Are there and details is how the internal cables are routed through the frame? My gear shifter is out of adjustment range and I may need to replace the cable assembly. It looks like the bit of housing going to the shifter was too short when assembled. The adjustments screw is bottomed out and I still can’t get the yellow dot aligned between the white lines on 2nd gear.
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Hello, I have this bike but I believe the motor is about dead. I had it happen once before and went through a bunch of work to get a new motor installed, but now it's starting to fail again. I was wondering if anyone in the Seattle/ Kitsap are would like to take the bike off my hands for parts or a project. Not looking to make any money, just want it gone. Thanks for your patience, I am not a forum regular.Comment
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Hi, I have an issue where my Luna won't turn on.
I do not have the tools, the patience necessary to fix this issue. If anyone in or around the Atlanta area wants to tackle this project, make me an offer. If anyone else on this forum wants it, feel free to make me an offer. I have added a rear rack and added fenders, but my employers is going to pay for my next eBike, so I no longer have a need for this.Comment
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What capacity cells does the Luna Fixed use? Is it possible to rebuild the battery with higher capacity cells?Comment
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Have had the Fixed for about a year and really enjoyed this great bike. Recently, the motor has needed much greater effort to engage—you practically have to stand on the pedals to get it to turn on. After some tinkering, I could not diagnose the problem, so took to an ebike shop here in the Bay Area. They pulled and tested all connections, display, speed sensor, and set correct belt tension, adjusted gear shifter, and verified that the poles in the display are set correctly. They think maybe it’s a bad motor…any ideas appreciated! —peteComment
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Maybe the torque sensor. Please contact support https://lunacycle.com/support-request/
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Thx Paxtana, I contacted support as you recommended and they suggested a new motor. Do you know if motor incorporates the torque sensor or do I need to order that separately?Comment
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OK—expensive repair for a 1 year old bike but thx for prompt answersComment
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Does anyone know:
1. Fork stem size for the Fixed (1 1/8” ?)
2. About the max size stem extension one could install before cables become a problem
3. Can the electrical cable extend 3 extra inches or is there electrical cable extenders availableLast edited by harriska2; 05-04-2022, 07:27 AM.Comment
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1. Stem extension diameter is 1 1/8. I got this and it works. Also bought a 30 degree short stem. Right hydraulic brake line is just barely long enough on mine. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09...b_b_asin_title
2. 7 inches is tight but doable
3. No need for extension for electric cable, there is a bunch of extra length tucked in the tube
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Still looking for a link to purchase Bofeili mid drive MotorOriginally posted by harriska2 View Post
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How would one go about replacing the factory bar and shifter/brakes with a drop bar and road bike shifter/brakes? Are there compatible shifters with the nexus hub?Comment
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Has anyone experienced overheating issues? My commute to work has 600-700 ft of elevation gain in 3 miles. Temp in the upper 80's right now. I had the bike in assist level 3 on the steeper parts of the climb, and about 200 yds from the office the bike died. Screen will not turn back on. I've tried unplugging and reconnecting and nothing happens.
Does anyone know if the bike will auto shut off if it gets too hot as a safety measure?Comment
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It seems to have come up before but was "out of scope", anyone figure out if this motor is available from anyone except Luna? I'm very interested in buying the bike because the price and features seem about perfect for me, but being as the Luna page for spare motors is currently listing it out of stock and so many people have had problems, I'd feel a lot better if I knew that I could swap in some motor that was likely to be available long-term. (Is it maybe just a standard form factor that other manufacturers also use?)Comment
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The rear hydraulic brake line failed on my large size frame. Hopefully my repair experience/advice will be useful for others.
As others have commented, the rear (right lever) hydraulic brake line is too short, especially on large frames. For me this meant the plastic sleeve that slides over the compression fitting nut wouldn't stay in place and I was kinking the hose against the fitting as I rode. I eventually taped the protective plastic sleeve in place but after 1500 miles I arrived at work with no rear brakes and fluid pouring out of a tear in the top of the hydraulic hose right where it goes into the lever mechanism.
Since I see hydraulic brakes in my future bike needs I decided to invest in the tools and expertise needed to DIY this repair.
Repair Rating
I would rate this as an advanced skill repair. It requires belt removal, crank removal, drive sprocket removal, crank motor removal, fishing hose through the frame, belt tensioning and more beyond the simple hydraulic hose termination and bleeding. Took easily 4 hours and I had previous experience with belt and crank motor removal. IMO the crank motor removal is required. I tried fishing the hose using just the opening under the crank motor and had no luck in either the chain stay or down tube direction. Everything is a tight fit down there!
Repair journal
Parts needed:
Tektro 5.5mm connect hose kit (2m hose and fittings to terminate 2 ends). Myhose kit was labeled '10 Ø5.5mm connect hose kit'
Hydraulic brake bleed kit. (Generic kit had everything I needed)
Full bike repair kit including hex keys and torx keys for various brake/crank components as well as splined bottom bracket tool that fits the bike.
Brake mineral oil.
Recommended additional tools:
Tektro TRP Advanced Bleed Kit which includes fittings, cutting tool, press tool for inserting barbed fitting as well as bleed tools.
Rotating bike stand.
Isopropyl Alcohol (for cleanup)
Step 1: Remove the failed hydraulic hose
The rear brake hose runs into the down tube, under the crank motor and out the left-hand chain (belt!) stay to the rear brake caliper. This is a tight fit all the way through and after many attempts here was the successful approach:- Cut the hose between the caliper and rear chain stay (keep rag under as fluid will leak out). Remove remaining hose from caliper by backing out compression fitting nut. Discard these parts as they are single use.
- Remove cranks, drive sprocket and crank motor, sliding it 3/4 out to the non-drive side to get access to the hose that passes under the motor. The online manual has a good guide on removing the crank motor. You will need some specialized tools so read through that guide before jumping in. Rocking is the secret to getting the motor to move slowly out non-drive side.
- Once the motor is not covering the hose, pull it out from the chain stay from the crank motor side... It is a tight fit and will bind up but working it back and forth should have it out quickly.
- taking the end of the hose the comes out the crank motor opening, cut a hole in the hose so a string can be threaded through the hose and tied in a compact knot. (strong small diameter string is good here as there isn't much clearance when fishing the hose through the down tube). I shaved the top 1/2 of my hose away so the 1/2 section of hose (with hole) plus string wasn't wider than the full hose.
- pull the hose up and out from the opening near the top of the down tube being careful to guide the string into the opening near the crank motor. Done right this will remove the hydraulic tube from the down tube but a string will come with it allowing the new tube to be fished up past the batteries and to the brake lever later.
- Insert the new hose into the opening in the chain stay, working it back and forth until it comes out into the crank motor area (crank motor out of the way from previous steps should make this part easy).
- Pull all the hose through to the crank motor opening except the hose needed to reach the caliper. At this point I installed the fittings to the caliper end of the hose and attached the hose to the caliper.
- cut a hole in the new hose end that comes out the crank motor opening, tie the string through this hole and then carefully feed the tube into the down tube, using the string to pull the tube up past batteries and out the opening near the top of the down tube.
- Carefully shape the hose in the crank motor area so it will pass under the motor and slowly slide/rock the crank motor back into place making sure no tubes or wires are pinched. When complete the new hose should be visible through the opening in the crank motor area
- Worst part is over (hopefully)
- Measure the hose length to have a nice gradual curve that brings the hose straight into the brake lever assembly while also allowing handle bar movement to the extremes without stressing the hose lever connection. Mark this length with some tape and then cut the hose with the Tektro tool or a very sharp knife and cutting board (worked for me).
- Install the plastic protector, compression nut, compression sleeve on hose.
- Install the barbed o-ring fitting in the end of the hose.
- Use the Tektro tool to push the fitting all the way into the hose. If you don't have the tool what worked for me was to wrap the hose in a thick fabric napkin, hold the hose tightly with pliers (protected by the napkin from direction crushing) and then tap the fitting into the hose using the flat surface of a wrench. It took several resets of the hose out of the pliers/napkin but each time the fitting was a bit further in.
- Once the fitting is in place, carefully insert the hose into the lever house until it seats deep in the housing, slide in the brass compression fitting and compression nut and tighten to recommended torque (see Tektro videos on this). Not having a torque wrench I did this until I felt the compression would have taken place which was not super tight...if it leaked I could always tighten more...
- Slide the plastic hose protector sleeve over the compression fitting nut. It should stay in place without taking much load/stress (since the tube now enters perfectly straight!)
- Use the 2 syringe method for this repair. There is far too much air in empty lines for the 1 syringe and bowl method I tried first. 20ml was enough fluid
- http:// https://youtu.be/hJfYiDSsjZ8 (Tektro brake bleed on youtube) is the procedure I followed. The key is to use the 2 syringe method (start with full on the caliber and empty on the brake lever assembly). Then cycle back and forth until a caliper to lever flow has no bubbles. For me this required 5 cycles!! Always do an extra cycle was the advice I got.
- Another thing I missed was to use my rotating bike stand to position the brake line as vertical as possible (and adjust the brake lever assembly to be level at the bleed port). With the bike angled like this bubble migrate to the top and out much more quickly.
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I am seeking information on whether the 36v Luna advanced charger is compatible with my bike. Specifically, I would like to know if it uses a barrel connector of a certain size. Unfortunately, there is very little helpful information provided on either page.
Can anyone kindly provide me with the relevant details or direct me to a reliable source of information? Thank you in advance.
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