Unboxing & assembly:
This bike is shipped in a box so some assembly required. If you are unsure on how to assemble the bike and also setup it up (checking the fork and shock pressure and adjusting the derailleur) you can watch the 2 unboxing videos we linked or you can also go to your local bike shop to have it assembled and setup for you.
Please make sure that you installed your wheel spacers, they go on each side of the hub.
BEFORE RIDING
- Charge your battery
- Go over all the bolts before your first ride, especially the axle bolts, headset , stem & top cap Click here to see how to adjust the headset & stem.
- Check if both brakes work fine and if the pads dont rub too much on the disks. If the brakes are spongy or if you have too much drag you will have to so a brake adjusment or bleeding.
- Check the tire pressure, too low and you can pinch the tube or rip the valve off due to slippage. Too much pressure and it wont ride good off road.
- Move over to the rear and check if the rear axle is solid & suspension components are secured. If the rear shock is loose t then you much tighten the nut to the torque spec (it's written on the nut)
- Check Spoke tension and recheck them after a few rides, they can come loose and you can rip nipples out of the rim or worst. If unsure how to properly tighten spokes and true a wheel, please take the wheel to a trusted local bike shop.
- Check the front fork and rear shock, verify that it has proper sag, if not add or remove air in them.
General info
Display is a special display that works only with this bike, no other display will work for it. It uses CAN communication so it will not work with any BBSxx / Ultra series display. This display also has a USB port, a nice surprise. To change the basic settings of the display hold down + & -. To reset the trip odometer, select trip and hit + and - at the same time. Take care not to over tighten the mount on the display!
There is a key to lock/unlock the battery from the frame. The position of the key does NOT affect power. Please note that we do not currently have spare keys so take care not to lose the key. We recommend to store the key at home in a safe place. Without the key you can not remove the battery.
Please be careful when turning the key. It may make it drop out without much warning once you have turned the key, so be prepared for that by holding the battery as you turn the key.
Rear sprocket has 12 gears but is limited out so only 11 are used, as the 12th gear may skip due to chainline. You can adjust this to use this gear by changing the limit screw on the derailer but please note it will make it intermittently a bit noisy in this gear.
The battery is charged with a standard barrel. This means you can use something like the solderless barrel in conjunction with 48v Advanced Charger or 48v Mini to charge the bike if preferred over the included charger.
This bike has a temp sensor and high temp cutoff to prevent damage to the motor/controller.
At high temp it will scale back the power. If heat continues to rise, it will briefly shut down to protect the internals.
The chainring of this bike is a standard 32T 4 bolt 104 BCD Narrow-Wide chainring (stock chain length is 116 links). As such there are many aftermarket rings available for it if you want to go with a larger chainring, 38T will fit, 40T could fit depending on the brand you get. But 42T will be really close to rub on the chain stay so make sure to double check! You can change the chainring without removing the chainring spyder. A 38t will raise the top speed to around 28mph.
Stock chain is 116 links
If you install a Luna 42T 104 BCD ring you will need a new 126 link chain.
1,1/8" steerer
31.8mm on the bars, with a length about 32"
Clamp on the stem is 31.8.
Combining the front 32T and the 11T rear you should be able to reach close to 22mph at over 100rpm (crank rotation), see below spreadsheet of the speed in each gear VS various cadence RPM. So if you bought this bike for speed rather than Enduro (its intended purpose) then you will probably want to swap to a larger chainring!
DISPLAY
This is the selector on the handlebars. Hold down power button for 5 seconds to turn on.
Here is a manual on how to use the M600 dashboard, just click on this link to open the manual. Thank you Brad for making it!
Optional 860C color display
Please click link to be redirected to the product listing for more info
Video walkthrough
Troubleshooting
IF you are experiencing cut outs, error 30 or complete shutdown please follow these 3 steps.
1) The battery
This is the battery, showing a standard led power readout, on/off button, and barrel charge port. Make sure that the power button is pressed in and lighting up. Remove the battery and inspect the terminals.
2) Display connections:
2x Green harness wire that goes into the back of the display needs to be shoved in really hard, you should hear and feel a click or a pop, if you are having trouble turning it on be sure to check this and the other connectors. Recommended to unplug the connector before firmly plugging it back in.
3) The motor main connections.
On the left side of the motor you will find a plastic plate with 3 torx screws, remove that plate to expose the connections.
On the far left you have the main harness multipin connector, the middle (purple) is unused on the right one is the speedometer. Please check these 2 it's possible that one is halfway out an giving issues. Unplug, then press them in firmly, like the display connections. For an example of this solution see this page.
On on the far right you have the battery main power lead (yellow XT60), you can unplug this one and measure the voltage from the battery to be sure that you dont have a bad connection. With the power button to ON, you should be measure anything from 38V to 54.6V.
Error 21H or erratic speed reading?
Please make sure that the magnet is properly aligned with the sensors
Advanced troubleshoot
You tried all 3 steps and still no power?
Make sure that you have voltage going out of the battery , you can measure the voltage from the XT60 like explained in step 3 of the basic troubleshooting or you can measure the voltage from the battery direct. I recommend you start from the XT60 first. If you have voltage there it means the battery is likely fine! IF you dont then you will have to remove the battery and measure from the terminals under the pack.
With the battery turned ON, just stick your multimeter probes in to the 2 outside terminals (the inner ones are not connected),
A) if you don't have any voltage then maybe your inner battery connector got unplugged. Jsut remove the 4 screws from the top and make sure the connector are plugged in.
DO the same at the bottom of the battery you should have a XT60 connector there.
B) You have power from the battery but your are not measuring anything going into the motor. In this case please remove the battery cradle and inspect the back of the male terminal, make sure the no wire came loose or pulled out.
If you have the Fisher Fab house LED it should look like this
Note for the Fisher LED, if you light and motor/display do not power up then start with unplugging this yellowfins connector (XT30) and try again.
If you have a broken connection (and not sure how to fix it) or a battery that still does not work after inspecting the connections, please open a support ticket at support@lunacycle.com
Removing the motor
Removing the motor is pretty easy, no special tools required.
Remove bash guard (4x hex bolts )
Remove plastic cover on non drive side (3x torx bolts T10)
Remove chainring 4x bolts (not necessary to remove spider /chainring bracket )
Remove the 3 mounting bolts (5mm hex and 10mm socket.
Motor will drop down . ( 3 plugs go into the side of motor)
The connectors directly on the bare motor. Check the connection here during troubleshooting in addition to the harness.
How to remove the chainring bracket (AKA Spider) from the motor (if you must open the motor for service):
This is recessed so a typical ring spanner will not work. A socket style bottom bracket tool for screw in bearing cups does the job. This tool will work: Bike Hand YC-29BB-2A as well as YC-29BB. Bafang socket tools will also work. A chain whip is needed to hold the chainring when removing the locking nut. The lockring is reverse or right hand-threaded, so you must turn it clockwise to remove it.
We have a video on how to remove the motor to change the gear with a PEEK silent gear. This might help you remove the motor from the bike
Note: that you do not have to remove the spider (as seen at the 0:23 mark) if you do not have the deep splined socket tool. You only need to remove the spider if you are opning the motor
IF you need to remove the chainring from the spider please take a look at this video
Drivetrain
Accessing the freehub in the rear hub:
Its real easy to open. Remove cassette. Its a 12mm allen on non drive, 17mm wrench flat on drive.
Advanced controller programming:
This drive cannot be programmed like the other Bafang mid-drives unfortunately. It uses the Bafang dealer tool called the BESST. If you get your hand on it with a dealer license you can but you wont be able to change anything as you would need the firmware file. So don't buying one!
Also changing the controller will require a BESST tools with dealer access to calibrate the new controller to the motor
Customer reviews and unboxing videos:
Dan's unboxing:
Support notes: in Dan's video were he install the right pedal he says turn counter clockwise... it's not counterclockwise but clockwise like he did on the video!
Brad's unboxing:
Brad's dropper seat post fix :
Brad's size comparison to a 26" standard MTB
Dan's noise testing
Dan's friend test ride
*Staff note: the videos we linked are from some customers of ours (Dan and Brad), they were not paid or asked to do this, we simply reached out to him to ask permission after the videos were posted on youtube.
Attached Files
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