Luna Fixed Ebike Manual

[Sebz]

Table of content:

Specs and general info

Unboxing and setup

Maintenance

Troubleshooting

Motor & Controller uninstall/install

Mods / upgrades

Open discussion thread

[Sebz]

• 22T Gates CDX rear sprocket, Surefit 3-Lobe
• 55T Gates CDX front sprocket 104 BCD
• 120T Gates CDX Belt
• Only 39 pounds
• Fixie minimalist frame style, aluminum 6061
• 700x35C tires (Kenda tires, threaded) 50-85PSI, 21.4mm outer rim width
• Internally routed wires and cables
• Torque sensing Bofeilli 500W Mid Drive
• 36V 7AH battery (either Sanyo -Panasonic GA cells or LG MJ1) hidden in the downtube
• 36V 2 amp charger
• Shimano NEXUS 3 speed SG-3D55 Internal Geared Hub
• Tektro full hydraulic brakes ( F10BS Tektro pads)
• Front 160mm 6 bolts rotor
• Rear 160mm centerlock rotor
• Axle bolts: M10 with 1.0 pitch
• Dropout width 100mm and 135mm for front and rear respectively
• Head tube size 42 top / 52 bottom- Steerer tube 28.6mm top / 40 mm bottom - 45deg integrated bearing

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UNBOXING / SETUP /HOW TO USE

How to adjust the rear wheel tensioner

How to use the display :

Support notes:
Make sure to inflate the tires and check the gears and belt tension before you go out. make sure both brakes are working fine and that they are free of grease (do not touch the disks with your fingers, the natural oils on your fingers is enough to contaminate the the pads.

If this is your first IGH (internal geared hub) then you should know that you cannot change gears while pedaling, you can change gear at rest or when you coast. It's simple you just have to a quick second stop pushing on the pedals and shift, you don't need to completely stop pedaling , only need to stop pushing hard on the pedals while shifting.

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MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR

This is a simple bike and does not require a lot of maintenance., just check the belt tension and adjust the IGH

How to adjust the internal geared hub (IGH)

How to remove the belt to change a flat

How to adjust the belt tension, Gates carbon drives has an app (android and IOS) to tune the belt to the right tension (on this bike best is 45-60hz). Just need a quiet place to do the tension test and need to test at multiple spots. But since this is a low power bike you can lower the tension to 30hz no problem there. There is also the Krikit tension tool, both are shown in the next video.

Noise: that bike is not loud at all but it does makes some sound, here is how to sounds:

IF you lost the long crank arm bolt on the left side of the motor (and we don't have one in stock) you could use a generic metric bolt and washer instead. the right hand side is a standard crank arm bolt. Both cranks arms are standard square taper 170mm crank arms without spider. You can use Bafang crank arms on your Fixed they are the same

See hand drawing below

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Troubleshooting


Error codes: So far we only seen Error 21. Error 21 is a speed sensor problem, it can manifest as an erratic speed reading or weird odometer reading resulting in motor cut-outs.

Check your magnet and sensor alignment. The sensor can swivel if it gets hit so make sure it's like this:



Make sure the speedo sensor is aligned properly or you will experience erratic speed reading and motor cut-outs.

Watch the next video, it shows you how the speed sensor angle can affect the speedo meter reading (watch carefully the blue circle meter on the display)

Loosing torque assist under lower assist levels

Try to loosen the belt a little, in some situations this issue was resolved by just lowring the tension a little. Start with 10hz less and test again.

Loosing all motor power:

Could be a speed sensor issue (see error 21 section up) a connection issue, a torque sensor issue or a controller issue, first check the speed sensor and check if the walk mode works:

IF no luck contact Luna Cycle as you will likely have to remove the motor to inspect connections

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MOTOR AND CONTROLLER INSTALL/UNINSTALL

Removing the motor


1st remove the cranks arm bolt and them the crank arm using a standard crank extractor



2) Remove the non drive side crank bolt. Its really long, holds the non drive side crank arm on, and threads into the drive tube. Use a standard crank puller to remove crank. pull on drive side crank arm. it will just pull out by hand, attached to a long, splined, drive tube.




CS NOTES: If the axle wont come out of the right side like the picture up, just insert a screwdriver (or a metal bar if it fits) in the LEFT (Non-drive side) crank arm bolt hole (about 2.5 inch long) and tap it in till the axle gets out on the right side.

3rd to remove the front belt ring, you will need to start by prying out the rubber seal in the center of the ring:



4th using standard threaded bb tool, (BB-22) turn the splined nut clockwise to remove it, it's reverse thread so it turns the opposite of normal threads.



Tip: if you don't have an impact gun, you will have to lock the sprocket in place to be able to loosen up the lock nut... So put back the belt over it and lock the rear brakes (Velcro strap on it) and then turn the lock ring clockwise. When you put it back turn counter clockwise and use 30-35ft-lb or force.



5th remove the 6 phillips bolts on drive side, and remove the cover and trim ring.



6th loosen the 2 set screws on the top of the motor, they are 3mm hex.



7th the motor comes out through non drive side, so push it through slowly about 3/4 of the way by wiggling it as you go, unplug the 2 main connectors going to the motor



Step 7 video



8th, once unplugged, pull the motor out of the frame,There is a metal plate the 2x 3mm bolts press onto. It just fits into a recess on the motor. Make sure to put it in a safe place so it isn't lost. That is the keyway to lock the motor in place so it wont rotate under power.

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Battery and controller removal

You can access the charge wire going into seat tube by just pushing the motor out halfway. It has a tiny XT30 connector on it, hopefully it just got unplugged if you are opening it for that reason.

Once you got the motor out the battery and controller will want to slide out of the bike down tube as they are held by the motor case.



Then is a matter of sliding the PVC white tube out and unplugging the yellow XT60 connector from the battery to the controller.



Once you got the motor out, you can remove the cover (left side cover) you can then just slide the gearbox out and you will have access to the torque sensor.

Now If you are reading this it means you either have a broken gearbox or are having problems with the torque sensor. To replace the gearbox it's easy just slide the motor in the new one , make sure the motor wires are not crushed or pinched and that the seal is intact and close it up. But if you have torque sensor issue you can smart by just looking at the tiny connector on the sensor, making sure it's connected properly. If you need to replace it do not pull on the wires, there is likely some adhesive there and you need to remove it first and then pull on the connector body,

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MODS:

Considerations for adding second battery for more range

Generally speaking this is not advisable. It would require extensive modifications and could compromise the battery. Please note that Luna can not take responsibility for the consequences if you break your bike or battery. There are a few separate proposals, we will discuss each below.

Manually switching batteries: Physically unplugging battery 1 from the controller, then plugging battery 2 into the controller. This would be the most straightforward, and eliminates a lot of potential danger in doing the other methods incorrectly. As long as the second battery is a normal 36v nominal battery that should be fine.

Alternately, this might work to switch it If you do use this, take care to switch it when the bike is not using ANY power. That is a relay and not rated up to 42V so take it from me that the relay wont last a few days if you start doing this. Always switch while the display is OFF. Here is a very nice well written post on Reddit by Tim a Luna Fixed Owner that added a secondary battery using that relay, just click here to be redirected. Here is a gallery of a similar modification, this one done where second battery is manually plugged in.

Parallel wiring: The idea here being that you would put another battery in parallel. Generally this is strongly discouraged on bms protected packs unless you are unplugging them from eachother when charging, and are making sure both batteries are identical, and both batteries are same voltage at time of connecting them. Given that this would be difficult to meet these requirements there is another way you might go by using a diode to block current from flowing back into the other battery. This page goes over that in more detail. For a working example of this idea in practice, see this page.

Theoretically you could use Luna remote switches on each battery in that parallel circuit, and switch back and forth by turning the one battery off and then turning the other battery on. This would not be advisable due to the possibility of accidentally not turning the other battery off, which would lead to a massive influx of power which could cause a fire. It might be possible to modify a couple remotes to use the same button with a circuit to control making sure that one remote is always off before another one is turned on, but this is outside the scope of what we can advise on.

Charging integrated battery via the charge port: This is not recommended for multiple reasons. Primarily because any second battery you want to wire up will have a discharge rate ten times higher than the safe charge rate on the charge port. This will burn out the charge port instantly and is also likely to damage the integrated battery on the bike. The port expects something like 2-3A, and another battery can put out 20-30A, maybe higher. Not to mention that at some point the external battery will want to draw current from the internal battery and the charge port is not made to feed anycurrent in reverse and will likely result in a dead BMS.

Additionally, on many BMS-protected batteries the charge port is how the battery bms is reset if something trips it. So if you are charging the original battery while in use, if something like a short happens in a cell, (which normally the BMS would protect against by shutting down the battery) you may be forcing it to reset despite it not being safe to do so. Or at least making it so you have to disconnect from both the short and the charging source before it will reset.

In theory you could limit the current of the discharge on the secondary pack using some custom circuitry, so when you plug into the charge port it is not charging it at some massively high rate of current. For example something like this, which can also do CC/CV charging, an important safety consideration. However, you may still be resetting the BMS on the original battery whenever you are charging it. Do so at your own risk.