Does anyone know where to get a small inconspicuous A/B switch for adding a second 52v battery to my setup? The ones I have found were ether big and ugly or 12v or lower. I think this will be my best option rather than trying trying to keep all the variables with running them in parallel correct .
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I asked the same question on this thread.http://electricbike.com/forum/forum/...eed-more-range and was sent this link. http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender...MS36K0X33QW9D4-
The response was "Similar to this." Thinking someone would be willing to spend the time searching for themselves. Sadly I lost the links and even the invoices. It took several hours to find the right switch. They ARE available. I have no current need and aren't inspired to go through the arduous search. But the right DPDT toggle is available.
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I don't have the link handy, but I would suggest you search on Marine electrical websites. The one I am looking at is waterproof and 30 Amp rating. Make sure the amp rating is high enough for your system (BBSHD 30A min).Comment
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Agreed, the marine switches are the only ones I have found that I would trust with the amperage and being exposed to the elements. However , I have never seen one small enough to use on a build, and they are pricey .Comment
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Put the switch in a box. Seal it and the wires with silicone and add a rubber boot to the toggle switch. http://www.amazon.ca/Pieces-Thread-W...le+switch+bootComment
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This one was rated for 30A. I posted on nearly every forum and got the same bad advise dispensed here. This and several others have stood up to Minnesota weather for over a year now. ACF50, Boeshield, and other similar products ought to be in any eBike builders kit. (i prefer the tested dry typeS over them but these are the easiest to find) It's unfortunate that people who haven't found the right switch, have no experience with the type, somehow know they won't work or are unsafe.Originally posted by Bicycle365 View Post
Expect to spend some hours going through spec sheets and spending $50 or more. We were happy to find the NKK and 30A rated. I'm certain the version on the pictured build is 48V and 50A. We just haven't gotten around to changing the controller and re wiring to see the part number. I did find them by searching and reading many spec sheets. The right specs are out there.
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As usual, all the forums and other posters are wrong. Thank God ! you are here with the right answers!Originally posted by tomjasz View Post
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I'm sorry I din't mean they were wrong, I think they just missed the specs, or got frustrated with the time it takes to search out the solution, and since then have found the way to make it work. It's how we learn. If everyone just stopped at the first negative response nothing would have changed. I'm not Eric, or Justin or JPLabs. But all of whom have shown the common wisdom may not be so wise. They all found facts outside of the common wisdom. Hell many of Justin's career and successes were contrary to common wisdom. The path down the BBSHD builts was fraught with pitfalls and mistaken judgements. I'm a beginner and have done more than a dozen different builds, I've learned to be tenacious. Learn, not give up just because the respondents didn't have the knowledge or didn't have the same interest or idea to solve. It's a crossover part. Sometimes it just takes digging and yes, even some risks to find there are workable solutions. My objection was to someone simply discharging the idea without any experience. Without considering in the responses that many components have more exposure to the elements.Last edited by tomjasz; 09-26-2016, 07:31 PM.
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Great suggestion, leaving the terminals exposed is a Wile-E-Coyote moment waiting to happen. Cost of a proper switch and an enclosure should be less than a speciality product.Originally posted by calfee20 View PostComment
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Damn I forget, controllers are all water proof and nothing is exposed to the elements.Comment
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Originally posted by tomjasz View Post
Another wet summer and the switches have done as well as the controller, with no problems with moisture. Of course everything gets a yearly cleaning and an ACF50 treatment. There are beer treatments from actual testing but accessing the better commands in small quantities remains the adventure. Good solder work and neatly done sheik tubing along with silicon form Weld On. That seems to be the absolutely most flexible and resilient I've used. I wish I could find it in larger tubes and a bit less expensive. I finally found the part numbers and as you can see form the PDF there are DPDT on/off/on switches rated for the use on a BBSHD system.
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Hi can somebody help me with this switch please do i connect the battery wires for each battery to the 2 outside screws on each side of the switch and the controller connected to the middle screws on the switch?Comment
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This article helped me understand how to determine the proper rating for a switch. Given the inductive load on the switch for our bike batteries, tomjasz's points are well taken. https://www.electronicdesign.com/tec...c-from-your-dcComment
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