It seems there is no way to make this bike street legal in the US other than removing throttle? It doesn't seem possible to program the display to change max speed from 28 to 20 mph to make it class 2.
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Luna X-1 Enduro FS ebike MANUAL
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From Luna's website: "This Ludicrous bike will have a 1-10 dial you will turn with a screwdriver, which will allow you to change the bike from street legal mode (600 watts) all the way up to 2000 watts (Ludicrous Mode) peak."
I have the ludicrous version but don't see this on my bike nor anyone talking about it here as far as the power adjustment. Luna did you drop this feature?
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Maybe it has something to do with the torque sensor, the way I understand it, it recognizes the energy the rider is inputting and responds accordingly, this system has always intrigued me and it sounds like Bafang did quite a bit of “tweaking” to get it right or at least close enough to ship. Maybe the program needs more work.
Originally posted by Zith18 View PostI took the bikes out on the trail with my wife. I was really excited and I really really wanted to like the bikes. I unfortunately there are just too many issues.
1) As discussed above, the noise was just very high and very off putting.
2) The power levels are weird. It felt like I was riding a poorly tuned prototype. Levels 1 and 2 are basically useless. I found them to be the same as riding a regular bike. Just enough power to make it feel like a normal bike. Then 3 is insanely powerful nearly the same as 4, 5, and boost. I could barely tell the difference between the upper levels. I really wanted a goldi locks level of power. Maybe with out the ludicrous upgrade 3 would have felt better. Either way it was either too low power to be useful (levels 1 and 2) under 100 watts on the display. Or waay too much, over 500 hundred watts on the display. I also tried the 9 level settings it was the same issue anything 4 or under was useless and anything over 5 was too much.
3) The cords in the display units won’t stay in. My wife’s came out 6 times during the ride and mine came out 8 times. I jammed them in as hard as a I can and still got periodic turn offs that required you to rejam the plugs. They never fell out but just came loose enough to lose connection
The above three issues together are a deal breaker for me. Combined with the seat post issues I will be sending them back :(
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I was deeply disappointed to have missed the presale by a few hours and have been anxiously waiting for the next opportunity. I almost put in my order this morning but I'm just too paranoid about the number of issues (noise, display, dropper seat, motor connections, PAS tuning) that have surfaced. This bike is beautifully designed with great components but seems like it might still be a work in progress. The price is fantastic but still a lot of money for a bike with resolutions to yet be found. The NOISE is just a deal killer for me. I will probably find myself pay more money but I'm going to wait for these problems to be resolved.
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Originally posted by Zith18 View Post500 watts is the minimum I could get when on 3 or higher. I also think it’s actually double that because of the ludicrous upgrade. I want 2000 watts when I want it. I enjoy the top end but I’d like to be able to climb and have more then two power options, super low or super high. Have you ridden this bike? I think if you take it out on the trail you will see what I mean.
I also switched the programming to the 9 power levels but that felt redundant as some levels were very similar and one ends up punching the power level button all the time. I will stick with the 5 power levels.
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Originally posted by paxtana View PostThe bare motor.
Removing the motor is pretty easy, no special tools required.
Remove bash guard (4x hex bolts )
Remove plastic cover on non drive side (3x torx bolts T10)
Remove chainring bolts (not necessary to remove spyder )
Remove the 3 mounting bolts (5mm hex and 10mm socket.
Motor will drop down . ( 3 plugs go into the side of motor)
The connectors directly on the bare motor. Check the connection here during troubleshooting in addition to the harness.
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From Kepler's thread linked earlier-
Q: "On another note, is there a tool to get the chainring off/on? Since the lockring is recessed the ultras ring spanner tool won't work."
A: "A socket style bottom bracket tool for screw in bearing cups does the job. A chain whip is needed to hold the chainring when removing the locking nut."
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Those might not be deep enough to clear the spindle but if anyone has tried it with success, I'd love to know for sure. Ooh, thanks Paxtana! I was trying to think of a way to loosen the lockring when I didn't have a sprocket on there, and I was baffled. I never thought to have a chainring on there while trying to remove the spider. Also, the lockring is reverse or right hand-threaded, so you must turn it clockwise to remove it.
Either of these will work. I bought the one at the bottom because Luna was out of stock.
Last edited by Robocam; 11-21-2019, 10:36 AM.
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So I purchased the standard version because most of my riding will be done on the street and maybe some light trails. I haven't ridden the bike much yet because I just got it two days ago but the noise level is not an issue for me. I also have an FLX Trail Bike that I bought for my son which has the same motor and I would say the noise is about the same. I'm wondering though if I made a mistake by getting the standard version.
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Can you help me understand more about why we cannot program it? Is it because the drive will only respond to Luna Cycle's custom firmware file, so that if I bought this tool, there is absolutely no way I will ever be able to program it? Is there no way someone else could provide me with a firmware file so that I can change settings? There are settings that I would really love to tweak.
Originally posted by paxtana View Post...Advanced controller programming:
This drive cannot be programmed like the other Bafang mid-drives unfortunately. It uses the Bafang dealer tool called the BESST. If you get your hand on it with a dealer license you can but you wont be able to change anything as you would need the firmware file. So don't buying one!
Also changing the controller will require a BESST tools with dealer access to calibrate the new controller to the motor
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The shop has declined to provide more information at this time. All I was told is that this is basically locked down due to some firmware that is needed and that some particular version of this tool would be needed which is apparently hard to come by, that it is all very limited access etc. I assume that it may be something proprietary is needed.
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I got down to the bottom of it I believe. So basically, Bafang is the only one that can actually change anything. All a dealer can do is request features, but Bafang ultimately edits the program and provides it to the dealer for flashing (uploading) onto the motor controller. Someone really needs to hack this drive so that we can program it =) But honestly, aside from a few minor personal preference-related things, I really like the way it's already programmed. The torque sensor feels really good.
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Jeebus, this guy posted in 4 forums before sorting the sound. The best part of not doing customer service work is no lompnger having these guys that whine across the internet before trying to solve with the seller.
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Hi All. First post!
I have an X-1 on order, with ludicrous. I have a few questions that's I am hoping to get a better understanding of.
1. With the ludicrous upgrade, the original Luna information page stated no throttle because "many new eBike riders tend to start out too hard in the wrong gear which is hard on the motor, controller and gear reduction". I was okay with not having a throttle because I'm a new'ish eBike rider. Therefore, now that ludicrous comes with a throttle, what a good gear to start out in, or put another way, how do I ensure I'm not pushing it too hard, say up a hill or something?
2. I read other posts about the speed being low for 2000w output. To help my new'ish understand, how does having 2000w help the rider if the power is not translated into speed? Does it have something to do with hill climbing? I did see another posts saying the bike is like a "mountain goat".
Thank you in advance! Looking forward to riding the bike!
Edits: spellingLast edited by Ramipril; 10-04-2019, 07:21 PM.
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1. Try pedaling it without power and seeing what gear you are in. If a particular gear on a particular incline is too hard for your legs, it's too hard for the motor and you should downshift.
2. Ludi doubles current. Current has basically nothing to do with speed, it's all about greater torque. Which would indeed help with hill climbing. That said, you could change the chainring and get more speed if you wanted to gear it more for commuting or something rather than its intended purpose (actual enduro riding)
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Technically increasing current increases power, and increased power means increased speed if the gearing allows it. In the case of the X1, even in the highest gear, the bike isn’t outputting all of its 2000W. In order to take advantage of the additional power, you need to gear it up by installing a larger front chainring. I just ordered one, and I will report how it behaves after I install it. There’s another user on Facebook that has installed a 38T chainring, and he reports reaching 28MPH. As far as I know, there really isn’t a downside to doing this. With a motor, a 32 going to a 50 is just too low to be useful in my opinion. Climbing anything at 6mph is too slow for me (that about how fast a Power Wheels goes!) :) but it would be great for pedaling without using the motor (such as when your battery runs out of power).
As far as how 2000 watts will be useful, it will allow you to accelerate faster. Think of it as the difference between a V6 and V8 Camaro. With more power, you can do everything faster.Last edited by Robocam; 10-06-2019, 12:20 AM.
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As far as the throttle goes,you'll get the feel for what gear you should be in. just go easy for a while, As far as the wattage relating to speed it's the same as most other geared motor vehicles, if you had a high horsepower Lamborghini in first gear it's only going to go so fast no matter how high the horse power is, wattage is just horsepower, higher gearing = higher speed if you have the wattage/horsepower to push it. people that want to go fast can change the gearing up to a point, those with the Ludi upgrade will theoretically be able to go faster.
Originally posted by Ramipril View PostHi All. First post!
I have an X-1 on order, with ludicrous. I have a few questions that's I am hoping to get a better understanding of.
1. With the ludicrous upgrade, the original Luna information page stated no throttle because "many new eBike riders tend to start out too hard in the wrong gear which is hard on the motor, controller and gear reduction". I was okay with not having a throttle because I'm a new'ish eBike rider. Therefore, now that ludicrous comes with a throttle, what a good gear to start out in, or put another way, how do I ensure I'm not pushing it too hard, say up a hill or something?
2. I read other posts about the speed being low for 2000w output. To help my new'ish understand, how does having 2000w help the rider if the power is not translated into speed? Does it have something to do with hill climbing? I did see another posts saying the bike is like a "mountain goat".
Thank you in advance! Looking forward to riding the bike!
Edits: spelling
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Originally posted by Scoonie View PostJeebus, this guy posted in 4 forums before sorting the sound. The best part of not doing customer service work is no lompnger having these guys that whine across the internet before trying to solve with the seller.
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What is the precise torque in NM of the Ludicrous version?
On Lunas' website they say the M600 has 95 NM of torque, which I assume they just took from Bafang's website. Given Ludi doubles the amps to 40 is it correct to conclude it has 95 x 2 or 190 NM of torque?
My wife has a Haibike with the Bosch Performance Line CX that has 75 NM of torque. Having ridden both I can say the X-1 with Ludi has at least 3 times the torque of the Bosch. That would put the Ludi at 225 NM. This is just estimates of course so does any know the actual NM of torque on the Ludi?
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I just got the chance to take my bike out and ride for a bit. I noticed that the front brake rotor is rubbing up against the brake. Is this anything to worry about?
Also, I'm a bit disappointed in Luna because I pre-ordered my bike months ago when it said there was no throttle for the ludicrous mode so I ordered the standard version. They decided to include the throttle now and I feel that they should have at least emailed people to let them know that a throttle is included now so I could have had the choice to change my selection.
Has anyone found a place to mount a water bottle?
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Are you saying the rotor is bent or warped in some way? If it's just rubbing loosen the bolts on the caliper until the caliper can move around, then pull the brake lever and have someone continue holding the lever while you tighten the bolts. When you pull the lever it auto centers so it's fairly straightforward.
The throttle decision was a freebie decision at the last minute while also getting the bikes out the door asap. The bikes were already past the first eta so that probably played a factor. Sorry about that. We might be able to coordinate with you on some sort of solution if you want to contact support@lunacycle.com attn: Gary so I can see what we can do to help.
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The rotor seems to be bent because when I ride I can see it and it looks warped. I may contact support about the other issue after I have a chance to ride some more.
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