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    Enduro ebike frame documentation





    The EEB frame has a lot going for it including durability and most importantly battery space. Below is a picture of both a 72v 26AH monster pack and a 52v 7AH GA pack and it still has room to spare in the included battery box.
    verified enduro measurements.jpg





    Dimensions measurements are of battbox only, taken from inside of box

    This guide will help familiarize you with the Enduro and its use.
    • Battery box with 5.25” depth (see detailed dimensions for the other measurements)
    • The BB shell is 100mm
    • Semi-integrated headset which can take both 1.5” tapered and 1 ⅛ fork with the included adapter
    • The battery box is on rails and is adjustable to be shifted a bit front or rear
    • Kickstand plate for mounting kickstand, takes an M8 bolt
    • The area for the shock has multiple mount points so multiple length shocks can be used which will in turn lower or raise backend
    • It is built for a 31.6mm seat tube
    • Frame is steel.
    • Predrilled holes in bottom of frame for internally routing cabling from handlebars to rear
    • Can take 26” tires up to about 2.75” (such as dirt wizard)
    • Dropouts for rear axle can be widened for a thru axle





    See below for dimensions on the frame itself (not the battery box). You could build a custom battery box for even more space up to this size, or just use the default box which is already quite large.
    enduro_frame_1024x1024__26528.1472537640.1280.1280.jpg

    Motors




    Typically this would be used with a big hubmotor. It can be used with a mid drive, though it is more tricky.
    IMG_20170223_005350.jpg






    Here is a 100mm bbshd, as you can see the maximum you can rotate it upwards is not quite enough to be perfect due to the design on the triangle where they put a plate for mounting a kickstand. It is however good enough, as long as you are not planning on jumping over logs. You could modify the frame
    IMG_20170306_175447.jpg

    Battery box




    You will need to remove the bottom plastic cover once you get the frame and remove the bolts holding the battery box in place (use loctite when putting them back)
    IMG_20170321_042901.jpg
    This is so you can access the place where you mount the bracket holding the rear shock, otherwise no wrench will fit in this space.
    IMG_20170323_220822.jpg
    When putting the battery box back in place, note the lowest hole goes directly from the frame to the battery box itself. Bolts do not appear to be included for this point but you could use the supplied bolt for the shock and put it all the way through, if you were mounting the shock bracket in that low position. For example if you had a smaller shock this would be where you would position the bracket, and the same bolt would both reinforce the box and hold the shock bracket.

    Note for where you mount the bracket for the shock: This will impact how high or low the rear end of the frame sits. For medium sized riders wanting maximum amount of suspension, you want the shock bracket as high up as possible (go higher than shown in these pictures). You can pick not only which bolt holes but also whether you want the bracket itself upside down or not, this will also determine how high the shock is mounted. You want it in the position where it is highest so you can use a large shock, this will give you the most amount of travel. The only reason to have it in this position in the picture is if you are tall as it will change the standover height.


    In this example an M8 bolt was used to bolt into the battery box. Add this bolt before replacing the bolts on the bottom of the battery box. As this is the only point besides the bottom bolts holding the battery box in place it is important to add a bolt here.
    IMG_20170323_234428.jpg

    Bottom bracket




    If you wish to remove the bottom bracket you need a park tool bb32
    IMG_20170213_173326.jpg
    While the left side is easy, the right side will probably require a good deal of force, and wd-40 in the threads. Make sure you are turning it the correct direction! The righthand side is reverse threaded and unscrews clockwise.
    IMG_20170213_173519.jpg

    Dropouts
    IMG_20170223_005523.jpg
    By default this will take axles up to 9.9mm width. This can be widened as described later.

    Included with the frame are steel spacers that bolt into the dropouts on either side, which can help reinforce the dropouts and adjust the dropout width. Seen here the spacer is attached to the dropout so the dropout thickness is 14.25mm, very thick.
    IMG_20170223_010648_1.jpg
    Here is a spacer by itself detached from the dropout:
    IMG_20170223_005932.jpg
    Each spacer is 8mm thick
    IMG_20170322_023844.jpg







    If both are on the outside of the dropouts as in this picture you get 154.12mm
    IMG_20170223_005702.jpg
    If both are on the inside you get 138.31mm:
    IMG_20170223_010406.jpg
    You may be asking could you put a standard 135mm rear bike hub in if it’s ~138mm with the spacers? No because while the inner width is about right, the outer width is too far apart.
    wont fit regular hub.jpg


    So let’s get this thing up on a bike stand after getting a seatpost installed in it.

    In this guide we are using a Bikehand Pro, costs about $90 and can handle the weight. You could go most expensive (park tool) but cheaper would not work. If putting a heavy hubmotor on you may still want the Park stand.
    IMG_20170302_153532.jpg
    IMG_20170304_155739.jpg
    Comes with a nice enduro branded seatpost clamp:
    IMG_20170304_155909_1.jpg

    #2
    Mid drive mods


    Now lets say you want to put a rear hub on here for a mid drive. A good choice is aShimano xt-fh-m8010 which is 12 x 142mm
    IMG_20170311_034422.jpg




    ..and a shimano ax56 thru axle qr for 12x142mm, unless you just want to use a plain 12mm bolt and nut. Either way you would need to remove some material at the dropouts so a 12mm qr or bolt will fit. Easiest way to do that is with a dremel and a tungsten carbide grinding bit.
    IMG_20170322_004419.jpg



    Just take it slow and check your measurements often and you will be fine. End result after a bit of grinding:
    IMG_20170322_004917.jpg



    IMG_20170322_004956.jpg




    With some careful hammering you can also move the width close enough to fit the QR:
    IMG_20170322_005101.jpg



    If you find you have hammered it in too far just bend it a bit back in place using a lever and fulcrum.
    Rear shock



    You may find that the rear shock is a bit out of spec from what you would expect. This measures 23.61mm on the swingarm
    IMG_20170320_175722.jpg




    Meanwhile your average 550lb dnm downhill shock by default has 24mm hardware.
    IMG_20170320_175748.jpg




    We can bend this the extra 1mm with this spreader tool
    IMG_20170320_175907.jpg




    A few quick turns and we are at 24mm. Mounting hardware (shock bolts) is included for this width.
    IMG_20170320_180317.jpg


    The headset



    This part can be a bit confusing but is fairly straightforward.

    The frame is designed with “semi-integrated” headset, which means it has most of what you need already. It has cups and comes with cartridge bearings pre-installed into those cups. The cups/bearings are for 1 ⅛” on top and 1.5” on bottom. This is one of the bearings:
    photo_1489452329432.jpg




    The bearing is flat on one side and has a chamfered (angled) edge on the other. You want the chamfered edge facing outward while the flat part sits against the cup the bearing is in.
    IMG_20170314_025026.jpg




    On a 1 ⅛” fork you want to use this included adapter (and only this adapter), this is your crown race you want to install.

    IMG_20170313_210112.jpg




    http://www.jensonusa.com/!vkt97poKymBC!ulDExLtjQ!/JensonUSA-Crown-Race-Setter
    ^^
    Installing the race requires a tool like this. It rests on the race, without scratching it up. You then hammer down on the tool and the race will go down. You want it all the way down to the bottom. You will need to hammer with some force but long as you got the tool you are fine, it's supposed to be a tight fit. (there's youtube videos showing people doing it if you need more info)

    If you have a tapered fork use the other supplied crown race. Make sure you have the chamfered side facing up so it matches the chamfered bearing.
    IMG_20170314_014626.jpg



    Slide it up inside and we are ready to do the top. See how it fits in there flush, you want it like that.
    IMG_20170315_165741.jpg


    ..continued on next post..

    Comment


      #3
      Top of headset



      This is how to arrange the included hardware for the top portion. Cup goes in frame, bearing goes in cup with chamfer facing out, chamfered silver compression ring sits against bearing, black dust cap goes on top. Compression from rest of the hardware (once you tighten the top cap) makes a nice tight fit against the bearing, due to the compression ring. Both angled pieces need to be sitting against eachother.
      IMG_20170314_023911.jpg

      IMG_20170314_025144.jpg

      What it looks like with just the cup, no bearing inserted:
      IMG_20170314_025820.jpg

      With the bearing properly inserted:
      IMG_20170314_025907.jpg


      with the compression ring added:
      IMG_20170314_030024.jpg


      It should look like this:
      IMG_20170314_030341.jpg


      Side angle with the dust cap:
      IMG_20170314_031103.jpg


      IMG_20170314_030440.jpg


      If this is double crown you can put the rest of this hardware on
      IMG_20170314_031409.jpg


      Add spacers so everything is higher than the top of the steerer tube
      IMG_20170315_164723.jpg


      Add a top cap and the headset is finished
      IMG_20170322_042510.jpg


      Comment


        #4
        Very productive... Thanks for sharing.

        Comment


          #5
          Hi Paxtana, Very Nice Build with Clear Steps

          Comment


            #6
            Did you Build your EEB Frame using the BBSHD Mid Drive option ?
            If so, did the extra weight of this frame cause an issue in performance or hill climbing ability?

            im considering doing a BBSHD EEB Build, Any thoughts on using this Mid Drive setup would be much Appreciated

            Comment


              #7
              Yes Patrick on mine I did use BBSHD. The motor does not mind extra weight. There are a few things you may want to do though.
              The pic below is the BBSHD mounted.

              I removed the bottom kickstand plate from the frame (look closely and you can see where it was sawed off)
              I removed some material from the two topmost fins on the lefthand side of the motor.
              I also removed a small amount from that low angled point where the metal is welded together.
              Altogether this GREATLY improved ground clearance and makes the motor blend in much nicer when seen from a distance. If you have the capability I would highly recommend it.

              Additionally for the bottom bracket shell itself I removed the paint from the edges of the shell, then took a triangle file and filed dozens of notches into the shell so the black metal plate has something textured to bite into. Each notch was around 2mm deep.

              I also mounted an eclipse, and found the chainline to be very acceptable with Eclipse. Shouldn't be a problem even in the lowest gears. Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20170626_124830.jpg Views:	1 Size:	199.0 KB ID:	38509



              Only downside is a mid drive will interfere with the kickstand which would otherwise mount into that plate. I have found a few kickstands that mount to square swingarms but they are too short, built for mopeds (mostly 9"). So it seems like it comes down to using an extender for a square stand, or finding an extra long 13" stand then modifying the mount mechanism for mounting to this square swingarm.

              Comment


                #8
                Hi Paxtona, That's awesome, Thanks Mate
                Im thinking of Going 15S -12P (1pack 8S -12P) and (2 Pack 7S - 12P) Charging cells to 4V resulting in 60V total output
                Be Using I-Charger 1010 Duo for Charging/Balancing Packs Seperatly (No BMS Required)

                Also mounted 2 x Cell Checker for on Top part of Bike near key switch (monitoring each cell -switched on/off via tiny relays)
                I have attached a Electrical Diagram of my Power & Control Cct (I am a Licenced Electrical) for anyone who wants to Build there Bike this Way

                Comment


                  #9

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I meant "Licensed Electrican" lol

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Oh nice. Good luck!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks Mate, will post some Picks when finished

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Here's a couple extra pics for you Patrick. This is with the build complete. Surly 2.5" tires on DM24 rims, Hope hub front and Zee DH hub rear, 203mm rotors, SLX brakes.
                          As you can see the frame blends seamlessly into the motor. Needed to cut a bit of plastic away from that point with a dremel. Also needed to do the same thing where the chainring sits. It's still closed, just the lip of the cover that would touch the frame.


                          Click image for larger version

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                          Another neat pic, something I did not realize until finishing up. The frame has predrilled holes for internally routing cabling!
                          This is the underside of the frame. There's a flared point near the headset you run cables through so it reaches the underside, then they go through these cable holes and out the rubber port on the backside of the frame to the wheels.
                          Click image for larger version

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                          Comment


                            #14
                            Hi Paxtana,
                            Very Nice Build, Great to see the Finished Product via your Photos

                            Comment


                              #15


                              I have gone with

                              Rims - Mavic EX 729 Maxxas Minion 26 x 2.5" Tyres
                              Front Hub - Shimano Zee HB-M640
                              Rear Hub - XT FH M8010
                              Drivetrain -Shimano Deore XT M8000 (11 - 42T) 11 Speed (46T Lekki Bling Ring -Front)
                              Brakes - Shimano M8000 Hydraulic (Attach magnetic cutoff magnet etc) 203mm Front 180mm Rear (SLX Icetech Rotor & Pads)
                              Rear Shock - Rock Shox Vivid R2C (240 x 76mm)
                              Front Forks - Rock Shox RC 200mm Travel (Dual Crown) Thanks Luna Cycles

                              Comment

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