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Enduro ebike frame documentation

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    Enduro ebike frame documentation

    The EEB frame has a lot going for it including durability and most importantly battery space. Below is a picture of both a 72v 26AH monster pack and a 52v 7AH GA pack and it still has room to spare in the included battery box.
    verified enduro measurements.jpg

    Dimensions measurements are of battbox only, taken from inside of box

    This guide will help familiarize you with the Enduro and its use.
    • Battery box with 5.25” depth (see detailed dimensions for the other measurements)
    • The BB shell is 100mm
    • Semi-integrated headset which can take both 1.5” tapered and 1 ⅛ fork with the included adapter
    • The battery box is on rails and is adjustable to be shifted a bit front or rear
    • Kickstand plate for mounting kickstand, takes an M8 bolt
    • The area for the shock has multiple mount points so multiple length shocks can be used which will in turn lower or raise backend
    • It is built for a 31.6mm seat tube
    • Frame is steel.
    • Predrilled holes in bottom of frame for internally routing cabling from handlebars to rear
    • Can take 26” tires up to about 2.75” (such as dirt wizard)
    • Dropouts for rear axle can be widened for a thru axle

    See below for dimensions on the frame itself (not the battery box). You could build a custom battery box for even more space up to this size, or just use the default box which is already quite large.


    Typically this would be used with a big hubmotor. It can be used with a mid drive, though it is more tricky.

    Here is a 100mm bbshd, as you can see the maximum you can rotate it upwards is not quite enough to be perfect due to the design on the triangle where they put a plate for mounting a kickstand. It is however good enough, as long as you are not planning on jumping over logs. You could modify the frame

    Battery box

    You will need to remove the bottom plastic cover once you get the frame and remove the bolts holding the battery box in place (use loctite when putting them back)
    This is so you can access the place where you mount the bracket holding the rear shock, otherwise no wrench will fit in this space.
    When putting the battery box back in place, note the lowest hole goes directly from the frame to the battery box itself. Bolts do not appear to be included for this point but you could use the supplied bolt for the shock and put it all the way through, if you were mounting the shock bracket in that low position. For example if you had a smaller shock this would be where you would position the bracket, and the same bolt would both reinforce the box and hold the shock bracket.

    Note for where you mount the bracket for the shock: This will impact how high or low the rear end of the frame sits. For medium sized riders wanting maximum amount of suspension, you want the shock bracket as high up as possible (go higher than shown in these pictures). You can pick not only which bolt holes but also whether you want the bracket itself upside down or not, this will also determine how high the shock is mounted. You want it in the position where it is highest so you can use a large shock, this will give you the most amount of travel. The only reason to have it in this position in the picture is if you are tall as it will change the standover height.

    In this example an M8 bolt was used to bolt into the battery box. Add this bolt before replacing the bolts on the bottom of the battery box. As this is the only point besides the bottom bolts holding the battery box in place it is important to add a bolt here.

    Bottom bracket

    If you wish to remove the bottom bracket you need a park tool bb32
    While the left side is easy, the right side will probably require a good deal of force, and wd-40 in the threads. Make sure you are turning it the correct direction! The righthand side is reverse threaded and unscrews clockwise.

    By default this will take axles up to 9.9mm width. This can be widened as described later.

    Included with the frame are steel spacers that bolt into the dropouts on either side, which can help reinforce the dropouts and adjust the dropout width. Seen here the spacer is attached to the dropout so the dropout thickness is 14.25mm, very thick.
    Here is a spacer by itself detached from the dropout:
    Each spacer is 8mm thick

    If both are on the outside of the dropouts as in this picture you get 154.12mm
    If both are on the inside you get 138.31mm:
    You may be asking could you put a standard 135mm rear bike hub in if it’s ~138mm with the spacers? No because while the inner width is about right, the outer width is too far apart.
    wont fit regular hub.jpg

    So let’s get this thing up on a bike stand after getting a seatpost installed in it.

    In this guide we are using a Bikehand Pro, costs about $90 and can handle the weight. You could go most expensive (park tool) but cheaper would not work. If putting a heavy hubmotor on you may still want the Park stand.
    Comes with a nice enduro branded seatpost clamp:

    Mid drive mods

    Now lets say you want to put a rear hub on here for a mid drive. A good choice is aShimano xt-fh-m8010 which is 12 x 142mm

    ..and a shimano ax56 thru axle qr for 12x142mm, unless you just want to use a plain 12mm bolt and nut. Either way you would need to remove some material at the dropouts so a 12mm qr or bolt will fit. Easiest way to do that is with a dremel and a tungsten carbide grinding bit.

    Just take it slow and check your measurements often and you will be fine. End result after a bit of grinding:


    With some careful hammering you can also move the width close enough to fit the QR:

    If you find you have hammered it in too far just bend it a bit back in place using a lever and fulcrum.
    Rear shock

    You may find that the rear shock is a bit out of spec from what you would expect. This measures 23.61mm on the swingarm

    Meanwhile your average 550lb dnm downhill shock by default has 24mm hardware.

    We can bend this the extra 1mm with this spreader tool

    A few quick turns and we are at 24mm. Mounting hardware (shock bolts) is included for this width.

    The headset

    This part can be a bit confusing but is fairly straightforward.

    The frame is designed with “semi-integrated” headset, which means it has most of what you need already. It has cups and comes with cartridge bearings pre-installed into those cups. The cups/bearings are for 1 ⅛” on top and 1.5” on bottom. This is one of the bearings:

    The bearing is flat on one side and has a chamfered (angled) edge on the other. You want the chamfered edge facing outward while the flat part sits against the cup the bearing is in.

    On a 1 ⅛” fork you want to use this included adapter (and only this adapter), this is your crown race you want to install.

    Installing the race requires a tool like this. It rests on the race, without scratching it up. You then hammer down on the tool and the race will go down. You want it all the way down to the bottom. You will need to hammer with some force but long as you got the tool you are fine, it's supposed to be a tight fit. (there's youtube videos showing people doing it if you need more info)

    If you have a tapered fork use the other supplied crown race. Make sure you have the chamfered side facing up so it matches the chamfered bearing.

    Slide it up inside and we are ready to do the top. See how it fits in there flush, you want it like that.

    ..continued on next post..


      Top of headset

      This is how to arrange the included hardware for the top portion. Cup goes in frame, bearing goes in cup with chamfer facing out, chamfered silver compression ring sits against bearing, black dust cap goes on top. Compression from rest of the hardware (once you tighten the top cap) makes a nice tight fit against the bearing, due to the compression ring. Both angled pieces need to be sitting against eachother.


      What it looks like with just the cup, no bearing inserted:

      With the bearing properly inserted:

      with the compression ring added:

      It should look like this:

      Side angle with the dust cap:


      If this is double crown you can put the rest of this hardware on

      Add spacers so everything is higher than the top of the steerer tube

      Add a top cap and the headset is finished


        Very productive... Thanks for sharing.


          Hi Paxtana, Very Nice Build with Clear Steps


            Did you Build your EEB Frame using the BBSHD Mid Drive option ?
            If so, did the extra weight of this frame cause an issue in performance or hill climbing ability?

            im considering doing a BBSHD EEB Build, Any thoughts on using this Mid Drive setup would be much Appreciated


              Yes Patrick on mine I did use BBSHD. The motor does not mind extra weight. There are a few things you may want to do though.
              The pic below is the BBSHD mounted.

              I removed the bottom kickstand plate from the frame (look closely and you can see where it was sawed off)
              I removed some material from the two topmost fins on the lefthand side of the motor.
              I also removed a small amount from that low angled point where the metal is welded together.
              Altogether this GREATLY improved ground clearance and makes the motor blend in much nicer when seen from a distance. If you have the capability I would highly recommend it.

              Additionally for the bottom bracket shell itself I removed the paint from the edges of the shell, then took a triangle file and filed dozens of notches into the shell so the black metal plate has something textured to bite into. Each notch was around 2mm deep.

              I also mounted an eclipse, and found the chainline to be very acceptable with Eclipse. Shouldn't be a problem even in the lowest gears. Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_20170626_124830.jpg Views:	1 Size:	199.0 KB ID:	38509

              Only downside is a mid drive will interfere with the kickstand which would otherwise mount into that plate. I have found a few kickstands that mount to square swingarms but they are too short, built for mopeds (mostly 9"). So it seems like it comes down to using an extender for a square stand, or finding an extra long 13" stand then modifying the mount mechanism for mounting to this square swingarm.


              • berkel
                berkel commented
                Editing a comment
                Hi, I just completed my EEB with BBSHD build and took a short ride around my yard (in the dark). I used a dremel to get more ground clearance so that it tucks up higher than in the pic above, but now I realize that when the suspension compresses or when I accelerate, the motor is hitting the frame. I'll have to look at it tomorrow and see if the motor is loose, or if I just need to rotate the motor down slightly for more clearance. I also have a stabilizer bar to install, so maybe that will help. I've also seen where people put epoxy or rubber/foam there to cushion the motor, so may look into that. You don't have any issues with the motor hitting the frame? Your article was very helpful for my build, much appreciated. I have a Ludicrous V2 to install and and go with my 72V battery, but wanted to try it with the regular "hot rod" BBSHD first to get a feel for it.

              • paxtana
                paxtana commented
                Editing a comment
                I did have some issue with it until i put the bsb-1 mount on it as shown in a later post in this thread. Ever since then it's been fine, and it's been 4 years so far so I'm pretty confident it's not going anywhere lol

              Hi Paxtona, That's awesome, Thanks Mate
              Im thinking of Going 15S -12P (1pack 8S -12P) and (2 Pack 7S - 12P) Charging cells to 4V resulting in 60V total output
              Be Using I-Charger 1010 Duo for Charging/Balancing Packs Seperatly (No BMS Required)

              Also mounted 2 x Cell Checker for on Top part of Bike near key switch (monitoring each cell -switched on/off via tiny relays)
              I have attached a Electrical Diagram of my Power & Control Cct (I am a Licenced Electrical) for anyone who wants to Build there Bike this Way




                  I meant "Licensed Electrican" lol


                    Oh nice. Good luck!


                      Thanks Mate, will post some Picks when finished


                        Here's a couple extra pics for you Patrick. This is with the build complete. Surly 2.5" tires on DM24 rims, Hope hub front and Zee DH hub rear, 203mm rotors, SLX brakes.
                        As you can see the frame blends seamlessly into the motor. Needed to cut a bit of plastic away from that point with a dremel. Also needed to do the same thing where the chainring sits. It's still closed, just the lip of the cover that would touch the frame.

                        Click image for larger version

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                        Another neat pic, something I did not realize until finishing up. The frame has predrilled holes for internally routing cabling!
                        This is the underside of the frame. There's a flared point near the headset you run cables through so it reaches the underside, then they go through these cable holes and out the rubber port on the backside of the frame to the wheels.
                        Click image for larger version

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                          Hi Paxtana,
                          Very Nice Build, Great to see the Finished Product via your Photos



                            I have gone with

                            Rims - Mavic EX 729 Maxxas Minion 26 x 2.5" Tyres
                            Front Hub - Shimano Zee HB-M640
                            Rear Hub - XT FH M8010
                            Drivetrain -Shimano Deore XT M8000 (11 - 42T) 11 Speed (46T Lekki Bling Ring -Front)
                            Brakes - Shimano M8000 Hydraulic (Attach magnetic cutoff magnet etc) 203mm Front 180mm Rear (SLX Icetech Rotor & Pads)
                            Rear Shock - Rock Shox Vivid R2C (240 x 76mm)
                            Front Forks - Rock Shox RC 200mm Travel (Dual Crown) Thanks Luna Cycles