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Luna X-1 Enduro FS ebike MANUAL

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  • jjdicecco
    commented on 's reply
    Thank you so much...I appreciate that info....So that hardware kit will work for me also?

  • KTMracer63
    commented on 's reply
    Yes you'll need to install two Fox eyelet kits, 1 for each end of shock, however, you'll still continue using the 2 top mount silver pivot bushings.

    From JensonUSA....I recently ordered/installed the DHX2 coil spring 210mm x 55mm...just waiting on proper spring weight replacement.
    The hardware sent is Fox Shox Polymer Du Bushing Reducer Kit, Aluminum, 803-03-166, 8mm X 22.20mm
    ITEM # RS242E00 2 of 2 shipped
    Last edited by KTMracer63; 04-13-2021, 02:06 AM.

  • jjdicecco
    commented on 's reply
    Hello eskachig ...Did you have to buy any new hardware for the shock?

  • jjdicecco
    replied
    Hello everyone... has anyone installed a different rear shock in the bike... I wanted to upgrade to the FOX FLOAT X2 Factory Rear Shock - Standard 7.875 x 2.25", 2-PositionLever, Kashima Coat... I was wondering if the hardware had to be changed?

    Leave a comment:


  • KTMracer63
    commented on 's reply
    Here's the funny part....installed the 2.1 Cartridge with the new C1 air spring (170mm) late last night.
    This morning, I first tested the stem with the smaller shim removed from below the stem...couldn't get rid of this play/knock from the headset.

    I then put the smaller shim back in under the stem, made sure everything was torqued properly. The play/knock disappeared.
    Btw...the 2.1 cartridge and 170mm upgrade made a significant improvement to the geometry of the bike (easier to loft, not so front end heavy), obviously a 10mm increase in travel with a tad more slack.....immediate thing I noticed was better steering/turning, with the stock 160mm air spring the bike had too much quirky over-steer for my liking. Honestly, still don't know if I like the stock 35mm fork/stanchions with this heavy of a bike (170mm is absolute furthest travel I'd go)...for harder core riding would feel much more comfortable with a Rockshox Zeb (beefier front end).
    Last edited by KTMracer63; 04-11-2021, 10:06 PM.

  • ribeyesteaks
    commented on 's reply
    Actually, if you take off the stem riser, make sure you clamp all the way to the bottom.
    Last edited by ribeyesteaks; 04-11-2021, 04:29 PM.

  • Texasaj35
    commented on 's reply
    I just joined that group on FB. Yeah, it had hairline crack as visually inspecting it but broke off as I took it apart...then the other crumbled as I was trying to take a pic to post it. I do like the bike as it does have alot of power and less expensive than the name brand ones but its a headache when things falls apart.
    Last edited by Texasaj35; 04-11-2021, 12:26 PM.

  • ribeyesteaks
    commented on 's reply
    Still trying to figure out this forum format, but anyways, you're right. Better to err on the long side than short. I might get an angled stem to get an extra couple inches of height and change the ride geometry. It's fairly low and forward as it is. Losing the riser, like you said, will lower the bar. But, I think everyone should definitely check the hex screws for this red greasy film and wipe it off. Then add some loctite and retighten. The last thing you want is to lose control of your bike on a fast descent. My wrist is still hurting today, and I will have to wait till next weekend to ride again.

  • KTMracer63
    commented on 's reply
    Yep...one of the fixes I mentioned above, remove the smallest spacer below the steering stem....however, this lowers the bars, another band-aid fix.

    Bottom line, inspect fork tube height before riding....the top pinch bolt (in the pic) for the stem is actually "above" the compression plug cap.
    So the bike technically has 1 pinch bolt on the expansion plug....that's a major safety issue.

    Bottom line, if Luna's going to sell this bike with the 2 spacers underneath the steering stem, they need to better measure the cut location of the Fork Tube (with the 2 spacers) so to allow the 2 pinch bolts covering the compression plug. Otherwise, if a rider isn't technically competent with bikes...uhhhh, crashes possibly?

    Then again, why are we having to immediately address this single pinch bolt issue in the first place and having to make immediate band-aid fixes ???

    Moral to the story, a longer fork tube is much better than "too short".
    Last edited by KTMracer63; 04-11-2021, 10:03 AM.

  • ribeyesteaks
    commented on 's reply
    Just wondering, why not remove the stem riser below the handlebar to get a "full clamp"? As an aside, on my wife's bike, I removed the hex screws and noticed red lubricating material. I thought it was loctite, but the stuff is fairly greasy. Wonder what that stuff is supposed to be. I'm going to re torque all screws with loctite and maybe remove the stem riser.

  • KTMracer63
    replied
    Originally posted by ribeyesteaks View Post
    As an aside, on my first ride today, I took the bike down some fast downhill sections that are fairly rutty. Pretty hairy, and the bike was vibrating like mad. All of a sudden, the handle bar just flips around. I freak out even more as I start to pump the brakes. Then, the handlebar stem just becomes loose from the fork, and I'm like WTF?! I pretty much have no control over the bike, and I go down hard thinking I'm going to break a collarbone. Now, mind you, before the ride, I tightened the SHIT out of those hex screws beyond the torque spec. I'm REALLY surprised they still vibrated completely loose. Luckily, I packed my multi hex tool in my bag, but even my cheap Walmart e-MTB never failed on me like that on these mountains.

    Really not impressed, to be honest.
    Too low for my comfort level and a "safety issue" (1st pic)......the expander plug is even further below the hex head by about a .25", so the steering stem is not receiving "a full clamp" with the expansion plug.

    If the fork tube was cut a little bit higher enabling better clamping (2nd pic, this is with smaller spacer removed from below steering stem)...at this height, no extra spacer is needed below the top cap, however, the bar height just dropped.

    If Luna is cutting the fork tubes, this needs to be addressed ASAP.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by KTMracer63; 04-11-2021, 11:44 AM.

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  • KTMracer63
    commented on 's reply
    Discovered the probable cause/same issue last week with the steering head hardware and fork tube (cut/length)...

    This is a LUNA issue PAX was aware of last week (brought it to his attention)..going to send pics now (this is very dangerous)....whoever is cutting the latest Yari Fork Steering Tubes for the X1 frame needs a vision checkup....and cutting the fork steering tube too short which then sits too far below the top of the Steering Stem.

    This is very dangerous and can easily cause a limited plug clamp/press to the fork tube within the steering stem. Take the Steering Stem cap off and look how far down the top of clamp/plug sits...with spacers provided below stem, the top of clamp plug should sit 3 to 5mm below top of Steering Stem.

    Only solution I could come to was to remove the smallest of spacer below the the steering stem. This will lower the bars though, unfortunately.

    Luna should reimburse/replace with "higher rise bars" or a new Yari fork.
    Last edited by KTMracer63; 04-11-2021, 09:51 PM.

  • KTMracer63
    commented on 's reply
    You should join the Facebook X1 Riders group...substantial wealth of tech info, thankfully knew about this before receiving the bike.
    Luna should be able to replace that part for you....there are others that have received replacement parts.
    This issue was the "first item" addressed...then the 20 additional...LOL

    - This part is cheap-as-f*** made plastic
    - Gorillas at the factory are assembling this part to the bike with an Impact Driver initiating the stress to begin, then add the weight of a rattling battery.
    - VELCRO!!!, holds the battery much more secure (and in place)....applied to the inside battery compartment along with (when riding) using subtle velcro cinch strap wrap-around for peace-of-mind.

    Granted this bike is fun....but for harder core riding...the X1 really requires being disassembled and reassembled "properly".
    Last edited by KTMracer63; 04-11-2021, 08:31 AM.

  • ribeyesteaks
    replied
    As an aside, on my first ride today, I took the bike down some fast downhill sections that are fairly rutty. Pretty hairy, and the bike was vibrating like mad. All of a sudden, the handle bar just flips around. I freak out even more as I start to pump the brakes. Then, the handlebar stem just becomes loose from the fork, and I'm like WTF?! I pretty much have no control over the bike, and I go down hard thinking I'm going to break a collarbone. Now, mind you, before the ride, I tightened the SHIT out of those hex screws beyond the torque spec. I'm REALLY surprised they still vibrated completely loose. Luckily, I packed my multi hex tool in my bag, but even my cheap Walmart e-MTB never failed on me like that on these mountains.

    Really not impressed, to be honest.

    Leave a comment:


  • ribeyesteaks
    replied
    Originally posted by Texasaj35 View Post
    My Luna X1 Enduro only has 180 miles. I haven't washed it yet nor rode in the rain, only had it for 3 months. I now have the ERROR 30. I checked all connections and its attached but still has the error. Someone says its the display but I would hate to buy a display and the error will still be there. Anyone else have this problem and know a fix? I have a ride this Saturday and would hate to miss it.

    I have this same issue on a brand new bike. Took it out today, and it randomly keeps shutting down over and over. Dry as dirt up here. Then had an ERROR 30. So, Pax, I do have another bike with the same display. I feel like this is a wiring issue. But, I will swap tomorrow and ride again. What do you guys do for this issue? Replace the display, cables, etc??

    Leave a comment:

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