tread protection only, lil' fat tire buckaroo's. I wasn't ready to be quite that committed so I just ordered 1 pair. Sure enough, they proved to be a real mutha to install. I never did complete the process. Instead, they were relegated to the infamous parts bin.. Down the road, I may try to insert them on the rear wheel ONLY between the largest (the outside) tire (3") and the 2nd tire (the Maxxis 2.5") just to see if they will stay put. If satisfactory, I will just eliminate the 3rd tire (the 2.1" Kenda knobbie). Or not. The 3XL liners aren't heavy at all. Plus, I can just tape the two liners together using my trusty heavy-duty 2.88” wide black Gorilla tape (a godsend, fer sure).
    Also remember that a tire will give extra protection AND additional stiffness down the entire sidewall area whereas the Mr. Tuffy 3XL only will protect the top-center tread area. Decisions, decisions.. By the way, the 2.88” wide heavy duty (black) Gorilla tape works perfectly as a fat tire rim liner. Do two wrap-arounds.
    As for another variance of my original "multiple tires per rim" configuration, a person also has the option of padding up (using 3 tires) ONLY the super heavy rear hub motor wheel and going with a less elaborate setup for the front wheel. After all, the front wheel is actually the exact same as on a regular (old school) bike. But, once you've had to do battle with that heavy rear wheel setup (especially while out on a ride), you will do whatever it takes to negate having to ever remove/install that rascal again.

    Now is a good time to mention my attempt at assembling a flat-free solid inner tube setup for my fat tire bike. For this episode, I used two yellow 26”x2.125” Stop-A-Flat solid tubes inside of one tire (on the rear). These tubes weigh about 25% less than the black Bell NoMorFlat 1.75”-1.95” solid tube (which I do use on both of my Xtreme ebikes). I figure more air in the yellow tube compound composition is the reason. However, these yellow tubes are much bigger in diameter than the largest Bell black tubes. That bigger diameter is an unqualified asset in rigging up a 3” fat tire/ 4”rim.

    These yellow tubes, a blue 26”x 3” Duro city tire, and my fat tire 4” rim, coupled with some heavy duty Gorrila 2.88” duct tape, actually all came together in a very successful, though short lived (200 miles) experiment. This setup was used only on the rear wheel, since it is so heavy and is also where a riders weight will be centered most of the time.

    I first took both yellow tubes and fastened them together side by side using the duct tape.

    My mistake was to wrap the tape every 6 inches (a gap) instead of butting each wrap-around right next to each other (no space to be seen). Next, I mounted the tire on one side only. I inserted the dual tube setup, completed the mounting of the tire (it was a tight fit along the sidewalls, which is good--no roll off), and then put the rear wheel back on the bike. And, it worked out just fine and dandy. The only downside was the lack of firmness at the very top-center of the tire (you could depress it easily). But, that item did not adversely affect handling at all. I believe that a section of 7/8” x 8 feet long black rubber auto heater hose tubing (at Lowes) top centered atop the 2 yellow tubes and then being completely duct taped in place will fix that situation. I intend to do exactly that if/when I return to dinking around with solid tube stuff.

    I put 200 miles on that rascal and there were no weird happenings. However, there finally came a time when the wheel/tire felt “off”. So, I removed the whole shebang and, sure nuff, there was an uh-oh. Since I had NOT completely wrapped the 2 tubes together, one of them had managed to completely inverse itself. The “teeth” side, which belong on the rim, had twisted itself inside out all the way around. Shit fire. Lesson learned.

    It was at this time I stumbled across the aforementioned multi-tire (3) experiment, so, for now, the dual yellow solid tube is on the back burner. However, if you, the reader want to give it a go, then by all means do so. It will work, but NOT with a 4” fat tire because those are too bulbous. The 3” beach bum-type city/slick tire, with its low cross profile will work just fine on a 4” fat tire rim. And remember that I weight a little over 200 pounds when I get geared up to go for a ride. Plus, my mighty beast rear hub Kush weighs 60+ pounds.

    I have added an ADDENDUM at the very end of the “2018 M2S Kush Ebike Part 2 of 2” thread to give some clarification on required steps needed to sucessfully mount a yellow Solid Tube setup on a Fat Tire on the first attempt because you really DO NOT want to have to go back and fix things later.

    Onward and upward.
    I have had my rear wheel off/on at least 20 times over the course of my many, many forays into flat-proofing that dang tire/wheel. My rear rim looks like it has been gnawed on by varmits because of all the tire lever/ screwdriver abuse that has been inflicted upon it. But, it still remains straight and true and that, my fellow readers, is what it is all about. Quite the beast indeed. By the way, I am still getting 65 miles per charge with 1 bar still remaining. I run out of gas before the ebike does. My trusty Kush is quite the beast indeed.
    As for my other 2 ebikes (Xtreme brand): they both utilize Bell NoMorFlat black 26"x1.75" solid inner tubes-- no air, so no flats.. ever. The Bell tubes are about 30% heavier (more dense) than the yellow Stop-A-Flat 26"x 2.125" solid inner tubes (I have both brands). I also wrap each solid black tube with Gorilla tape. I do 2 wraps perpendicular to the tube to insure that there will not be any "wiggle" in the tire/rim area (feels like your tire pressure is low). Do not leave any space between wrap sets. I found out the hard way what will happen if the tape is allowed to "walk" along the exposed solid tube. So, no space = no problems.
    I use 1.75"(Performance Forte Gotham ST) or 1.9" (Kenda 838 in black and in blue) slick city tires on both ebikes. The Sedona has 2,600 flat-free miles since I bought it last December (2017).
    In ending (finally), a person has the option of doing Rear Wheel/Tire Only in regards to my suggestions as to how to successfully do battle with the dreaded flat tire prevention on any rear motor hub ebike.. They are all quite heavy and super cumbersome to manhandle as you do battle to fix your limping mighty beast. Then, once you see just how well the "fix" works, you can repeat the same modus operandi on the front tire/wheel, too.

    That's it for Part 1. Now on to Part 2. (as of Jan 7, 2019)

    Last edited by Sic Puppy 2; 08-20-2019, 05:27 PM.