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Luna X-1 Enduro FS ebike MANUAL

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  • Texasaj35
    replied
    My Luna X1 Enduro only has 180 miles. I haven't washed it yet nor rode in the rain, only had it for 3 months. I now have the ERROR 30. I checked all connections and its attached but still has the error. Someone says its the display but I would hate to buy a display and the error will still be there. Anyone else have this problem and know a fix? I have a ride this Saturday and would hate to miss it.

    Leave a comment:


  • AZguy
    commented on 's reply
    % indicators are very rough

    Digital if at least 0.1V steps gives far more resolution and even if not that accurate but repeatable you'll get used to the numbers and they will provide much more useful meaning

    Remember that for a useful SOC reading the battery should be unloaded for a minute or two before reading

    Best is to get an amp-hour/watt-hour meter tho

  • Brian99
    commented on 's reply
    Correct me if I'm wrong here, but this is my limited experience so far (~50 miles on the odometer): I switch between V and % to compare, but I find % much more usable for me. Maybe partly because I'm used to that, since that's how I set my cars also (rather than mile remaining). I have not risked draining much below 50% yet. After the first charge where I went to 100% (and gave it time to balance the cells), With more experience, I will try to keep the daily average at 50% just like my cars, to maximize the battery life. BTW, my first ride, I had a few E20s or something, and turning the battery off and on each time, it recovered. I also use the indicator on the battery to compare to the display; this seems less accurate, but is handy during charging.
    I will experiment with lower charge levels eventually. In any case, my hypothesis is that percent may be accurate if you fully charge sometimes to balance the cells and reset the percent indicator.

  • KTMracer63
    commented on 's reply
    If you are referring to the shock mount hardware within the flip-chip, contact Luna, if that doesn't work, call Rockshox/SRAM (for Monarch Shock hardware), if that doesn't work then contact Melody with Dengfu in China.

  • jjdicecco
    commented on 's reply
    i was thinking of that also... unfortunately... me and my father in law stripped the bolt attempting last night...

  • 2wheelsanything
    commented on 's reply
    if you could remove the whole link and shock from the bike, then you might be able to hit it with more direct heat on that bolt you need and not have to worry about the frame-I just hate drilling bolts unless absolutely necessary.

  • jjdicecco
    commented on 's reply
    I did try a heat gun....as I'm afraid to get it to hot because of the carbon and ruining the paint.

  • 2wheelsanything
    replied
    Have you tried some heat on that bolt before you drill it?

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  • jjdicecco
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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    I'm looking for the horst link for the rear shock...This is the bracket/link that holds the rear shock(its the linkage that holds the circled bolt)...I am going to have to drill the bolt out to remove this bolt and want this part just in case it gets destroyed. please anyone that can guide me in the right direction or have one they are willing to sell.
    Last edited by jjdicecco; 04-06-2021, 04:49 AM.

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  • paxtana
    commented on 's reply
    Yes, that looks suitable.

  • KTMracer63
    commented on 's reply
    Thx Pax...are you referring to something like this?
    https://www.amazon.com/IFLYRC-Analyz...a-869602098620

  • paxtana
    replied
    Probably most straightforward to just wire in a watt meter. There is an example of someone doing this much earlier in this thread, he did a video showing it, I believe combined with an aftermarket 52 v battery if I remember correctly

    Leave a comment:


  • KTMracer63
    replied
    Originally posted by EL34 View Post

    I have checked the battery voltage with a multi meter
    The 860c voltage reading is good enough

    My point is to go by voltage, not %
    Voltage tells the exact story and % is who knows what % of what
    So why not try wiring something like this inline? would be similar to an hour meter that's stuck to the head tube area of a dirtbike.
    Just personal preference, I don't care for the 860...

    https://usa.banggood.com/36V-or-48V-...iABEgIFGPD_BwE
    Last edited by KTMracer63; 04-05-2021, 05:37 PM.

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  • neo
    replied
    Originally posted by EL34 View Post

    I have checked the battery voltage with a multi meter
    The 860c voltage reading is good enough

    My point is to go by voltage, not %
    Voltage tells the exact story and % is who knows what % of what
    What about folks that have the stock display not 860? How do we know the current voltage?

    Leave a comment:


  • JoboD’Hobo
    commented on 's reply
    I’ve just opened a ticket concerning a assist problem I’ve been having over the past month. At the beginning of a ride and during middle (all starting with a full charge), my assist would shut down (pedal assist motor whine could still be heard tho ((lite power?))) and I’d have to cycle the battery on/off to restore normal assist power. Throttle response was, however, present. I have 2 errors of 5 and 14; the “14” of which I can’t find reference to.

    Is the stock display purely an output? I’ve had lite condensation under my screen at the start of EVERY ride and attributed it to the Hawaiian climate...and the battery full green/red LEDs NEVER turn off or represent true battery charge state (unfortunately, i don’t have a volt meter and am relying off of a full charge or full ride scenario).
    Last edited by JoboD’Hobo; 04-05-2021, 12:04 PM. Reason: In addition:
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