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Luna Z1 Manual

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  • Sebz
    How to replace the main harness.

    The procedure is the same as Luna X2 bike, the key difference is the motor removal and motor connectors

    how to remove the Ultra motor :

    How to fish the main harness in the frame :

    Last edited by Sebz; 08-21-2023, 05:43 PM.

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  • Sebz
    Add-ons / Upgrades:
    Replacing the rear shock

    If you want to urgrade the rear shock from a Rock shox to another RockShox you wont need to changes the spacers/bushing as long as you get the correct lenght and stroke (210mm x 55mm)

    If you want to upgrade from the DNM shock to a RockShox or DVO, Fox. Ohlins and such, then you will need two (2) set of spacers

    The front will require a 32mm spacer and the rear will require a 16mm spacers, the bolts are M8 (industry standard).

    Note you cannot use trunnion type shock on this frame.

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    Now that you know the bolt size (M8) and the width of the frame you need to figure out the diameter of the eyelet and the width and that will depend on the brand of shock you use. Most big brands are cross compatible (like Fox and Rockshox) which are 0.5" width (12.85mm) so you don't really need to check this. For more info on the types you can read some more, click this link

    Rockshock/ Fox, width of the shock eyelet is 0.5", but it's a pretty standard size so you just need to find 32 X 8 mm mounting kit ( yes they used metric hole and english width lol). 16 X 8 mm mounting kit. Note: Depending on the brand or store, it could be labeled as 32xm8, 8mm x 32, or m8x32, but they all mean the same thing

    Often just searching for: "RockShox (or Fox) Rear Shock Mount 8 x 32.0 OR 8x16" will lead you to the right part you need.

    These are 2 links we found on the web for mounting a Rockshox Monarch shock to an X2, (we have no affiliation with this store)

    Front kit: RockShox Rear Shock Mounting Hardware - 3-Piece, 1/2", 8 x 32.0
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    Rear kit RockShox Rear Shock Mounting Hardware - 3-Piece, 1/2", 8 x 16.0

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    If unsure then best would be to go to your local ebike shop for help, they can order the right part along with the right shock you need :)​
    Last edited by Sebz; 12-01-2022, 03:38 PM.

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  • Sebz
    Mechanical issues

    Dropper seat post issues:

    Loose head set :

    Squeaking suspension :

    Brake issues:

    Spreading the pads

    Letting air out (AKA burping)

    Flushing out the air (AKA purging air)

    Last edited by Sebz; 05-09-2022, 01:27 PM.

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  • Sebz
    Motor Removal:

    Last edited by Sebz; 01-19-2022, 07:18 PM.

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  • Sebz
    Electrical troubleshooting part 2:

    This next part is for the bikes shipped before June 1st 2022, all bikes shipped after that do not have the chrome switch hooked up. So best would be to perform the bypass and then measure the voltage directly... but if you're on a rush you continue with the voltage measurement

    If you have a low voltage coming from the battery after measuring it like step#2 (anything under 40V down to 0V) then you need to test the power switch:

    How the switch works:

    So the way to fix this is to bypass the whole chrome switch assembly inside the battery

    Why would you bypass it?

    So what is happening is that you are loosing power sometimes for 10 milliseconds or less and that will just leave you with a lit up display and dead motor, or and error 25 or 30, depending on the voltage drop it ca recover itself or just stay dead. But if the fault is over 10 milliseconds, the voltage will have gone too low and the processor in the controller will be dead and will need a reset, the reset can be that you have to power up the system again, but sometimes you will have to manually remove the battery and insert it again (or a quick charge of a few seconds) sometimes moving the bike and playing with the chrome switch can work too.

    So the reason for this is if the spring pins on the battery are sticking (the 2 round pins on the battery cradle) or if the battery is moving in the frame and the vibration makes the pin loose contact while riding or that the chrome switch is having false contacts.

    So the fix for this is to bypass the whole thing and make the battery always on like most batteries (sur-Ron is one good example, the Luna Fixed, luna galaxy bike, all the luna wolf and direwolfs). As of June 1st all the X2's and Z1 will have a bypassed switch , it will still be there but non-functionning. Since you need to power up the system using the handlebar mounted power button and have to power it down using the same button there is no need for the chrome switch it was redundant.

    How do you bypass the switch?

    2 ways, mine or the shop mechanic.. we have 2 videos on that:

    it's really a matter of minutes.. and you can use a wire crimp that don't need to skin the wires.. you just cut the 2 wires slip the connector in and crimp it with any plier like I did on my video.. it's simpler and also makes a better connection. This is what I used.

    White phone crimps, click here

    If you need to replace the frame mounted charge port:

    Last edited by Sebz; 08-04-2022, 07:55 AM.

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  • Sebz
    Electrical troubleshooting

    Motor/display does not power up?

    Step 1 Battery bypass:

    You can bypass the battery with the charger, so make sure that the battery is inside the frame, then power the battery by pressing the side chrome switch, plug the charger into the wall outlet then on the frame charge port. Once you have the charger plugged in (either charging or not depending on the state of charge) try to power the display. If it does not power up by pressing the OFF/OFF button then you likely have a wiring or controller issue. Please continue with #2, you could skip Forum as we know it's not the chrome switch or the battery (only true if the charger does work!) but you are already removing the motor so does not hurt to test it.

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    Step 2 Measuring the voltage from the battery.

    The Z1 (same as X2) is different than a X1 or a normal generic battery as the battery is turned off once you get it out of the frame, there are not gauge or switch to turn it on. Please watch this video, the Z1 differs from the x2 because you have to drop the motor off the bike to access the wiring, so look down to motor removal section then measure the voltage.

    FOR BIKES SHIPPED AFTER JUNE 1st: The chrome switch is deactivated so you can measure the voltage directly on the battery.

    If you don't get a normal voltage from the XT60 with the chrome switch pushed ON, either 0V, 20V, 30V or just a much lower voltage compared to what you measured when you plugged in the charger, then scroll down below to the advanced toubleshooting page where we would test the power switch.

    IF you do have the correct voltage then go to sep General

    Step #3

    Remove the motor and check the connections.

    Click here to see the video on how to remove the motor.

    Step #4

    Test the harness, bypass the display and such.

    The Ultra motor is pretty much like a BBSHd motor, it uses the same displays, throttle and communication protocol, the main difference is the motor connections.

    Please click this link and follow the extensive BBSHD troubleshooting guide starting at step 2
    Last edited by Sebz; 02-14-2023, 02:32 PM.

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  • Sebz
    Maintenance section

    We have a bunch of cool videos on our Luna Cycle Repair and Maintenance Youtube channel, We cover suspension, brakes, derailleurs, hubs/freehubs adjustment, tips and trick Click here to be redirected to YouTube

    IF you don't feel like going through our videos you can just check this segment, it covers, how to wash the bike and take care of the suspension pivots:

    Replacement brake pads
    Kool Stop makes good pads for the DNM version of this bike (which typically use Dominion brakes, if yours do not this may not apply)
    Link to replacement pads

    Even if you seal the motor it would never be enough, that applies to all motors. If you seal up the motor (taking it apart, adding RTV gasket maker and such) the motor will still get hot and when you dip it in water it will cool down fast, and the air will do the same inside. When the air gets hot it expands, it creates pressure inside the motor and air will find its way out as it's not a pressurized canister and then when the air cool down rapidly the air molecule will get smaller and that creates a vacuum. That vacuum will suck air in and will pull humidity and water in the motor VIA the weakest point in the motor which is the bearings and the gaskets. So you will still end up with humidity and water inside eventually. So best way to prevent that is to avoid dipping the motor into water! The only way to have a waterproof motor would be to coat the winding with varnish and also coat the controller in conformal coating and use grease that does not mix with water.
    During cold weather riding (or simply in heavy rains) this effect can happen without even dipping the motor, it can happen because snow will get on top of the motor and melt with the warm motor and then cool down again and will suck water in.

    So what can you do? for starters if you must ride near water/snow and suck best would be to grease the outer bearings so no water will get sucked through them, make sure that the controller is bolted to the motor. Then once in a while open up the motor and clean it and grease it, that will help quite a lot . We have videos in this section (click here)

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    Here at Luna we believe in dielectric grease, you should use it on exposed contacts like the 4 main power terminals of the battery and the cradle and on the XT60, no need for a lot, just a thin layer is enough! The main harness connection are already watertight so if you must add, you can just put it on the outer rim so it will seal it up just fine, if some got on the pins it's fine, no worries there! Maybe just don't pack the inside full of it as it will make a mess , and since it's already watertight it will create pressure inside and it make is easier to disconnect and you don't want that ... and likely end up with a bad connection as the connector becomes looser over time.

    Support notes: If we shipped your bike before June 1st 2022, and haven't done the chrome switch bypass yet, please contact us at If you put dielectric grease on the 2 round pins on the cradle you will get shutdowns while riding.
    Last edited by Sebz; 07-07-2022, 12:29 PM.

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  • Sebz
    Setup your bike

    UPDATE: Bikes shipped after June 1st 2022 will no longer have the chrome switch connected to the battery. The only power button is the display control pad.

    If you want to know more you can click this link to see the video:


    Where are the wheel spacers and where are the keys.
    Please don't loose your keys as we don't have a set of keys for the thousands of different lock barrel there is, if you loose them you will have to take the bike to a locksmith so he can re-key the lock.

    NOTE: In the videos below, I used a Luna X2 bike, but your Z1 is similar.... except a few things like the cranks arms.. they don't have pinch bolts so you do need to tighten the crank arm bolts really tight like 30-40nm and will also need blue loctite if you take them out again.

    Make sure to watch the videos carefully as we will not replace parts that you broke during the install/setup.

    How to adjust the dropper seat post
    I'm putting this one high on the list so you take a look at it before trying to pull on it.

    How to install the handlebar and stem

    How to fix your top cap if it's loose

    Tip on how to install the pedals

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    How to put the front wheel

    The spacers are the same on each side on the first version in 2021, BUT are different on the 2022 version . Don't remove the caliper black spacer until you are ready to put the front wheel in. The block is wider than the rotor so the wheel will fit in. If it does not fit that is because you depressed the lever before putting the wheel in. In this case you will have to spread the pads (Go to the mechanical troubleshooting for this procedure).

    How to install the wheel spacers on the other version

    Charging procedure:

    Check up

    After you put the front wheel on and adjusted the stem and put on the handle bars you still need to go over a few things before hitting the trails.

    I say it in the video but please make sure that the derailleur is adjusted correctly and that the derailleur hanger is straight. The bike did travel all around the globe so it's normal that the box was banged a little, there is protection for the derailleur but the hanger could be bent a little.. fixing it before your first ride is simple, but not after the derailleur miss shifts and and you end up damaging something.

    Also VERY important, please do not pull on the dropper, if the dropper wont go up then forcing it will result in a broken dropper and that is not covered under warranty, So if you want to extend it a little more please click this link and watch the videos

    Check the headset and top cap

    How to adjust the derailleur hanger

    This is the simple way, it's not perfect but will work, if you do need it perfect your local bike shop does have a tool to align it better!


    What tools you need to setup your bike and to maintain it

    Display manual

    Here is a manual on how to use the M600 dashboard, just click on this link to open the manual. Thank you Brad for making it!

    How to adjust/setup your Suspension

    For DNM users you can use this video it explains everything you need to know

    ---------For the rear shock--------------------------------------- For the front fork which is a coil sprung model--------

    For Rockshox this video covers the shock and fork

    Display manual

    Click here for the manual
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Sebz; 07-07-2022, 12:47 PM.

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  • Sebz
    Specs and General info:
    • Shifting: Take care not to shift under load, especially if going up steep hills, as this can be hard on your cassette and chain. Let off the throttle, or the PAS, then shift.

      Display: It uses UART communication so it will not work with any M600 / or Canbuss Ultra series display it will only work with UART Displays (BBSHD /BBS02).

      There is a key to lock/unlock the battery from the frame. The position of the key does NOT affect power. Please note that we do not currently have spare keys so take care not to lose the key. We recommend to store the key at home in a safe place. Without the key you can not remove the battery.
      Please be careful when turning the key. It may make it drop out without much warning once you have turned the key, so be prepared for that by holding the battery as you turn the key.

      The battery is charged with a standard barrel. This means you can use something like the solderless barrel in conjunction with 48v Advanced Charger or 48v Mini to charge the bike if preferred over the included charger.

      This bike has a temp sensor and high temp cutoff to prevent damage to the motor/controller.

      The chainring of this bike is a standard 5 bolt 130 BCD Narrow-Wide chainringAs such there are many aftermarket rings available for it if you want to go with a larger chainring, So make sure to double check the clearance between the chainstay and the ring when changing sizes! You can change the chainring without removing the chainring spider.
    • Tapered steerer, 1.125 x 1.5 headset
    • Headset ZS44 and ZS56 (zero stack)
    • 31.8mm on the bars, with a length about 32"
    • Clamp on the stem is 31.8mmm and stem is about 50mm long.
    • Seatpost diameter 31.6mm
    • Head tube angle 66 degrees
    • Front fork travel (W/Rockshox) 160mm
    • Rear wheel travel (W/Rockshox) 140mm (about 5.5")
    • Brakes are SRAM G2 R , quad piston (Rockshox edition only)
    • Front rotor Sram centerline 200mm 6 bolts (Rockshox edition only)
    • Rear Rotor Sram centerline 180mm 6 bolts (Rockshox edition only)
    • Sram Eagle SX 12 speed cassette (standard HG driver, not the XD from SRAM)
    • Rockshox Deluxe Select+ 210mm x 55mm in Rear
    • Rockshox Debonair Yari 160mm
    • Some bikes comes with 150mm crank arms, some 175mm, you cannot pick or exchange
    • crank arm cap is M15x1.0 pitch head is 24.5mm (if you ever needs to replace it and we're out of stock)
    • 27.5" setup: 2.8" tires and 39mm wide rims (outer width) 33.80 inner width
    • 29er setup: 2.6" tires and 34mm wire rims (outer width)
    • 15mm 110mm front tru-axle
    • 12mmX148 boost rear dropout (axle is 174mm long and 1.5 thread pitch) click the thumbnail to see a closeup of the model

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    Last edited by Sebz; 02-28-2023, 12:07 PM.

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  • Sebz
    started a topic Luna Z1 Manual

    Luna Z1 Manual

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    Table of content:

    Specs and general info



    Electrical Troubleshooting

    Mechanical troubleshooting

    Motor uninstall/install

    Mods / upgrades

    How to replace the main harness
    Last edited by Sebz; 08-21-2023, 05:43 PM.