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How to adjustment ALX13RC FastAce shock absorber on Surron 2021?

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  • bailey-jay@hotmail.com
    commented on 's reply
    Hello how to did remove the spring? I’ve got a stiffer one, can’t figure out how to remove it

  • FullTwisting
    replied
    I've learned a few things about these shocks:
    1. They came shipped with both adjustments cranked all the way full. They feel much better adjusted about 1/2 way. I hope running them as shipped didn't damage anything.
    2. When installing the front wheel, this process seems to work best for reducing stiction:
      1. Insert axle, snug axle end bolts enough to center the axle, then loosen them
      2. Snug one pinch bolt
      3. Take bike off stand, hold front brake, and work the suspension. The goal is to get the stanchions aligned properly and moving freely within the upper.
      4. Put bike back on the stand and tighten the rest of the pinch bolts
      5. Finally, tighten the axle end bolts.
    I think some of the stiction I was getting was because I was tightening the axle end bolts before the pinch bolts. I think this was pulling the stanchions together just enough that they were not exactly parallel with the upper fork tube.

    The other thing I learned was: These forks kinda suck. They feel OK when just standing there compressing them manually, but when traveling over anything rough, they feel clunky. Slow compression handling is OK, but fast is pretty bad.

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  • rotary
    replied
    New forks will typically feel tight/sticky to begin with. As the fork bushings wear they should loosen up.

    Leave a comment:


  • FullTwisting
    replied
    My stiction issues are a bit better now.

    I removed the front wheel and tested each leg. The spring leg (rider's left side) seemed OK (though hard to compress by hand), but the other leg still had a bit of a sticky feel.

    I loosened the lower triple clamps, then re-tightened. That seemed to help a bit... but difficult to tell.

    I then remounted the wheel following some guidelines I found here: https://youtu.be/7qRIxzf9nqA

    I think following these guidelines helped prevent 'tweaking' the fork tubes, which I think might have been causing some of the stiction I was experiencing.

    It's not perfect, but it feels noticeably better now.

    Leave a comment:


  • kstein7766
    commented on 's reply
    Yeah, I think you're fine with bearing grease. There's was plenty of grease in mine when I did the tear down after about 500 miles of hard riding. I'm pretty positive that you'll see results by loosening everything up. Make sure you are tightening pinch bolts and axle end caps the proper way and not over tightening the lower triple clamps. I'll do this after every few hard rides and after a crash I'll also relax and reset upper triple clamps and headset.

  • FullTwisting
    commented on 's reply
    Thank you for the tips kstein776.

    I've tried packing the inside of the seal with bearing grease, but it didn't really help. Is bearing grease too thick?

    I think I'll remove the front wheel and see if that changes anything, or if just a single side has the issue.
    I'll try the "relax" trick too. :)

  • kstein7766
    commented on 's reply
    Yeah, that's a good idea. I ended up using a socket as a spacer and so far so good for preload. And yes, I think the lack of preload is the reason for that thin washer flipping up and then folding in half.

  • kstein7766
    commented on 's reply
    I would try popping off the dust seal using a flat head screw driver (be careful not to damage the seal or stanchion) and then apply some seal grease in then reseat dust seal. Grab front brake and pogo the front end quite a bit and see how it goes. Also, letting the forks "relax" by loosening the lower triple clamps and axle pinch bolts could help if you haven't done that in a while.

  • FullTwisting
    replied
    I have these forks too, and mine have an annoying case of stiction.

    Any suggestions on how to diagnose and remedy the stiction?

    Leave a comment:


  • rotary
    commented on 's reply
    I was thinking of measuring a Boxxer spring to see if the X-firm fits. I ended up making a spacer up (20mm thick) which i fitted between the thin washer and the bottom seal assembly to add some pre-load onto the spring to adjust the sag point. I think there is very little pre-load on the spring initially. Maybe the washer flipped, or incorrectly fitted on assembly.

  • kstein7766
    replied
    Any one find better internals (mainly stiffer spring) for the fastace forks?

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  • kstein7766
    commented on 's reply
    Have you had any luck with finding a stiffer spring? I had mine apart back in December because of some sketchy noise coming from the lug at the bottom. that thin shim / washer had been folded in half some how... I really want to find a full set of internals for these forks. They have to be a copy of some japanese MX fork that was once produced for an 65cc or 85cc two stroke.

  • rotary
    replied
    Stripped the spring side of my fastace forks today. Spring dimensions are;

    420mm length
    31mm OD
    4.7mm gauge

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20220304_174438003~2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	406.2 KB ID:	148542
    Attached Files
    Last edited by rotary; 03-05-2022, 08:55 AM.

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  • fjmartin
    replied
    Here is the manual for the coil/oil version of the shock: https://static1.squarespace.com/stat...3RC_spring.pdf

    Leave a comment:


  • Wolfman
    replied
    no, most springs come out the top of stanchion. left side being the spring side. I have a killa fork which works the same as the boxxer, but if you are running an inverted fork yes you will. its just the upside down. i ran a boxxer world cup for a while until seals blew out, then pot the killa with spring from boxxer works great for my setup. i run the red spring but I like it a little soft

    Leave a comment:

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