HowTo - Cyclone Motor Mounting with Pictures

[Eastcreek]

Has anyone here taken the sprocket off the end of the Cyclone motor? My chain is a tad too short to get it over the sprocket teeth. I am hoping there is an easy way to accomplish that without removal from the bike. Thanks

[jawnn]

YES, but you nay need a spacer or two on the right side to make the fit copacetic.

[jawnn]

I found this easy to build bracket by DingusMcGee on Endless-sphere:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=69867&start=900

[jawnn]

My kit is missing a lot of parts, it must be an older version. I am glad to have found these photos, I see I will need longer 6mm bolts unless the old 70mm bolts work. With the thickness of the thick bracket plate. I suppose they could not find any 75-80mm long bolts. How much would the new mounting bracket parts cost me?

I figured out that I had to use two of the lock rings actually locked together to turn the extension in as far as it would go. Having only one Collet Chuck Spanner Wrench I had to use adjustable pliers to hold the other ring.

Then I held the left side bracket in place to see where it needed to be to be to hold the brackets 205.25mm apart more with the spacer bushings. And discovered that I will need to re-bend the left side bracket [just hammer it a little flatter, until it sticks out as far as the crank side] because It cannot hold the motor square to the BB [crank-spindle] shell.

The only thing to hold the extra bearing inside the threaded extension is the pedal on the end of the shaft.

Then I noticed a couple of bolt holes on the motor that are not square to each other. What are they for?

I tryed hammering the left side bracket out but ended up with the bracket at the outside end of the extension still not long enough. So the only option is to rent a machine shop and build my own mounting system, or to grind off some of the right side bracket and hope it fits. So I must pay more money; $130usd for the newest stainless steel mounting “system” that looks like it will let the motor wobble a tiny bit if I can't get the bolts tight enough.

oh drats! they are out of the bracket system. so I have to build my own. and show pictures here.

https://lunacycle.com/luna-cyclone-3...unting-system/

[CampCo0p]

Will all the extra length of the bottom bracket be towards the non-drive side?

[funwithbikes]

Please feel free to edit any of my posts for readability.... I am dyslexic some some of my wording can come out pretty mangled :(

[ykick]

Thanks for contributing this!

[funwithbikes]

Hello builders,

It is a balmy 10 degrees here in the Driftless region. Instead of puttering in the shop, I thought I would document some of my experiences mounting the Cyclone 3000.

For this build, we will assume that you have already removed the pedals, cranks, and bottom bracket.

We will do this build in three steps. First, we will look at the pieces included in the kit and figure out how they fit together. Second, we will measure our bottom bracket shell and set up the kit to match our bottom bracket shell width. Third, we will do a dry install to verify everything fits correctly.

In order to assemble the motor mounting we will need to find correct parts. The motor mount assembly consists of three main parts; the motor, drive side motor mount plate, and left side motor mount plate. There are two threaded shafts, four bolts and several spacers included with the kit.

Bare Motor.

Motor Mount Pieces.

The drive side motor plate is 5mm thick. The left side plate is 3mm thick.

Motor Mount Assembled.

Next, we will select the parts for the bottom bracket and assemble them outside the bike to see how they fit together. There are four key parts for the bottom bracket assembly: the bottom bracket cartridge with spindle, the flange washer, the support cup, and the locking ring. The cartridge goes on the drive side and the support cup goes on the left side.


Bottom Bracket Pieces.


Bottom Bracket Assembled.

The drive side mounting plate is held in position between the flange on the bottom bracket cartridge and the bottom bracket shell. The left side motor mount is held in position between the bottom bracket shell and the locking ring which threads onto the support cup.


Assembled Motor Mount.

Once we have figured out how the various parts go together, we need to adjust things to fit the width of the bottom bracket on our bike. First measure the bottom bracket shell. There are a couple of standard sized. 68mm, 70mm, and 73mm for road bikes. Fat tire bides go as wide as 110mm.


(Sorry, the display on the digital calipers is not showing up in photos)

Our goal to adjust the spacing on both the motor end and bottom bracket end so that the motor mount plates are parallel.


With the above setup I was able to get 73mm inside the motor mount plates.

Next, we need to set up bottom bracket to fit the width of our shell. Our example bike has a 73mm bottom bracket shell.


With the inside of the motor mounts 73mm apart, the bearing on the left hand end of the cartridge is not seated fully in the supported cup.

To get the correct width for the bottom bracket we need take into consideration 5mm for the drive side plate, 3mm for the left side plate, and 3mm for the locking ring. That results in an effective width of 84mm.

We want to make sure that the bearing seat far enough into the support cup to provide good support while making sure enough threads of the support cup thread are exposed to ensure a secure fit.


In this install, I needed another 10mm of length on the cartridge.


Adding a second 6002 bearing did the trick.


With everything set up the dry fit on the bike should go smoothly.

You don’t want to add the Loctite yet because you may need to do some addition adjustment with your spacers to get the chain to align correctly.

A couple of photos after installation


Drive side


Left Side


Below


Another Angle

Hope that helps. If It is useful I can try to document other aspects of the build.

See our video guide here: