Unboxing & assembly:
This bike is shipped in a box so some assembly required. If you are unsure on how to assemble the bike and also setup it up (checking the fork and shock pressure and adjusting the derailleur) you can watch the 2 unboxing videos we linked or you can also go to your local bike shop to have it assembled and setup for you.
Please make sure that you installed your wheel spacers, they go on each side of the hub.
WARNING:
Like any bike, NEVER use a power washer EVER (not even a jet on a garden hose). Never spray water on hubs, pivots and motor, hand wash only and rinse it with a spray bottle or weak rain type of jet from your garden hose. Never submerge the motor or battery in water. In fact we recommend you to only wash it using a rag and a water spray bottle that is it.
Get yourself a bottle of tri-flow oil and put some onto your frame pivots and also the motor spindle seals to avoid squeaks and creaks.
BEFORE RIDING
- Charge your battery
- Go over all the bolts before your first ride, especially the axle bolts, headset , stem & top cap Click here to see how to adjust the headset & stem. Also make sure to tighten the rear axle, see if the nuts at both ends of the axles are tight and that there is no play (side to side) on the cassette. if unsure please watch this video, it shows at the beginning the 2 nuts that keeps the axle/hub assembly together : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nf_K...ature=emb_logo
- Check if both brakes work fine and if the pads dont rub too much on the disks. If the brakes are spongy or if you have too much drag you will have to so a brake adjusment or bleeding.
- Check the tire pressure, too low and you can pinch the tube or rip the valve off due to slippage. Too much pressure and it wont ride good off road.
- Move over to the rear and check if the rear axle is solid & suspension components are secured. If the rear shock is loose t then you much tighten the nut to the torque spec (it's written on the nut)
- Check Spoke tension and recheck them after a few rides, they can come loose and you can rip nipples out of the rim or worst. If unsure how to properly tighten spokes and true a wheel, please take the wheel to a trusted local bike shop.
- Check the front fork and rear shock, verify that it has proper sag, if not add or remove air in them.
General info
Shifting: Take care not to shift under load, especially if going up steep hills, as this can be hard on your cassette and chain. Let off the throttle, or the PAS, then shift.
Display is a special display that works only with this bike, no other display will work for it. It uses CAN communication so it will not work with any BBSxx / Ultra series display. This display also has a USB port, a nice surprise. To change the basic settings of the display hold down + & -. To reset the trip odometer, select trip and hit + and - at the same time. Take care not to over tighten the mount on the display!
There is a key to lock/unlock the battery from the frame. The position of the key does NOT affect power. Please note that we do not currently have spare keys so take care not to lose the key. We recommend to store the key at home in a safe place. Without the key you can not remove the battery.
Please be careful when turning the key. It may make it drop out without much warning once you have turned the key, so be prepared for that by holding the battery as you turn the key.
Rear sprocket has 12 gears but is limited out so only 11 are used, as the 12th gear may skip due to chainline. You can adjust this to use this gear by changing the limit screw on the derailer but please note it will make it intermittently a bit noisy in this gear.
The battery is charged with a standard barrel. This means you can use something like the solderless barrel in conjunction with 48v Advanced Charger or 48v Mini to charge the bike if preferred over the included charger.
This bike has a temp sensor and high temp cutoff to prevent damage to the motor/controller.
At high temp it will scale back the power. If heat continues to rise, it will briefly shut down to protect the internals.
The chainring of this bike is a standard 32T 4 bolt 104 BCD Narrow-Wide chainring (stock chain length is 116 links). As such there are many aftermarket rings available for it if you want to go with a larger chainring, 38T will fit, 40T could fit depending on the brand you get. But 42T will be really close to rub on the chain stay so make sure to double check! You can change the chainring without removing the chainring spyder. A 38t will raise the top speed to around 28mph.
Stock chain is 116 links
If you install a Luna 42T 104 BCD ring you will need a new 126 link chain.
Tapered steerer, 1.125 x 1.5 headset
Headset ZS44 and ZS56 (zero stack)
31.8mm on the bars, with a length about 32"
Clamp on the stem is 31.8.
Seatpost diameter 30.9
Combining the front 32T and the 11T rear you should be able to reach close to 22mph at over 100rpm (crank rotation), see below spreadsheet of the speed in each gear VS various cadence RPM. So if you bought this bike for speed rather than Enduro (its intended purpose) then you will probably want to swap to a larger chainring!
DISPLAY
(Note for folks that ordered with the high performance ludicrous option: as with all luna ludicrous mods the display will show wattage as half of actual. If you want a accurate wattage reading, wire in a watt meter as demonstrated here)
This is the selector on the handlebars. Hold down power button for 5 seconds to turn on.
Here is a manual on how to use the M600 dashboard, just click on this link to open the manual. Thank you Brad for making it!
Optional 860C color display
Please click link to be redirected to the product listing for more info
Video walkthrough
Troubleshooting
Error codes:
-IF you are experiencing cut outs, error 30 or complete shutdown please follow these 3 steps.
1) The battery
This is the battery, showing a standard led power readout, on/off button, and barrel charge port. Make sure that the power button is pressed in and lighting up. Remove the battery and inspect the terminals.
2) Display connections:
2x Green harness wire that goes into the back of the display needs to be shoved in really hard, you should hear and feel a click or a pop, if you are having trouble turning it on be sure to check this and the other connectors. Recommended to unplug the connector before firmly plugging it back in.
On the DPC-240, you will need to push them in hard and make sure that they are perfectly aligned, there should only be a 2mm gap between the display bracket and the line on the connectors.
The gap between the bracket and the connector line should be 2mm, if it's not 2mm then take a long nose plier and grap the connector body and push on it (click here to see) . DO NO PUSH ON THE WIRES AT THE TIP OF THE CONNECTORS.
3) The motor main connections.
Remove the 2 allen head bolts that secures the bash-guard under the motor. On the left side of the motor you will find a plastic plate with 3 torx T10 screws, remove that plate to expose the connections. No need to remove the motor!
On the far left you have the main harness multipin connector, the middle (purple) is unused on the right one is the speedometer. Please check these 2 it's possible that one is halfway out an giving issues. Unplug, then press them in firmly, like the display connections. For an example of this solution see this page.
On on the far right you have the battery main power lead (yellow XT60), you can unplug this one and measure the voltage from the battery to be sure that you dont have a bad connection. With the power button to ON, you should be measure anything from 38V to 54.6V. (Again you don't have to remove the motor from the bike you can do all this with the motor on the bike)
Tip: You can use a long nose plier covered with tape to push in the connectors into the motor., The connector should have a 4mm gap between the case and the connector line.
Error 21H or erratic speed reading?
Please make sure that the magnet is properly aligned with the sensors
Advanced troubleshoot
You tried all 3 steps and still no power?
Make sure that you have voltage going out of the battery , you can measure the voltage from the XT60 like explained in step 3 of the basic troubleshooting or you can measure the voltage from the battery direct. I recommend you start from the XT60 first. If you have voltage there it means the battery is likely fine! IF you dont then you will have to remove the battery and measure from the terminals under the pack.
With the battery turned ON, just stick your multimeter probes in to the 2 outside terminals (the inner ones are not connected),
A) if you don't have any voltage then maybe your inner battery connector got unplugged. Jsut remove the 4 screws from the top and make sure the connector are plugged in.
DO the same at the bottom of the battery you should have a XT60 connector there.
B) You have power from the battery but your are not measuring anything going into the motor Or the display power up and then just quits right away? please remove the battery cradle and inspect the back of the male terminal, make sure the no wire came loose or pulled out.
If you have the Fisher Fab house LED it should look like this
Note for the Fisher LED, if you light and motor/display do not power up then start with unplugging this yellowfins connector (XT30) and try again.
If you have a broken connection (and not sure how to fix it) or a battery that still does not work after inspecting the connections, please open a support ticket at support@lunacycle.com
Battery is not charging / BMS is in fault
When you connect the charger to a battery that is not at 100% SOC (state of charge), the charger status LED should be red not green. If it's green that means the charger thinks the battery is charged. So what can be the problem?
1) Charger is defective
2)Charge port is broken (a wire is disconnected from the back, or the - tab or +pin are damaged)
3) BMS is in fault.
1) So make sure that the battery is still working, so plug it in the bike and see if it still works. If it does not work go back to the section above this.
The first step would be to rule out the charger, so if you have another 48V Li-ion charger you can try it, if you have a 52V charger you can also try it but only for a few seconds as you don't want to go over the 54.6V limit. Or you can try this charger on another ebike or 48V battery (if you have access to it). If you don't the best way to know if it's working is to do a jumpstart on the discharge, that can do 2 things, first it can clear a BMS fault (#3) and it will confirm that the charger is good or bad
Jumpstart procedure
Se have a in depth guide on general battery issue and if you click the following link it will take you to it, just scroll down to step 2.2 and it will show you how to do it on a battery that is pretty similar to the X1 . Click here to be redirected
All you need is t pieces of wires to be able to link the battery to the charge port. IT is easier if you have 2 set of hands.. If not what I do is tape up the wires to the charger barrel end and work on the battery with my 2 hands. Remember, this is safe but only charge for a few seconds... you are bypassing the BMS charging protections by doing this. If the charger works, go to step #2.. if the charger does not work, it means the charger is likely bad!
This is the polarity of the connector, battery in front of you, back facing you , connector at the bottom, the right pin is the positive and ground on the left. You can use a multimeter to be sure!
Polarity of the charger barrel end
This is a shark battery but it's pretty much the exact same on your X1 battery, same kind of terminal (except the positive is on the left on the shark) and same charger
2) Charger does work fine on the discharge connector
That means the issue is in the battery, it can be simply that the wires inside the battery top are not making contact with the back side of the female port. So open the battery top and inspect the wiring. Can be something easy to spot. Have a look at the 2 first pictures of the advanced troubleshooting section (just scroll up a bit) you will have 2 wires going to the barrel end, see if one is detached.
If you have a multimeter best would be to poke the insulation of these 2 wires to measure the voltage, you should have the exact same voltage that you have at the discharge connector were you did the jumpstart. If you do have the same voltage then that can be a confirmation that the actual charge port is bad, in this case we case help you, you just need to open a support ticket (if you already have one open just reply to us)
If you don't have any voltage reading that means the BMS is in fault, likely a permanent fault because you just did a reset with the jumpstart. in this case open a support ticket (if you already have one open just reply to us)
Mechanical troubleshooting
Rear wheel fells loose, cassette wobbling side to side:
If your rear wheel or rear hub feels loose or rear wheel is wobbly slightly, don't panic and watch this video, it's just likely the cone nut on the disak side that gotten loose. And while you're at it inspect the inside of the hub and bearings. This video is from Joel a Luna employee.
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Headset is loose, fork rattles and/or and cannot tighten the top cap more?:
The X1 does not use a a standard star nut pressed into the fork steerer tube, it uses an expansion plug (AKA wedge plug or compression plug). Over time the wedge nut can loosen and move up the steerer tube. All you need to do is to adjust it a little down further.
Instead or explaining how these work and how to adjust it and tighten the headset just watch one of these 2 videos that explains how to adjust it. It will fix your issue!!!
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Removing the motor
Removing the motor is pretty easy, no special tools required.
Remove bash guard (4x hex bolts )
Remove plastic cover on non drive side (3x torx bolts T10)
Remove the chainring spider if you need to remove it, do it now because it will be way harder to remove it later.
Remove chainring 4x bolts (if you didn't already removed the spider /chainring bracket )
Remove the 3 mounting bolts (5mm hex and 10mm socket.
Motor will drop down . ( 3 plugs go into the side of motor)
The connectors directly on the bare motor. Check the connection here during troubleshooting in addition to the harness.
How to remove the chainring bracket (AKA Spider) from the motor (if you must open the motor for service):
This is recessed so a typical ring spanner will not work. A socket style bottom bracket tool for screw in bearing cups does the job. This tool will work: Bike Hand YC-29BB-2A as well as YC-29BB. Bafang socket tools will also work. A chain whip is needed to hold the chainring when removing the locking nut. The lockring is reverse or right hand-threaded, so you must turn it clockwise to remove it.
We have a video on how to remove the motor to change the gear with a PEEK silent gear. This might help you remove the motor from the bike
Note: that you do not have to remove the spider (as seen at the 0:23 mark) if you do not have the deep splined socket tool. You only need to remove the spider if you are opning the motor
IF you need to remove the chainring from the spider please take a look at this video
Drivetrain
Accessing the freehub in the rear hub:
Its real easy to open. Remove cassette. Its a 12mm allen on non drive, 17mm wrench flat on drive.
Advanced controller programming:
This drive cannot be programmed like the other Bafang mid-drives unfortunately. It uses the Bafang dealer tool called the BESST. IT can only can flash firmware and change a couple minor settings.
Also changing the controller will require a BESST tools with dealer access to calibrate the new controller to the motor
CLICK THE PICTURE TO GET THE ONLINE TUTURIAL ON HOW TO USE IT
Customer reviews and unboxing videos:
(please note early adopters had some included swag as a thank you; tshirt, bottle, handwritten thank you etc. This is not something currently included with later production runs)
Dan's unboxing:
Support notes: in Dan's video were he install the right pedal he says turn counter clockwise... it's not counterclockwise but clockwise like he did on the video!
Brad's unboxing:
Brad's dropper seat post fix :
Brad's size comparison to a 26" standard MTB
Dan's noise testing
Dan's friend test ride
*Staff note: the videos we linked are from some customers of ours (Dan and Brad), they were not paid or asked to do this, we simply reached out to him to ask permission after the videos were posted on youtube.
Mods
This is a 3D printable mount for Upstand or Corki bike stand
Attached Files
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