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My 2018 KUSH Fat Tire Combo recipes..

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    My 2018 KUSH Fat Tire Combo recipes..

    FYI: I may occasionally post Addendums to this thread. If I do, I will post a notice at the very beginning (here) showing the date, etc of the Addendum.

    I recently, due to some snowfall, replaced my usual 3” slick tire recipe with my 4” knobby tire recipe and went out to play in that snow. After 40 miles of trying to not wipe out constantly on said snow, I switched back to my 3” slick tires. One positive sidebar to the snow escapade is that I realized just how infatuated folks are with these big fat 4” knobby tires. Seems like every stranger I encountered while out on my escapades had a big smile on their face and said very nice compliments about the bulbous beasts. That only leads me to believe in the appeal of those big fatty tires. However, as an owner of same, I also know just how frustrating the reality of ownership of these Ebikes can be—specifically the flat tire dilemma. So, that being the situation, I am posting this information to, hopefully, inform you/them of some options which will make ownership of these wonderful Fat Tire toyz a more viable and logical expenditure.

    If you have read my 2 other posts on this M2S thread, you are aware of my experimenting with various concoctions to help negate the infamous fat tire curse: flat tires. I am dedicating this post 100% to those “recipes”.

    I weight 200 pounds when I get all “geared up” and walk out the door to go riding. I am 5'9” tall.My inseam is 30”. I am 67 years old and am retired. Therefore, my time is pretty much dedicated to my many wonderful 2-wheel toys (there are six). ALL of my riding consists of smooth paved/concrete riding surfaces. I don't partake in any kind of extreme/aggressive or off-road riding. Those days are behind me. My goal is to ride 50 miles every day, weather permitting. I tell you all of this information so as to give you a pre-qualifier of my particular cycling world. How/where you ride may have different results than mine when using the following Plans. But, what the Hey, give 'em a try.

    My wonderful blue, size Medium, 65 pound, nine month old M2S 2018 KUSH dual-suspension, 750w (one horsepower) rear hub ebike beast now has (as of Feb 5, 2019) 4,200 miles on the odometer. I have yet to get less than 55 miles out of a single battery charge. My best mileage has been 67 miles. On that ride I had just begun to see the battery indicator (on 1-bar remaining) start to flash. This is using PAS 1 and 2 with the occasional throttle-only option thrown in just for yits and wrens. I have toyed with PAS 3 a few times, but this is such a powerful beast that I quickly reverted back to the lower PAS's. There have been ZERO electrical/mechanical issues with this toy. I have only had flat tires (too many) and one instance of frame failure (see my other posts) to deal with.

    First of all, I am listing the copy/paste links to some tires/accessories used by me in my pursuit of attaining piece of mind in regards to tire air loss. I hope the WebMaster is otay wit dat..

    FYI: My 2018 Kush came equipped with 4” Kenda Juggernaut knobby tires:
    1. Sunlite Baja Bike Tire 3.5” Black tps://
    2. Two blue Duro Beach Bum 3” city/slick tires w/ inner tubes included:
    3. Maxxis HookWorm 2.5” tire:
    4. Sunlite 2.5” tire (this tire is a less expensive 2.5” option):
    5. Kenda Kiniption 2.3” tire:
    6. Maxxis 2.3”-2.7” heavyduty inner tubes:
    7. Motorcyle tire levers (spoon-type):
    8. Screw-in Studs for assembling a do-it-yourself ice/snow studded tire:
    9. Green Slime tire goop: Buy it at department store/auto parts stores.
    10. Eastman 7/8” x 8' rubber heater hose at Lowes:
    11. Yellow Stop-A-Flat solid inner tube: Use two per tire.
    12. Super Low Profile slick 3” tire. This tire appears to be even lower in profile than the blue Duro 3” slick/city tires listed as 2). above. :

    So, those are the ingredients needed.. I included the motorcycle tire levers because they really are the best way to go. Use either them or flat blade screwdrivers with at least a 6” shaft. Those plastic bicycle levers, and even the metal variety, are really no match for the fat tire rim/tire setup. I have used both and bending/deforming is eventually the result. Save them for your regular size tires and 1” rims.

    Also, if you are gonna be dinking around with your rims, you may as well personalize those big rim holes (which usually have red inserts) with one of these patterns: . YouTube has some excellent “how to install” demonstrations. Easy as pie. Just use the 2.88” wide Heavy Duty Gorilla brand duct tape as the rim protecter over the patterned duct tape. Do two wraps.

    Whenever I work on my wheels/tires, I use a deep plastic Tote storage bin to rest the wheel on. You can also use a dresser drawer. Just be sure to put a towel/blanket over the drawer to protect it.

    Also, whenever you remove/install the REAR wheel, be sure to unscrew the 2 bolts holding the disc brake housing. Let the assembly just dangle off to the side of the frame. When it comes time to re-install the rear wheel, you can first do battle with the chain, cogset, unique rear axle configuration (oblong) and its torque washers (they have a bent tip-- very important and are ONLY used on the oblong rear axle), and electrical wiring/connector. As a matter of fact, if possible, take a photo of the disc brake side of the rear axle PRIOR to removing the wheel. Use that photo to verify exactly how the torque washer and its bent tip should be inserted (in what order) on the disc brake side when re-installing the wheel. If you mount it incorrectly the brake unit/disc will be way off-kilter. Not a good thing. Once again: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. The aforementioned step also applies ANY TIME you remove/install that rear wheel.

    After winning that fiasco, it is a simple matter to put the disc housing over the disc, press and hold the rear brake lever, and tighten down the 2 screws. Easy as pie. Plus, you won't have to worry about forgetting that the disc (on the opposite side of the wheel) needs to be inserted/aligned, too. A bent disc is not a happy disc -- especially on the rear hub rear wheel.

    Some of the following recipes may have a certain amount of “play” (dead air) in the sidewall area. It is just something which is a little different than a normal single tire setup.

    My 4” fat tire combo recipe.

    FYI: My 2018 Kush came equipped with 4” Kenda Juggernaut knobby tires: . I must assume it is a given that all Fat Tire Ebikes come standard with 4” wide knobbie tires.

    Option #1: Go with a 4”/3.5”/3” (and 3” inner tube) triple combo setup, especially on the very heavy rear ehub wheel (15.2 pounds with NO tire/tube installed). It's a pretty solid option to make your wheel(s) 99.9% bulletproof (no flats), an excellent recipe.

    Option #2 :Use a 4”/3.5” dual tire setup. A good recipe is to go 4”/3.5” combo on the front wheel and a 4”/3.5”/3” setup on the rear wheel.

    Option #3 : In my other post, I stated that going 4”/3”/2.5” tire and 3” inner tube was a viable multi-tire option. I hadn't, at that time, actually attempted that patricular scenario. However, I recently ran this exact combination for a total of 40 miles due to my need/desire to go play in the snow (no fun). The reality is that here is alot of dead air space along the side walls. But, having triple sidewalls should serve as an excellent stabilizer. Also, by using 25+ psi tire pressure, there will be a solid top crown, which is a good thing.

    Option #3 : You can also go with a 4”/3” tire and 3” inner tube combo. This will be a great combo for the front wheel/rim. Again, you will have some dead air to deal with, but the tires should not roll off the rim.Use the front wheel as the test bed.

    For those wanting to play on frozen lakes/snowy trails/roads: The afore listed screw-in studs, combined with the 4”/3.5”/3” setup is just the ticket for that adventure. The main objective is an increased total tire thickness to safely accommodate the screw. You might also consider: a 4.7” monster tire for you really wild and crazy riders to think about:

    Use a 4.7”/4”/3.5” tire combo or a 4.7”/4” tire combo and 4” inner tube.

    That's pretty much it for the 4” tire setup..

    My 3” fat tire combo recipe..

    This section will be a lot more “mixed” due to the numberous tire/inner tube sizes that I have already dinked around with. In each Plan, add green Slime, if so desired.

    Plan “A”(three tire combo) : The outer tire is 3”.. The middle tire is 2.5”.. the inner tire is 2.3”.. The inner tube is 2.3”-2.7”.. This is the exact setup that I have been running on my magnificent blue KUSH beast for the last 1,700 miles. No Flats. No Problems. Pretty much bulletproof.

    Plan “B” (two tire combo) : Outer tire is 3”/ inner tire can be either 2.5” or 2.3”.. inner tube is 2.3”-2.7”. This is a good $$ saving option to use on the front rim. Should you ever actually get a flat tire, it is easy enough to deal with compared to the complicated (and VERY heavy) rear hub rim/wheel.

    Plan “C”: One 3” Duro city/slick tire and two (per wheel) Yellow 2.125” solid inner tubes. You will also need a section of 7/8” x 7 feet long black rubber auto heater hose tubing (at Lowes) and a roll of Gorilla HeavyDuty 2.88” wide duct tape (the same as mentioned earlier for use as a rim strip/protecter). Be ForeWarned: you will really have to “do battle” with the tire/rim when mounting/installing under this Plan. The motorcycle tire levers are specifically designed to handle the torque/leverage needed to spank dis puppy. Just take your time. Do NOT get frustrated. Baby steps. Believe me, I have been there-done that numberous times as I experimented with these (and the black Bell NoMorFlat solid tubes used in my two ebikes with regular 26”x1” rims). It is to your advantage to begin with the front wheel. It's much lighter in weight and a lot easier to manhandle if/when the time comes. Use any lessons learned when it comes time to attack that very heavy 15+ pound rear wheel.

    The 7/8” tubing will be used on the top center of the 2 solid yellow tubes. Its job is to act as the high-center section of the tire when assembled. Your first inclination might be to just set the rubber tubing in the groove (the “V”) where the 2 solid tubes butt up against other and then Gorilla tape wrap the whole shebang from the get-go. NOT a good idea. So, do one wrap (use a 10” length of tape) around ONLY the two side-by-side yellow solid tubes. Leave no space between the wraps, but do NOT overlap the tape either. Next, set the tubing in the center groove location and do a wrap around of the whole tubes/tubing affair. This will ensure that a). the rubber tubing will not be able to eventually “walk” to the side of the tire, and b). the rubber tubing will NOT work its way down between the two yellow solid tubes. If that indeed were to happen, you would have a “low” spot and a constant wump-wump-wump to deal with. I have been there-done that on more than a few occasions. No fun, buckaroos. Also, concerning the hollow rubber tubing: Where the 2 ends meet up, do NOT insert something hard/rigid inside to act as a connecter. The rest of the hollow tubing will give/flex/compress as you are rolling along singing a song. But, the rigid item will not and, thus you will be dealing with wump-wump-wump on each rotation. I intend to use either a next-size smaller piece of clear rubber tubing inserted about 3” into each end of the original tubing OR I'll just cut a 6” section of bike inner tubing and roll it up lengthwise like a joint and cram it inside the rubber tubing. By the way, don't scimp on the type of duct tape. I specify Gorilla Heavy Duty 2.88” because it definitely is the premium brand of tape. I found out the hard way how using generic brand (thin) duct tape will only bite ya in the who-ha in the long run.
    On another note: When you are dealing with any type of solid inner tube configuration, you CANNOT overlap anything at any time.Since you are dealing with a basically inflexible tube, any humps or depressions will be transmitted to you during every rotation of the wheel. Not a good feeling at all. Again, this ONLY applies to SOLID inner tube set-ups.

    You will actually be doing battle with the rim/tire/tube as you work the tire/tube onto the rim. Baby steps. One inch at a time. It might seem to be an impossible task, but you will eventually “seat” the tire. Also, every ¼ way around the tire install, flip the wheel over to inspect/ensure that the wire tire bead has NOT walked off the rim on that side. I had to deal with this item on a couple of occasions. No fun. Also, cover the valve stem hole to prevent dirt and water from sneaking into the tire cavity.

    In closing, on this option (Plan “C”) it should be understood that this configuration is for use on a smooth hard surface area. Don't even do any curb jumping. When you go on that first “shake down” ride, try to ride over different types of surface; concrete/asphalt etc. Some surfaces appear to be flat and level but, in reality, are not. They will transmit sensations that never appear in aired up tires due to the “cushion” factor. I have had to deal with this and it drove me nuts trying to figure out why the sensation came and went over the course of the bike ride. It was the road itself, not the tire setup. This was on newly paved roadway, too.

    If you treat these solid tubes right, they should last you for 1,000's of miles. You will never have a need to carry any type of tire repair items. Both of my other ebikes (2018 Xtreme Sedona (2,900 miles) and 2018 Xtreme TrailMaster Elite (750 miles) ) use the black Bell NoMorFlat solid tubes on their 26” x 1” wide rims. Those bike tires are absolutely maintenance-free.

    Here is another option to consider:

    The following 2 items might go really great together:

    Yellow Stop-A-Flat solid inner tube: Use 2 per tire.
    Super Low Profile slick 3” tire: This specialty tire appears to be even lower in profile than the Duro 3” slick/city tires listed as 2). above. I stumbled across this tire while cruising the 'net. It is entirely possible that, due to its very low height, will work very well with the Yellow Solid Stop-A-Flat and NOT require the section of 7/8” x 7 feet long black rubber auto heater hose tubing (at Lowes) after all. Just don't go bouncing over curbs, etc.. Smooth surfaces for sure.. Smooth ride.. No bent rims. Again: start your adventure by dealing with the lightweight front wheel/rim/tire assembly.

    Finally: In regards to my many experiments with multi-tire combo recipes, I also dinked around with that same concept using 1” wide rims (as used on “normal” bicycles) . It almost proved to be a success, too. The schrader valve stem I used just a tad too big. A presta could have squeezed in. Maybe. If you happen to have 1.5” (or wider) rims (on any size tire), a dual-tire setup is possible. You just have to be willing to try a recipe. And remember to use the front wheel/rim as the guinea pig, since it is much easier to deal with.

    For any owners of Ebikes using 1” wide rims:

    I am also going to include my latest Amazon review, as posted by “Bobster” on Amazon, in regards to the Bell NoMorFlat solid inner tube, size 26”x1.75” :
    Addendum posted on Dec 26, 2018:

    This is my latest contribution as to how to sucessfully use the NoMorFlat solid tubes on your electric bike (ebike). I am putting it at the very beginning so that you won't have to read/scroll through my entire (older) postings just to get to it.

    For you Ebike owners: some brands have REALLY screwed up instructions pertaining as to how to go about removing the rear motor hub rear wheel from the frame. All you need to do is REMOVE the battery (I don't even do that). No Juice.. No Power.. Duh on them.

    While my information can be used on any bike with rims that are one inch wide (the normal/usual size), I do not believe that NoMorFlat tubes, because of their heavy weight, to be the best addition to an old school (not an ebike) bike. However, for those fabulous electric bikes (especially the rear hub motor type), these puppies are a godsend.

    You can read the subsequent postings of mine to learn what bikes I have used these wonderful solid tubes in. Also, if you have a bike with tires/wheels larger than 26” (27.5”/29” etc), you will just need to do a little “surgery” to make these tubes functional. By that, I mean for you to buy a pair of Bell 26”x1.75” solid tubes and also a single 20”x1.75” Bell solid tube. Then, just as you cut&paste on yer puter, you will do likewise as you cut the 26” tube and then cut the 20” tube to size to use as the “gap filler” to upsize the 26” Bell solid tube. Use Heavy Duty 2.88” GORILLA brand duct tape to secure the cut pieces together (there is more on this duct tape item farther along on this posting).

    Now for the good info:

    By the way, my 2018 Xtreme Sedona ebike now has 2,650 Solid Tube miles on it and those tubes have performed flawlessly. That doesn't mean that I haven't learned a few lessons along the way (which you will discover if you read this entire posting). But, hopefully, this particular posting addition will be my final update.

    Equipment needed for the install:

    a). At least 2 flat blade screwdrivers with a minimum 6 inch shaft. Plastic tire levers are completely useless and metal tire levers will bend due to the extreme pressure needed to mount the tire.

    b). A roll of 2.88” Heavy Duty GORILLA brand duct tape. Do not use an inexpensive/generic type of duct tape because they are not strong enough/sticky enough to hold up to the abuse created within the tire after installation. Trust me on this one, fer sure. You are receiving 100% the benefits of my very many lessons learned as I have progressed to this current setup/install of these tubes.

    c). Either a storage bin or a dresser drawer on which to lay the wheel/rim to ease the very difficult installation of the tire/tube combination.

    d). A table with a ledge to allow you to hang all the duct tape strips that will be required to complete this operation. That way, you won't have to be stopping along the way to measure/cut/mount as you proceed.

    Thats all you will need.

    Begin with the front wheel since it is lighter in weight and MUCH easier to manipulate as you rotate everything. Any lessons learned can be put to good use when dealing with the very heavy/cumbersome hub motor rear wheel.

    You are going to be doing 2 wraps of the Gorilla tape as you progress around the Bell solid tube. I forget the length of tape I needed to accomplish this task (8”, I think), so cut a piece and see if it wraps twice around the tube. Now that you have determined the correct length, cut a bunch of strips and hang them along the edge of the table. Don't let them touch each other because seperating them is not an easy task. Now you can just grab-and-wrap.

    Sit down and lay the solid tube around you knees so that you can spread your legs, thus making the area that you are wrapping pretty much straight (instead of its natural curve). Just rotate the tube as you go.

    When wrapping, be sure to NOT overlap OR leave any space between the seperate wraps. Having either will result in the dreaded, and never ending, thump-thump-thump which only exists in Solid Tube setups (again, learn from my lessons). Butt the wraps right next to each other as you proceed around the tube.

    Okay, having completed the wrapping, just lay the wheel/rim on the storage bin/dresser drawer and prepare for battle.

    By the way, I use the following tires on my 2 Xtreme (brand) ebikes. Therefore, I can only vouch for them as being 100% compatible with my “formula”:

    Kenda 838 26”x1.9” city tire (I use both black and blue styles)..

    Performance Forte Gotham ST 26”x1.75” city tire..

    Both of these tires will be a tight fit, a VERY tight fit. And that is what you are aiming for.

    Also, if your tires are “directional”, be dang sure they are aligned correctly BEFORE the install.

    Make sure the tire is “mounted” all the way around the rim on the bottom side prior to cramming the solid tube unit inside.

    Begin to work your way around the tire just as you would with a regular tube, etc. However, every one-quarter distance around the tire, stop and flip the wheel over to be sure that the bottom side has not dislodged/become unseated (again, learn from my lessons).

    Eventually, the re-mounting will become VERY difficult. There will be ALOT of resistance. This is where the flat bladed screwdrivers will come into play. You will be proceeding around the rim edge in very small increments (the width of the screwdriver blade) as you approach the last half of the install, so just be patient. By the way, those rims can take ALOT of abuse, so don't fret bending the edge. And, even if you do, assuming your bike is equipped with disc brakes, it is a simple task of using lockjaw pliers to put the rim back to normal. Again, baby steps..

    Finally, you have mounted the tire/tube and can appreciate not having to do battle with the unit for many thousands of miles down the road.

    Now on to the rear wheel. Same procedure, except for one thing; assuming your bike has disc brakes, unscrew the 2 bolts holding the main disc unit to the frame and just let the unit hang there out of the way. When it finally comes time to remount the very heavy rear wheel and you are doing battle with the chain/cogset/specially shaped rear axle you will be glad that the disc alignment is not having to be factored in, too. Can you say “bend the disc plate”? After the rear wheel has been installed, just re-attach the disc housing to the frame. Ta Da..

    Having completed the install of the BELL Solid tubes, get something to cover the valve stem holes on the rim to keep out water, etc. I use bright green stickers the size of a nickel with clear packing tape over them. That way, I can point to them when discussing my tire/tube setup with other bike riders: “See those green dots? That is the location of the valve stem hole”.

    When you go out for a test ride, be sure to experiment on different type surfaces because, sometimes, there are imperfections in the surface that won't be noticeable on a normal air tube tire setup. I really learned a hard lesson on this little item. So, once again, learn from my experience.

    These solid tubes will give a very hard/stiff ride. Suspension at both wheels will make a big difference in comfort level. I use a very inexpensive suspension seatpost on my 2018 Xtreme TrailMaker Elite hardtail (front suspension only) ebike. It works just fine and dandy..

    Well, that is it for my latest rendition of the installation process. Feel free to keep reading to see what lessons I learned as I went along.

    By the way, I also own a 2018 M2S(brand) KUSH(model) dual suspension Fat Tire (4” wide rims, etc) rear hub Ebike and I have actually managed to make it solid tube flatproof, too. But, that is a story for another manufactorers (the “yellow” solid tube) post/review.

    And then, there is the multi-tire (3 tires per wheel) currently in use (800+ miles) on that same fat tire bike. Too many toys.. Too much mischief.. Sic Puppy/Sic Puppy 2..

    Last edited by Sic Puppy 2; 08-20-2019, 06:39 PM.