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    Luna X1 advanced troubleshooting : battery and power wiring

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    Luna X1 Advanced Battery and power wiring troubleshoot

    You tried the basic M600 troubleshooting and still no power? No display or nothing:

    Make sure that you have voltage going out of the battery , you can measure the voltage from the XT60 like explained in step 3 of the basic troubleshooting or you can measure the voltage from the battery direct. I recommend you start from the XT60 first. If you have voltage there it means the battery is likely fine! IF you dont then you will have to remove the battery and measure from the terminals under the pack.

    Please watch this video :



    Now what you don't see int he video is were to position your probes on the battery terminals:

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    With the battery turned ON, just stick your multimeter probes in to the 2 outside terminals (the inner ones are not connected),


    B) If you have voltage from the battery (41V to 54V), Then measure the voltage from the Xt60 male connector that is plugged into the motor, Simply make sure the battery is inserted and powered on, unplug the XT and measure from the male side (not on the motor).

    If you are not measuring anything going into the motor Or the display power up and then just quits right away? please remove the battery cradle and inspect the back of the male terminal, make sure the no wire came loose or pulled out.

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    If you have the Fisher Fab house LED it should look like this

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    Note for the Fisher LED, if you light and motor/display do not power up then start with unplugging this yellowfins connector (XT30) and try again.


    If you have a broken connection (and not sure how to fix it) or a battery that still does not work after inspecting the connections, please open a support ticket at support@lunacycle.com

    You may continue with the basic troubleshooting for other tip and advice, click here


    Battery is not charging / BMS is in fault

    When you connect the charger to a battery that is not at 100% SOC (state of charge), the charger status LED should be red not green. If it's green that means the charger thinks the battery is charged. So what can be the problem?

    1) Charger is defective
    2)Charge port is broken (a wire is disconnected from the back, or the - tab or +pin are damaged)

    3) BMS is in fault.

    1) So make sure that the battery is still working, so plug it in the bike and see if it still works. If it does not work go back to the section above this.

    The first step would be to rule out the charger, so if you have another 48V Li-ion charger you can try it, if you have a 52V charger you can also try it but only for a few seconds as you don't want to go over the 54.6V limit. Or you can try this charger on another ebike or 48V battery (if you have access to it). If you don't the best way to know if it's working is to do a jumpstart on the discharge, that can do 2 things, first it can clear a BMS fault (#3) and it will confirm that the charger is good or bad



    Jumpstart procedure

    Se have a in depth guide on general battery issue and if you click the following link it will take you to it, just scroll down to step 2.2 and it will show you how to do it on a battery that is pretty similar to the X1 . Click here to be redirected

    All you need is t pieces of wires to be able to link the battery to the charge port. IT is easier if you have 2 set of hands.. If not what I do is tape up the wires to the charger barrel end and work on the battery with my 2 hands. Remember, this is safe but only charge for a few seconds... you are bypassing the BMS charging protections by doing this. If the charger works, go to step #2.. if the charger does not work, it means the charger is likely bad!

    This is the polarity of the connector, battery in front of you, back facing you , connector at the bottom, the right pin is the positive (RED) and ground (BLACK) on the left. You can use a multimeter to be sure!


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    Polarity of the charger barrel end, positive (RED) is the inner hole, black is the ground outer sleeve, make sure not to shot them out. I personally tape them good to avoid any movement.

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    This is a shark battery but it's pretty much the exact same on your X1 battery, same kind of terminal (except the positive is on the left on the shark) and same charger

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    2) Charger does work fine on the discharge connector

    That means the issue is in the battery, it can be simply that the wires inside the battery top are not making contact with the back side of the female port. So open the battery top and inspect the wiring. Can be something easy to spot. Have a look at the 2 first pictures of the advanced troubleshooting section (just scroll up a bit) you will have 2 wires going to the barrel end, see if one is detached.

    If you haven't watched the video , now is a good time :



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    If you have a multimeter best would be to poke the insulation of these 2 wires to measure the voltage (see video), you should have the exact same voltage that you have at the discharge connector were you did the jumpstart. If you do have the same voltage then that can be a confirmation that the actual charge port is bad, in this case we case help you, you just need to open a support ticket (if you already have one open just reply to us)

    If you don't have any voltage reading that means the BMS is in fault, likely a permanent fault because you just did a reset with the jumpstart. in this case open a support ticket (if you already have one open just reply to us)

    Replacing the main harness

    With the motor fully removed ,carefully tie dental floss or a used shifter/brake cable (or any flexible small cable) to old harness at display / throttle plug , pull from bottom and remove old harness leaving guide wire in the frame . Carefully tape or tie guide wire to new display /throttle plug and push / pull gently til plugs come out of hole, be careful not to pull too hard. The junction where the throttle /display split it too big to fit thru frame hole so it stays inside the frame.
    Last edited by Sebz; 08-31-2021, 08:29 AM.

    #2
    Does anyone know how to lower the seat? It looks as if when you loosen the seat screw that it could be raised but there seems like there are two posts and the smaller post is on the lowest setting. I'm 6'1" and it still seems kind of tall.

    Comment


    • HopHead88
      HopHead88 commented
      Editing a comment
      the seat is on a remote dropper post.... it shoule have a leaver on the handlebars that will lower the seat, but you need to be applying downward pressure or else it will raise. I am assuming since mine is still in fed ex purgatory.....

    • bl2000watts
      bl2000watts commented
      Editing a comment
      That is the seat dropper post remote. Mine is not working either.

    #3
    Just took delivery of mine last night and assembled today. Beautiful bike - very well integrated battery and motor. Work of art!. Anyway my dropper post is not working either - anyone have any ideas.

    Comment


      #4
      Originally posted by steelersmb View Post
      I just put my bike together. Does anyone know what the switch next to the throttle does? I haven't had a chance to ride mine yet but was just wondering.
      That's the dropper seat post release. If you press it while sitting on the seat, the seat will go down. Take care to stabilize yourself :)

      Comment


        #5
        A quick note on the dropper seat post for anyone experiencing an issue. I had to adjust mine slightly. The seat would "leak" down as I rode. I made a quick video yesterday when I made the adjustment.

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xpxFNBE-gI

        Comment


          #6
          How fast has everyone been able to get their bike going on throttle mode? I have only been able to go about 21 MPH. A little disappointing. I bought my son an FLX bike which has the same exact motor and it goes about 26-28 MPH.

          Comment


          • bradleyland
            bradleyland commented
            Editing a comment
            The top speed is gearing limited. The bike comes out of the box setup to climb like a mountain goat. A larger front chainring would give you more top speed.

          • joost
            joost commented
            Editing a comment
            I had a Bionx that would only go 20... but a 7 mile commute going 20 was no fun. Of course when I get mine, I’m off roading!

          • Robocam
            Robocam commented
            Editing a comment
            How many teeth are on the chainring of your FLX?

          #7
          I am getting 25 mph. I was stuck at 20 the other day. It was unexplainable. I haven't gotten to the bottom of why that happened.

          Comment


            #8
            Originally posted by tomdav View Post
            This bike is marketed as silent. Mine seems pretty loud.

            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4Fz8ouCAQ8

            Is this normal? Any way to make it quieter? Or is this a consequence of the steel gears?
            Mine sounds like a 49cc moped just screaming down the road. Even on low speeds with low assist the motor still has a significant whine to it.

            Comment


            • Zith18
              Zith18 commented
              Editing a comment
              I have the same issue. I’m hoping for a solution before the week’s end. The trails I’ll be riding don’t have rules against ebikes but if I come in with my noisy ebike I may get them all banned :(

            • tomdav
              tomdav commented
              Editing a comment
              Paging Scoonie to tell you it isn't that loud. Sorry to hear it isn't just me. The noise may die down somewhat as the gears break in. Also, check out Kepler's tear down video. His motor was quieter than mine before, and he said he got a 20% reduction in noise after re-greasing. Worth a try.

            #9
            Originally posted by Jsaw View Post

            Mine sounds like a 49cc moped just screaming down the road. Even on low speeds with low assist the motor still has a significant whine to it.
            It's hard to tell how loud is loud, Maybe you could check it with a db. meeter, you can download an app or buy one cheap.

            Comment


              #10
              I had the same problems with my M-620 Ultra. In its well-developed condition it was still quite ,maybe a little louder than a BBsHD, but once he was installed in the frame, he was quite loud because the voluminous frame amplifies the vibration as a resonant body. I was able to halve the volume by placing sealing paper between the motor and the frame and filling the cavities with foam. Maybe that helps with Luna X-1

              Comment


              • paxtana
                paxtana commented
                Editing a comment
                That is an interesting suggestion, and could be worth a shot.

                We were discussing sound with our lead mechanic and he said that the motor echoes through the carbon frame so you might be onto something there. Though I would probably start with greasing it, given that it appears pretty easy to service and Bafang has been known to skimp on the grease in previous motors.

              • bl2000watts
                bl2000watts commented
                Editing a comment
                Wouldn't that create the potential for the motor to overheat?

              • KaroKönig
                KaroKönig commented
                Editing a comment
                Because of the overheating, I would not consider. The foam does not sit directly on the engine and the carbon frame derives no heat in contrast to the aluminum frame.In my case, the engine is just as warm as before, only quieter

              #11
              I bought two x1’s, a small and a medium. Both of them make a much much louder noise then I was expecting. I’m really hoping there is a solution to quiet them down. I’m mulling over sending them back. Also one of the dropper posts doesn’t stay up. Looks like I’ll have to take the seat post out and apply the fix a poster above mentioned.

              Other then the above I am super excited about these bikes. Thanks Luna for making such a compelling offering! I really really hope there is something that can be done about the noise.

              https://youtu.be/CqujfjBpVMk

              Comment


              • Breadwig
                Breadwig commented
                Editing a comment
                I am kind of stuck on whether to get a small or a medium once they're available again. I'm 5'7. What do you think of the size difference between them?

              • Zith18
                Zith18 commented
                Editing a comment
                The medium felt fine but so did the small. Im 5’7 as well and I think the small is what I would go with personally

              #12
              There is an adjuster for the dropper post. It is and inch or two down the cable from the lever on the handlebars. You just turn it cw or ccw.

              Comment


                #13
                Originally posted by paxtana View Post
                That is an interesting suggestion, and could be worth a shot.

                We were discussing sound with our lead mechanic and he said that the motor echoes through the carbon frame so you might be onto something there. Though I would probably start with greasing it, given that it appears pretty easy to service and Bafang has been known to skimp on the grease in previous motors.
                Well I thought Luna put in steel gears so wouldn't you have greased it if the grease job Bafang did was inadequate?

                Comment


                • paxtana
                  paxtana commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Is Kepler's frame carbon?

                • tomdav
                  tomdav commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Yes, exact same carbon frame. He did his own build (as did Wayne) buying the frame directly from Defgfu. Wayne has the original version of the M600 with the nylon reduction gear and noise isn't an issue for him. Kepler has the steel gear but indicates he got it quiet enough to live with after re-greasing. Here are the respective builds on ES:

                  Kepler: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi...?f=28&t=101715

                  Wayne: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/vi...p?f=28&t=96461

                • steelersmb
                  steelersmb commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I received a letter with my bike stating that Luna did outfit the motor with a steel gear.

                #14
                Also Paxtana, just to clairify Kepler got his direct from Denfu a month or so ago as he is in Australia and I got mine direct from Dengfu and it came with the plastic gear as I was one of the early buyers of this paltform.

                Comment


                  #15
                  I took the bikes out on the trail with my wife. I was really excited and I really really wanted to like the bikes. I unfortunately there are just too many issues.

                  1) As discussed above, the noise was just very high and very off putting.

                  2) The power levels are weird. It felt like I was riding a poorly tuned prototype. Levels 1 and 2 are basically useless. I found them to be the same as riding a regular bike. Just enough power to make it feel like a normal bike. Then 3 is insanely powerful nearly the same as 4, 5, and boost. I could barely tell the difference between the upper levels. I really wanted a goldi locks level of power. Maybe with out the ludicrous upgrade 3 would have felt better. Either way it was either too low power to be useful (levels 1 and 2) under 100 watts on the display. Or waay too much, over 500 hundred watts on the display. I also tried the 9 level settings it was the same issue anything 4 or under was useless and anything over 5 was too much.

                  3) The cords in the display units won’t stay in. My wife’s came out 6 times during the ride and mine came out 8 times. I jammed them in as hard as a I can and still got periodic turn offs that required you to rejam the plugs. They never fell out but just came loose enough to lose connection

                  The above three issues together are a deal breaker for me. Combined with the seat post issues I will be sending them back :(

                  Comment


                  • Zith18
                    Zith18 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    It’s total wattage that’s the problem, I’m serious it feels like there are only two power setttings. Very low or very high.

                  • joost
                    joost commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Power setting screw probably would have addressed that; perhaps that’s why there’s such a disparity.

                  • Robocam
                    Robocam commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I don't feel that way about the power levels. I find that there is a distinct difference between levels 1 or 2 (I say 1 or 2 because I haven't really played with them much), 3, 4 and 5. What I wish is that the throttle was set so that it could command all 2000 watts at any assist setting. The way it's currently setup, the throttle doesn't command full power even at the highest assist level because when I activate the torque sensor, the power reading on the display goes up even higher. This can lead to people falsely thinking it's not that powerful if they're using throttle-only.
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