NOTE: Sorry if this is common knowledge. The images in the sticky thread at https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...rease-rigidity seem to be borked:( So I started this exercise from scratch :)
Yesterday, I was able to spend a day with my Uncle a former machinist and teacher. Over the course of the afternoon, we started looking at inexpensive ways a garage builder could make the Cyclone motor mount more rigid without any special tools.
The photo below shows the stock setup of a Cyclone motor mount. The red arrow indicates the direction of force the system experiences when the rotating motor pulls the chain against the chain ring.

This results in the drive side mount being placed under compression while the aluminum mount block and left plate are place in tension as shown in the green arrows below.

The entire load is carried by the 6mm screws which go through the spacers, mounting plates, and motor hinge. The screws turn into threaded rod in the center of the assemble. Under load the bolts, spacers, and threaded rod tend to bow forward as shown below.

The bowing causes the motor to rotate a few degrees in the clockwise direction.
A solution we came up with required $2.75 in supplies from the local tractor supply store.
2 - 6mm x 50mm screws
2 - 1 in. by 3/8 in. spacers
4 – ¼ in. washers
2 - mounting plates

The mounting plates were cut from a 30mm wide piece of scrap. They have two holes drilled in them. Sorry the fabrication is so ugly. By our restriction we could only use tools a garage builder would have. We were limited to a hack saw, hand drill, file and vise grips. (It was surprising how hard it was to get the hole to starte in the correct place without a punch.)


By eye-balling the motor's movement while accelerating up a steep hill, this mod seems to reduce the flex by about 75%
I have an order in at Mc-Master Carr for a 12 in. length of hollow tube with an 0.5 in. O.D and 0.25 in. I.D. I am still looking a nice counter sunk bolt to run the entire length of the assembly. A little neater job on the brackets and this could be a reasonable improve that someone can make at home… which doesn’t look like a kludge.
Hope this gets other people's synapses firing. It might be a bit labor intensive for a shop or vendor like Luna.
However, an entrepreneurial student could churn out an after-market kit from their dorm room for less than $2.00 in materials and sell them for $10.00 + shipping. They wouldn’t be able to retire from their earning.… The initiative and experience would make them stand out from their peer at their next interview.
Yesterday, I was able to spend a day with my Uncle a former machinist and teacher. Over the course of the afternoon, we started looking at inexpensive ways a garage builder could make the Cyclone motor mount more rigid without any special tools.
The photo below shows the stock setup of a Cyclone motor mount. The red arrow indicates the direction of force the system experiences when the rotating motor pulls the chain against the chain ring.
This results in the drive side mount being placed under compression while the aluminum mount block and left plate are place in tension as shown in the green arrows below.
The entire load is carried by the 6mm screws which go through the spacers, mounting plates, and motor hinge. The screws turn into threaded rod in the center of the assemble. Under load the bolts, spacers, and threaded rod tend to bow forward as shown below.
The bowing causes the motor to rotate a few degrees in the clockwise direction.
A solution we came up with required $2.75 in supplies from the local tractor supply store.
2 - 6mm x 50mm screws
2 - 1 in. by 3/8 in. spacers
4 – ¼ in. washers
2 - mounting plates
The mounting plates were cut from a 30mm wide piece of scrap. They have two holes drilled in them. Sorry the fabrication is so ugly. By our restriction we could only use tools a garage builder would have. We were limited to a hack saw, hand drill, file and vise grips. (It was surprising how hard it was to get the hole to starte in the correct place without a punch.)
By eye-balling the motor's movement while accelerating up a steep hill, this mod seems to reduce the flex by about 75%
I have an order in at Mc-Master Carr for a 12 in. length of hollow tube with an 0.5 in. O.D and 0.25 in. I.D. I am still looking a nice counter sunk bolt to run the entire length of the assembly. A little neater job on the brackets and this could be a reasonable improve that someone can make at home… which doesn’t look like a kludge.
Hope this gets other people's synapses firing. It might be a bit labor intensive for a shop or vendor like Luna.
However, an entrepreneurial student could churn out an after-market kit from their dorm room for less than $2.00 in materials and sell them for $10.00 + shipping. They wouldn’t be able to retire from their earning.… The initiative and experience would make them stand out from their peer at their next interview.
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