How to adjustment ALX13RC FastAce shock absorber on Surron 2021?

[Amigo]

Can anyone help set up and maintain information an ALX13RC FastAce shock absorber installed on a Surron X 2021? Maybe there is a video? Thanks.

[Brewstaa]

Do you no if the dmn volcano and the same thickness as the fast ace , as I had a surron with the fast ace but getting another one , and people are saying g they may be the dmn volcano in the next batch , I like the way the fast ace look so hopefully they look the same

[Datom]

Amigo I too have a Surron with the ALX13 front shock but do not seem to be able to find any info on it

[rotary]

I have e-mailed fastace in the past to try and get service information but they didn't respond.

The version I have are Coil sprung in the left leg as opposed to an air spring. I was told that they went to a coil as the previous versions had issues with the air spring, how true that is i'm unsure.

As the ALX13 are a upside down fork (USD) the Rebound adjustment sits at the top of the right leg (positioned in the centre of the large 43mm gold nut) and is easily adjusted with a flat head screwdriver. The Low Speed Compression (LSC) adjustment is located on the right lower stanchion foot just above the axle. The LSC can be again easily adjusted with a flat head screwdriver. The forks do not have any High speed compression (HSC) adjustment.

There is loads of content to explain suspension online but.....

Increasing the LSC in the + direction will decrease the amount the fork with 'dive' through its travel when braking and slower speed compressive hits. This is apposed to HSC which will adjust how the fork will react to high speed hits such as small rocks etc...If the spring rate is too low for your weight then this can be compensated by adjusting the LSC. Although not ideal i'm yet to find out how to change out the compression spring in the left leg.

In terms of setting the fork up, if it was an air fork i'd get the shockwiz on it. However with a coil fork i don't have that luxury.

I would start with the LSC and rebound mid way and work from there. If the fork feels that its diving through its stroke too much increase the LSC. If the front end feels like its not tracking properly or too "springy" slow the rebound down. If the fork feels like its "packing up" and not tracking quick enough then increase the rebound rate.

As already mentioned there is loads of media online which will explain it a lot better then i can.

The document I have found online specifies the torques for the fork as follow;

Upper crown pinch bolts - 16-18 Nm (141- 159 in/lb)
Lower crown Pinch bolts - 10-12 Nm (88 - 106 in/lb)

HOWEVER - I think 16-18Nm for the upper crown bolts is slightly too much and as i work in in/lb normally i torque all crown bolts to around 100 in/ib


Axle pinch bolts - I torque to between 90-100 in/lb.

Hope this helps

[Antenor]

Hi.
Someone know how to get the service manual?
I would like to know the oil quantity in the fork...
Thank you

[Groovy2]

Red Knob is Rebound dampening adjustment -
Blue Knob Compression dampening adjustment -

Turn IN to increase -

[kstein7766]

This is all I've found for the FastAce fork.. I'm probably just going to unscrew the nut on top of the left fork to see if it's an air fork or not. ... Messed with clickers the last two months and can't get it right. My Husqvarna Tc 125 is set up with air on left and rebound on right. Hoping this Fast Ace is the same way so I don't have to change spring rates.

[kstein7766]

FASTACE_ALX13RC_Left.pdf Looking to find a stiffer spring for my Fast Ace forks and only info I can find is this pdf.. Not sure what language it is so naturally, I can't read it. I need to find out the specs (length/diameter etc.) on the spring for the left tube... Any one out there that can help?

[Wolfman]

what diameter is the stanchion? I used a boxxer spring cut to size leaving 1.25 inches longer for sag for my weight. loading stanchion with socket just shortens the stroke, loads sag. does not fix weak spring rate.

[rotary]

Hi wolfman, did you have to unscrew the fork foot from the bottom of the stanchion to get access to the spring?

[Wolfman]

no, most springs come out the top of stanchion. left side being the spring side. I have a killa fork which works the same as the boxxer, but if you are running an inverted fork yes you will. its just the upside down. i ran a boxxer world cup for a while until seals blew out, then pot the killa with spring from boxxer works great for my setup. i run the red spring but I like it a little soft

[fjmartin]

Here is the manual for the coil/oil version of the shock: https://static1.squarespace.com/stat...3RC_spring.pdf

[rotary]

Stripped the spring side of my fastace forks today. Spring dimensions are;

420mm length
31mm OD
4.7mm gauge

[kstein7766]

Have you had any luck with finding a stiffer spring? I had mine apart back in December because of some sketchy noise coming from the lug at the bottom. that thin shim / washer had been folded in half some how... I really want to find a full set of internals for these forks. They have to be a copy of some japanese MX fork that was once produced for an 65cc or 85cc two stroke.

[rotary]

I was thinking of measuring a Boxxer spring to see if the X-firm fits. I ended up making a spacer up (20mm thick) which i fitted between the thin washer and the bottom seal assembly to add some pre-load onto the spring to adjust the sag point. I think there is very little pre-load on the spring initially. Maybe the washer flipped, or incorrectly fitted on assembly.

[kstein7766]

Yeah, that's a good idea. I ended up using a socket as a spacer and so far so good for preload. And yes, I think the lack of preload is the reason for that thin washer flipping up and then folding in half.

[kstein7766]

Any one find better internals (mainly stiffer spring) for the fastace forks?

[bailey-jay@hotmail.com]

Hello how to did remove the spring? I’ve got a stiffer one, can’t figure out how to remove it

[FullTwisting]

I have these forks too, and mine have an annoying case of stiction.

Any suggestions on how to diagnose and remedy the stiction?

[kstein7766]

I would try popping off the dust seal using a flat head screw driver (be careful not to damage the seal or stanchion) and then apply some seal grease in then reseat dust seal. Grab front brake and pogo the front end quite a bit and see how it goes. Also, letting the forks "relax" by loosening the lower triple clamps and axle pinch bolts could help if you haven't done that in a while.

[FullTwisting]

Thank you for the tips kstein776.

I've tried packing the inside of the seal with bearing grease, but it didn't really help. Is bearing grease too thick?

I think I'll remove the front wheel and see if that changes anything, or if just a single side has the issue.
I'll try the "relax" trick too. :)

[kstein7766]

Yeah, I think you're fine with bearing grease. There's was plenty of grease in mine when I did the tear down after about 500 miles of hard riding. I'm pretty positive that you'll see results by loosening everything up. Make sure you are tightening pinch bolts and axle end caps the proper way and not over tightening the lower triple clamps. I'll do this after every few hard rides and after a crash I'll also relax and reset upper triple clamps and headset.

[FullTwisting]

My stiction issues are a bit better now.

I removed the front wheel and tested each leg. The spring leg (rider's left side) seemed OK (though hard to compress by hand), but the other leg still had a bit of a sticky feel.

I loosened the lower triple clamps, then re-tightened. That seemed to help a bit... but difficult to tell.

I then remounted the wheel following some guidelines I found here: https://youtu.be/7qRIxzf9nqA

I think following these guidelines helped prevent 'tweaking' the fork tubes, which I think might have been causing some of the stiction I was experiencing.

It's not perfect, but it feels noticeably better now.