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    The "best" battery gauge is an amp-hour meter.

    Li-ion batteries like we use tend to have extremely high coulomb efficiency meaning the number of electrons put in comes very, very close to how many electrons come out. Over time the number will decrease but from day-to-day however in simplistic terms it's the number of electrons left in the battery from the charge cycle that gives you the best estimate of state-of-charge (SOC)

    If Li-ion are so extremely coulomb efficient why aren't they just as energy efficient? It takes more voltage to push the electrons in than the voltage they come out at. Since power = volts * amps and energy = power * time if the charge/discharge are at constant currents then the time will be nearly the same since the coulomb efficiency is so high so the difference will be less energy out than in because the voltage during discharge is lower than charge. There are other ways of looking at it but that's an easy way and it explains why measuring energy used while a very useful measurement isn't as good as amp-hours when it comes to measuring SOC.

    Not everyone has a amp-hour totalizer on their bike. You need to wire in a shunt in order to measure current and while not expensive they aren't free and usually don't come standard

    So if we don't have a good way to measure current and totalize it (integrate over time to get amp-hours) then we're left with only one thing left to use - voltage

    Now that curve in the prior post is BS. It's not so flat in the middle. A li-ion battery like we use has a discharge curve that looks more like this:

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    And we don't usually use the last 10-20% at all (almost no point to it since the power is dropping so fast and we get more voltage sag) so that the part of the curve we're really interested in has a fair amount of slope that's constant enough once we get past the first 10% or so.

    So if all we have is voltage we can get a reasonable idea where we are - especially once we get some time with a given battery and learn what the voltage display (whether bar graph, % or decimal voltage) means for our setup with regards to SOC.... then if we are relegated to using voltage should we choose bar graph, % or voltage? I say whatever gives us the most resolution as long as it covers the entire range of the battery. Typically we get 0.1V resolution with a voltmeter although some have 0.01V. On a percent gauge if we are going with a 52V battery and calling 58.8V 100% and have an LVCO of 43V at 0% then each percent = 0.158V and the voltmeter wins the resolution contest even if only one decimal. Bar graphs aren't even in the game.


    In summary, voltage is a rough method that when a user "learns" their machine can have a repeatable and pretty good idea of where they are in the discharge cycle. A voltmeter gives the best resolution and is more likely to accommodate the entire range of the battery. However an amp-hour meter is the best way if we want accuracy and a linear representation ...
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • AZguy
      AZguy commented
      Editing a comment
      Math? I don't do *any* math.... I just know what the different voltages mean to me for the different batteries I have... you learn what the voltage means like you learn when to shift, etc. It'd be like doing math to figure out when to shift or how much pressure to put on the handlebars to turn... don't need no math, you just learn

      E.g. with my little 48V batteries when they read 48V they're getting past half way, at 45V they're low, time to be close to home

      Then again I have an amp-hour meter



      You can learn a % gauge too (especially if it at least covers the whole range of voltages the battery will run at) even when the percent doesn't really mean anything except a translation of the voltage (that's all they ever are unless you measure amp-hours)... that was a point I was trying to make

    • ribeyesteaks
      ribeyesteaks commented
      Editing a comment
      I agree with Brian99. Voltage is not a rough method. It's garbage. No one has the time to go out and figure out what their discharge curves look and feel like on their particular LiION battery powered device. It's the dumbest thing on the planet to even suggest. And the worse thing is, you're likely shooting a moving target since the discharge curves get even worse over time as the battery degrades. It's why there are MUCH smarter people than anyone in this forum who have been tackling this issue for awhile use a battery percentage based on estimates and extrapolations built in software. No one is going to put an amp hour meter into a god damn smart phone. It's not even practical and costs too much money to make it worth while.

    • AZguy
      AZguy commented
      Editing a comment
      The cost of an amp-hour meter (coulomb counter) is a shunt feeding the microcontroller A/D and a few lines of code - don't be silly. Plenty of consumer products with battery management systems do this, e.g. most all modern laptops do.

      % meters on bikes are just voltmeters displaying voltage as % (linear conversion) anyway - might as well get voltage as it has more meaning even if all you are doing is just learning the SOC for a given battery

      But if someone prefers a voltmeter that has a readout in % instead of volts - good for them if that's what they have

      Me, I'm sticking with my amp-hours and voltage... I'm so accustomed to them on my bike I know exactly what's going on with whichever battery I'm using for that ride - I've got five or six batteries that behave a bit differently so for me there's far more power with the numbers... but that's just me

      YMMV

      Ride on

    Originally posted by ribeyesteaks View Post
    This is why you apply a filter to extrapolate a percentage from the discharge curve.
    No one knows how much juice is left based on a voltage reading.
    All you need to know is that you should not discharge the battery below a certain voltage

    You don't need any complicated formulas

    Comment


      Originally posted by tpellaton View Post
      Howdy all. Newbe here. I am interested in buying an X1 and have been reading the posts to get a feel for the bike from all of you. I am conflicted. Currently I have 2 giant stance bikes, the wife's bike has a bbs02 and mine has a BBSHD both of which I custom programmed. The Giant stance seems to be an OK bike and the battery fits well on the downtube. Happy with both bikes and mine has many upgrades. We are seniors and do not ride crazy hard like all the younger people.

      My bike which is a 2015 giant stance has about 8000 miles on it and the frame, swing arm, shocks, forks, etc are near worn out, however I am able to keep it going for now. I have always treated toys like this roughly, but not so much now that I am older. My best options may be to replace the Stance (if they ever become available from Giant) or buy an X1 when they become available. After reading the many great posts here, I am concerned about the reliability of the X1 as well as parts and battery availability.

      Have many of you here made the transition from a custom bike with a BBSHD to X1? Regrets? Please tell me all about your experiences if you have. Much appreciated.

      From what I have read it would be great to have an X1 with a BBSHD cleanly tucked into it. I am also concerned with the lack of programming of the X1. My custom programs for the BBS are simply even spaced power increments for predicable easy use with some very low power options for flat rides. We also like the shift stall sensor and brake cutoff safety switches. We do use the throttle sparingly mostly for starts and slow speed navigation through tricky terrain trying to minimize pedal strikes and potential falls.

      Thanks for any feedback.

      Thanks for all the good Feedback on the X1 purchase upgrade. My wife rode a girlfriends Bulls with the brose motor a few weeks ago, then told me it was time to get rid of her pogo stick bafang converted Giant Stance. Gotta love her for making this upgrade decision so much easier.

      So I ordered two medium X1's, non ludi with silent gear. So glad they suddenly became available! Must have been destiny. The claim is for shipping in early July. Hope it is sooner since they already have my money. We have had the converted Giants since 2015. I guess it is time to take a bold leap into the ebike future as these ebikes and mountain bikes in general have really had a lot of evolution in just a few years. From reading the many X1 posts in this forum I am impressed that Luna has listened to you all and practiced some continuous improvement for this product. Specifically, I saw a post from the moderator stating that all new non- ludi X1's will be shipped with the 14.6 firmware update and the website says new bikes will have the shorter crank arms and a 38t front sprocket. Very cool. I see that replacement batteries are also available and am thinking about buying one spare while they are still available. Also looking forward to a solid frame and much improved suspension. My Giant bike frame, fork and swing arm especially flexes so much in a hard turn that you can hear the tires rubbing.

      I also appreciate reading about all the maintenance experiences. I will definitely tighten and loctite all the frame/ pedal fasteners put a strap around the battery, check seat post cable, etc. I have had to find broken frame parts/ fasteners for my Giant. What a nightmare and Giants are sold in stores everywhere.

      Comment


        X-1 Medium non ludicrous for sale in so cal 92675. It’s like new with very low miles. 40 tooth chainring, 860c display, short crank arms, 14.6 programming and all of the original parts. Why wait, ride now.and save the sales tax. Local pickup only. $3300 obo.

        Comment


        Originally posted by jjdicecco View Post
        Click image for larger version

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        I'm looking for the horst link for the rear shock...This is the bracket/link that holds the rear shock(its the linkage that holds the circled bolt)...I am going to have to drill the bolt out to remove this bolt and want this part just in case it gets destroyed. please anyone that can guide me in the right direction or have one they are willing to sell.
        I'm having similar issues with my Luna X1 as other users, need to find a replacement for this horst bolt. It fell off the bike after transporting it inside my car, likely my fault due to lack of maintenance. Not sure where to source this, in the meantime my bike is useless. Please help!

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          Email support with the pic and order#, can probably help out via special order

        • KTMracer63
          KTMracer63 commented
          Editing a comment
          might invest in a torque wrench (digital bikemaster) and loctite...
          don't know what I'd do without these....https://bikemaster.com/bikemaster-di...ch-152148.html
          $85 on ebay....

        • jjdicecco
          jjdicecco commented
          Editing a comment
          Luna can definitely help you with this

        Hey guys, newb here, waiting on delivery of an X1 <edit: Ludi version>. CAN'T wait to get it. Wondering what are popular upgrades and tools I might consider getting. Didn't see a sticky or FAQ on it, so feel free to point me to one if it already exists. I will be doing mellow single track rides, beginner 60 yr old rider. Been riding dirt bikes for years, have a Husky FE 350 and an Alta MXR (electric dirt bike - I LOVE my Alta, Lol).

        So far I am thinking:

        Seat: WTB Volt or WTB Silverado seat.
        Pedals: One Up Components Composite pedals.
        Dropper post: will see how the stock one does, but if I don't like it, thinking one of the PNW Components droppers.
        Brake pads: will see what the stock ones are like, but if they need changing am going with MTX Braking Gold label pads.

        Tools:
        Don't know what I'll need, have no bicycle tools at all.
        Spoke wrench.
        1/4" torque wrench: I have one so will have to double check the values on the bike once it gets here to see if mine will work.
        Work stand: what's a good stand capable of holding the heavier X1?
        Any other bicycle specific tools I will need?

        Assembly and pre-first ride checks:
        14.6 Firmware loaded? I asked Luna if they could load it, they said they may be able to, no guarantees.
        Check and torque/tighten all bolts, nuts, spokes. Loctite upper and lower/rear suspension pivot suspension pivot. Crank arm bolts.
        Check battery screws, battery is tight?
        Adjust dropper post assembly (if needed) as per: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xpxFNBE-gI
        Check suspension (air pressure in shock too).
        Grease headstock bearings, linkage?

        Any other parts, tools, and maintenance you guys would suggest? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks. -Ed

        Comment


        • joegold100
          joegold100 commented
          Editing a comment
          I've had my X1 for a couple of months and I'm also awaiting delivery of a second X1 for my wife in July. Here are some items worth mentioning:

          - TIRES: The tires that the bike comes don't balance right. No matter how true your wheel is they will always wobble and make the rim appear as bent. This is confirmed by Luna support. I can't tell you how many people who ride behind me always tell me I need to get my rear rim trued. But, it has been trued twice since I got it (as well as the front twice too) and it still looks bad. In addition, I also converted both front and back to tubeless. The tires are tubeless ready but you will need to remove the tube, add new valve stems and fill them up with sealant. This a messy job and I chose to have a local bike shop do it for me. To convert both tires, plus purchase new stems, and true the rims again the cost was about $75.

          FRONT THRU AXLE - The front axle on the bike requires you use a hex bit and torque wrench to remove and replace. This is a pain in the ass if you need to repair on the trail or remove the tire quickly for other reasons like cleaning or travel. The rear rim has a quick release axle but the front does not. I replaced mine with the same brand but the quick release version (after stripping mine). The difference in price is only $4 for the quick release so I'm not sure why Luna did not just put quick releases on the front too. Here is the part if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W1B7EVY...roduct_details

          BATTERY RATTLE ISSUE: A common problem with the X1 is that the battery does not sit tightly in the frame. When you ride it will rattle and as some users report, it can either fall completely out or move and arc. There is a velcro fix and I had a slightly different solution. Click on my profile. I did a posts/videos on this issue/solution as well as other things I mentioned in this response.

          - WATER BOTTLE CAGE: The bike has no predrilled holes for a water bottle cage. Further, there is no room to put a cage in between the lower and top bars like other competing EMTB's have. Because this is an Enduro bike, to me, this is a big design flaw of X1. Carrying a water bottle or water bladder in a bag is a pain in the neck and not convenient (especially on short rides). The only places to strap a water bottle cage on the X1 are the seat post (exposes the water bottle to a lot of dirt kicking up from rear tire) or strapping one to the top bar. I chose to strap mine to the top bar because its cleaner and easier to reach your water bottle without stopping. I ordered and tried several cages and the one that fits best and matches the bike best is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . This cage fits good over the wide bar, and I haven't had a bottle fall out yet. If you purchase this cage you will also need a 24oz water bottle because a standard 28 oz will get in the way when mounted on the top bar.

          - TOOLS/SUPPLIES: Like you, I come from long history of ATV and dirt bike riding. With this bike, I found that most of my existing tools which I used for repair and maintenance of dirt bikes, or the tools I had for my other pedal only bikes were either too large or not precision enough for my X1. There is an X1 tool kit from Luna that has everything you need which they now sell separately but has been out of stock. If you can't order the kit from Luna, locate it on their product page and get the list of tools that are in there... I've had to purchase all new metric hex wrenches, t-shaped hex wrenches and matching torque bits in small sizes, multi-tool to keep with me when riding, bike chain scrubber brush, a good precision 20-200 lb torque wrench, Presta valve pressure gauge and adapters for air compressor (because i changed the tire valves), 5 Pieces Spoke Tool Kit (the spokes nuts are wider than standard cheap wrenches), maintenance bike stand (these are expensive), bike tire levers (to remove and reinstall tire on rim), a decent brush to clean the bike with,
          LIGHTS: You will need a good, bright, front light for night traveling (I'm using one from my pedal MTB still because I haven't found one that mounts right and is not either in the way or partially blocked by all the cables on the front of the bike). If you are going to ride on the road a bunch, you will should invest in a good tail light. I recommend the Meilan X5 Smart Light with laser (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

          - PHONE MOUNT: If you want to navigate through trail systems with GPS you will need a mount for your phone. I tried several and settled on a Quadlock system. This requires the mount and special case for your phone model. These two are expensive.

          - FIRMWARE UPGRADE: You should get the bike and try it before you make that update. I found someone locally who had the update tool and changed mine and hated it. I changed it back a couple of days later. I firmly (no phun intended) believe that Luna got it right with firmware they ship. The firmware update that others are testing will pretty much only give you one power level. It also kills that battery much faster in my experience.. If you ride dirt bikes, you will appreciate being able to move through different power levels where you can feel the difference. I would also recommend that you learn to pedal the bike without any PAS so you can be strong enough to pedal a 55 lb bike when/if your battery runs out which happened to me multiple times on 30+ mile runs. I recently did a 50 mile run and had to pedal the bike for the last 14 miles without any power. However, because I ride a lot in PAS 0 and 1 (out of 5 levels of PAS) I was conditioned to make it back with no stress and in 98 degree desert heat. Range anxiety is real and with that beta firmware you wont have much option to adjust your power level if you need to conserve for long rides. I'm sure a ton of people will jump on my shit but I still feel Luna got it right with the firmware they tweaked specifically for this bike and the majority of riders needs.

          - CHECKING & TIGHTENING BOLTS : Same as everyone else reports... numerous bolts were not tight when I got the bike, and many came loose and kept coming loose during hard trail riding. The first test ride I took on a moderate trail the front headset came loose around a turn and I was thrown over the bars. After that, I put lock tight on everything. I now check several bolts just about every time I'm going on a long or hard ride.

          - LUBRICATION: Get Dry lube and Tri-flow oil. My bike was really noisy when I first got it. The battery rattle issue was 75% of the noise but I found that the rear suspension was exceptionally noisy too and needs lubrication every couple of weeks. After fixing the battery and suspension noise, I was still having a lot of creaking noise from the front that I could not pin down. After Googling around I found that it was the front spokes! Where the spokes cross over each other and touch, I sprayed TriFlow oil on a rag and lubed the spokes and I had no more bike sounds.


          Thats all I can think of for now. Good luck!

        • Brian99
          Brian99 commented
          Editing a comment
          I got and like this seat: Ergon - SM E-Mountain Core Prime Men's Ergonomic Comfort Bicycle Saddle
          A hidden rock ruined the stock X1 pedal and got these: https://lunacycle.com/cnc-luna-perfect-pedals/ They are sticky, using my old SAS shoes. Way better than the stock pedals (which I thought were good).
          For the battery rattle (and other protection), I love mastic. I put a couple of pieces in the battery well to make up the space, and I put a little grease on the side touching the battery so that I don't have to pry it out. It works perfectly.
          The Venzo torque set is most of the tools that I needed. https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Bicycle...00713812&psc=1
          And their shock pump.
          I got the Feedback sports pro elite stand rated at 85 lbs. It's just barely enough. I cannot just rotate the bike at any angle with this thing, but it works for what I need.
          Dropper may be a bit short on the travel, but works for me.

          I am only using plant-based lubricants from WPL and this on my chain: https://www.amazon.com/mountainFLOW-.../dp/B08J4HLHYC
          I don't buy gasoline, nor use FFs or PTFE for my bike maintenance.

          I think Luna got the bolt-tightening and lock-tite problems fixed now.

        • F451
          F451 commented
          Editing a comment
          Hey guys, thanks so much for the detailed responses! Its a huge help, really appreciate it. -Ed

        Luna has confirmed (several times) that the new non-Ludi X1 comes with 14.6 programming. Looking forward to receiving mine in the coming weeks.

        Comment


          Comment


            I'm a recent X1 owner, bought used last week. I noticed that the front thru-axle needs an allen wrench to remove. Any reason not to install one with a lever instead?

            Comment


            • KTMracer63
              KTMracer63 commented
              Editing a comment
              Call a Rockshox dealer and ask...The Lost Co. is a good place for tech help on Yari/Lyrik/Zeb...the Techs now their stuff there.
              Good bet is Luna has nothing to do with Rockshox aftermarket parts.

            • joegold100
              joegold100 commented
              Editing a comment
              I thought this was weird too! The same brand axle with the quick release is only $4 more than the one with the hex bolt. I ended up stripping mine (made a video about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XbGyKFRc6w ) then I ordered a quick release from Amazon. Here is the same axle but with the quick release lever: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I also see that they are now about $16 cheaper on eBay and even Walmart online has it $15 cheaper). I changed mine and the quick release is awesome!

            I've recently acquired an X1, but the display (860c) doesn't measure mileage correctly. It is set to 28" tires (which I can't change). I did a ~5.5 mile trip, and the trip meter shows over 9 miles. Is this a known issue?

            Comment


            • joegold100
              joegold100 commented
              Editing a comment
              I made a post about this here: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-fast-by-2-mph

              But yes, the millage is off by about 2 miles on 30 miles as EL34 stated and so is the speedometer is 2 miles per hour fast. This is most noticeable when you compare speed and millage with GPS tracking apps which are pretty accurate.

            • K442
              K442 commented
              Editing a comment
              Speedo / odo is definitely known to be off. The 2mi per 30 mi (or about 7%) seems to be within reason of what is typically reported. The 9 miles in a 5.5 mile trip seems way off. So possibly something with the magnet tripping the sensor much more than it should, or possibly a miles / kilometers setting? 5.5 miles = 8.85km

            • Brian99
              Brian99 commented
              Editing a comment
              That may have been a mistake at the factory. My v14.6 is set to 27.5" wheels and I can enter the setup menu and change that if I wanted to, as I recall. You need the code to enter; it's posted somewhere like in a Luna video.

            Originally posted by Dot-11 View Post
            I've recently acquired an X1, but the display (860c) doesn't measure mileage correctly. It is set to 28" tires (which I can't change). I did a ~5.5 mile trip, and the trip meter shows over 9 miles. Is this a known issue?
            Yep, the X1 meters cannot be set for a correct wheel circumference or diameter.
            My 860C is set for 27.5, not 28 inch

            But, I have not found the mileage to be off as much as you are reporting.
            I would say on mine, it is only a couple miles off after 30+ miles

            You can see some of my ride reports in my X1 post here
            I just received my Luna X1 ebike on Holloween :) It's an amazing bike and the price point is awesome My Luna X1 weighs 55 pounds. Not too bad at all for an Ebike. My carbon fat bike with a BBSHD weighs 58.5 pounds The first time I pulled the X1 front wheel out of the shipping box, I was taken back by how heavy the wheel was.



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              Originally posted by EL34 View Post

              Yep, the X1 meters cannot be set for a correct wheel circumference or diameter.
              My 860C is set for 27.5, not 28 inch
              Did you have to load another firmware version to get that setting? On mine, the 28 inch wheel size is one of the locked settings. I haven't looked at the firmware modification process yet.

              Comment


              Originally posted by Dot-11 View Post

              Did you have to load another firmware version to get that setting? On mine, the 28 inch wheel size is one of the locked settings. I haven't looked at the firmware modification process yet.
              No, my X1 is one of the first ones
              It has 14.4 firmware

              Comment


                joegold100

                GPS is not that accurate either unless you are in a flat place and the satellites are spread out very wide.
                Out west, I had horizon to horizon satellites and I got about 10 feet of accuracy

                Here in the mountains of NC, GPS is always off on the low side

                It cuts corners on trails and you may be down in a cove and it only sees overhead satellites
                Also, the complete tree canopy is not good for reception
                The triangulation is not that good.

                That's why I always rag on my buddies when they compare Strava KOM records and believe they are accurate.

                Comment


                • joegold100
                  joegold100 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  From everything I read online GPS is very accurate. In fact, there is a really good article about that here: https://www.theglobeandmail.com/glob...rticle4348596/

                  It does seem to verify your statement about clean line of site to the satellite. However, for my testing I was in a good area. In addition, I've compared the GPS speed listed on the same app to my cars speedometer and it is nearly identical.

                  More importantly, the reason I brought this up goes back to another post where I mentioned that having the speed showing on a huge color display as it does on the X1 was ridiculous and useless. You will never need to know how fast you are going up or down a trail. So my point is, if the speedometer is not accurate, and it's not needed for the bikes intended purpose of trail riding, why is the speed shown so big on the color display?

                • AZguy
                  AZguy commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Consumer units are generally very good in straight lines when there are no satellite drops or multipath, but if not straight they'll read slower and they are susceptible to multipath - phones have poor antennas so don't do well with speed and accuracy in poor conditions

                  Industrial quality units can be exceptionally accurate, far more immune to multipath and turns don't bother them much at all

                  And like mentioned there are consumer GPS that can couple to wheel speed and do a really good job

                Originally posted by EL34 View Post
                joegold100

                GPS is not that accurate either unless you are in a flat place and the satellites are spread out very wide.
                Out west, I had horizon to horizon satellites and I got about 10 feet of accuracy

                Here in the mountains of NC, GPS is always off on the low side

                It cuts corners on trails and you may be down in a cove and it only sees overhead satellites
                Also, the complete tree canopy is not good for reception
                The triangulation is not that good.

                That's why I always rag on my buddies when they compare Strava KOM records and believe they are accurate.
                An issue you seem to be alluding to is when moving fast is that most GPS sample only once per second and just take the straight line distance between two points and when in tight turns that distance can be significantly less than the chord distance

                Some GPS's have the ability to take a wheel sensor and constantly slowly calibrate the wheel circumference against the GPS and these are usually *very* accurate for both speed and odometer... petty much gold standard on a bike...

                I've also got some extremely high performance professional receivers that sample at 50 times a second and track >1000 signals on multiple frequency bands with high performance differential correction that once converged are usually better than 10cm real-time accuracy (even under canopy, etc.) - they tend to come very close to the calibrated wheel sensor consumer units

                Comment

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