Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

BBSHD Questions ? Post here for a quick answer

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #46
    i live in Toronto where there are a decent amount of hills (nothing really too killer) and have been doing uber eats delivery for the last 3 days and it has been taking a toll on my knees biking up and down. I'm trying to figure out if the BBSHD is overkill and if that the bs02b would be good enough and save on the bucks? I'm pretty much going to be going up and down these hills for 3-4 hrs at a time delivering food.

    Comment


    • paxtana
      paxtana commented
      Editing a comment
      I would not say you absolutely need bbshd for the torque, but it is more waterproofed with additional gasket on the secondary reduction housing. You might want that extra waterproofing if using it in the snow and rain. And even then, additional waterproofing is a good idea. See this page, the FAQ, for best practices for commercial use https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ter-repository

    #47
    Originally posted by inoob View Post
    i live in Toronto where there are a decent amount of hills (nothing really too killer) and have been doing uber eats delivery for the last 3 days and it has been taking a toll on my knees biking up and down. I'm trying to figure out if the BBSHD is overkill and if that the bs02b would be good enough and save on the bucks? I'm pretty much going to be going up and down these hills for 3-4 hrs at a time delivering food.
    thank you i will definitely do that when i get one of these.

    Comment


      #48
      Hi,

      I want to know if the BBSHD will fit onto this bike?
      https://www.progearbikes.com.au/prod...ng-mtb-black-1

      It says the bottom bracket is XR-BB04... but I can't find information on that standard.

      Here is what i've found regarding bottom bracket compatibility,..

      https://wheelsmfg.com/bb-standards

      Apparently the BB30 is ideal

      https://www.empoweredcycles.com/blog...d-drive-motors

      Comment


      • jjbbhd
        jjbbhd commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you for the help.. so just to clarify, do you think I could fit the BBSHD onto this bike? if i need an adapter could you please suggest which one?

      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        You probably can make standard bbshd work. No promises, but you should be fine

      • jjbbhd
        jjbbhd commented
        Editing a comment
        Thank you!

      #49
      I'm looking at my first build, primarily for a commuter. I don't NEED the extra power, but an extra $100-$150 isn't going to make a difference in this build. SO, given that info, would I be better off with the BBSHD or saving the money and getting the BBS02?

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        BBSHD has more water resistance and is easier to service, as well as having a bit more installation flexibility. While these are not huge differences and the bbs02 is widely regarded as a good motor, like you said that extra bit of case is not much more in order to have a model that is arguably better in every way.

      #50
      Bbshd with 52 volt wolf battery and full color screen. Battery is about 2 years old. When I first got it it would charge to 58ish and I would hit the low voltage cut out around 30ish. I seem to remember even getting into the high 20s, perhaps 29?

      Fast forward two years and I am now only seeing a max charge of about 53 and I hit low voltage cut out at anything below 51ish. Is this just the signs of a dying battery? Once I hit low voltage cut out, I can only reawaken the display by either charging the battery or disconnecting the battery and holding the power switch for 10 seconds then reconnect the battery to do a hard restart. But then I still have to gimp it home and hope it does't cut out again.

      Stephen

      Comment


      • Bullfrog
        Bullfrog commented
        Editing a comment
        IMO it is time for a new battery :). You probably have a weak cell or cell group that is causing the battery BMS to turn the battery off. Charging to 100% (58.8v) and running it down real low are hard on the battery...I'd recommend charging to no more than 57.4v which is approximately 90% SOC and don't drop much below about 50v which is approximately 25% SOC...that will make your battery last a LOT longer. If you regularly need more capacity then get a bigger battery i.e. more "p" in the 14s?p. Just FYI, Electric cars use something like 85%–25% to prolong battery life. It is OK to charge to 100% occasionally to ensure cell balancing but don't let the battery sit at 100%, only do it right before you plan to ride. If you are not going to ride for a while, charge to about 54.9v...3.92 volts per cell is the batteries happy place. A programmable charger makes everything I mentioned pretty easy.

      #51
      Which LVCO? BMS or controller?

      30 is waaaaaaaaaaay too low for a 52V battery (should have used even more "a"'s!)

      That would be only about 2.14V per cell and that's likely a good way to kill them - I get queasy much below 3V

      Comment


        #52
        By low voltage cut out I mean the bike completely dies and the screen goes blank. I have always assumed that was the lvco. I am not sure what bms versus controller means.

        Comment


          #53
          Generally both the controller (the electronics for the motor) and the BMS (the electronics inside the battery) both have LVCO... the BMS is not readily adjustable and the BBSHD controller (it's inside the motor) can usually be adjusted with a programming cable

          My LVCO in the controller is set to42V which frankly is on the low side for a 52V IMO but I also run 48V so it's a compromise.. the BMS is lower and I haven't ever hit it since the controller catches it before


          Another very important thing to keep in mind is that when you talk battery voltage there's a big difference between the "resting" voltage - the battery has been sitting at least a few minutes with no load and the "loaded" voltage... when it comes to state-of-charge (SOC), i.e. how much charge is in the battery, the resting voltage is informative. The loaded voltage provides information best when you are comparing it to the resting voltage at a given SOC.

          For example, let's say I've got a 52V battery (14s)... At 70% SOC will have a resting voltage just shy of 50.8V (~3.63V/cell) and at 50% about 48.3V (~3.45V/cell)

          These are rough since Li-ion battery and resting voltage is non-linear, particularly near the top and bottom of the SOC range, and frankly not that accurate, but a good place to start the discussion

          Many consider a 52V battery to be at 0% SOC at around 45V (~3.21V/cell) resting. That doesn't mean you can't draw it down further, just that to maintain a reasonable amount of charge cycles for the life of the battery that's a good place to consider it "empty". Since the loaded voltage will be less than that and how much depends on how much load is on it, the LVCO is set a bit lower than that...

          I hope your recollection is off. Drawing a 52V battery all the way down to 30V, and presuming that's the loaded voltage, will almost certainly cause the battery to suffer and get a lot less cycles over it's life... if the resting voltage is allowed to go that low I can't imagine it lasting long at all...


          I recommend peeking at the controller setting for LVCO - it just takes a "programming cable" and PC. If it's lower than 40V I'd adjust it to at least 40V...
          Last edited by AZguy; 08-29-2020, 02:47 PM.

          Comment


            #54
            Thank you! I will definitely pull out my programming cable and look into that. I have never done so and all is factory original.
            For discussion sake, if I am recalling it incorrectly, which it appears that I likely am, why would I be experiencing lvco at anything below 50 now versus 40 previously?

            Comment


              #55
              The voltage under load (sag) may be hitting the LVCO... batteries at lower SOC and older batteries have more voltage sag under load

              Comment


                #56
                Hello everyone I just installed my new bafang 1000 watt mid motor kit and charged battery fully powered on the unit and the only thing that works is the power on button and the display. throttle doesn't work at all, pedal-assist does not work. I get no error codes on the display and when I squeeze the brakes I don't get any engage or disengage symbol on display. I can use the controller to change pedal-assist it shows all 9 on display but doesn't spin the rear wheel when I pedal its all my power. the 1st thing I did was remove both wires that connect to the brakes in case they were disengaging the motor but the same thing, only display works nothing else. what next guru's?

                Comment


                • paxtana
                  paxtana commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I would follow the troubleshooting knowledge base thread, especially check that maybe one of the phase wires hasn't come loose, also if you have a gear sensor unplug that for the moment

                • tommie
                  tommie commented
                  Editing a comment
                  and check that white multi-connector when you`re in there, one of those little pins inside it may be pushed back, ... that`s what tripped me up.

                #57
                Thx guys battery wasnt sitting in the cradle right.

                Comment


                  #58
                  Hey there, I happen to have a 120mm BBSHD on hand that I ordered for a Fat Bike that didn't materialize. I've got a MTB handy with a 92mm BB shell -- I've recently built up it's twin using a 100mm BBSHD that worked out great. Can I add appropriate spacers etc to the 120mm BBSHD to get it working with this bike, or will it simply be too wide to use?

                  Comment


                  #59
                  My bbo2 display shows battery and it's charged,. Motor doesn't work. Tried pulling wire and reconnecting. What you think. Working last week. No problems.

                  Comment


                    #60
                    Originally posted by tenmile View Post
                    Hey there, I happen to have a 120mm BBSHD on hand that I ordered for a Fat Bike that didn't materialize. I've got a MTB handy with a 92mm BB shell -- I've recently built up it's twin using a 100mm BBSHD that worked out great. Can I add appropriate spacers etc to the 120mm BBSHD to get it working with this bike, or will it simply be too wide to use?
                    Thanks Paxtana on your comment above. I had a read through and understand what would need to be done with spacers etc. Given that I know the 100mm fits perfectly -- good chainline etc... am I just asking for issues using the 120mm on the same frame? I guess the Q-factor on the two bikes will be different by 10mm per side, not sure how much of an issue that would be...

                    Comment


                    • paxtana
                      paxtana commented
                      Editing a comment
                      It would probably not be noticeable. One of our colleagues would do these kinds of conversions fairly often using larger motors on smaller shells and he said it's not something you can tell unless you were looking for it. That said, I have known couple people that were OCD or something throw a fit about the offset of the cranks. Does not appear to be the norm though.
                  Working...
                  X