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Kaniwaba power pedal kit install

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    Kaniwaba power pedal kit install

    I recently got the electronic parts for the Kaniwaba power pedal kit (I have already installed the pedal kit with just the chain drive as the electronic parts were out of stock). Would like to provide a quick review of my install and impressions of the control. Kaniwaba does have very detailed install videos of the kit as well, and I suggest you go there first and view those.



    Previously, I have installed the pedal kit only, which includes the brackets, pedal shaft, sprocket for the jack shaft, and freewheel/sprocket for the pedal shaft. I ride mostly on the street in CA, so this kit provided the appearance of e-bike legal pedals, even though you cannot actually pedal the bike with this kit as the gearing is way too low. The electronic portion of the kit adds a cadence sensor to the pedal shaft, a controller that connects between the stock throttle and the sine wave controller, a mode switch mounted on the bar, and a small bracket to keep the cadence sensor from rotating on the pedal shaft. The cadence sensor and controller intercept the throttle signal, and allow a substitute signal derived from the pedal cadence (rotation rate) to drive the bike. Pretty cool. The mode switch has three positions, "I", "II", and "0". The "0" position is stock throttle control. The "I" position is pedal cadence control only. The "II" postion is throttle/and or/ pedal control. One thing I did notice is that in "I" or "II" positions, the top speed is considerably below my top speeds in stock position. For my stock bike (delimited), top speed in EP is 32 mph; in Sport mode is 42 mph. These stay in "0" mode. In "I" or "II" mode, top speed drops to 18 mph in EP mode and 32 mph in Sport mode. This is for pedal cadence of about 60 RPM (my max comfortable cadence) in "I" mode, and WOT/60 RPM in "II" mode.

    Throttle dynamics while pedaling is actually pretty good, with minimal jerkiness and speed variation, although there is some. There is also a delay of a few seconds between the pedal cadence rate and speed response of the bike so you need to take that into consideration when approaching intersections and conditions where you need to stop. I find postion "II" to be the most useful, because you can use the throttle to get you moving and the pedals to sustain speed once you get going. The other advantage with pedal control is that it reduces arm pump pain I get on longer trips because I don't have my right hand on the throttle constantly and can remove it or reposition it and still keep the bike moving. I also find speed control to be smoother using the pedals than with the throttle, especially on the street in EP mode running near 30 mph.

    Regarding the install of the kit, the Kaniwaba videos cover it pretty well. A few notes on my experience.

    As I mentioned, I started with the pedal kit installed. To add the electronic controller parts, I had to remove the right side pedal, crank, and bracket. The right side pedal/crank are right hand threaded. Remove the pedal so you have room to use the crank puller. I use a Park tools bicycle crank puller that threads inside the crank once the crank nut is removed from the pedal shaft. Remove the pedal bracket after removing the crank. Remove the pedal shaft locking spacer. Now you can mount the cadence sensor on the pedal shaft. This is a bit tricky as it is difficult to get the sensor on the shaft. Getting it over the square tapers is easy but getting it on the rounded portion of the shaft is difficult by hand. The trick I used is an extended length 17 mm socket and a light rubber mallet to gently tap the sensor on the shaft. Be sure it is oriented properly, with the "toothed" side facing out (right side of the bike) and the cable extending to the front of the bike. I used the locking spacer pressed against the cadence sensor to "square up" the sensor on the shaft so it does not wobble when rotating the pedals. The sensor bracket mates up with a mounting hole (the upper one) and sits between the pedal shaft mounting bracket and the frame. All very well engineered. Parts fit precisely without jury rigging. Connect the wiring as shown in the video and mount the three position mode switch up by the throttle on the bars. Tuck the controller and wiring up under the controller. I removed the stock rubber shroud around the connectors because it just gets in the way and really does not provide any weather proofing. This allowed for a lot more room to pack the Kaniwaba controller and extra wiring.

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