The EEB frame has a lot going for it including durability and most importantly battery space. Below is a picture of both a 72v 26AH monster pack and a 52v 7AH GA pack and it still has room to spare in the included battery box.
| Dimensions measurements are of battbox only, taken from inside of box |
This guide will help familiarize you with the Enduro and its use.
- Battery box with 5.25” depth (see detailed dimensions for the other measurements)
- The BB shell is 100mm
- Semi-integrated headset which can take both 1.5” tapered and 1 ⅛ fork with the included adapter
- The battery box is on rails and is adjustable to be shifted a bit front or rear
- Kickstand plate for mounting kickstand, takes an M8 bolt
- The area for the shock has multiple mount points so multiple length shocks can be used which will in turn lower or raise backend
- It is built for a 31.6mm seat tube
- Frame is steel.
- Predrilled holes in bottom of frame for internally routing cabling from handlebars to rear
- Can take 26” tires up to about 2.75” (such as dirt wizard)
- Dropouts for rear axle can be widened for a thru axle
See below for dimensions on the frame itself (not the battery box). You could build a custom battery box for even more space up to this size, or just use the default box which is already quite large.
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Motors
Typically this would be used with a big hubmotor. It can be used with a mid drive, though it is more tricky.
Here is a 100mm bbshd, as you can see the maximum you can rotate it upwards is not quite enough to be perfect due to the design on the triangle where they put a plate for mounting a kickstand. It is however good enough, as long as you are not planning on jumping over logs. You could modify the frame
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Battery box
You will need to remove the bottom plastic cover once you get the frame and remove the bolts holding the battery box in place (use loctite when putting them back)
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Note for where you mount the bracket for the shock: This will impact how high or low the rear end of the frame sits. For medium sized riders wanting maximum amount of suspension, you want the shock bracket as high up as possible (go higher than shown in these pictures). You can pick not only which bolt holes but also whether you want the bracket itself upside down or not, this will also determine how high the shock is mounted. You want it in the position where it is highest so you can use a large shock, this will give you the most amount of travel. The only reason to have it in this position in the picture is if you are tall as it will change the standover height.
In this example an M8 bolt was used to bolt into the battery box. Add this bolt before replacing the bolts on the bottom of the battery box. As this is the only point besides the bottom bolts holding the battery box in place it is important to add a bolt here.
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Bottom bracket
If you wish to remove the bottom bracket you need a park tool bb32
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Dropouts
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Included with the frame are steel spacers that bolt into the dropouts on either side, which can help reinforce the dropouts and adjust the dropout width. Seen here the spacer is attached to the dropout so the dropout thickness is 14.25mm, very thick.
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If both are on the outside of the dropouts as in this picture you get 154.12mm
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So let’s get this thing up on a bike stand after getting a seatpost installed in it.
In this guide we are using a Bikehand Pro, costs about $90 and can handle the weight. You could go most expensive (park tool) but cheaper would not work. If putting a heavy hubmotor on you may still want the Park stand.
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