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Deluxe Mini Cyclone Install Step By Step w/pics

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    Deluxe Mini Cyclone Install Step By Step w/pics

    I'll go step by step. I am just going to detail a basic first time installation with a throttle. When I get things a little further, tidy up the wiring and get a for reals battery on it (right now I am stealing one from another bike) I'll follow up with more info, but what you see here will take your Deluxe Mini Cyclone kit from stuff in a box to a working installation.

    First: Lay everything out
    • I have already taken the included power cable and connected an XT90 pigtail to the other end.
    • I am using a half-link chain for the drive
    • The battery meter is for diagnostic/FYI info. Optional.
    • I have already attached a pair of old pedals to the crankarms
    • The tools shown are not everything you will need, but they are close. Add to this a couple different sizes of hex keys and a big crescent wrench. Mine is 12". A Park bottom bracket tool is sitting next to the bottom bracket top left. The little rings are 0.3mm and 2mm BB spacers.
    • See that little orange hammer? Thats a 12 oz dead blow hammer.
    • Those really big zip ties at right are 22", rated to 250 lbs and 185 degrees. Biggest, baddest ones sold on Amazon.
    • The battery at top right is a pair of Mighty Mini Cube 30Q's connected in parallel. It is just a temp for today's install and maiden voyage.

    The donor bike is a 2005 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR with custom Alexrims DM24 wheels built with Sapim Strong ebike spokes. Tires are 26x2.4 CST Cyclops.

    First thing to do is connect the throttle, motor and battery together and do a static function test. If you can connect this stuff up, turn on the throttle, depress the throttle lever and the motor runs, you are good to proceed. Connections are easy to make: Every bit has a different connector and they are not interchangeable. So just look for something that fits your connector and connect it... You can't screw it up so long as you aren't stupid and pay attention.

    Next move is to figure out how to fit the motor onto the bike. I wanted to fit it inside the triangle, but the arms are just a little too short. So I have to put it under and in front of the bottom bracket outside the triangle. Working that, I discovered I had to remove the plastic cover because it interferes with this shifter cable, and there's no easy way around that. Reluctantly I have to remove the plastic motor cover. I'll figure out how to cut it down to size and use some of it - the forward portion - later on.

    With the plastic cover removed, its time to remove the two aluminum spacers inside. Luna says these are there for shipping only. You may be tempted to leave them on for increased rigidity. If you do, your motor mounting arms are only good for one width and your bottom bracket had better be exactly that width (I ordered a 68-72mm kit). Since mine (and yours) isn't they come off. For one of the bolts, your life will be much easier if you have a short-arm metric hex key set.

    With the spacers removed, the only thing holding on the left side mounting bracket is a friction fit to the motor. It can be moved at this point, albeit with difficulty (which is a good thing). Here is where the little dead blow hammer comes into use. Luna fits the Cyclone with spacers that are roughly equivalent to a 68mm bottom bracket. Roughly. They were a few mm wider than mine.

    A few taps with the dead blow hammer around the motor mounting bracket and then test fit to the bicycle bottom bracket. Rinse and repeat until the fit is snug. Once it is, hold the motor in place and screw in the bottom bracket. It won't be tight onto the bike yet. Here it is hanging after screwing in the right side cup.

    On the right side, there's nothing holding the motor in place. Note the second bottom bracket bearing is needed on the spindle to fill out the inside of the bottom bracket up to the motor mount.

    I'm about to screw on the right side bottom bracket cup and lock ring. Note I have added a 0.3mm bottom bracket spacer which will act as a very thin washer between the alloy motor mount and the steel lock ring. You want the steel lock ring to be threaded a few turn down on the bottom bracket cup. When the BB cup gets tightened, the lock ring will grab the alloy motor mount and stop spinning, so there need to be some threads there to keep it threaded on and fully engaged to the cup after tightening.

    When the bottom bracket cup feels like its getting tight, the motor will start clamping to the bike. Before it becomes a solid fit switch to the lock ring spanner and tighten the lock ring - this will give you back some of the extra thread engagement you had originally. When the fit becomes tight enough, grab the motor and rotate it up into its final place. You may need to tighten the cup and the lock ring alternately to make this happen.

    Tighten the bottom bracket cup until the lock ring just barely has full thread engagement. Then give the lock ring a bit of a tightening as well. Shift to the drive side and tighten it down as well. Then shift back to the other side and give both the lock ring and the cup a final tightening. It should be *tight*.
    Motor attachment is almost done. It only needs the hose clamp and monster zip tie to make sure it stays in position.

    My motor sits away from the frame neatly held off by a water bottle socket cap.

    Now its time to put the crankarms on. In my case I already sized my chain so it was ready to go. I just held the dérailleur cage forward to slacken the chain (a zip tie makes a good third hand to hold it up), wrapped it over the front chainring, applied some anti-seize to the crankarm bolt, attached the crankarm and tightened. You are attaching the normal chain - not the motor chain - to the inner chainring.

    With the bicycle chain attached and the crankarms on, its time to attach the Cyclone's motor chain. Remove the chain cover and loosen the chain tensioner wheel. The tensioner has two screws on its shaft collar. Loosen them so the little wheel drops down. Pay attention to where they were located (i.e. 'clock' them) for when its time to reposition them.

    Attach the motor chain to the outer chainring and the Cyclone axle/freewheel. If you want to use a quick link on your chain have at it but I personally doubt it has a prayer of holding. I could be wrong. I used a chainbreaker to reattach the chain I pre-sized before the install. To size the chain, Make it as tight as you can and then add a half link. Or if its already a little loose, don't add that half link. You want just a little slack for the wheel to take up, not a bunch. Once the chain is reassembled, take a 13mm wrench and use it as in the pic to tension/reposition the little chainwheel.

    Be careful to line up the wheel with the chainline. When tightening the set screws, its important not to overdo the tension you apply with the wrench - don't turn it too far so you make the chain guitar-string tight. Note the wrench position in the pic below. If your hex wrench is about like this you've got the tension about right. You may have to tighten, then run the chain and see how it behaves. If it sticks or jumps you will need to keep tweaking the tension and the horizontal alignment until it spins smoothly. Don't stop until it does.

    Reattach the chain and axle covers Note in this pic I used my own bolts and brass lock and flat washers... cuz they were purdy. I found out real fast that they were too tall and the crankarm hit them. I put the Luna-supplied very low-profile cover screws back on after my first test ride.

    The Mini Cyclone motor is now mechanically installed to the bicycle. Whats left? Lets show the zip tie and hose clamp.

    This picture was taken after I had run the bike for its maiden voyage of several miles. You do this to keep the motor from rotating downwards away from the frame as a result of the torque it generates. You make the bottom bracket really tight but you can't make it tight enough to stop it from rotating without this extra support. Note Luna's zip ties are big and will work fine, but I had a bigger one and used it. Also this zip tie's placement was provisional and I'll do it over to pretty it up. The cut end looks a little ragged as I took a file to it to smooth the sharp cut edges. Lastly I need to source a smaller hose clamp so I don't have to do the kludge I did with mastik tape to hide the folded over excess.

    Next, there's the controller connection and managing the rats nest. This will be different for every bike. For mine, I first wanted to put it on the front of the motor,'s forward edge. Sideways with the wires coming out to the left side (exactly like Luna's carbon fiber bike pic on the web site). Lots of experimentation made me abandon this idea. I tried to route the wires back and down thru the water bottle cage (using an empty bottle storage container to route the wires thru and hide them in a fake water bottle) and could not make this work to my satisfaction.

    Instead I planted the controller under the bike, and carefully coiled and tucked the wires up underneath (above) it. Note the controller fits exactly in between the mounting brackets inside the channel that originally held the black plastic cover. I filed and beveled the controller base a little to get a smooth, exact fit.

    Which I promptly spoiled with those stupid zip ties. I'll do something less hokey when Luna delivers my left-hand throttle and I get my battery, at which point I can finalize all my routing. This was good enough to start with.
    Last edited by MoneyPit; 10-07-2017, 08:30 AM.

    Nice build thanks for posting


      Thanks for posting, I'm debating whether to get one of these and if the price tag is worth it. It sure looks good!


        BBT-32 and HCW-5 are the Park Tools used for bottom bracket installation.