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HowTo - Basic Cyclone Wiring with Pictures

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    HowTo - Basic Cyclone Wiring with Pictures

    The rats nest of wires in an ebike can be a bit daunting until you figure out that you only need a few of them to get started. The extra wires are for additional functionality that you may not need. Getting started only requires 5 connections.

    1. Battery to controller - main current. These are the thick wires that carry the current from the battery to the controller. Two wires: red and black.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	1. Main DC Current.jpg Views:	1 Size:	657.6 KB ID:	27212


    2. Controller to motor - phase wires. These are the thick wires that carry the phase current from the controller to the motor. Three wires: blue, green, and yellow.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	2. Phase Wires.jpg Views:	1 Size:	694.8 KB ID:	27213


    3. Motor to Controller - hall sensors. These are the thin wires which enable the controller to know the position of the motor. Four wires: yellow, blue, green, and red
    Click image for larger version  Name:	3. Hall sensors.jpg Views:	1 Size:	578.2 KB ID:	27214

    This connector is a bit confusing because there are four wires on the motor side and six wires on the controller side. We will see one of the red wires on the controller side in step 5.

    4. Throttle to Controller. These are the control wires which carry the throttle signal to the controller. Three wires: red, green, and black.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	4. Throttle.jpg Views:	1 Size:	488.6 KB ID:	27215

    5. On/Off Switch. These are the control wires which disable the controller if the switch is turned off. Two wires: yellow and blue. Click image for larger version  Name:	5. On - Off switch.jpg Views:	1 Size:	629.2 KB ID:	27216

    This is where we use the extra red wire that came out of the controller side of the hall sensor. The second red wire goes to the single wire connector on the battery harness.

    That should be enough to get a new build running with speed control.

    #2
    Good post. Thanks for sharing. The on-off wire needs to be unplugged for the motor to run as well.

    Comment


      #3
      I have a cyclone with the 60amp controller and I have begun the process of getting rid of many of the wires that I will not be using. Does anyone have a source where I could purchase some nice stealth looking quality male female plugs / connectors and get rid of the crappy cyclone ones

      Comment


        #4
        I replace all my controller to battery connectors with XT-90 anti-spark connectors from hobbyking
        I also replace all of my phase wire connectors with 5.5mm bullet connector from hobbyking.

        Sorry, I don't have a reliable inexpensive source. I got a pair of XT-90s from ebay that was counterfeit. The anti-spark resistor stopped working after less than 10 insertions.

        I just desolder all the unused connectors inside the controller. If you prefer you can open up the controller and cut the unused wires an inch or so long and put a short pieces of heatshrink over the remaining wire to make sure they don't short anything after you put the case back together.

        Please let us know how you like your 60Amp controller. All of the FETs are bolted to a heatsink which is screwed to the side of the controller's aluminum housing. You can identify which side by the row of machine screws. If you think about it, just reach down and touch the outside of the controler to see how hot it is after hard climbs. Warm to the touch is OK. Hot enough that you pull your hand away means you will need to increase airflow past the controller housing.

        Comment


          #5
          I have XT 90 and XT 60 connectors in my electrical box. I also have a loose bullet connectors. How do you insulate the bullet connectors? would you use them side-by-side with a plastic housing or just individually.

          as far as the upgraded 60 I'm controller - I put on a voltage meter and a load in the most I could get was 40 A. I've heard this from some other people who have both the same controller. Luna cycle is currently out of stock so I ordered one directly from cyclone for a customer so I will see how it compares with my current one.

          last week I opeedn my controller with zero experience and I snipped or cut the wires and replaced it on the bike and everything worked fine.

          it does have the Bluetooth connection but any setting changes are very subtle if any at all.

          Comment


            #6
            SDharlie have you ever tried to use the 40 amp cyclone controller on a 1000 watt rear hub motor? If so could you PM me and maybe help a fellow fast e-biker out?

            Comment


              #7
              I have XT 90 and XT 60 connectors in my electrical box. I also have a loose bullet connectors. How do you insulate the bullet connectors? would you use them side-by-side with a plastic housing or just individually.

              As far as the upgraded 60A controller - I put on a voltage meter and under load in the most I could get was 40 A. I've heard this from some other people who have the same controller. Luna cycle is currently out of stock so I ordered one directly from cyclone for a customer so I will see how it compares with my current one.

              Last week I opened my controller with zero experience and I snipped or cut the wires and replaced it on the bike and everything worked fine.

              It does have the Bluetooth connection but any setting changes are very subtle if any at all.

              Comment


                #8
                I think the size of the XT 60 is better for a stock Cyclone or bbsxx but I couldn't find any with anti-spark... and that is a dealbreaker for me.

                I do something similar to what spinningmagnets does at https://www.electricbike.com/connect...hrottle-motor/ I stagger the bullet connector by about an inch and the put a 2nd piece of heat shrink around the bundle.

                Yes, some of the 60 Amp controllers need to be modified by reducing the resistance of the shunt resistor. You can do that by adding a couple of blobs of solder to the shunt resistor. If you would like, I can do a short how-to on that topic.

                Comment


                • SDharlie
                  SDharlie commented
                  Editing a comment
                  YES PLEASE I'd love to see that.

                #9
                Which wires would be best to use for the brake cut off sensors

                Comment

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