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Cyclone 3000w with a front load cargo trike

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    Cyclone 3000w with a front load cargo trike

    Ok so I'm a conversion noob, I wanna pair the cyclone 3000w with a front loading cargo trike and 52v 20ah battery (both in the mail), what do I need to know? I'm down to have a shop install the kit but I'm not sure if there's special parts I will need or other things I will need to consider. Ultimately I don't want a coaster brake and also I want to be able to use a throttle. Thank you!
    Front load cargo trike with coaster brake

    #2
    Looks like a great project! I rode one like this around as a kid and it was a hoot. Kind of seems like your biggest issues will be with your bike not the Cyclone. If it were me...

    1. I would remove the rear wheel entirely and figure out some way to give it gears and a disc brake. Probably a good place to look for a solution would be a place that sells higher-performance trikes? Sturmey-Archer IGH? Don't know the answer. You can't have a coaster brake on a Cyclone and live to tell about it.

    2. Front brakes. You need good ones. Again... trike shops have solutions I would think and it may involve pulling the wheels and replacing. I would want hydraulics actuated by one lever for both wheels or similar. Has to be a way to do that.

    3. Cyclone installation: Looks straightforward but that completely depends on the bottom bracket, which is not visible.

    Entirely possible a cargo trike is in your future just not this one.

    Also... charge your cell phone battery will ya?

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      #3
      I'm building something similar, in some ways. I will document a lot of what I've done on another thread.

      I know folks love the disc brakes, but for something made for hauling real heavy loads, I recommend drum brakes, and oversized ones. The will never lock, never overheat, never "float", are impervious to elements, don't care if wet or dry, require very infrequent adjustment, and will probably last longer than your bicycle--with zero replacement parts needed.

      Why do I go so nuts about them? 90 mm Sturmey Archer drum brakes (XL-D series) are amazingly powerful. Plenty enough to overload and stop the Cyclone, even if your brake switches should fail. Further, they'll reliably stop you--and YOUR CARGO. I've got them on all three wheels. My front two wheels drum brake hubs also have dynamos in them, so I've got lights independent of whether or not my battery works. Redundancy wasn't the original goal--the bike was unassisted for my first few years with it, and this was one of my first mods. But now, I don't see any reason to change it.

      Are drum brakes heavier than disc brakes? Yes. Who gives a crap? You are installing an (in your case) roughly 2 3/4 horsepower motor on that thing. Weight doesn't matter. Strength and reliability do.

      Next, for exactly the same reason as stated in another article over at the Big Website--I recommend a Sturmey Archer 3-speed hub-shifter for the back end. There is no more solid hub shifter made, period.

      If you like, use the 1/2 x 1/8 chain rings, and then you won't need two kinds of bike chain anymore. All one-speed chain. Simplicity can be your friend.

      I think I will eventually install a chain tensioner, so I can "manually" switch between front chain rings, but I'm not done tinkering just yet!

      Worth noting, is that no matter how good a rider you think you are, your cargo bike will be too scary at really high speeds. So, when choosing your kit's front chain-ring combination, I'd opt for a big outer chain ring (the one the motor turns), and then two smaller chain rings for your drive chain.

      This will give you a lower top speed, but you'll trade that for unbelievable amounts of torque.

      Rear sprockets for that Sturmey Archer hub shifter are cheap, and are widely available in a broad range of sizes--I've got a 28T on there for now.

      I recommend one on the bigger side. 22, 24, 26, or 28 teeth.. Thing is, the motor is most efficient when spinning quick. Let it spin fast at your intended top speed, and cruising speeds, and it'll stay cool and happy, even under loads. Plus, the more "engaged teeth" the happier everything will be. Reduces wear, lots of plusses there.

      Another advantage to a larger rear sprocket for something made to haul heavy things, is to be able to successfully use power at lower speeds, without "bogging down" the motor so much, or without sudden far-too-fast lurches. Small up front, large in back, is more hauling power, but lower top speed. Just what you want for a cargo bike.

      That 3-speed Sturmey Archer hub-shifter is also available with that 90 mm drum brake on the other side. As I mentioned before, I've got one.

      Those hubs work fantastic with Ryde Andra 40 rims too. Again--you will NOT find anything better or stronger for heavy loads.

      I got my "bakfiets" set up for a max of about 40 kilometers per hour. It is reasonably safe still at that speed, but that fast just feels too intense to maintain for regular commuting. When I'm in a big hurry though, it's okay. For the most part, I "cruise" comfortably, at between 25 and 27 kilometers per hour.

      For what it's worth, I bought the 4,000 watt Cyclone for my project, with the waterproof connector.

      Soon, Cyclone will offer a 1 meter extension cord for that waterproof motor / controller connection, so you can put ALL the electric bits out of the rain. I'm gonna buy one.

      It looks like you got a pretty decent battery.

      I figured I wanted about 3/4 of my planned "total price" to be going to the battery. I knew I wanted tons of juice available, so I can haul a heavy load a decent distance.

      I went with 48 volts, so it's a little less "sharp" when you touch hot metal bits, and because it's my first build. Another consideration, though I've yet to buy anything along these lines, was to possibly use some good marine products (switches, protective circuit breakers, etc.), because they're weather and waterproof--and many are compatible with or made for 48 VDC systems.

      To be honest, I wish you could get waterproof throttles. One day soon, somebody better figure it out, because I don't want to replace one every rainstorm.

      I went with a 48V 60AH LiFePo4 battery, from yes--AliExpress--the seller was "Battery Sir". The battery's BMS has a bluetooth app (or you can plug in a USB cord--with the right adapter), for programming, and stuff. The app lets you monitor your speed (using your device's GPS), range, current draw; and on other screens allows you to monitor battery settings, temperature, balancing, individual cell voltages, etc. Pretty nifty.

      At my "cruising speed", my plywood "brick wall" will still go 140 kilometers on that battery--for reference sake. If I dial it back to a pastorally idyllic 16 kilometers per hour, my range leaps to about 235 kilometers. But I'm not about to sit on that saddle for fifteen hours!

      If I'm at my top speed (self-limited), my range plummets to about 75 kilometers.

      I'm gonna detail it elsewhere. But I'm sharing some of those choices, because I've opted for cheaper or crummier parts before, and regretted it. Choose well, buy once, spend less, and ride happy!

      In the end, it's your project--and I hope no matter what I or anybody else tries to tell you, that you just go ahead and focus on making it exactly the cargo trike you want!

      And yeah--too much said again. Sorry about that.

      But good luck!

      Tklop
      Last edited by tklop; 3 hours ago. Reason: I am nit-picking, typos, corrections, clarity.

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