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Bbshd failures and troubleshooting

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  • comand
    commented on 's reply
    I found a couple of tear down articles, and now I see why it's difficult to get the non-drive side of the motor off, and that taking off the controller is necessary. Could still use some advice as to whether the sound in the video might be solved by adding grease somewhere...

  • comand
    replied
    Hopefully someone can chime in with what might be going on with my drive unit. I am closing in on 1800mi on this drive, and it has been almost entirely problem free.

    A few weeks ago, I swapped out the cassette and chain which solved some chain jumping issues I was having under power in certain gears. I'm sure it's just coincidental, but after I did this, I started hearing vibration in the motor when under load; sort of a straining vibration. I thought the vibration would work itself out as the new drive train broke in, but instead the vibration got louder and louder. Today it was ridiculously loud -- pedestrians were staring at me as I rode by (probably not, but it was pretty loud).

    Here's a video of the drive with the main gear removed, note the terrible sound emanating from the pinion gear as it turns (note: bike is upside down). It's much louder under load.

    https://youtu.be/SZmpoxGLzYI

    I googled for suggestions about how to diagnose vibration issues, and rediscovered this thread and others on this forum that recommend adding grease, but I'm not sure whether I'm heading in the right direction. One of the links recommends not taking apart the BBSHD to grease, primarily because the detailed instructions are for a BBS02, and the BBSHD is built quite a bit differently, but other threads say that people have added grease to a HD unit to solve vibration issues, but there's no detailed procedure I can find (as of now, still looking).

    Any advice as to whether this could be solved with grease? I started to take apart the non-drive side of the motor to take a look at what's going on in there, but it was pretty difficult to take apart, so I put that on hold in favor of getting advice first. I couldn't find any HD tear down videos (or articles) that actually documented the tear down -- just the final torn down drive, so I'm concerned that I'm going to break something trying to get the housing off of the stator. Can I take that side of the drive off without having to take apart the controller?

    Thanks in advance for any pointers,
    - C.

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  • Rodney64
    replied
    Good outcome then.

    Leave a comment:


  • jawerbuch
    commented on 's reply
    Well, that was the problem! Relatively easy fix. I put a dab of glue on each of the three connectors (green, yellow, and blue) to keep them together. Thank you Rodney

  • Rodney64
    commented on 's reply
    I had the same issue and when i opened the controller one of the spade connectors was loose. It was just a matter to plug it back in and then pinch the connector lightly with a pair of pliers.The other option would be shrink wrap the connectors to future proof from pulling apart in the future. This would be the first thing to check,
    Last edited by Rodney64; 10-07-2016, 10:24 PM.

  • jawerbuch
    replied
    My girlfriend's BBSHD unit failed last night. Going uphill (on road) she noticed a "gravel-y" sound from the motor, and then it stopped completely. The display turns on and works normally, but the motor is completely dead -- not a peep when you hit the throttle or turn the pedals. Pedaling still works (but who wants to do that?). This unit hasn't been opened, nor has it been modified from the "stock" luna motor controller settings. I'll investigate a bit more, and probably disassemble the unit next week, and report back with more. In the meantime, I'll appreciate any suggestions!

    Leave a comment:


  • Tbro
    replied
    After about 400 miles, my BBSHD motor is starting to get loud.

    Sounds sort of like an oscillating knurdled gear noise, as best as I can describe it.

    Here is a short vid-clip that demonstrates. First I crank with the power off, then turn on: http://www.megafileupload.com/6vt1/Video.MOV

    The noise is somewhat quieter under load, that is while actually riding the bike.

    It vibrates louder and softer in intensity while the motor is running, particularly in lower gears.

    What is the recommended remedy/maintenance for this? Thanks
    Last edited by Tbro; 04-13-2016, 10:33 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Neil
    replied
    Been riding my new Ebike for a few weeks now :)

    Deadeye Monster, BBSHD, 52V bottle, Shimano 3 speed IGH, 30 tooth Mighty Mini, 26 tooth rear.

    Most of my riding has been "preliminary testing" in my yard before heading to the mountains.
    A few days ago, pedaling in low gear with full power pedal assist, I climbed a ~20' high 25 degree incline. Near the top, the drive uttered a short grunt, but kept on going. This has gradually evolved into a prolonged growl during full power acceleration in low or middle gears, but not high gear. Is this a preview of coming problems? A sign of needed maintenance? Or, just normal? I cannot feel any change in performance. My only concern so far is the new noise.

    Leave a comment:


  • JPLabs
    replied
    If it was only the accelerating problem, with motor staying on with throttle released, I would suspect it's simply a sticking or failed throttle. But, that wouldn't cause your range to drop on the displays. With 2 displays apparently failing to work properly on your bike, I think the trouble is elsewhere. Maybe a wiring problem between the display and motor? Or, you have 2 problems, throttle and something else.

    I don't know what is wrong, but I will suggest three things to try.
    1. Unplug the throttle to see if that improves things at all.
    2. Look very carefully at all the wiring, including at the pins in the connectors, to make sure it's not pinched, cut, or damaged anyplace.
    3. Check battery voltage directly with a meter, while the display is saying it is low. You could plug a meter into the charge leads to do this if you make sure nothing can short. If the voltage significantly drops when the range indication drops, that's probably a pack problem, not a display problem.

    Be careful and don't ride it except for responsible, careful testing, until you have the motor back under control.
    Last edited by JPLabs; 04-12-2016, 05:45 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • FabioItaly
    replied
    I already opened a new topic on this but since no response is coming, I also try here.

    Brand new BBSHD + 965 + 30 mighty + Satiator from Luna and 52V battery, 15 Amp, 25R cells assembled 14S 6P.
    Initially all was ok, First 4-5 miles great. T
    hen accelerating and releasing the throttle, the motor continued to run. Turning off and then on again the controller, the motor stopped, but accelerating and releasing always kept running. Then the battery charge indicator of the C965 started to decline very quickly even if the battery was fully charged. Soon after, the pedal assistance has started to create problems; by pedalling the motor started but ceasing to pedal the motor continued to run. Something pretty dangerous ...Last issue, the display has failed. I mounted a new c965, the accelerator always had the same problem and after a few hundred meters has also marred the second C965. I mounted a 961, the throttle works, but with the assisted pedalling the motor is very irregular.
    Please help.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bcnaturedoc
    replied
    The problem seems to have gone away by itself!
    Maybe it just needed a nap.

    Thanks for the quick response though!

    Leave a comment:


  • Louis
    replied
    You'll always see some resistance when trying to ride without engaging the motor. It's that way with a eBike kits.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bcnaturedoc
    replied
    So I've got about 2 weeks on my new BBSHD and its been kick ass. However today I started noticing a friction to my pedaling when I have it in PAS0. Its noticeably harder to pedal when not assisted by the motor and there seems to be a very faint whirring noise when I do. This all goes away as soon as I throttle or kick up the PAS mode, although I'm uncertain if its due to just going tons faster and not being able to notice.
    After reading this thread, I'm wondering if I may need to change my clutch? Or possibly the pinion gear?
    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

    Leave a comment:


  • Christian Livingstone
    replied
    You know,

    That's a cool feature of the Bafang units, in how the freewheeling clutch mechanism is so easily removed and replaced at a reasonable cost: $19.99.

    It's not so effortless and cheap to replace the clutch on the BMC geared hub motors that I'm currently running. I had one start slipping after about a year and a half of use, but it may have been partially due to an occasional tendency of mine to hold on the brake while also applying a bit of throttle right before take-offs, when I'm stopped at an incline, so that I don't roll back a little around cars or other traffic. I knew that that would cause some contention, but thought that the composite planetary gears (which I had spares for) would fail before anything else. But, no, the gears were surprisingly like new, and it was the clutch mechanism that is factory-shoehorned into a small channel of a somewhat costly part (which I had a spare of, at a cost of just over $200) that failed.

    Ultimately, I decided to just weld the channel together and go clutchless, which makes for a sturdier motor and allows for changing its rotation direction (which I did change to get 2WD), but does pick up some magnetic drag. So, I'm currently running one freewheeling and one clutchless, and still have a spare clutch and planetary gear set.

    So, the mid-drives are very cool that way. Even more so, the Cyclone mid-drive motor kit I recently received from Luna Cycle has its clutching/freewheeling as an external, rather than an internal, mechanism right on the output shaft, which makes for easy diagnosis, removal and replacement, if needed. And the Cyclone one is all metal too. But I'm diggin' the idea of the BafandHD too.

    Of course, a direct-drive hub motor has no clutch/freewheeling mechanics to fail, but has no gear reduction for better torque.

    In any case, this eBiking stuff is getting better and better very quickly.

    And the mid-drives are now a potent, elegant, and reasonably priced addition, which seem to have easier and lower costing repairs, to what I think is the weakest link in a freewheeling eDrive: the clutch.

    Leave a comment:


  • Louis
    commented on 's reply
    It's the disk in the middle. http://lunacycle.com/motors/mid-driv.../bbshd-clutch/
    Last edited by Louis; 03-01-2016, 08:49 PM.
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