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Luna X1 advanced troubleshooting : battery and power wiring

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    Adjust "B" screw & "H" limit screw as for any other bike.
    Optimize the "B" screw adjustment for max chain wrap around the smallest sprocket while not causing pulleys to rub in bigger cogs (you will know rub when you hear it).
    Not to be smart but its no different than any other bike with a derailleur. There are a million youtube vids to show how.
    I adjusted mine & it does not skip in12th gear, even under max Ludi power & max pedaling. (it may start to skip when it gets worn)

    Comment


      I just remembered, My shifter cable was a bit too tight, (even when adjusted in all the way) to allow the small cog to engage. It needed the derailleur's cable clamp bolt to be released to let the cable pull through a bit. This was a bit fiddly to do because the end of the cable is kinda under the derailleur.& hard to see.

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        Why is this forum so quiet, aren't people using their X1's.

        I wish we had a list or X1 owners, & their individual type of riding.so we could share X1 exclusive stuff. I'm at 300miles, (all tough singletrack) so far. & I'm learning all the time. How many of us are there? The more activity there is amongst us the more we will draw Luna into the discussion, which can only bring about good learning.

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        • HIGHVOLTAGE
          HIGHVOLTAGE commented
          Editing a comment
          A lot of X-1 riders and owners are on the Fast Electric Bike page on Facebook. Forums are not usually as popular these days as they used to be.

        • bradleyland
          bradleyland commented
          Editing a comment
          I'm too busy out there riding :) I'm about to head out now! I just passed 450 miles, all off-road trail and singletrack.


        Make sure this threaded rear spacer is tight, if not it can back out as you undo the rear axle. When you retighten the rear axle it will tighten down the wheel ok but alow the freehub to move & trash the pawls & ratchet ring.

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          Originally posted by Mike Eatough View Post
          Preview attachment 20191202_145115.jpg



          20191202_145115.jpg
          3.1 MB
          Make sure this threaded rear spacer is tight, if not it can back out as you undo the rear axle. When you retighten the rear axle it will tighten down the wheel ok but alow the freehub to move & trash the pawls & ratchet ring.
          Hi mike, not sure if it's just me but I can't see your attached pictures.
          I tried to keep this thread active by posting some pictures the other night but no luck.

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            I ordered a twist grip shifter.
            Is the cable routing through the frame to the derailer going to be easy?

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              Mike Eatough Looks like drag and drop for images is not currently working, probably due to a recent update. I reckon that's why the images you attach are showing as broken gmail links? Working on getting it fixed but in the meantime if you press the image button in the editor:
              Click image for larger version

Name:	2019-12-05 17_20_36.png
Views:	1219
Size:	39.7 KB
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              Click the upload tab in that dialog box, hit browse and select the image, the click send to server. This will insert it full size. I usually double click the inserted image at that point and select medium from the sizing dropdown, or go to the lower right corner of the image to resize it by hand.
              Attached Files

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                I once had chain skip in the smaller cogs, it was caused because I fitted the (banana shaped) quick link upside down. It's an easy mistake to make.

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                  Just let you guys know that a customer of ours did tried a new KMC x12 chain with a new RAceface 38T front chain ring and with proper chain tension and derailleur adjustments he was able to use all 12 speeds without any skipping. On the stock chain ring and chain he was getting skips on the 11T.

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                    I'm running a 40T out front now too. Bought a 126 link SRAM GX chain, removed 4 links, and it fits perfect. No skipping on any cogs, including the 11T. I can cruise to/from my trails at 23 MPH now with no issue. It also keeps me closer to the middle of the cassette while riding trails. It's really great, and I'd recommend it to anyone considering it.

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                    • Frankie Brennan
                      Frankie Brennan commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Do you think this same set up would work with a 38T front?

                    Hi I haven't received mine yet, but I'm wondering if there is a way to confirm the bike is ludicrous mode? I've been told that the "B" on the Bafang logo should be blackened with a sharpie. But I haven't seen this in any of the review videos (no blackened "B").

                    Other than Jerry rigging a watt meter to it, is there any other way to confirm that it is ludicrous mode?

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                    • craycray
                      craycray commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Well the reason I ask, is in a support ticket I asked to add the Ludicrous upgrade to a standard order (and paid the $300). I want to make sure that when the bikes comes I indeed got the upgrade and it wasn't missed by the technician.

                      I have only used a 250w bike before so no I don't know what the difference will "feel" like, since it will all be way more powerful than I'm used to.

                      Would it be so much to ask for the person adding ludicrous mode to my bike to note that somewhere? Even just an "L" stamped somewhere or a sticker or something would be re-assuring; just so I know that it wasn't missed.

                    • craycray
                      craycray commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I'm a big fan of "Pointing and calling" method of process management that Japanese train engineers use.


                    • paxtana
                      paxtana commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Having them mark it is outside the scope of customization we can offer but you can confirm with a wattmeter as previously shown if you want.

                      If it helps reassure you, I have never seen a single support case of anyone not getting ludicrous when they ordered it.

                    Has anyone experienced their rear shock leaking oil? I went out to the shed the other day to get the bike out and found oil leaking out of the rear shock onto the frame above where the motor mount is. I put in a ticket, but Luna says this is "normal" and just wipe it off. I only have ever had one other FS mountain bike (A GT Carbon Helion Pro) and it has never every leaked any oil from either the fork or shock. I know on my motorcycles that leaking oil is a sure sign a seal is bad.

                    Comment


                    • Robocam
                      Robocam commented
                      Editing a comment
                      A brand new shock should not leak any oil. A shock can leak oil if dirt gets into the seal, but that can be fixed by cleaning the seal.

                    I noticed there's new colors? Glossy Red and Glossy Black? When did this happen?

                    Comment


                    • paxtana
                      paxtana commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Earlier today I think.

                    The cable routing is a bit tricky but it's easy if you remove the motor. (an easy10min job) When I fitted my 12spd twist shifter I left the original cable outer in place & just replaced the inner. by removing the stock inner cable & pushing the new inner through the housing. (easy peasy)

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                      how much oil was leaking? my inclination is to think that's not OK

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