Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Chain slipping

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • calfee20
    replied
    Originally posted by brone View Post
    Okay, the stock bafang crankarms are complete sheit, anybody know if I can fit a random crankarm from the LBS? I tried fitting my old SR Suntour's but it isn't really diagonal to the right bafang pedal, any help would be appreciated.
    There is an extensive thread on this. http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...-duty-are-they

    This thread is about something else but toward the end I posted some photos of Shimano Steps crank arms. http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...m-bb-bbshd-kit

    Leave a comment:


  • Freewheelingf
    replied
    I haven't any experience of Bafang crank arms slipping or failing so no experience of swapping out.

    I would start a new thread on this topic.

    Leave a comment:


  • brone
    replied
    Okay, the stock bafang crankarms are complete sheit, anybody know if I can fit a random crankarm from the LBS? I tried fitting my old SR Suntour's but it isn't really diagonal to the right bafang pedal, any help would be appreciated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Freewheelingf
    replied
    I've got that controller. Also known as a DPC-14. The manual I've got says speed can be altered to between 25 and 45 kph. It could be that unless you use a value in this range then the default of 25kph is set.

    Leave a comment:


  • JPLabs
    commented on 's reply
    I don't know that controller well. Check the menus. See if you can set that one to 'by display's control' for speed limit with an advanced menu or something. If not, you need the cable to do so.

  • brone
    commented on 's reply
    Hey, thanks :)
    The display is P850C

  • Freewheelingf
    replied
    Well done good news and wish you happy rides.

    I don't have enough experience of the different displays. I seem to remember that unless you've got one of the newer colour displays then the only way to up the max kph is via the usb controller cable connected to a Windows computer running the config software.

    Leave a comment:


  • brone
    replied
    I fixed the problem by removing everything in the back-end and reassembling again, put a new rear cassette, adjusted the wheel fitment in the forks and now everything runs smooth. On my maiden voyage my one crankarm came loose - I guess its a common issue. Also when I set the speed on the display to 99km there's still a speed limit of 25km/h :((, I guess the only way to hack it is to buy the usb controller cable?

    Leave a comment:


  • Freewheelingf
    commented on 's reply
    I love your try and see method. It reminded me of my efforts before I found chain length calculator methods by searching for " how to get correct bicycle chain length"

  • Freewheelingf
    commented on 's reply
    If your chain slips in every gear then it may be your rear cassette or a problem with your derailleur.

    Not discounting other advise/thoughts, and not saying I'm a guru or 100% sure but if it's slips in the smallest sprocket on your rear cassette but gets better/stops as you shift down through bigger cassette sprockets then your chain may be too long. As your rear cassette sprockets get bigger then greater tension is put on the chain/derailleur mechanism and chain length becomes less of a problem.

    I still suspect it's your chainring at the front. If your bike was designed for three chainrings to work across your rear cassette then a standard Bafang chainring may be positioned too far inward for the smallest and outermost rear cassette sprocket. Remember riding your bike with 3 chainrings? It'd work even if you shifted to your smallest innermost chainring and your smallest outermost rear cassette sprocket, but not at its best. Ideally you'd only use the outermost rear cassette sprocket with your outermost chainring sprocket, although your middle chainring sprocket would work pretty well across all your rear cassette sprockets.

  • JPLabs
    replied
    Ahh, here 'ya go. I use regular little slip jaw's though.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	587964d1293551024-tips-removing-sram-pc-850-powerlinks-sram_0003.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	63.7 KB
ID:	52164




    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • JPLabs
    commented on 's reply
    No corners? View chain from the top, not the side, to see the 'corners'. In other words, grasp opposite ends of each side plate. .

    Maybe this isn't so obvious. Here's how I do it:
    -Fold chain in a tight 180 at the SRAM master link, so that link is exposed from each end.
    -Grab with pliers, 'crooked' so one jaw is on each side plate, pushing in the direction needed to separate the link.
    -Medium squeeze of the pliers unlocks the link.

    The secret is to fold the chain.

  • commuter ebikes
    commented on 's reply
    I sure got really frustrated trying it without the Master Link hand tool. It took me a very frustrating 30 minutes the first time. I remove my chain whenever I remove the rear wheel so I don't have to struggle with the chain on the freewheel cogs upon removal and replacement of the wheel. Now I have become dependent on the Master Link pliers!

  • calfee20
    commented on 's reply
    After a lot of struggling with KMC master links I have found that if you squeeze across the width while you push the two ends of the chain together it will come apart easier.

  • max_volt
    commented on 's reply
    Isn't a chain with corners kinda like a square wheel?
Working...
X