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Luna Fixed Bike DISCUSSION THREAD

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  • Sammy53
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  • Sammy53
    commented on 's reply
    Hi there, I just checked the charger that came with the Luna Stealth. It works with 110/220, 50/60 hz. It's a 1.8amp. The only thing you'd have to do is put on the plug that you use for 220v. In your country.

  • 73Eldo
    commented on 's reply
    I just checked both my Luna Advanced charger and my Luna Mini and they both say 120/220v on them. On the Advanced I can see what looks like it could be an unlabeled selector switch through a slot. The mini I don't see a switch. Its common for that design of power supply to be auto sensing so there may not be a switch and what I see though the slot could be something else. Unless they have an other option I think they all ship with US cords directly attached so you would need an adapter or chop the US end off then source and attach the one you need.

  • Belkassim
    replied
    Hi there! I am planning to have the fixed luna bike shipped to Germany via a friend. We have a lot of bike shops over here. So maintenance is not an issue. But still I am not sure if the battery can be charged with 220. Is there any adapter-kit, solution for that?

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  • Sammy53
    commented on 's reply
    This mod was done without making any additional holes in the frame of the bike. The battery is mounted on a hose clamp mount that's available online. A wire harness was made of 14ga silicone wires to connect the batteries to the controller through a 50amp 3 way switch. Up position for the auxiliary battery. The middle position is off. The down position is for the proprietary battery. The wires of the harness are routed through the drain hole bellow the motor. All external wiring & the switch are shrink wrapped for water resistance.

  • moonboot
    replied
    Sammy53, looks great, very neat! Can you please share pictures of how you did re-route cables and wired the switch? I think that's the best implementation I've seen!

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  • Sammy53
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  • Sammy53
    commented on 's reply
    Thx. I took ur suggestion. Those videos don't show how to completely remove the rear wheel. Only how to adjust the gears and belt tension. The tensioner assembly is the part I'm trying to remove. If you don't have an answer that's fine. Maybe someone else is able to help. Thx anyways

  • paxtana
    commented on 's reply
    Should be able to just watch the videos on the first post of this thread?

  • Sammy53
    replied
    Hello, I have a Luna Stealth Ebike and received my 1st flat on the rear (ouch). I was wondering if there was a video or pdf on removing the rear wheel to change the tube. The brake side is free, but the tensioner side is binding, even after removing the tensioner. There seems to be an insert where the axle is. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thx.

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  • Segan83
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    Can someone measure the inner rim width on the stock rims that come on the bike? I'm looking at buying but want to get Tannus solid tires to make this the ultimate low maintenance e bike.

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  • moonboot
    commented on 's reply
    Some more details:

    first of allI’d like to thanks Tony from Luna, as he always provided support, especially when looking at the fork mount measures…great customer care! Jeremy and the Lauf team have been really supportive, exchanging pictures and measures until I got comfortable pulling the trigger on the fork...also, big shout-out to Wiggle Bicycles here in SF, they not only built the wheels, but provided a lot of advice about ordering the correct braking system parts combination...while I did the build myself, and it has been a ton of fun, it could definitively have been problematic in a couple of cases at least...local shops for the win.

    The idea behind the built was to make use of unconventional/mechanically well designed and built parts, in order to have an original (yet functional) look, for what I think it could be called “high performance commuting” when going around the city.
    The base for the build was pretty strong and, and i would say, the changes I made pushed the bike toward an extreme that may not fit every scenario like it did before, but it definitively excels in the right context.

    Solutions like the wheels or the brakes are likely an overkill, but considering how easily the bike can go fast, they won’t hurt for sure and they look amazing (at least to me!)
    With regards to suspensions, the streets here in the city are not exactly Bonneville, and I needed something to make the ride more comfortable.

    So, keeping the “maintenance free” philosophy, I opted for the Lauf Grit SL fork, it comes with a tapered steerer of exactly the right dimension… pretty swap on (if you change the wheel too anyway), exception made of course for the need to cut the carbon fiber steer column based on your preference.

    The front through axle is 12mm, matched to a Hope 32H 12mm hub, with center lock brake mount.

    SRAM 180mm CL both front and rear; that’s the minimum size given Hope RX 4 pots CNC calipers (post-mount front, flat mount rear) won’t allow less in this combination.

    A Redshift dampening stem keeps the fork in place, I may test a traditional stem, but I really like the “bouncing” overall effect when working in combination with the fork and the carbon Zipp Speed Weaponry SL-70 Ergo Drop Handlebar (44cm)
    For the levers, the choice was Shimano GRX, they are listed as compatible and tested by Hope to work with their calipers, only thing is, they come with an integrated (and heavy) shifter assembly, which is not needed in this case…took me a while to "reverse engineer" the process, but eventually I did figure out how to safely dismount *every* part not related to the brake, saving a lot (not a super weight weenie, but you know… things must be functional).

    No need to say, the braking system is probably the strong point of the built, along with the fork (and the amazing stock motor/transmission)

    The shifter is actuated by a Sturmey Archer SL-S30 lever, and mounted to a bar extension, along with the display and a bell.

    Seat mount comes form Canyon, S25, swap on, it is supposed to provide some dampening effect keeping the weight down, I didn’t feel much difference initially, but going back to a traditional post made me realize it actually contributes to a slightly smoother ride. The saddle is a San Marco SuperLeggera and the 7x9mm rails required a different set of seat post clamps, which are sold out in the US…fortunately I have a friend in Germany who bought it directly from Canyon.

    As mentioned, the rear has a new hub, identical to the stock one except for the number of spokes now 32.

    I kept the stock transmission, as top speed is plenty, especially for the city.

    What else… changed pedals with something lighter (ebay) they do the job but I’m still looking for something matching the bike better (crank arms too).

    One note, I took the time to fix an issue I had wth my bike, as the battery assembly did rattle inside the frame, when hitting a bump/pot hole. I did pad the parts and checked that the bay would allow the assembly to slide (not too tight, but tighter) adding some extra tape around the battery and padding on the controller. Took some time to smoothen the PVC tube cuts, to avoid bleeding edges to work on wires.
    The bike now is *silent* and a joy to ride, thanks Tony again.

    Future enhancements: a range extender for sure, but rather than adding weight with switches/relais, I think I’ll work on a swappable connector, routing wires through the power supply connector hole, using a custom battery shaped like a bottle…simple, reliable and lightweight.

    ..love the bike!

    edit: total weight is now 37.6 lb!
    Last edited by moonboot; 11-03-2020, 06:35 PM.

  • moonboot
    commented on 's reply
    25mm (80mm deep rear) and 25mm (60mm deep front) carbon tubeless rims, 32 Holes...I took a bit of gamble buying them on eBay, but that was the only way to get a custom rim for the rear, to fit the Nexus IGH..I'm impressed and so far so good (also, not using the rim brake solution, I'm not concerned about wearing out the carbon shoulder anyway). I changed the rear hub, as Shimano makes the 32H while the the bike came originally with 36H..swapped without issues. Tires are 28mm 700c tubeless, Maxxis re-fuse.

  • paxtana
    commented on 's reply
    What kind of wheels are those?

  • moonboot
    replied
    Hi everyone! just wanted to share my build, hope you'll like it!

    I'll post further details in case interested! cheers
    Attached Files
    Last edited by moonboot; 11-01-2020, 11:18 AM.

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