48v vs 52v BBHSD reliability?

[FolsomRider]

I am running a Panny 52V 11.5Ah on my BBSHD build and I haven't found there to be any excessive heat and it runs like a top on my Specialized Comp Disc build.

[Eric Luna]

This is such a good thread i am moving it to the BBSHD knowledge base

[Arboh]

Or always ride downhill.

[JPLabs]

Trailinator,

Simply put: 52V will allow more power. Anytime you boost power, there is a trade-off with durability.

When you run more power through anything mechanical, it runs louder and wears out faster. So, yes, 52V will absolutely wear it out faster. But these are tough and take it just fine.

If you value getting the absolute longest life possible, more than going faster, then stick with 48V.

Edit to clarify that the increase in wear rate is small, and won't generally be a problem! But, it's there. More like a few %, not 50% not something to worry about for nay but the most durability-focused users.

[JayC]

I think I will try 45A to see if that is "fun enough" for me...(I love it now at 30A, but...if 30A is good, wouldn't 45A be better?)

'Horsepower's Theorem' applies here: "Too much is just enough."

[JayC]

Actually, It should increase reliability. Higher voltage (within tolerance range which 57v is) = fewer amps for a given wattage = cooler running motor. ..."Am I right about this?"

No. The motor control runs current, and max current is what is fixed, not power. Only a crazy person would run anything but max current, so higher voltage simply means MORE POWER!! (more heat too). Differences in reliability with a 52V system including the additional 8% power is negligible, IMHO. Incidentally, full charge on a 52V battery is 58.8V, so there could be some issue if there were 60V FETs in the controller - I'm pretty sure the BBSHD controller uses 75V FETs though (IRF3077).
.

[Arboh]

I accidentally popped a wheelie this morning with my BBS02 @ 25amps... gave me a nice adrenaline shot. Can't imagine doubling that... Might just be too much fun.

[spinningmagnets]

When the volts on a system are raised, the extra power comes on more gently than when amps are raised. If you want to pop wheelies and risk breaking parts, raise the amps

Eric has said that he used an external controller and raised the amps to 50A and it worked fine, concerning heat and parts breakage. I think I will try 45A to see if that is "fun enough" for me...(I love it now at 30A, but...if 30A is good, wouldn't 45A be better?)

[Louis]

Every time I get a new battery I charge to to 100% for the first few charges and for 8 hours. Insuring the pack is completely balanced

After a half dozen cycles I note the mileage and ride until it starts to stutter. I note the mileage and deduct 5-10% and never ride over that. I also used my multimeter, yes you need one, to check voltage. I have a guy that has no gauge of any kind. He manages to do all his riding and all his hauling and monitors only with a multimeter. He actually used the multimeter with a timer on his charger to charge at 80-90%. It's really quite simple.

I understand range anxiety. But no, in my opinion and experience, Bafang supplied display has ever been totally accurate. It is what it is.

The BattMan does more than give you battery level. It also is an important tool in solving battery problems. A wattmeter for less $'s can also do the job of giving accurate data and battery level.

[Alan B]

The DPC-14 has a setting for higher voltage batteries, and a display for actual battery voltage. It displays it's maximum voltage at first, then below 56.7 it tracks the Batt-man quite accurately. The battery graphic display is not recalibrated, but the voltage readout is accurate. I have written more about my bike and testing of the DPC-14 display here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi...p?f=28&t=78722

[rx3]

The biggest problem I've had with 52V is the Bafang displays don't give you good battery status information (except the new DPC-14). So they say the battery is fine until it is nearly dead. So get a Batt-man or a DPC-14 and a 52V battery and enjoy.

I rode my bike with a 52v battery the other day for 15 miles and my DPC-14 display never changed from 100%. I was pretty disappointed in its' inaccuracy. Ridiculous that I need to run a whole another display (Batt-man) with more wiring just to find out the status of my battery. How hard can it be to get this right? I wish they'd do a firmware update or something.

[Trailinator]

The BBSHD can handle 60 volts.

Source? Preferably a Bafang rep. :p

The only people saying 52V batts are a problem are a couple vendors that haven't got them in inventory. THAT's where the sour grapes are coming from.

My guy's actually installing a Luna kit. ;)

[Alan B]

Motor temperature might go up slightly, not down. One cell is 3.7V more, for 8% more power and 16% more heat in the motor under some circumstances. It is hardly a big change. Judging by the lack of failures being reported on 52V systems I suspect the additional failure rate is in the noise. User behavior is a much larger factor in how the motor and controller survive. Running at high torque for long periods of time is what produces increased heat in the motor. Let's not get into the technical reasons why increasing the voltage does not result in a reduction in current, because the way this controller works the current is controlled without regard for the voltage. The net result is a little more power, and a little more battery capacity. The biggest problem I've had with 52V is the Bafang displays don't give you good battery status information (except the new DPC-14). So they say the battery is fine until it is nearly dead. So get a Batt-man or a DPC-14 and a 52V battery and enjoy.

[Arboh]

Actually, It should increase reliability. Higher voltage (within tolerance range which 57v is) = fewer amps for a given wattage = cooler running motor. ..."Am I right about this?"

[Louis]

The only people saying 52V batts are a problem are a couple vendors that haven't got them in inventory. THAT's where the sour grapes are coming from.