(old) Motor mount modifications to increase rigidity.

[gman1971]

This thread has been moved here:

http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/kits/cyclone-mid-drives/11331-cyclone-3000w-motor-mount-modifications-increase-rigidity

[Sebz]

Very nice.... If it was from factory like this they would sale a lot more!

[gman1971]

I know, I think the washer mod or some sort of similar thing should come with the kit, but hey; maybe Luna can step up to the plate and do it.

G.

[Sebz]

They would sale like hot cakes!

[gman1971]

I talked with Paco @ Cyclone and their thinking is to cheap out as much as possible, anything CNC or the like will probably add 100 bucks more onto the kit, which I was telling him that maybe fine, considering what this kit can offer, a mount like the 100 buck mod would be something really nice. They are probably maximizing the profit margin as much as they can... wait, isn't that the point of a business? :D

G.

[Eric Luna]

These ideas are so good that i am going to stock up on washers and provide with the base kit.

Also maybe even a small tube of red locktite and some assembly instructions.

Thanks so much Gman...your ideas and these drawings are invaluable to new cyclone users.

[gman1971]

Thank you Eric, I am hoping we can rid the world of cars one drawing at a time... :D LOL...

G.

[Christian Livingstone]

Cool stuff, Gman.

Maybe there's be a way to include some medium-duty turnbuckle-tierods, to somehow change the radius length and act as a chain tensioner, so that the chain idler can be ditched.

[gman1971]

Thanks Christian, maybe I am not seeing the solution with these tie rods? but I don't think the radius can be changed as the entire motor assembly pivots around the BB, so it doesn't matter where you rotate it, the distance between BB axle center-line and the motor center-line will always the same, so the chain will always be the same length; and I am already using a half link on the chain too. I think that in order to lose the tensioner you would need new motor plates that would, somehow, be adjustable.

G.

[Christian Livingstone]

Yeah, that's why I got my Cyclone motor off the bottom bracket mounting. And I understand why people would be hesitant to do that. But your square tube would be somewhat ideal for a custom 4-point mount, since it is inherently square, with two points being adjustable turnbuckles and lock nuts. I'd probably just drill two holes through the square tube and weld two small, round tube stock pieces that bolts fit snuggly through, yet allowed pivoting.

But you've already got a good thing going, so maybe I'm just thinking out loud. And there might be some new meds for that kind of thing... Ha, ha, ha...

Thanks Christian, maybe I am not seeing the solution with these tie rods? but I don't think the radius can be changed as the entire motor assembly pivots around the BB, so it doesn't matter where you rotate it, the distance between BB axle center-line and the motor center-line will always the same, so the chain will always be the same length; and I am already using a half link on the chain too. I think that in order to lose the tensioner you would need new motor plates that would, somehow, be adjustable.

G.

[gman1971]

hahaha, no man, I wish I could weld stuff like you do... drawing is one thing, but when it comes down to fabricating and welding large stuff I am a sucker...

G.

[JPLabs]

Nice contribution, Gman!

[RageNR]

I am fairly new here. My first post. Hello to everyone. :)

I'm interested in buying the Cyclone kit but I have a few questions. I can be a bit long winded (I like details, ok?), but I will try to keep this short and on topic.


What I see in this thread is that the Cyclone does not come with a very secure mounting system, hence the mods needed to shore up the rigidity.
That is fine. I can handle making an adapter and/or plate if needed.
What I would like to know is, are there other ways to mount this motor? The setup I have in mind is to mount the motor above the crank, inside the triangle.

Clearance issues and weight distribution are obvious concerns depending on your frame. Besides that, is there any other reason(s) that this can not be done?
I might be able to fit the motor and a triangle batt pack in the frame space I have. My bike frame is a 16in, so it is already lower to the ground than most. I don't think having the motor above the crank will prove much on an issue with weight placement. I might even go no batt on the frame and ride it with a backpack setup.
Anyone have thoughts or input?

[gman1971]

The stock mounting solution is decent for smooth riding; but if you want to be certain it isn't going to bend then any of those mods will help quite a bit.

As for mounting, yes, it can be done with the standard BB bracket mount, well, provided there is room within the triangle. Christian Livingstone, another member in this forum, has built a custom mount with welded supports for the motor, its worth a look at his trike build thread.

I would expect that few inches up or down are going to make a huge difference in terms of handling, vs say, adding a 20 lbs hub motor to one of the wheels... so...

G.

[RageNR]

Thanks for the input gman.
To be honest, the bike handles funny already due to the way it was built. Steering seems very short and abrupt.
Only way to answer the weight handling characteristics is to get the motor in my hands and try it out from both positions.

I did just pick up the bike hours ago, just before the sun went down. Rode if for about 30mins when I got home. Was dark so I could not really tell if there were adjustments out on the bike.

I like the plate mod more than the washer mod. Is there a reason for using a stack of washers vs a small section of pipe, or even a bolt spacer?