Hello builders,
It is a balmy 10 degrees here in the Driftless region. Instead of puttering in the shop, I thought I would document some of my experiences mounting the Cyclone 3000.
For this build, we will assume that you have already removed the pedals, cranks, and bottom bracket.
We will do this build in three steps. First, we will look at the pieces included in the kit and figure out how they fit together. Second, we will measure our bottom bracket shell and set up the kit to match our bottom bracket shell width. Third, we will do a dry install to verify everything fits correctly.
In order to assemble the motor mounting we will need to find correct parts. The motor mount assembly consists of three main parts; the motor, drive side motor mount plate, and left side motor mount plate. There are two threaded shafts, four bolts and several spacers included with the kit.
Bare Motor.
Motor Mount Pieces.
The drive side motor plate is 5mm thick. The left side plate is 3mm thick.
Motor Mount Assembled.
Next, we will select the parts for the bottom bracket and assemble them outside the bike to see how they fit together. There are four key parts for the bottom bracket assembly: the bottom bracket cartridge with spindle, the flange washer, the support cup, and the locking ring. The cartridge goes on the drive side and the support cup goes on the left side.
Bottom Bracket Pieces.
Bottom Bracket Assembled.
The drive side mounting plate is held in position between the flange on the bottom bracket cartridge and the bottom bracket shell. The left side motor mount is held in position between the bottom bracket shell and the locking ring which threads onto the support cup.
Assembled Motor Mount.
Once we have figured out how the various parts go together, we need to adjust things to fit the width of the bottom bracket on our bike. First measure the bottom bracket shell. There are a couple of standard sized. 68mm, 70mm, and 73mm for road bikes. Fat tire bides go as wide as 110mm.
(Sorry, the display on the digital calipers is not showing up in photos)
Our goal to adjust the spacing on both the motor end and bottom bracket end so that the motor mount plates are parallel.
With the above setup I was able to get 73mm inside the motor mount plates.
Next, we need to set up bottom bracket to fit the width of our shell. Our example bike has a 73mm bottom bracket shell.
With the inside of the motor mounts 73mm apart, the bearing on the left hand end of the cartridge is not seated fully in the supported cup.
To get the correct width for the bottom bracket we need take into consideration 5mm for the drive side plate, 3mm for the left side plate, and 3mm for the locking ring. That results in an effective width of 84mm.
We want to make sure that the bearing seat far enough into the support cup to provide good support while making sure enough threads of the support cup thread are exposed to ensure a secure fit.
In this install, I needed another 10mm of length on the cartridge.
Adding a second 6002 bearing did the trick.
With everything set up the dry fit on the bike should go smoothly.
You don’t want to add the Loctite yet because you may need to do some addition adjustment with your spacers to get the chain to align correctly.
A couple of photos after installation
Drive side
Left Side
Below
Another Angle
Hope that helps. If It is useful I can try to document other aspects of the build.
See our video guide here:
It is a balmy 10 degrees here in the Driftless region. Instead of puttering in the shop, I thought I would document some of my experiences mounting the Cyclone 3000.
For this build, we will assume that you have already removed the pedals, cranks, and bottom bracket.
We will do this build in three steps. First, we will look at the pieces included in the kit and figure out how they fit together. Second, we will measure our bottom bracket shell and set up the kit to match our bottom bracket shell width. Third, we will do a dry install to verify everything fits correctly.
In order to assemble the motor mounting we will need to find correct parts. The motor mount assembly consists of three main parts; the motor, drive side motor mount plate, and left side motor mount plate. There are two threaded shafts, four bolts and several spacers included with the kit.
Bare Motor.
Motor Mount Pieces.
The drive side motor plate is 5mm thick. The left side plate is 3mm thick.
Motor Mount Assembled.
Next, we will select the parts for the bottom bracket and assemble them outside the bike to see how they fit together. There are four key parts for the bottom bracket assembly: the bottom bracket cartridge with spindle, the flange washer, the support cup, and the locking ring. The cartridge goes on the drive side and the support cup goes on the left side.
Bottom Bracket Pieces.
Bottom Bracket Assembled.
The drive side mounting plate is held in position between the flange on the bottom bracket cartridge and the bottom bracket shell. The left side motor mount is held in position between the bottom bracket shell and the locking ring which threads onto the support cup.
Assembled Motor Mount.
Once we have figured out how the various parts go together, we need to adjust things to fit the width of the bottom bracket on our bike. First measure the bottom bracket shell. There are a couple of standard sized. 68mm, 70mm, and 73mm for road bikes. Fat tire bides go as wide as 110mm.
(Sorry, the display on the digital calipers is not showing up in photos)
Our goal to adjust the spacing on both the motor end and bottom bracket end so that the motor mount plates are parallel.
With the above setup I was able to get 73mm inside the motor mount plates.
Next, we need to set up bottom bracket to fit the width of our shell. Our example bike has a 73mm bottom bracket shell.
With the inside of the motor mounts 73mm apart, the bearing on the left hand end of the cartridge is not seated fully in the supported cup.
To get the correct width for the bottom bracket we need take into consideration 5mm for the drive side plate, 3mm for the left side plate, and 3mm for the locking ring. That results in an effective width of 84mm.
We want to make sure that the bearing seat far enough into the support cup to provide good support while making sure enough threads of the support cup thread are exposed to ensure a secure fit.
In this install, I needed another 10mm of length on the cartridge.
Adding a second 6002 bearing did the trick.
With everything set up the dry fit on the bike should go smoothly.
You don’t want to add the Loctite yet because you may need to do some addition adjustment with your spacers to get the chain to align correctly.
A couple of photos after installation
Drive side
Left Side
Below
Another Angle
Hope that helps. If It is useful I can try to document other aspects of the build.
See our video guide here:
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