Chain slipping

[brone]

Hello,

Got a BBS02, put it on with a new chain, but I think I may have the chain one link too long for the setup, now my bike keeps slipping gear on any little amount of torque i give it, any resolution to this? Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcqPPoW868g

[tommie]

Did you index the derailleur?
Looks to me if it`s trying to get up onto the next gear for a split second.

[calfee20]

Hello,

Got a BBS02, put it on with a new chain, but I think I may have the chain one link too long for the setup, now my bike keeps slipping gear on any little amount of torque i give it, any resolution to this? Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcqPPoW868g

Is that an old or a new sprocket set on the back. Old sprockets and new chain can do weird things.

[tommie]

I had similar problems with my BBS02 conversion, it never ran good on that small 11t cog. In the end i went for the Alfine 8 IGH rear wheel.

[brone]

I might try adjusting the rear derailleur , but it looks straight to me (pic 1), after that I just might try buying and fitting a new rear casette

[Freewheelingf]

It's a bit tough diagnosing from a video / pic but I might be able to offer some points. You say that the new chain was installed with the BBS02 motor, which I'd guess replaced a 3 speed chainring (although not important, it informs my first impression). You need to test all your cassette sprockets and look at the alignment with your chainring sprocket. But my first impression is that the chainring sprocket to smallest cassette sprocket is too wide of an angle and is causing the chain to start to jump to the next sprocket. If that turns out to be the case then you have different replacement chainring options (https://youtu.be/gJOO2lWuVKo).

I'm assuming the rear derailleur indexed correctly before the new setup, but you could have altered something when you fitted the new chain so you should check that (loads of youtube how to videos). Example: https://www.artscyclery.com/learning...railleurs.html

[brone]

Adjusting the rear derailleur didn't work guess I'll try swapping the rear casette :(
To Freewheelingf: Yep I was using a 21 speed with 3 chainrings in the front

[Freewheelingf]

If your chain slips in every gear then it may be your rear cassette or a problem with your derailleur.

Not discounting other advise/thoughts, and not saying I'm a guru or 100% sure but if it's slips in the smallest sprocket on your rear cassette but gets better/stops as you shift down through bigger cassette sprockets then your chain may be too long. As your rear cassette sprockets get bigger then greater tension is put on the chain/derailleur mechanism and chain length becomes less of a problem.

I still suspect it's your chainring at the front. If your bike was designed for three chainrings to work across your rear cassette then a standard Bafang chainring may be positioned too far inward for the smallest and outermost rear cassette sprocket. Remember riding your bike with 3 chainrings? It'd work even if you shifted to your smallest innermost chainring and your smallest outermost rear cassette sprocket, but not at its best. Ideally you'd only use the outermost rear cassette sprocket with your outermost chainring sprocket, although your middle chainring sprocket would work pretty well across all your rear cassette sprockets.

[calfee20]

I might try adjusting the rear derailleur , but it looks straight to me (pic 1), after that I just might try buying and fitting a new rear casette

That rear drop out looks bent. Maybe you could try this.

[max_volt]

Yes the dropout and chain are no ways near being parallel which means the hanger is askew also.

[commuter ebikes]

When I was setting up the derailleur for my 1 X 5 setup, I had to fine tune the chain length a lot. First it was too long. I took out too many links, but that made it too short. Then I added back in too many links which made it a little too long.

Quite frustrated, I fixed this by installing the chain on the largest freewheel cog (and the single chainring) with barely enough chain to fit and then added one inch (two chain links).

I use SRAM chains so it is really easy to add the PowerLinks to change the chain length. I used my chain breaker tool a lot. I think I ended up with about 3 or 4 PowerLinks in my chain by the time I finally got the chain sized correctly. I should buy two new chains and make a new, correctly sized chain with only one PowerLink.

Then it took quite a while to adjust the derailleur, trying to balance the adjustments on the shifter cable (tension) anchor, barrel adjuster and high and low limit screws. It took about an hour to find the sweet spot.

It sure makes it easier when you use the Master Link hand tools when removing and replacing Master Links. I found the SRAM ones easier to work with than the KMC ones because the KMC ones are more tight.

[calfee20]

After a lot of struggling with KMC master links I have found that if you squeeze across the width while you push the two ends of the chain together it will come apart easier.

[Freewheelingf]

I love your try and see method. It reminded me of my efforts before I found chain length calculator methods by searching for " how to get correct bicycle chain length"

[JPLabs]

When I was setting up the derailleur for my 1 X 5 setup, I had to fine tune the chain length a lot. First it was too long. I took out too many links, but that made it too short. Then I added back in too many links which made it a little too long.

Quite frustrated, I fixed this by installing the chain on the largest freewheel cog (and the single chainring) with barely enough chain to fit and then added one inch (two chain links).

I use SRAM chains so it is really easy to add the PowerLinks to change the chain length. I used my chain breaker tool a lot. I think I ended up with about 3 or 4 PowerLinks in my chain by the time I finally got the chain sized correctly. I should buy two new chains and make a new, correctly sized chain with only one PowerLink.

Then it took quite a while to adjust the derailleur, trying to balance the adjustments on the shifter cable (tension) anchor, barrel adjuster and high and low limit screws. It took about an hour to find the sweet spot.

It sure makes it easier when you use the Master Link hand tools when removing and replacing Master Links. I found the SRAM ones easier to work with than the KMC ones because the KMC ones are more tight.

I just squeeze opposite corners to undo-them. Regular slip-joint pliers work fabulously for this. To reinstall, I just hand assemble, then step on the pedal. Chain tension closes the Power Link again. Really easy and no special tool $$. You could probably even open them up with 2 rocks, if you had no tools. Bang on opposite corners.

[max_volt]

Isn't a chain with corners kinda like a square wheel?

[commuter ebikes]

I sure got really frustrated trying it without the Master Link hand tool. It took me a very frustrating 30 minutes the first time. I remove my chain whenever I remove the rear wheel so I don't have to struggle with the chain on the freewheel cogs upon removal and replacement of the wheel. Now I have become dependent on the Master Link pliers!

[JPLabs]

No corners? View chain from the top, not the side, to see the 'corners'. In other words, grasp opposite ends of each side plate. .

Maybe this isn't so obvious. Here's how I do it:
-Fold chain in a tight 180 at the SRAM master link, so that link is exposed from each end.
-Grab with pliers, 'crooked' so one jaw is on each side plate, pushing in the direction needed to separate the link.
-Medium squeeze of the pliers unlocks the link.

The secret is to fold the chain.

[JPLabs]

Ahh, here 'ya go. I use regular little slip jaw's though.

[brone]

I fixed the problem by removing everything in the back-end and reassembling again, put a new rear cassette, adjusted the wheel fitment in the forks and now everything runs smooth. On my maiden voyage my one crankarm came loose - I guess its a common issue. Also when I set the speed on the display to 99km there's still a speed limit of 25km/h :((, I guess the only way to hack it is to buy the usb controller cable?

[Freewheelingf]

Well done good news and wish you happy rides.

I don't have enough experience of the different displays. I seem to remember that unless you've got one of the newer colour displays then the only way to up the max kph is via the usb controller cable connected to a Windows computer running the config software.

[brone]

Hey, thanks :)
The display is P850C

[JPLabs]

I don't know that controller well. Check the menus. See if you can set that one to 'by display's control' for speed limit with an advanced menu or something. If not, you need the cable to do so.

[Freewheelingf]

I've got that controller. Also known as a DPC-14. The manual I've got says speed can be altered to between 25 and 45 kph. It could be that unless you use a value in this range then the default of 25kph is set.