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Chain & cassette wear gears 'slipping/popping' BBSHD/BBS02

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    #31
    Originally posted by muttleytm View Post
    I have a new BBSHD and I'm at the bottom of mid-drive learning curve. So far I've learned you want steel for the drive train components. I picked up an 8 speed cassette, I think it is Shimano or SRAM that was recommended and some recommended solid rivet steel chain. I'm using a Shimano Acero deraileur. I have it adjusted so it shifts OK. The chain stays on the gear that it is in, whether only using manual power or while applying the motor. However, the chain skips over the teeth when I apply power, the more power the more skipping. This is the case both on the larger sprockets where the chain is engaged with many teeth as well as the smaller one, where only engaged with a few.

    I've tried removing a couple links and it maybe helped a little, I'll try removing a couple more to get the tension higher. I've adjusted the tension screw (that just adjust the height of the deraileur), but, I don't see that it has any effect. I'll play around some more.

    I'm just using a deraileur I have lying around. I'm wondering if there are other models that might be better for the higher power that have heavier springs or springs that have better adjustment of the spring tension.

    I can see that wear can cause this, but, all of these parts are brand new. Only a few miles on them and they are all steel, solid rivet chain parts recommended for mid-drives.

    Any suggestions on deraileurs for use on this 8 speed (with some pretty large diameter cogs) application. I'm also not necessarily looking for the most expensive deraileur.
    What chain do you have? Is it an 8 speed chain? How about a photo with it in the lowest gear "largest sprocket"?

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      #32
      When i was .New to this obsessed on the chain wear issue. I went to a sturmey hybrid hub with 14 lowest and 36 largest count. I also rearranged cassette so only 4 speefs are used. No sideways torque pn low gears with straight chainline. Most shifting is done with the igh.
      this allows lower gearing without sacrificing a fast high speed you get with the tight radius 10 11 12 13 count cogs. More chain is engaged on cog less chance of slip. Trying to drive in too high of a gear puts more pressure and more wear on gears and chain.
      proper chain length and 8 speed, not ten speed chain. Dry lube and chain cleaning. When gears get sharp, they loose their flat tops replace them.
      When you lift chain off the front ring it should not lift higher the 1/8 inch. Replace it.
      i have had frozen links. (Abusive incidents) They cause skip and derailleur damage. No wal mart chains. Shimano either. Sram ok. Kmc x chain is my favorite.
      I now run x chains for 6000 miles plus. Before i was happy with 2500.
      keep your rpms up. Dont shift under power. Dont get your pant leg caught in chain!

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        #33
        Hi Guys
        I'm new here and I am just prepping my Atomic MTB (pics to come in a build thread).
        I have ordered a BBSHD with 42t alloy chain ring, twist throttle, gear change switch and a 48v 17.5Ah battery with 30A BMS.
        The bike has an 8 speed cassette and I was wondering what is the optimum chain alignment ?
        Should I try for the middle set or either end, It will only be used for a bit of cruising in the country and for a daily trip down to the shops, about 4km roundtrip.
        I ordered the BBSHD for durability issues not performance and my riding is conservative. Given that the extra coin is little compared to the overall I figured get the larger unit and detune the firmware to 20A or so to guarantee reliability.
        I'm a 40yr of RC racing so Lipos and tuning brushless systems is a bit old hat, it is the mechanical setup that have little experience of and would appreciate any opinion.
        It seemed this topic was pretty close to my subject so I thought posting here would illicit a relevant response.
        Thank
        Smooth Roads
        Bill from Bathurst.

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          #34
          Ideally the chainline is perfectly straight in the middle gear, though you probably need eclipse or lekkie for that unless you rework the cassette which we have docs on in the knowledge base.

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            #35
            Originally posted by paxtana View Post
            Ideally the chainline is perfectly straight in the middle gear, though you probably need eclipse or lekkie for that unless you rework the cassette which we have docs on in the knowledge base.
            Thanks for that, I ordered a bling ring so I assume that has the correct offset.
            we'll see.
            If not I'll get a Lekkie, If I'm going to spend this much, another $100 or so to get it right is money well spent.

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              #36
              Yeah should be fine. As long as the lekkie or eclipse is 42t or larger. There's offset comparisons on the kb

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                #37
                Originally posted by Brycevr View Post

                Thanks for that, I ordered a bling ring so I assume that has the correct offset.
                we'll see.
                If not I'll get a Lekkie, If I'm going to spend this much, another $100 or so to get it right is money well spent.
                If you're getting this from Luna Cycle, I'd recommend being careful to check the alignment and not install the bling ring if it doesn't look like it aligns as well as the stock Bafang.
                I bought a 42T Lekkie ring with my BBSHD kit (for my Trek DS8.4). The offset was about 3/8" less on the Lekkie than on the stock Bafang. I figured the Lekkie would work fine, but after a couple of slips in the first week, I switched it to the Bafang (cured the problem).

                So, I wrote to Luna and asked them if I could trade in the Lekkie for one with more offset. They said that it it had been installed, no deal. So now I have a useless Lekkie 42T ring.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Stock is actually pretty good, just that it's heavy steel and not narrow wide tooth profile. Always fit the stock one first to get a frame of reference.

                  Lekkie 42t has about 1.5mm more offset than stock. This is described on the measurements on our comparison.
                  https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...g-offset-guide

                  Even on Lekkie's own website it is clear that 42t and larger have a nice offset just like stock.
                  This image is on the Lekkie listing at Luna but was copied directly off of Lekkie's promotional materials. They measure things a little different so it is not the exact same numbers as our guide but it is clearly very close to stock offset.

                  lekkie-bbshd-offset-2.png

                  Adcockj Yes it's true we can not take a return on a used chainring as it would not be fair to resell it as new. But that's no reason to spread false information about chainring offset. There is no way the 42t version has 3/8" less offset than stock, only their smaller rings have less offset. Like I said, as long as it is 42t or higher it's fine.

                  Smaller chainrings than 42t, even the lekkie rings, do NOT have much offset at all because it can not wrap around the secondary reduction housing due to the small size of the ring.

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