I like the value of the Rad Rover, but would like the power of the Luna BBSHD. Would it be practical/possible to add a Bafang mid motor to this bike?
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You would want to measure and verify for yourself. Only way to be certain.
http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...ight-bbsxx-kit
Also be mindful of the possibility of an intrusive chainstay. May want to measure the chainstay and see how many spacers, if any, you would need -
I've got a radrover and another bike with a BBSHD. The radrover looks like it would have plenty of room from the BBSHD and the chainstay on it is further back than most frames so looks like zero issues with that. It does look like ti may be larger than 100mm and if you are really interested I can measure.
So how would you coordinate power between the mid-drive and the hub-drive? They have very different controls...Comment
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Hey AZguy, I just bought a Radrover and want to put a Luna BBSDH on it. Question what do I do with the hub-drive? I'd like to completely remove it and not just cut the wires off. What did you do. Can I just get a through axle that accommodates a disk brake and install my sprocket cassette on it. Thanks. -
Is the Rad rear hub motor dead? If not, it might be worth trouble leaving it operational to work in tandem with a BBSHD? Otherwise, you'll probably want to replace the rear hub re-laced to the stock rim or close enough matching rim?
Ghetto method would be to simply snip the wires and let the hub motor be your pedal hub? But I'm not so sure how long it will survive with 1500W BBSHD tugging on the chain/freewheel?
Using only leg forces I've broken hub motor side covers on my high mileage hub drives, where the chain freewheels attached.
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Use the standard hub motor for cruising, and the mid-drive rigged up as "throttle-only" control as a Super Charger!Comment
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That'd work but the hub motor sort of gets redundant. For me, by far the greatest advantage of the hub drive is that it is very low work load and easy for newb's. With the mid-drive you tend to shift and twiddle the PAS a whole lot more than the hub-drive - with the hub you can just sort of set the PAS and pedal and if you don't shift much it will only bite you going up a hill. I loan out the rad for rides frequently and people just hop on with little explanation, my mid-drive only gets lent to folks that ride a lot and will sit for a five-minute orientation ;-}
But other than how lazy and easy a hub-drive is the mid-drive just plain excels in pretty much every other way (it is admittedly harder on the drive line). Hill-climbing, ease of maintenance, efficiency, acceleration, etc. are all better with the mid-drive.Comment
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And particularly for fat tire bikes ridden in soft sand, snow, dirt, loose gravel, tall grass, etc. Mid drive is by far the best choice for fat tire bikes.
OP, I'd suggest buying a Gravity Monster or similar $500 fat tire bike then add BBSHD kit/battery. You could easily afford 2qty 13.5Ah packs and still be under budget compared to buying a RadRover and converting it to mid drive. -
I agree with ykick. The radrover is an entry level bike on both the e-bike and bicycle fronts - i.e. the frame and components are ok but on the low-end side. Cable pull disks (not a big deal, but I'm spoiled by hydraulic), 7-speed freewheel [vs. cassette], it's very heavy and feels heavy in the handling and the fork is well.... sloppy and handling above about 15mph is not so good.
I still thinks it a great entry-level e-bike for the buck but after about 6 months riding / 2000mi I wanted a mid-drive and bought a nice fat-bike and set it all up with a BBSHD, high-end components including a bluto fork, nice four-pot hydraulic brakes and 11speed wide-ratio cassette and this cost about the same as a rad with BBSHD and is just an amazing machine especially compared to rad. My other friends with rads have ridden it and one of the first thing they notice is how light it handles compared to rad and the unbelievable hill climbing ability in contrast too....
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Pictures coming . I am test/ installing a SSHD to my 2021 Rad Rover 6 plus. Just need to route the wires and attach the rear rack battery for a working machine but have issue I will need to resolve for a permanent install. . It took a 100mm one. The square bottom tube means the motor is facing straight down ( less clearance), PAS system need modification to work. It changed from the 5 Rad to a ring about 1/2 wide that has teeth that fits very well into the bottom bracket. It's a sharp design but now will not work without some modification. It looks like a man's wedding ring for Andre the Giant with protruding teeth just like the a bottom bracket puller. It appears too wide even if I grind down the teeth to fit between the pedal arms and bracket. I just pulled if off and pushed it to the side for now. Also, the OEM Rad wires run just above the motor and will need to be moved before they get potentially crushed or over heated. I don't know how the make the mechanical brake level cut offs work on the hydraulic brakes I have. I am only going to attach the brake cut off to the rear wheel for better performance. The set up looks pretty good. I'll take some pictures and post asap. I know it sucks not having pics. The alignment of the 52 tooth sprocket from bafangdirect usa sits on the third from smallest sprocket. The Rad 6plus has 7 sprockets. I'm not sure the speed sensor is long enough for the fat tire frame but will see. The motor did rotate up when I gave it a little power on the stand. I thought I torqued it properly so there is an issue I need to address.
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This page briefly covers some basics of shimming the speedo sensor bracket if needed https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...x-speed-sensor
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Thanks man.Comment
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