Oh I wish I would'a....mini cyclone woes

[CampCo0p]

I can't stand beginning a statement with those words. I just wish I woulda stuck with the 3k on my latest build. The whole experience. Either this thing is just a littLe POS or I am wrestleing with a turd unit. Just goes clunk, clunk, clunk.... weeeeee... clunk clunk. I can get it to go for a bit if I am ever so light as a feather on the throttle. On the bench the bastred screams like a bansheee. Under my 190 lbs of chiseled cellulite it choaks. Is this lunatic chaining to tall???? WTHeck... should I mount in the triangle? I'm guessing It would make a super sweet long board motor ... but common this is a soul stomper...
when I 1st got this motor from Luna I was miffed to open the box and find stripped out bolts where an impact was used all cockeyed. The guys at Luna were awesome and gave me some options. I chose to deal with it and ponied up a little extra cheese to get the Luna landers for my fat commuter.... (the forks are so amazing!!! ) but now I wonder if this motor was torqued in the biblical sense. Now I wI'll try to post some pictures. Of my beautiful shinny turd.

[CampCo0p]

Pics of the chainline... titties and beer... all things good!

[moarpower]

The cyclone is not something I have first hand experience with but here goes nothing...

If you think the bolts are overtorqued, does backing off them out a quarter turn help?

Does the motor actually make clunking noises with you on it?

Is your chain binding up anywhere on the cogs with you on it? It might be binding up somewhere with the additional load of you on it. I've had this issue with several pedal bikes in the past where the chain was just slack enough to cause problems.

Hope this helps! Sorry to hear of the troubles though...

[CampCo0p]

Thanks for your ideas moarpower. Not sure which bolt you are referring to. The chain has nice free movement and the bike rides and pedals good. Goes through the 3 gears of the Sturmy Archer nice and smooth. When I apply and throttle the motor actually does more like a shutter, or high speed clunking. The more throttle the faster the clunking.

[moarpower]

Can you ensure that all the phase wires are hooked up properly? Same goes for the hall connections. I don't know exactly what sort of connectors this kit uses but some wires/pins in the hall sensor setup may have come loose during shipping.

A motor will stutter if the phase and/or hall wires are not properly connected or are mismatches. Same goes for having a bad hall sensor. It may appear to run fine with no load but be drawing a large amount of amps. Do you have a power meter / watt meter that you can plug in to monitor it's no load power useage? That is the easiest way to ascertain if it has issues with the phase connections or hall sensors/connections.

Nevermind the bolts thing, I misread your first post.

[CampCo0p]

I do hAve a multimeter. Can you point me to a thread that explains the process? Thanks much

[moarpower]

I tried looking on the Luna site to get a better idea of where things are located on the Mini Cyclone. It appears that the connectors are tucked up nice and neatly so it may be difficult to probe.

The hall sensor wires are a small set of five (maybe six) wires run to a connector. They are usually blue, green, yellow, red, and black. Some kits also have a white wire.

Here is an explanation on hall sensor testing: https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/Hall...stingFinal.pdf

Please let me know if anything in that PDF is not clear. Be very careful when testing hall sensors. If you short out the meter probes or hall wires you can kill the hall sensors.

Start slow by making sure that all of the hall sensor pins are properly seated in the connectors on both the motor and the controller side. They should not pull out with a gentle tug and should all be equally far into their respective connectors.

Using a watt meter in between the motor and battery will let you know if you are drawing excess current which makes this less of a guessing game. Your multimeter will not be able to do that for you. Here is an example of what you'd need: https://lunacycle.com/batteries/char...battery-gauge/

Your motor should only draw a few amps (<10A) when spinning at full speed in the air. If it is drawing a lot of current (>10A) then you have an issue with the hall wiring and/or phase wiring.

There are many combinations of hall and phase wires and several documents available online to help narrow down it down to the correct combination if that the issue. I can provide a link to some if you'd like but there is no sense in jumping to conclusions yet.

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...ottle-on-bench sounds like it references a similar issue.

[CampCo0p]

Thanks much moarpower!

[CampCo0p]

Well, interesting results. Not much A not quite 3A. All my hall senses measured from -.2V up to 11.33 Volts.

[moarpower]

Hmm, no excess current is a good sign (sort of). Maybe it has a timing issue? Electric motors can have advanced or retarded timing much like an engine can. One is good for low end torque and one is good for top end speed. Too much in either direction can be a bad thing. (I'm kinda swingin' wild for ideas at this point.)

To be clear though:

If you leave your red probe in the red wire OR your black probe in the black wire within the hall sensor plug and then rotate the motor manually by hand the following should happen during rotation:

1) With the other probe on yellow it should jump between ~0 and ~5V
2) With the other probe on green it should jump between ~0 and ~5V
3) With the other probe on blue it should jump between ~0 and ~5V

If any of them stays at a constant voltage then it may be the culprit. Is that the case?

If not, I am afraid I've run out of suggestions. Have you tried messaging the folks at Luna support yet? support@lunacycle.com

[CampCo0p]

Noticed this today when in desperation was going to attempt relocation to inside triangle. The bare wires seem to have obvious connection to any of the pins in the harness after checking continueity

[CampCo0p]

NO* obvious connection

[moarpower]

Hopefully those strands are just extra shielding from the cable. Shielding (if grounded) helps keep noise and interference out of low level signals like the RCA cables on your home stereo. It isn't really necessary for anything on an e-bike.

Still, I hope the folks at Luna help you out. I am all out of troubleshooting ideas. :/

[CampCo0p]

thank you moarpower.

[Sebz]

Hi,

Ok maybe a video could help us a bit? Clunk cluck cluck is very vague...

Also when the bike is on the stand, it screams and runs perfectly.. it's maybe something in the drive line? chain, rings or the IGH? First to is to eliminate the possible issues.

If the motor runs good on the table I would not think it's the wiring (hall sensors or phase wires).

First I would inspect the chain and and all the teeth, so be sure they are all perfect. Maybe under load the chain wants to jump a tooth.

The IGH can cluck too, so maybe try it in the 1:1 gear (I think it's the 2nd one) and run it without much load on it.... see if the clucking is related to the power or load you apply to it. The thin line looks ok but not perfect.

I also do not see if you have a rear chain tensioner... it's a must have on a IGH with the mid drive.

Waiting to see a video of the issue.

[CampCo0p]

https://youtu.be/vQVBC0Ecc_0