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Luna X1 advanced troubleshooting : battery and power wiring

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    I just noticed there is an option to upgrade to the 860c display for the X-1. Is this something current owner can order and add, or does it need to be programmed with the bike?

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      Yes, it was just added to a listing here.

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        will this display have a longer power wire or extension that I can move the display to the left side of the stem instead of having it on the right side. Also confirm it fits 35mm diameter bars?

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        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          By default that display has a short length of wire on the connector which maybe would put it a little longer than the stock display. I am working remote and don't know this for a fact somebody will have to buy one and provide details.

          It fits the X1 bars, if those are 35mm then yes it fits that.

        I will definitely buy one just for the sake of having the option to move it. If we can get an answer on it that would be awesome.

        The stock X1 bars are 31.8mm. when I switched to 35mm bars the stock display mounting band is too small (the screw that holds it together would no longer screw in) and I have been using double sided tape to attach it to the bars. So far that has worked, but.....

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          Originally posted by getRIGHT View Post

          will this display have a longer power wire or extension that I can move the display to the left side of the stem instead of having it on the right side. Also confirm it fits 35mm diameter bars?
          I doubt it fits 35mm bars since most bars are 31.8mm

          If it did fit 35mm bars that would be great
          People could just use rubber shims on thinner bars

          Another thing about some of these double mounts that span the stem is that the bars are not always flat after leaving the stem.
          The mounts are forced to angle up

          That's how it is on my BBSHD Fat bike with a 750c meter
          Fortunately the plastic on the 750c is very flexible and I was able to force the two mounts to sort of follow the bar angles
          It's not perfect but it works

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            Can someone please explain what it means in the listing by "removable selector"?

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            • paxtana
              paxtana commented
              Editing a comment
              The selected is connected by means of a connector, you could unplug it if you wanted to. I would not recommend doing so since you can't interact with the display though

            • 350XC-F
              350XC-F commented
              Editing a comment
              How would you turn the bike on and off if you disconnected it?

            • paxtana
              paxtana commented
              Editing a comment
              You wouldn't, that's my point. Like yeah you can remove it in case you needed to more easily rearrange stuff you had mounted to your handlebars, but it is not like something you would want to keep disconnected.

            So does it not fit a 35mm bar?

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              Are the connectors directly compatible with the X1 ? They sure do not appear to be so.

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                They are directly compatible. Shop didn't want to take new pictures because that's a lot of work just to show exact same thing with a different connector on the end so they put a note on listing instead

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                  Originally posted by paxtana View Post
                  They are directly compatible. Shop didn't want to take new pictures because that's a lot of work just to show exact same thing with a different connector on the end so they put a note on listing instead
                  Hey Paxtana
                  I posted on the 860C post Eric made to keep the questions about the 860C meter in one place
                  Can you check out my two questions in my post here?
                  Thanks
                  https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...e-to-seem-dead

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                    Is it still the case that the X1 ships without a quick release in the front axle?

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                    • K442
                      K442 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      AFAIK, the X1 has always had and still does have thru axles front and rear. Going to a QR would be a frame/fork change and I doubt that has happened. Plus I think given the power and bike weight, it would be pretty sketchy on QR skewers.

                    Originally posted by Damienhatty View Post
                    Is it still the case that the X1 ships without a quick release in the front axle?
                    The X1 has a big solid 15mm axle that you remove with an allen wrench

                    Quick release axles are sort of a thing of the past on most front forks

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                    • K442
                      K442 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Originally posted by EL34 View Post

                      The X1 has a big solid 15mm axle that you remove with an allen wrench...
                      Hummm...now I'll have to go back and look. I would have sworn mine is hollow Possibly that has changed over time?

                    I did not mean that the axle itself was a solid shaft.
                    I meant it is a very rigid and solid axle, not a skinny quick release rod

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                      Hey all,
                      I just received my bike yesterday and was able to charge battery and take it for a test run. It is an awesome bike! This is my first electric bike and high end Enduro. I do own a Onewheel and a Boosted board and build RC electric cars and planes so I have some knowledge of electrics, batteries and electric motors. However, despite racing BMX bikes in my youth I’m going to be learning on the go about electric bikes motors, hydraulic brakes, derailleur, shocks and all their adjustments and fine tuning so please bare with me here.
                      Everything looked great out of the box. No dings or scratches. Easy to put together. But I have a few issues I’m hoping you guys can help with.
                      1. The LCD display does not register MPH or Trip distance. Everything else is working on the readout (assist level, battery level etc). Could something be unplugged? Is the display faulty?
                      2. The rear rim seems to not be true. It looks like it spins lump sided just a bit. How do I fix this?
                      3. I’ve tried to be very gentle on the motor and drivetrain interaction. I start of in a low gear with the assist and progress through the gears like a motorcycle as I pick up speed. It seems that in the highest 2 gears there is a pop, or it could be the chain skipping as it’s hard to see and ride at same time. When peddling I feel it skip. I can’t tell if this is occurring internally in the motor or if its the derailleur a little out of wack. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
                      4. Both brakes are rubbing slightly but I assume that is something I will be able to adjust myself with the help of Youtube.
                      Like I said, I loved my first ride and can’t wait to get it out on the trails here in San Diego. I’d appreciate as quick a response as possible as I plan on spending the day working on the bike to get it dialed for a ride this afternoon and could use your guidance and expert knowledge.

                      Comment


                      • paxtana
                        paxtana commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Spoke magnets? Yes they are very common, as many bike computers etc use same thing, a bunch of retailers have them, I picked up a dozen on eBay for like a dollar each. What was your order# we can send you one if needed.

                      • bradleyland
                        bradleyland commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Hey, Frankie, welcome to the X-1 club! Just a couple of general recommendations.

                        1. Grab yourself a repair stand. It makes working on the bike much easier. I have the Park Tool PRS-25, but a buddy of mine got this Bikehand stand and loves it. It's a lot cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mech...dp/B00D9B7OKQ/

                        2. Read up on bicycle repair procedures. It can save you a small fortune. Park Tool's repair guides are fantastic: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

                        And some tips on your specific questions:

                        1. Sounds like Paxtana is going to send you a magnet, so you're good there.

                        2. Park Tool wheel truing guide is here: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...and-rim-truing. I true my wheels on the repair stand using a plastic ruler that I rest on the seat stay, rather than buying a wheel truing rig.

                        3. The popping in the higher gears happens when the chain skips. It's usually due to derailleur adjustment, but keep in mind that there is an upper limit to how much power bicycle components can take. The smaller cogs have fewer teeth to engage the rollers on the chain, so they're the most prone to skipping. The 12-speed SRAM driveline has incredible range, but it is very sensitive to indexing adjustment. Indexing adjustment is particularly sensitive. You adjust indexing by rotating the little barrel nut up on the shifter (the part on the handlebars). Twisting one direction adjusts toward an upshift, and the other toward a downshift. I won't try to describe the directions here, because it gets really confusing. What I do is put the bike on the repair stand and use the electric motor to turn the cranks while I twist the adjustment barrel on the shifter. As usual, Park Tool has a great guide: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...eur-adjustment

                        4. Brake adjustment is pretty simple, but can take a few tries and some trial and error. This is another place where a repair stand makes things super simple. Loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper on, squeeze the brake lever firmly, then tighten the bolts to no more than 10 N.m. Sometimes this procedure will get the calipers really close, but tightening the bolts causes them to shift slightly. In that case, loosen the bolts a bit, then tap the calper mounting tabs with the plastic handle of a screwdriver to nudge the caliper in the opposite direciton of the rubbing pad, then tighten. It's also not unusual for the disc to get bent slightly in transit. My rear rubbed as the wheel rotated, so I draped a rag over the disc and pulled it true by hand.

                      • Frankie Brennan
                        Frankie Brennan commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Great info Bradlyland! Appreciate it. I’m new to all this but love to learn and tool on things myself. I used to race BMX bikes as a kid and ride dirt bikes in my 20’s. I was into mountain biking in my late 20’s but not enough to get into bike repairs or maintenance. I do surf regularly, own a boosted electric skateboard, and a Onewheel so I’m excited to get back on a bike and find a new hobby and exercise! I also build electric RC cars and planes so I hope those skills and knowledge may help. . I’m trying to read up on cassettes, derailleurs, chainrings, hydrolic brakes, chains etc. A lot more than working on my old single speed BMX and now add a battery and motor! I have ordered a stand and have had some success doing adjustments but chain skips on lowest gear which I opened up. I’d like to switch out the front chainring and get a new chain like you did. I’m sure you included the info in here but if you have links to where to purchase would be appreciated.

                      Is there a way to tune the speedometer? Checking my speed using two other gps-based devices (which agree with each other) - shows that the reported speed on the bike is slightly faster than reality. I'll be traveling at 17/18mph (based on gps values) and the bike display will be reporting closer to 22/23/mph.

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