BBSHD and Quick Release Rear Axle

[Fredy1]

Hi,
Question for anyone running a Bafang BBSHD mid drive on a bike with Quick Release style rear axle. Is the clamping force of the QR sufficient to prevent the rear wheel moving from the power of the BBSHD?
Seems to me it would be a potential problem, so just interested to see if I'm overthinking it.

Thanks in Advance.

[ncmired]

What kind of rear dropouts does your bike frame have - what material, and style: vertical, horizontal sliding (track style), old English slide?

[Retrorockit]

Definitely not a problem with vertical dropouts.

[73Eldo]

If you have horizontal drops and you can't run all the way forward you may need some sort of tensioner or spacer like these: https://surlybikes.com/parts/monkey_nuts

Surly and others also have chain tensioners that would do a similar thing. Sometimes you have to look under BMX parts for those.

One of my bikes is a Surly and has the 'track fork' style in the above photos. If I'm all the way forward in my drops I can't get the disc brake to align properly. If I'm not against something the torque from the HD hauling my fat ass around would constantly pull the drive side forward even when I was going as tight as I could get the QR.

[Retrorockit]

OMG disc brakes and horizontal drop outs.LOL

[ncmired]

Lightning will probably strike me but .... I think most Surly dropouts are the worst abominations - along with the bottle opener tugnuts, monkey nuts, numbnuts and other nonsense. This one is particularly bad:

Pardon my Reservation Dogs language, but what shitass designed this garbage?

Meanwhile, next door at Salsa, they have one of the best adjustable dropouts, the alternator - sister company; go figure:

Want different axle compatibilities, possibly thru-hole? Different plates are available. Everything stays aligned with the plates when the chain slack is adjusted or the wheel removed - brake caliper, fender, IGH torque components, etc. Strong as hell, and it stays put (leave the adjuster screws in (not shown above)).

Meanwhile, nothing happened?!? No lightning, heart murmor - nothing. Maybe the spirits agree with me.

[Retrorockit]

The only thing missing are the chrome plated wing nuts.

[73Eldo]

Mine is pre through axle so slightly less complex. I have never seen a through axle one up close and wondered how they did that. I would have to agree the Salsa method seems better. I do wonder why unless you are going fixie why you don't just use some sort of tension device? I guess its likely mostly a problem for fat people with mid drives?

I think the reason there is no lightning is all the Q bike brands seem to be a lot more dead than alive since 2020. They claim they are alive but don't seem to be producing anything but demo/review bikes. I'm here at the home of Surly and the local shops can't get any bikes. One shop said they would usually get a few hundred bikes per year and a hot new model maybe 100 of just those. I think I asked when the Ghost Raptor? came out on youtube and the shop said they were supposed to get like 3 'sometime'. I still see them out on the trails but have not seen any of the newer models. I like mine and wouldn't mind another because I really like steel but so far I'm pretty content with how I currently have my walmart aluminum schwinn with the Surly steel fork.

[ncmired]

I do wonder why, unless you are going fixie why you don't just use some sort of tension device?

Fixed position tensioners get in the way when dropping the wheel out of vertical dropouts. Not impossible, just clumsy. At least when I've tried them on bikes with longish threaded axles, like the Rohloff TS DB and the Alfine.

When I'm pissed off after flatting, I'd like things to go as smoothly as possible.

[Freerojo]

I have a 96 Cannondale Tandem with a BBS02B that I installed last year. After 30-40 miles rear shifting degrades. At first I thought it was the necessarily long shifting cable run. Then I noticed the rear wheel just slightly askew. I reset it, shifting is fine for awhile until the wheel goes askew and of course I bring the wheel to center.

my question, is it possible to put a shim to prevent the wheel being pulled off axis by the motor? Or do I have to really, really clamp on the quick release? My wrist ain’t what they used to be.

[Retrorockit]

Quick release and horizontal drop outs don't play well together. Look for some of the horozontal drop out chain tensioners like Surly Tugnuts , or similar items from other single speed vendors. BMX uses that layout also.

[Freerojo]

Quick release and horizontal drop outs don't play well together. Look for some of the horozontal drop out chain tensioners like Surly Tugnuts , or similar items from other single speed vendors. BMX uses that layout also.

My dropouts are vertical.

[Retrorockit]

I do hard launches from traffic lights all the time. No issues at all. The torque is resolved at the motor. The forward thrust is metal to metal going forward.
The drive of the chain around the rear cog is pulling the hub UP into the dropout. I use Pinhead locking skewers to avoid theft , and keep wiseguys from loosening up my QR. I also have them on my headset, and seatpost to keep those secure.