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**DaHose** · 07-04-2020, 04:08 PM

I disagree on Google. It can be quite good for getting you to scholarly articles, but then you have to pay to view the whole thing, like the links below. Once you find a good scholarly article, you end up going down a rabbit hole of databases too.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/scienc...413?via%3Dihub

If Calfee20 is on the money (rhymes people ..... rhymes), then you just need to calculate how much load you want to lift, divide by 1.285kg, and multiply that by cubic meters. Figure a fairly typical person weighing 80Kg(80/1.285)would need a craft containing 62.25 cubic meters of aerogel filled space to create enough lift. The Goodyear blimp measures 5740 cubic meters of volume, so figure a theoretical craft that size could lift 4,466 kilos (5740/1.285). Seems like if you keep your propulsion, avionics, and safety systems weight down, you could get a way with a blimp type craft the size of a large twin plane engine. I'm thinking something more teardrop shaped would be best, for better aerodynamics. I do end up coming across articles talking about graphene aerogel, so looks like folks are trying to make it sturdy already. Hmmmmm......
Jose

**tklop** · 07-16-2020, 10:00 AM

New seat:

Thing is, if I want to change seating positions, a bike-seat just isn't very flexible.

This helps improve comfort in that regard big-time:

https://www.jmpbonderdelen.nl/buddys...axi-zwart.html

Plus it's got room for another adult to perch behind me, if needed.

A brand-new, all-weather, ready-made, decent height, cushy-comfy two-person seat... And the price isn't bad. I figured what the heck?

It's a moped-seat (in case that's not obvious). The front-end is fitted with a seat-post, meant to fit into the moped's frame, where its original bike-seat's saddle-pin went; while the rear-end of the "buddy-seat" mounts to the top of the bike-rack. Basically not terribly unlike a banana-seat in terms of installation...

I saw an obvious opportunity--since the rear-frame of my bakfiets' geometry (along with tons of other bikes) is essentially identical.

Seemed a ready-made solution!

Turns out I should've measured beforehand...

The saddle-pin portion was just a bit too big. It was darn close--but then with a layer of powder-coating that put it over the top. There was just no way the moped-seatpost was fitting into my frame as-is.

But that's okay--we're all inventors here--we adapt; we overcome.

I split the first couple inches of that saddle-pin lengthwise with a hack-saw, then drilled out round relief-holes at the base of each cut. Finally, I took a smooth file and not-so-patiently removed all the powder-coating from the lower-end of the saddle-pin.

Next, I took a black permanent marker, and colored over the ugly white PUCH logo. My bakfiets is not a PUCH.

Then, with a little white-grease, I was able to wrestle the sucker into place.

So far, so good.

It's wider at the front-end than a normal bike-seat, but my pedals are also extra-widely spaced with the 4KW Cyclone, so it's not awkward.

I took a fairly short ride this evening to get a feel for the seat.

Shifting rearward allows me a few different seating-angle and posture options. I expect this will improve comfort on longer rides significantly.

If I want to, I can even slide all the way to the back of the seat, but putting any weight on the bakfiets handlebars causes unpleasant handling--so that's perhaps not the best idea.

So far, it sits nicely--compared to the original bike-seat. Though without springs, its cushioning is deeper. I remain hopeful its shock-absorption properties will save me some lower-back pain too.

I've gotta arrange new saddlebags though--the old ones don't fit anymore...

The work is never done... Thank goodness!

Here's a pic:

**DaHose** · 07-18-2020, 09:25 PM

Rollin with 4 passengers, and no issue? Bakfiets is a BEAST!

Jose

**tklop** · 07-19-2020, 12:08 PM

More lights... Effin' christmas tree...

Lighting has been an evolutionary process (gone into earlier in this thread).

I've got two lighting-systems basically--one 12v, one 5v (USB-power-supply type voltage).

The 12v system does the headlights, fog-lights, and turn-signals, while my marker-lights are powered off the USB voltage.

The 12v system also powers some USB-transformers--and I've used one of those to power the 5v lighting.

One reason for two systems, was that USB-power is a pretty good equivalent to what I'd gotten from my wheel-hub dynamos--and so it works just fine for bike-equipment (like my LED bike-fender taillights). Additionally, USB outlets let me have fun with self-adhesive USB "Strip-Lights" (about 99 cents a piece), which are fantastic for use as marker-lights (and to make a groovy green glow underneath--other silliness)... Yes--some of it's pure ridiculous--and it cannot be reasonably argued that I haven't already got more lighting than I need--but just like anything else, the lighting is also subject to fine-tuning.

So I persist...

Because of the bakfiets' dimensions (as I previously mentioned), electronic turn-signals are actually highly effective--because they've got enough lateral separation.

To this point, I had yellow indicators on the front of the box (they're two-sided mini lollipop lights--so they're also visible from their rearward-facing sides).

Though the bike-fender lights were okay, I thought I'd try to get something 12v. So I'd bought some inexpensive LED two-brightness taillights, which I'd intended to use on the fenders--as taillights and turn-signals.

But those lights weren't actually meant to be used that way--just as brake-lights/taillights. So they only had a resistor for one (+) leg--meaning that when I tried to use them for turn-signals, they'd backfeed (dimly) through front turn-signal on the opposite side. That was obviously not gonna fly...

So--I just decided to use the Bright leg of each of those taillamps, and use it for a turn-signal, and just leave the original (bicycle-equipment) taillights in-place...

But then--a page or two ago--I went and brainstormed that super-simple $5 brake-light-relay circuit... And lame as it is--I've not made use of it yet!

And that meant I did want to use those new taillights--as taillights and brake-lights (and add a third taillight/brakelight to the rear-rack behind me).

Meanwhile, I'd noticed how effective it was having that extra turn-indicator on the rear-side of the box--because it is directly visible to drivers next to me...

So I decided to add another pair of yellow indicators to the rear of the fenders.

When I've got all the 12v lights up and running, I'll evaluate them in comparison to the brightness of the original taillights (the bicycle equip lights).

The bike-lights have built-in reflectors--while the other taillights do not. This is one good reason to leave them in-place...

In any case, if those bike-lights are comparably bright to the Brake Lights' brightness, then I need to make sure I'm not confusing those behind me. Might remove them in that case--just replace them with my "motorbike" brake-light/taillights... Or maybe as another option, I can leave them in their place--just leave them switched off--maybe just reserve them for use as rear fog-lamps.

The turn-signals are installed and operational, but I need more crimp terminals--so the about-to-be-un-re-purposed brake-lights and tail-lights still have to wait for now--but the bicycle-type ones are still fine as taillights for the time being.

There will inevitably be more to follow...

**tklop** · 07-21-2020, 07:51 AM

Another idea--which I probably won't do, but wish to keep in mind...

LiFePO4 High-Discharge Pouch-Cells are awesome for powering a bakfiets. Flat, rectangular--they're easy to pack into a suitcase-battery like I have.

Though I'd be hesitant to do so with other battery chemistry types, I'm considering a sort-of "floor-battery" idea:

Simple idea: Lay the flat, rectangular cells out on the bakfiets plywood floor (or a footprint-facsimile thereof), arranging them in a series-geometry. If a 16s battery is desired, an appropriate size cell can be selected to take advantage of as much of that floor space as possible; while smaller-dimension cells could be used if one desired a 20p or a 24p battery. Once that single-layer is figured out, and the cell-order established, adding "parallel groups" simply involves stacking another layer of cells atop the last.

The first advantage is obviously the lowest-possible center-of-gravity for the machine. The battery's mass being centered--and very low--would add badly needed stability to the machine.

Next, the number of desired parallels is simply a matter of stacking additional layers of cells.

I could arrange the cells I'm currently using inside the suitcase-battery, but I could increase to 18p--while significantly lowering the center-of-gravity, and while restoring all the cargo-space that suitcase battery now consumes.

The idea, would be to use periodic supports between cells, and then sandwich them (weatherproof/waterproof) beneath another plywood-floor.

So, yes, the floor would be raised--but then everything above it would simply be open. Not just a lot more stable--room for a lot more stuff.

I'll need to look into things more deeply, to see if any more protection beyond what the BMS would offer is indicated... But this may be one of my next evolutionary steps...

Again--I'd attempt to keep the floor-battery just as modular as everything else in my design. I think that'd be completely doable.

Anyways--that's for further down the road, when I've my own shop--or at least some room to work in.

But I didn't want to forget the concept--so as usual, I'm using my project-thread as a note-pad!

More to follow...

Maybe today I finally get the brake-lights going--with my handy-dandy-little relay-circuit thingy.

**tklop** · 08-12-2020, 01:03 PM

My kids are growing, and I'd like to get them to fit in the bakfiets a little longer. So I've done a couple mods.

I've raised the roof in the front by 2 1/2 inches, and in the rear by about 7 3/4 inches,

I have also partially redone the seating, now a forward-facing more-or-less "adult-size" seat, instead of the narrow kid-bench.

I've also moved the speakers to the front-end of the box, to facilitate the other changes.

I'm not done completely yet. I wish to free-up foot-space in the front of the bakfiets, by moving the stereo and speakers upward.

As with every other thing I've done since the beginning--this is purely experimental, and is bound to develop.

There will be more to follow.

**tklop** · 09-19-2020, 08:00 AM

Latest conversion:

The donor-bike was literally free. Thrown away.

I live in a big apartment building. Every so often a huge dumpster is placed outside, and everybody's "too big to fit in the garbage can" stuff gets heaved in.

Somebody rolled this bike up to the pile of crap (old appliances, and several other completely mangled bikes)... Yes--I said "rolled this bike"... With the key still in the lock.

So, I just made my way downstairs, and rolled the bike back up to my apartment.

Now--the bike had no seat, a flat front-tire, no lights.

The bike has a million dings and nicks in the paint, and each is rusty. It's quite possible it has had a swim in one of The Netherlands' many canals and/or ditches.

The story was clear: The bike's chain had fallen off, and jammed. The bike had been parked. Pieces had been picked off the bike (its seat). Perhaps for another of the owner's bikes--or perhaps while sitting outside someplace--with its busted chain--either way. After the seat was gone, and the tires went flat, well... Remember what I said about Dutch bike owners? Literally there's no "user maintenance" done in most cases. And this was an old bike... A shed-queen. And somebody decided it was time to "clean up"...

Out there on Big Garbage Day, there were three others--a racing-bike frame, a mountain-bike frame, and a really beat-up omafiets with potato-chipped wheels. I just let the metals-guy haul them away... I cannot save all the orphaned bikes.

Amazing though, what an oil-moistened rag can do--for such cosmetic issues. Ask me? I say she's turned out looking damn good.

It's a "Limit" brand bicycle, the model is "Xalina". The bicycle was manufactured for Halfords--and made right here, in The Netherlands.

I replaced the front tire and tube. New inner-tube obviously, but the outer tire was one of my old bakfiets rear-wheel tires.

I popped my old bakfiets seat (along with quick-adjusting nut, and seatpost) on.

I always prefer brake-lights when possible, and I still maintain the easiest way to arrange them is via a wheel-hub generator in the front-wheel. Busch & Muller make some that sense the pulse-rate of your wheel-dynamo, and when that pulse-rate drops, it activates a brighter pulsing brake-light effect--for those following you. Fantastic. Works with our without your e-bike battery, works anytime your bike is moving. The lights remain illuminated for a few-minutes too after stopping, for stoplights and the like, and so you can see your way through your back garden. Wheel-hub dynamos are reliable, and believe-it-or-not, less energy-consumptive. The difference is admittedly marginal, but it's measurable. Monitoring the wattage-meter on two otherwise identical e-bikes, you can compare the wattage-increase due to resistance of the dynamo generating the 6VAC signal, versus the wattage-increase than you get using the same exact headlamp--powered by the system's 6VDC light-circuit. The dynamo is measurably more energy-efficient.

But this bike had no front-wheel hub-dynamo--so that's not an option (for now). Furthermore, none of the TSDZ2 conversions I've done have used e-bike brake-handles, so my easy-peasy brake-light relay-mod won't work either. So, for the sake of simplicity it has no brake-lights (just like 99.99% of other Dutch bikes).

To keep it simple, I just bought and installed an e-bike headlight (6vdc), wiring it into the TSDZ2's light-circuit.

And for the rear-light, I discovered something handy: First--let me just say I'm not a fan of throw-away batteries. They're like nasty little pollution-pills, wrapped in excess packaging. Plus, throw-away batteries are disappointment postponed. Replace them and replace them--you'll still wind up in the end with another damn dead battery. Not much to like about them--if you ask me.

So--encountering taillights with throw-away batteries in them (my own bikes, my kids' bikes, my ex's, etc), I typically remove the battery-powered lights, and try to replace them with dynamo-lights. Over the years, I've collected a decent box-full---and mind you, I've recycled all their old dead batteries--no worries.

One of them, had indications (vestiges from another model-line more than likely) that it might've been manufactured in other versions--perhaps a generator-version... So, I just tested it out with the TSDZ2's light-circuit--and lo-and-behold, it worked. No issues whatsoever. Soldered the wires in--bolted it on--done deal.

The L-rack/baker's rack on the front is new too, and I replaced the ring-lock with an Axa Defender, with the plug-in chain. Here in The Netherlands, it's simple: You don't have to have the best bike-lock in the world--you just have to make sure your bike is locked up better than the one next to it.

I made the full-bike "finished" pic (above) last night.

But then--realized I just had to rig up a chain-guard. Just had to.

So I did. I cut an old bakfiets chain-guard to fit, and rolled the ragged-edges I'd made under. I actually think it turned out pretty nice. (second pic is before I got the oily-rag onto the chain-guard, and fine-tuned the fit)

Backstory and motivation:

The Giant Mio (that I'd previously converted) well, I discovered to my dismay that it has some cracks in the chainstays. Both sides, almost all the way through, just at the forward-edge of the kickstand mounting-pad, radiating upward from below (only a tiny bit of metal left).

Needless to say, I'd call that unsafe to ride.

I'd bought that bike new with my ex--and the frame should have a lifetime guarantee--and my ex and I will just have to see how that plays out.

But clearly--urgent action was required...

So--that's the backstory--and that's where the kit came from. It's not new--it's the one from the Mio. And now it's on the Limit Xalina.

"Reduce, Reuse, Recycle". All three at play, multiple times over... Do I win a prize?

All the best, everyone,

tklop

**DaHose** · 09-19-2020, 07:56 PM

What a great little find! Another noble ride saved from a tragic end. Well done!

Jose

**tklop** · 09-20-2020, 08:24 AM

Update to the Main Project...

On the 4KW Cyclone mid-motor, the waterproof-connector burnt a contact, so I hacked the connectors off, and soldered in wire-sections to replace it. This wire now has multiple splices along its length, but ultimately is more reliable than ever.

I've been enjoying having multiple controls on my switch-panel.

Most frequently, I use the PAS on/off, next would be the Throttle-Link (either throttle controls both front-and-rear systems when "on"), and the Cruise-Control Set (which only applies to the front-motors).

What I've found, is that the PAS actually works one heck of a lot better with my 3WD system . Both my Suring direct-drive front-wheel hub-motors are also powered by Cyclone controllers (40A bluetooth-versions, while of course the mid-drive's is the 60A bluetooth version).

I generally get rolling on the throttles before switching the PAS on. More control--less lurch--preferable.

And no mistake--for the 4KW mid-drive, the PAS still comes on way too hard--but here's the thing: Those DD front-motors kick in just ahead of the mid-drive, which essentially unloads it--just enough--so while the Cyclone still tries to come on really hard, the end-result is that the previous chain-busting "kick" is transformed into more or less a "shove". In this way, the PAS can even be used from a dead-stop (though not recommended). Okay, sure--multiple motor systems aren't for everybody. But the PAS also acts as another "preset" cruise-control speed--which handily enough (in 3rd--my top gear) comes out to just about 30 kph--a speed which I find to be a nearly ideal traffic-free, smooth, open-road/bike-path commuting-speed--just under the exponentially rising wind-resistance.battery-drain curve, while maintaining plenty of reaction-time...

I guess I could've just said, "Cyclone Controllers' PAS isn't actually useless anymore--with AWD systems".

Anyways... I rode that Limit Xalina (post 112) to my ex--and collected her other (nearly busted) e-bike--another of my earlier conversion-bikes--and rode it back home again from my ex's...

It's the Batavus Yakima which had the Suring front-wheel hub-motor (Sondors type system). All the chains, sprockets, derailleurs--all are grimy and the freewheel doesn't freewheel--and the chain falls off--and yeah... It's still a decent bike, but it's just not so terribly rideable anymore.

My ex being currently happy with her current assortment of bikes will not be needing this one back any time soon, but I do intend to rebuild it.

Not sure whether to stick with the front-wheel geared-hub motor that's on it already, and just redo all the other parts--or if I want to do another mid-drive.

I'm thinking of putting another of those TSDZ2 mid-motors on it--such a simple install, hassle-free, quiet, reliable (in my experience). adequate assist--though not crazy--they're also not as murderous to bike-components as many more-potent mid-drives tend to be (I've only ever bought the 48V 750W [peak] versions--and with the exception of the speed-limit, I've run them all at factory-settings).

But it's not urgent just yet. I need a workspace. My living room is less than ideal.

Whine, whine, whine, whine, whine. Oh, yeah--and another thing: Whine!

More to follow--I'm sure...

**DaHose** · 09-20-2020, 12:39 PM

Sweet description on using combined PAS in your application. As always, the joyous experiment continues!

Jose

**tklop** · 02-08-2021, 03:12 AM

Winter storm. Snow. Ice. 3WD bakfiets--for the win.

The "Speed Limit" setting is ideal for snow and ice (just as it was for off-road on marginal surfaces). I can even combine it with cruise-control, and just roll right through everything.

If I had any friends, they could film me in action--but sorry. No pics, no vids--just my word.

My bakfiets just got another legit reason to be the number one favorite car I've ever owned.

All the best,

tklop

**DaHose** · 02-08-2021, 11:42 AM

Braving a Norway winter day on a Bakfiets. Gotta admire your commitment!

Jose

**tklop** · 2021-04-05T11:28:48

I think I wanna find an old (but not yet leaky) paddle-wheel boat--and drop a 4KW Cyclone into it... Doesn't that just sound like fun? Ditch the freewheels--rig the "reverse" switch--and heck yeah! Super-maneuverable--no longer exhausting--thus even more fun than ever little e-paddle-boat...

Wait... How come Luna doesn't offer one yet?

Oh, well... If the madness ever manifests--you'll all be the first to know!

All the best, fellow mad inventor people!

Take care

Tklop

**DaHose** · 2021-04-05T19:01:48

Interesting idea, but a little paddleboat could just use a trolling motor instead. If we are going mad scientist, I think you would need to rig together a 100mm jet drive.

Jose

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