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BBSHD low power after greasing

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    BBSHD low power after greasing

    Hi there

    God damn, I can`t belive how stupid I`m. I`ve just bought used BBSHD, used it for a month and loved it so much.... I`ve read all posts saying that it have to be re-greased to live long so I did that. I`ve re-greased it with Mobil 28, put all back together and suddenly I`ve noticed that when I put throttle at 100% it shows only about 0-3A current (before greasing it was 0-30A, lcd is eggrider v2, basic BBSHD controller). It looks like it has much less power... Anyone have idea why is that? I`ve reassembly it 3x times, double checked all the connections - all seems fine. I`ve tried it will less or more grease, I`ve tried to run it with or without main gear, I`ve tried other LCD - still no luck. Below are videos showing how it looks like. PS. of course video ends with error 21 as the speed sensor is unplugged.

    #2
    It's not going to pull much current unless the motor has a load - sitting on a bench I'm surprised you even get 3A albeit I don't know how the eggrider is determining that and suspect it may be less

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      #3
      So you`re saying that all is fine and I should assembly the rest to test it?

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        #4
        OK, will try that. If it will works that way it would be AWESOME! Will post results tommorow.

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          #5
          I'm just saying running it on a bench isn't going to draw hardly any current so looking at current while on the bench isn't a terribly useful test

          At the point you are at and before putting it back on the bike, I'd just make sure it turns the ring, the ring can freewheel when turned forward and the crank can freewheel when turned backwards (i.e. mechanical tests). If you can measure the ring RPM then see what it does when full throttle... But there's not much more you can do until you've got it loaded - i.e. on the bike turning the wheel, etc...

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            #6
            In past I had some experience with repairing phones and I`ve learn there that is good habit to check all before assembling the whole unit. Today I`ve learn from you that with electric bike motors it`s completly opposite :-)

            Tommorow will check all you`ve pointed and post results for others.

            You can`t imagine how happy I`m now. I really hope that is the case ... Thanks!

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              #7
              Originally posted by czacha414 View Post
              In past I had some experience with repairing phones and I`ve learn there that is good habit to check all before assembling the whole unit. Today I`ve learn from you that with electric bike motors it`s completly opposite :-)
              Not exactly

              You can check the mechanical - that it turns and the two clutches are working properly - checking the clutches is important since this is an area of common issues after reassembly during a lube

              You can also check that electrically it turns (like you have) and that's by far 90+% of the electrical battle following a lube

              You just can't tell how much power it will put out (and take in) until it has some load so unless you have some sort of bench dynamometer that will have to wait until it's on the bike


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                #8
                Today i`ve checked motor with chain on and voila - everything works like a charm! AZguy, you`re the man!

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                #9
                So now that it works do we get to see some pics of the bike?

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                  #10
                  There you go... Giant Trance 2 2017 with BBSHD 52V, stock controller, egg rider v2 lcd, battery 21Ah on Sanyo GA. At this moment I`m also installing Lekkie 40T chainring as my chain line is really messed up. As far it works great (except chain/gears).

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                    #11
                    In few days I`m also going to work on clean routing of cables etc and I`m about to install new throttle as it comes us that here, In Poland there is a small company which sells great throttles for ebike, surely much better than stock one. It have other connector but this could be worked out.

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                      #12
                      One thing I`m not sure of now are brakes. I have SLX basic mtb brakes and I really don`t want to go with these glued sensors - I`m looking at Magura MT5e or Tektro HD730 with built-in cut offs. As far I`ve found out Tektro at this moment are available only for front (they`re hard to find anywhere...)

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                        #13
                        Wow that battery looks like it was made to fit that frame. Too bad the rest of the frame design makes the motor hang down so low.

                        That throttle looks interesting. You will have to let us know how it works, just looking at the photo and imagining using it I don't think I would like it. I actually like the stock one over the 'advanced' bafang one. The advanced one is much better constructed but I didn't find it as comfortable to use. The stock one I think what I end up doing is pressing my thumb against the body to hold the lever in position rather than on the lever itself which can be harder to hold in position with vibrations.

                        On the brakes you can mount the magnets and sensors to the bottom of the lever so they barely show and are reasonably protected. I used hot glue for some extra strength.

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                        • czacha414
                          czacha414
                          Newbie
                          czacha414 commented
                          Editing a comment
                          It took me a while to figure which battery will fit my frame and it turns out that this one - Hailong Shark which could handle up to 91x 18650 would be the best choice. I`ve ended with 84x 18650 set as 14s6p - which gives me a little more power than 13s7p which also was in my considerations. I`ve used Grin battery mount (Triple Bob) which is brilliant - I didn`t had to make any additional holes in frame as I didnt want to and my battery mount is rock solid...

                          Will test the throttle and post few words about it after few days but at first I`m impressed.

                          Yes - the motor position is preety low and because of that I also had to change crank arms for shorter ones as few times i`ve hit them on concrete which might be dangerous. My stock crank arms were 17cm, now I have 2cm shorter - I`m about to test them.
                          czacha414
                          Newbie
                          Last edited by czacha414; 04-25-2021, 10:17 AM.

                        #14
                        The one way roller clutches are particular about lubrication. Less is more. They look like roller bearings but the lube requirements are very different.
                        They would prefer oil (ATF)l instead of grease, but light grease works. They need friction to operate, so no fancy PTFE , Silicone, or Moly additives. If you pack them too full of grease the rollers can't move freely to engage. About 40-50% full is about right.
                        Retrorockit
                        Giga Member
                        Last edited by Retrorockit; 04-25-2021, 07:15 AM.

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                          #15
                          Originally posted by Retrorockit View Post
                          The one way roller clutches are particular about lubrication. Less is more. They look like roller bearings but the lube requirements are very different.
                          They would prefer oil (ATF)l instead of grease, but light grease works. They need friction to operate, so no fancy PTFE , Silicone, or Moly additives. If you pack them too full of grease the rollers can't move freely to engage. About 40-50% full is about right.
                          Thanks for the point. To be honest - at first I`ve used a lot of grease and then lately I`ve realised it`s too much so now I have rather small or medium ammount compared to many youtubers. Didn`t know about the clutch - I`ve used there also Mobile 28 but very little so I think I`m good at this point.

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