Luna X-1 Enduro FS ebike MANUAL

[Musky]

Thank you Mike Eatough for the seat post advice. Took it apart again and tided up the cable with a little bit of lube and it works great now. Only need a cable extension for the display and everything will be perfect!

[Ramipril]

Hi all. I have not thought of a solution yet to get a better seal on the rubber flap that covers the charge port to ensure that it stays closed. I went on another ride today and took this photo. Is anyone else having this happened to them?

[bradleyland]

I'm running into the same now that the weather has cooled off. I think I'm going to add a dab of silicone sealant to one edge, so that it's a tighter fit.

[bradleyland]

A little smear of black silicone on one edge of the cover did the trick. It fits nice and snug now and still looks factory. You don't need a full "layer" on there or anything. Just a smear down one edge did it for me.

[Ramipril]

Perfect! I'm going to try it. Thanks for the idea!

[Robocam]

Just tried a 42T narrow-wide chainring. I'm pleased to report that the pedal assist does not stop at 25mph. I got it up to 30mph.

[ppanda]

This is really good info.

[steelersmb]

Did you have to lengthen the chain? Which chainring did you purchase?

[Robocam]

I used a new Sram NX 12-speed chain.

https://smile.amazon.com/SRAM-Eagle-12-Speed-Chain-Links/dp/B07DQTLDJ5

I used this chainring, but I think a 40T is a safer size.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Narrow-Wide-Round-Oval-Chainring-Chain-Ring-BCD-96-104mm-32-34-36-38-40-42T-bk/253388550320?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=552552288409&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Here's the 40T I purchased.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MTB-Bicycle-Round-Chainwheel-32-40T-Chainring-Bike-Crankset-Single-Plate-104BCD/372714096813?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=641522370108&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[getRIGHT]

I'm pleased to report that the pedal assist does not stop at 25mph. I got it up to 30mph.

That's awesome.

[ppanda]

Hi guys couple of questions regarding this bike.

1) How long does the battery take to charge full from empty?
2) How many miles does the battery last if you have a LUDI version?
3) Given that the Ludi version supplies more torque... I was wondering how useful this really is? Is the Regular version not good enough for hills? What I am trying to find out is how much or in which situations would the Ludi version excel from the non ludi option and by how much. Because the regular version would get considerable more range given half the current draw.

[ppanda]

Thank you guys

[bradleyland]

1) How long does the battery take to charge full from empty?

Paxtana covered this well. With the included 2.5A charger, I've never had to charge the battery for more than 3 hours to get it to !54V. I generally don't bother to leave it on until the charger light turns green, because it's better for your battery to charge to 80% or 90%. Most of my rides are only a few (7-10) miles, so I don't need the full capacity.

2) How many miles does the battery last if you have a LUDI version?

This is an almost impossible question to answer. It 100% depends upon what kind of riding you're doing. If you're riding uphill the entire way your range will be 1/10th what you'd get on level ground. You kind of have to test the bike out on the trails that you'll ride and see what you get. For example, I'm in Florida where we have essentially zero elevation, but the trails are soft and sandy. I have the Ludi version and I ride in PAS 2 or 3, with the rare occasion where I crank it up to 4/5. If I'm 100% trail riding, I get around 15 miles out of a full charge to down around 25%. That's if I'm using a lot of PAS 3. I'm sure I could double that by dropping to PAS 2.

3) Given that the Ludi version supplies more torque... I was wondering how useful this really is? Is the Regular version not good enough for hills? What I am trying to find out is how much or in which situations would the Ludi version excel from the non ludi option and by how much. Because the regular version would get considerable more range given half the current draw.

I like having the extra power when I need it. There are a couple of sandy climbs that make good use of PAS 4. They're climbs that I simply cannot make on my own (on my old hardtail MTB). I can make it in PAS 3, but PAS 4 makes it a non-issue. I really only use PAS 5 with throttle-only. It's a lot of power, and honestly I don't use it that much. Consider that an high-level cyclist can sprint to around 1,600W. Most people are lucky to generate 800W while sprinting. So the base version is about as powerful as an average person in a sprint, and the Ludi version (at 2,000W) is about as powerful as an olympic level sprinter. Whether you want/need that power level is up to you.

Keep in mind that your range has everything to do with what you ask of the bike. If you keep a Ludi bike in PAS 2/3, you'll still get good range. You can also change the PAS levels to 9, which gives you even more granularity. The Ludi version doubles the current, so you just run half the PAS and it's equivalent to the non-Ludi. The benefit is that the extra power is there when/if you need/want it.

[Robocam]

I don't think the Ludicrous version affects battery life significantly unless you're climbing hills for a long time at maximum speed. I hooked up a current meter to mine, and what I learned from it is that it spends most of the time at non-Ludicrous power levels. Keep in mind that the Ludicrous modification just doubles the current limit. It doesn't double the current to the motor. What this means is that the motor will draw Ludicrous levels of current only when it's heavily loaded, and if you don't want it to use that much power, just use a lower assist level. Here's the video with the power meter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YB7oNEtbNI&t

[JimmyN]

Hi guys couple of questions regarding this bike.

1) How long does the battery take to charge full from empty?
2) How many miles does the battery last if you have a LUDI version?
3) Given that the Ludi version supplies more torque... I was wondering how useful this really is? Is the Regular version not good enough for hills? What I am trying to find out is how much or in which situations would the Ludi version excel from the non ludi option and by how much. Because the regular version would get considerable more range given half the current draw.

Just because you have the Ludi upgrade doesn't mean you have to run on high power all the time (although you probably will because it's fun) you can keep it in the lower settings for long distance. There is an old saying "it's better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it" I think it comes from camping or back packing.

[ppanda]

Just because you have the Ludi upgrade doesn't mean you have to run on high power all the time (although you probably will because it's fun) you can keep it in the lower settings for long distance. There is an old saying "it's better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it" I think it comes from camping or back packing.

I was under the impression Ludi is always on no matter which level you are at... it just doubles the peak current at any level?

[Robocam]

You are correct. There is no way to turn off or disable the Ludicrous modification. The Ludicrous modification doubles the current limit, but if the motor is not drawing at the limit, it won't feel any different compared to the non-Ludicrous model.

[JimmyN]

I was under the impression Ludi is always on no matter which level you are at... it just doubles the peak current at any level?

that's correct but at lower levels the current flow is very low. I have the Ludi upgrade and level 1 is hard to detect, I can feel it but it's very subtle.

[ppanda]

So the non ludi vs ludi version side to side if you pedal at the same assist level I guess the difference would be that you would have to apply less effort to get more of a assist then a non ludi version?

[JimmyN]

Pretty much. The Ludi controllers are programed in the US by the tec's at Luna, there has been some discussion about the programing being a little inconsistent, some people have reported level 1,2 and 3 seem pretty linier tn their power progression then you get to level 3 and above and you can really feel the power increase, I think I would agree for the most part, maybe they did that on purpose so for the riders that were concerned about power consumption they could stay in the lower settings. I can imagine the programing is quite complex and took quite a bit of tweaking, in fact I hope to see a program flash in the near future to address some of the anomalies people have pointed out. overall I'm happy with my bike.

[Robocam]

A motor only draws the current it wants at any given voltage. You can't make it draw more than it wants. The controller only limits what the motor draws. The Ludi doubles the limit, but when the motor doesn't demand more than the limit, the current won't be double.

[Mike Eatough]

Has anyone had their motor apart & noticed there isn't a bearing of any kind to support the end of the rotors helical gear. The bbshd has a cartridge ball bearing in this spot. I can't
imagine how it's ok like that but it seems to be fine

[JimmyN]

I thought there was a needle bearing? I haven't had one apart yet but here is a teardown video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muSNIUXNNaQ

[Mike Eatough]

Ther is no bearing evident on the teardown video (to support the end of the rotor gear) mine runs fine, but
I just don't understand how the (rather delicate-looking) shaft survives? I'm obviously missing something!

[JimmyN]

Did you have the rotor all the way out? I've seen a video of the ultra (M620) and it looked like the rotor had a bearing at both ends but the helical gear extended out past the bearing, if that makes sense? so in the video we wouldn't be able to see the bearing because it's under the helical gear? I'm just guessing, it seems hard to believe they wouldn't support the end of the rotor.

[JimmyN]

Did you have the rotor all the way out? I've seen a video of the ultra (M620) and it looked like the rotor had a bearing at both ends but the helical gear extended out past the bearing, if that makes sense? so in the video we wouldn't be able to see the bearing because it's under the helical gear? I'm just guessing, it seems hard to believe they wouldn't support the end of the rotor.

[Mike Eatough]

I agree it's hard to believe there is no bearing, that's why I made the post. I had the rotor & drive gears all the way out for re-greasing. There is no bearing in mine. I was hoping others or maybe even Luna had stripped the motor, Cmon "Paxtana" chip in here.

[JimmyN]

What supports the gear end of the rotor? a bushing?

[Mike Eatough]

The end of the shaft has a weird shape, like a round doorknob, it locates in a hole where you'd expect to see a bearing, but it's just a plain hole as far as I can see. the hole seems larger than the end of the shaft. I just wondered if anyone else had stripped their motor down to regrease & noticed this feature. I'm sure the design is fine, I'm just not smart enough to understand it. Mine has 300 hard miles already without issue.

[steelersmb]

Has anyone made adjustments to make the 12th gear work? If so, how do you do that? I'm kind of new and learning about bikes.

Thanks.

[350XC-F]

Has anyone made adjustments to make the 12th gear work? If so, how do you do that? I'm kind of new and learning about bikes.

Thanks.

I tried for like 20 minutes, I could get it to engage, but it skipping, I had no luck at all, just gave up, will have to lean on some of my more knowledgeable Mountain biking friends to help me!

[Mike Eatough]

Adjust "B" screw & "H" limit screw as for any other bike.
Optimize the "B" screw adjustment for max chain wrap around the smallest sprocket while not causing pulleys to rub in bigger cogs (you will know rub when you hear it).
Not to be smart but its no different than any other bike with a derailleur. There are a million youtube vids to show how.
I adjusted mine & it does not skip in12th gear, even under max Ludi power & max pedaling. (it may start to skip when it gets worn)