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2018 M2S Kush Fat Tire Ebike extensive posting (Part 2 of 2)

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    2018 M2S Kush Fat Tire Ebike extensive posting (Part 2 of 2)

    PART 2:
    You are now aware of my flat tire fiasco so, one day at around mileage 3,000, I'm 45 miles into a 60 mile bike ride. I don't know what I did/ran over, but suddenly I could feel the tell-tale wiggling symptoms of a tire loosing air. I stopped the mighty beast and checked both tires. Nothing wrong. So I re-mounted and started pedaling. Again the “feeling”. I stopped and this time examined the frame, etc. Sure enough, there it was: the seat tube had snapped clean in half. Nine inches from the top; right at the top of the control box (which is mounted on the rear of the seat tube). Bummer deal. This ain't good. Since I was still 15 miles from the condo, I had to form a logical thought which would get me home without further destroying my wonderful toy. Due to the rear suspension setup, the two pieces would be coming and going opposite each other as I progressed.
    I finally surmised that, by lowering my (27.2mm) seat post all the way down, I could effectively negate the “wiggle” because the seat post extended below the break. Yahoo!! Go Bobby!! I knew that any pedaling might still exert additional stress on the frame because the Kush uses a 30.4mm seat post, but I use a 27.2mm seat post with a 27.2/30.4 sleeve that extends 3” down the seat tube. Therefore a certain amount of “flex” might still be present. But, Throttle-Only to the rescue. Helped by a very smooth riding surface for the duration of the adventure, I plopped my hienie down on to the way-too-low saddle, pushed that thumb throttle and went home at 20-28mph for 15 miles, never even having to spin a crank (pedal). So, I got back to the condo and then commenced to form a thought as to the final remedy for this breakage.
    My 1st thought was: “oh boy, I'm gonna get a new bike (it was only 6 months old)”. However, after further analysis, I deduced that I would NOT be getting a new bike, but a new bike frame. I wasn't exactly crazy for either option because I was very, very happy with my lil' blue beastie buddy as it was finally built to MY satisfaction. Plus, there is no way that I want to disassemble/ de-electrify this complex machine. Old school bikes are no problem-o, but this ebike stuff: I don't think so.
    I ordered this Kush in mid-January 2018 and it finally arrived from China in April. During that time lapse, I had LOTS of time to consider this and that for my newest toy. I couldn't know for sure that the stock 30.4mm seat post would be long enough, so I got on the internet and ordered a 450mm long unit for just in case. No way in heck was I gonna wait another day or six for a component after waiting almost ½ year for the dang bike. Naturally, at some point after the arrival of the 30.4mm seat post, I stumbled across the infamous 27.2mm-to-30,4mm seat post sleeve ( I have more than a dozen 27.2 seat posts. My 5 other bikes are all 27.2.). So, the new long 30.4mm post was put in my parts bin.
    Fast forward to the broken seat tube incident: What to do, what to do...
    First I get my metal banded tape measure device and insert it down the seat tube all the way and also inspecting for potential electrical wiring/connectors down in the depths. Nothing down there. Then I take my installed 27.2 seat post and measure how much excess beyond 4” below the tube top exists. I then measure the extra 30.4mm 450mm long seat post. I determine that, by using my pipe cutter tool, I would cut the 27.2 seat post at 4” below the seat tube top and then cutting/removing the saddle mounting portion of the 30.4mm post at a certain length , I would have a full seat tube length support tube. A piece of cake. Plus, the 30.4 seat post section is both a snug fit AND is light in weight while still being strong/rigid (after all, it is designed to support a persons weight). Having done all the above, I inspect the seat tube to be sure the upper part and the lower part are tightly pressed together. I then take a belt to secure them so separation/spreading does not occur during the “operation”. Next, I get the trusty drill and drill four holes, 2 above the break and 2 below the break. Then I get some metal screws and install them suckers. TaDa.. The operation was a success. By the way, the bike was turned upside down so the metal shavings wouldn't fall down into the bottom bracket area. I have ridden an additional 200 miles on the mighty beast since this predicament, and things are all working just fine. Also, as soon as I fixed the KUSH, I performed the same operation on the SEDONA. However, I did not have to drill/use screws in that bike. By the way, most department store bikes use a 27.2 seatpost, be it aluminum or steel.
    During the course of this Part 2 story, I remembered back a few years to when my Mongoose dual suspension mountain bike (WalMart special) had exactly the same breakage situation. I also fixed it by the additional seat-post support method. Worked just great then, too. (apparently, rear suspensions put ALOT of stress on the seat tube).
    So, any of you folks riding ANY brand/model of dual suspension rear hub ebike may want to consider buying an additional seat post and dropping it down into your seat tube. You don't need to do any drilling, etc. The added rigidity will probably negate the chances of your mighty steed snapping in half at the seat tube like mine did. Lets face it, 60+ pound bikes, plus the riders weight (180-200 pounds), puts alot of stress/strain on any bike frame. I don't do any type of aerial lift-offs on my bikes. The rowdiest I ever get is “launching” off a curb.

    Finally: My 2018 M2S Kush ebike really is Da Bomb. I cannot praise it highly enough -- I am 67 going on 10 when I'm riding it. Just can' stop grinning.. However, if I were to do everything all over again, I would just buy the 750 rear hub hard tail ebike instead ($200 less expensive). I'd then go ahead and install a suspension seat post on it. My Kush rear suspension shock requires the purchase of an air shock inflation pump. I wouldn't mind so much if the front shock fork was also an air-inflated item. But such is not the case..
    So, thats it. I hope you got some decent information from this VERY long write-up.

    Happy Holidays all year round.
    And remember: Ride It Like Ya Stole It.


    ADDENDUM: This applies to Part 1, Yellow Solid Tubes on a Fat Tire rim explanation..

    I originally said to use 2 wraps around the entire yellow tubes. I also said to use a section of 7/8” x 8 feet long black rubber auto heater hose tubing (at Lowes) on the top center of the 2 tubes. Its job is to act as the high-center section of the tire when assembled. Your first incination might be to just set the rubber tubing in the groove (the “V”) where the 2 solid tubes butt up against other and then 2-wrap the whole shebang from the get-go. NOT a good idea. So, instead of 2 wraps around, just do 1 wrap around the yellow solid tubes. Next, set the tubing in the groove location and do a wrap around the whole tubes/tubing affair. This will ensure that a). the rubber tubing will not be able to eventually “walk” to the side of the tire, and b). the rubber tubing will NOT work its way between the two yellow solid tubes. If that indeed were to happen, you would have a “low” spot and a constant wump-wump-wump to deal with. I have been there-done that on more than a few occasions. No fun buckaroos. Also, concerning the hollow rubber tubing: Where the 2 ends meet up, do NOT insert something hard/rigid inside to act as a connecter. The rest of the hollow tubing will give/flex/compress as you are rolling along singing a song. But, the rigid item will not and, thus you will be dealing with wump-wump-wump on each rotation. I intend to use either a next-size smaller piece of clear rubber tubing inserted about 3” into each end of the original tubing OR I'll just cut a 6” section of bike inner tubing and roll it up lengthwise like a joint and cram it into the rubber tube.

    On another note: When you are dealing with any type of solid inner tube configuration, you CANNOT overlap anything at any time. A good example is how, when using Mr Tuffy tire liners, you are supposed to overlap the 2 ends. This will not work with solid tubes because they are pretty much rigid (no give at all) and the wump-wump-wump will be your constant buddy. However, what you CAN do, and I may do this if/when I decide to dink around with this solid tube scenario in the future, is to just butt the Mr Tuffy ends against each other. Take the gorilla tape and fasten them together. Next, give everything a wrap to ensure that the Mr Tuffy will NOT walk over to the sidewall area (because it will if you don't wrap it-- guaranteed). You can do all this prior to slapping the whole shebang inside the mounted 3” fat tire.

    If you follow my instructions, you should have tires which will give you many thousands of miles of NO MAINTENANCE tire/flat issues.

    The End (for now).
    ADDENDUM : The photo's were posted on Jan 3, 2019;
    Blue bike is 2018 M2S Kush.. 3,602 miles..
    Black bike is 2018 Xtreme Sedona.. 2,665 miles..
















    Last edited by Sic Puppy 2; 01-07-2019, 11:56 AM.

    #2
    Hmm... They should appear more "consistent" now..
    Last edited by Sic Puppy 2; 01-07-2019, 11:52 AM.

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      #3
      Basically unreadable due to color selected.....at least on my monitor. I'm seeing pale blue on gray, not reading that!
      Fabrication is fun! Build something today. Show someone. Let them help. Inspire and share. Spread the desire.

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        #4
        Gee, sorry about that. Apparently I used an incorrect filter on my camera.. I must delete those pic's.. There, it has been done..Let me try a re-post "later".

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