Nice build man! You must have built a few bikes, it looks real good. I am totally new and for my personal bike I am looking to get a set up like this. I am just to green to jump that deep at first. But I am def going to go back thru your thread to get info. Maybe I can find a builder here in FL to help me put the parts together.
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I am just north of orlando all the time. Lol. I need to become a snow bird thou. I have played a few shows at the amphitheater by the hardrock.Comment
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Well I needed to do some maintenance before Florida this year. The bike also had a clicking in 4th and 5th and the chain would hit the tire in 7th so I ordered a new derailleur. I also have an eight speed freewheel that I will use the top seven speeds and leave the largest sprocket like a spoke protector. I am going to change my spacing in the back to see if I can get my seventh speed back.
I am also going to abandon my tubeless tire setup and go back to tubes with Stans in the tubes.
Well this was a good upgrade. The new derailleur and chain are working flawlessly and my chain is just barely touching the tire when I am in first. Both up and down shifting while pedaling feels like an automatic. Shifting while pedaling keeps the power uninterrupted and the flow of the ride is much better. This bike is ready for Florida now.Comment
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kauaicycler commented
1 day ago
"I'm interested in doing a mxus build for this bike. I've read your threads a couple of times and I don't see where you mention using any torque arms. What did you do to secure a big hub motor in an aluminum frame or is your frame steel? The current Lux Fat Tire 7D is aluminum. Thanks!"
Comments can get lost in the weeds so to speak and I almost lost this one. It is better add an entry or quote something because it shows up better. Anyway torque arms.
When I had the Edge on the bike I used Torque arms made by Grin.
https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-...orqarm-v4.html
I only used that piece that fits the axle. I put one on each side and I pushed one forward and one to the back and drilled a hole in each flat rear dropout plate for the nut and bolt. Then when I switched to the Mxus motor those arms didn't fit because the axle is larger. It is still 10mm across the flats but it is 2mm larger in diameter or 16mm. So I bought arms from West coast cycle.
https://west-coast-electric-cycles.m...-m16-m14-axles
Then Miracle of miracles the holes I drilled for the other arms perfectly lined up..
After building several bikes I have decided that you should get your rear wheel spacing, freewheel, chain, and all correct before you lace your wheel. Then you will know exactly how to dish your wheel. The factory bike had 26 X 3.5 fat tires and then when I changed to 26 X 4.0 knobbys my chain was hitting the knobs. Those torque arms can be used as spacers on either the inside or the outside while you are setting up your stack.
Everything was fine until I got my regen working. The 45 mm Mxus motor produces an insane amount of braking. It was almost like slamming on the brakes without dragging the rear wheel until I toned it down by reprograming the controller.. The constant change in direction of the applied torque had the axle nuts loosening up. there was a lot of creaking going on back there. The answer to this problem came from Mr. Bill over on endless sphere.
I installed a couple of "NordLock" washers and tightened the heck out of the axle nuts.
https://www.amazon.com/Wedge-Locking...6719903&sr=8-1
I also got a decent set of axle flange nuts instead of the crap that comes with the motor.
The regen is worth all of the trouble it caused. 95% of my braking is done with the micro switches built into my brake levers. I will see if I can get a couple of photos tomorrow if I don't forget......calfee
PS I'm thinking of building another one. Only with the Tall steel frame and a 6T 35mm motor. The tires will be Schwalbe 2.8 X 27.5 Super Motos. There may be some welding involved on the rear dropouts and the head tube for the suspension fork. I have ALL of the parts except the frame. A new tall cruiser in steel is less than $400. Right now this bike is in my head. We will have to see if it ever gets out.Last edited by calfee20; 12-18-2019, 06:21 PM.Comment
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This is the right side of course.
Here is the other side. Those extra hole are the remains of that 5 speed Sturmey Archer installation.Comment
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Here is the bike on the beach at Fort DeSoto park south of Tampa near St Pete.
Blue water Blue sky, this was a great ride. It was a little short though at 12 miles and it takes me an hour of driving to get here from where I am staying north of Tampa.Comment
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Hi calfee... I just read the thread, your bike looks awesome. I am in the process of putting a 1500w Voilamart hub motor into a 26" fat wheel and am wondering what spoke length you needed? I have ordered a Cyclo spoke thread roller to cut and roll new threads... but if you can tell me the spoke length, I may be able to get the job done sooner
This is my thread on it... https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...a-26-fat-wheelComment
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That is the kind of question that needs a lot of information to answer correctly. Even if I had that information I wouldn't tell you because if I was wrong you would be pissed at me. I will give you the link for the calculator that I use.Originally posted by Calcifer View Post
Go over the whole page. There are some links to some videos............hmmmm maybe I can find one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OialWggZJoComment
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Thanks, I am just trying to find out if the spokes I have coming (155mm 165mm and 175mm) will be in the ballpark. I don't get pissed at friends I ask for advice in good faith, if you say your spokes are 163mm, I am not going to go and buy a bunch of 163 mm spokes .... your hub may be different dimensions to my Violamart hub motor, your rim may be different from my Chinese fat bike rims... there may be a different amount of 'clocking' of the motor to the rim, meaning I need longer or shorter spokes than yours.
If you can say your spokes fall between 155mm and 175mm that would give me an indication if the spokes I have coming might work... I have some 10mm, 12mm and 14mm nipples and nipple end washers coming too, which may or may not be needed.
I would appreciate if you could break your rule and let me know the length and if the drive side and non drive side are the same or not... purely out of interest, NOT to rely on your measurements to copy
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