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Luna X-1 Enduro FS ebike MANUAL

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    350XC-F / K442 - I started a thread over in the General section to have a place where we can talk about using the BESST tool and to share feedback on the different firmware options:

    https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...re-programming

    Comment


      Anyone know where I can get these quickly, crank arm retainer? I ordered some but they are over a week out. Be sure to check these, mine flew off yesterday with the crank arm.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        there's a brand called kresc on ebay that sells m15 crank bolts

      You don't have any at Luna shop?

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        We definitely have them at the luna shop. You said you wanted to get one quickly. If you do not need it quickly just let me know your order#. If you do need it quickly order an m15 crank bolt online and select a fast shipping option.

      Wondering if anyone has installed a Gearsensor unit (link below) on their X-1. From the description and some of the reviews, it looks like it could solve one half of the PAS lag problem, namely, the delay in motor cutoff when you stop pedaling, which can result in hard shifts in the higher PAS levels. (Yes, I've tried the goose-the-throttle-for-a-second technique, and found it an entirely unsatisfactory method) https://lunacycle.com/gearsensor-for-bafang-mid-drives/

      Comment


      • bengreens
        bengreens commented
        Editing a comment
        I don't know about a brake sensor connector on the M600, but the only brake sensor solution I could see offered by Luna (and I'm not looking it up to see if it was specifically intended for the X-1, as I have a pizza coming) involved using a hot glue gun or epoxy to affix the magnet or sensor to the brake lever area, and this did not enthuse me. Nor does the idea of applying brake (or pressure on brake lever) every time I want to shift.
        Last edited by bengreens; 12-08-2020, 06:23 PM.

      • bengreens
        bengreens commented
        Editing a comment
        I went ahead and ordered a Gearsensor tonight, along with the BESST tool and firmware files to flash my X-1 to 14.6, or whichever of the three firmwares offered works best. Will post Gearsensor evaluation once it's installed and bike is up and running. At which point I'll also be selling my first X-1, the medium frame. Lots of rain in the forecast . . . hope the Christmas rush doesn't slow shipments too much!

      • MTNYC
        MTNYC commented
        Editing a comment
        no break sensor on the X-1

      Haha! I started a ticket. We will see

      Comment


        I’ve seen a few people mention creaking/popping from their X1 frames...

        Your situation may vary, but here’s what I did to correct mine.... (my wife’s small does not creak or pop, my large did from the first ride)

        I removed the rear shock (release all air pressure first and support the bike in the air) and lubed the two bolts that secure the shock to the frame. I used a white lithium grease (from my research it is carbon fiber safe). I put the grease on everything associated with those two bolts / two ends of the shock. The creaking and popping is gone.

        The two bolts had a few spots that indicated some light wear so I made sure that was well greased. I also made sure not to over tighten the bolts after reassembly. It can bind the shock...

        Hope this helps someone.

        Comment


          Should I believe build-in battery led meter or my display?
          When my display shows that battery is at 50% my battery led meter shows only one green light(10-15%?) Which is more accurate battery led meter or the display?

          Comment


            The display can read any integer percentage, 0-100%, believe the battery has 4 green LEDs, one red, (5 total) so possibly ~20% per LED? (unless there is reference somewhere that one green means 10-15% left??) So the display definitely has the edge in precision. Even if the LEDs are more accurate, they only have 4-5 key steps (LED on or off) so you could easily be 'in between' a step where the display is showing a pretty good representation of capacity, but the +/- 10% range hasn't been met to trigger the next LED.

            If the battery shows "one green" (and presumably the one red?) that might suggest at least 40%(?) maybe even close to 50%, with the possibility charging over 50% might tend to turn on the next LED, for three total... red, green, green, possibly indicating you're in the 60% neighborhood?

            Guess two ways to test would be to charge the battery just a bit, see if ~60% trips the next LED. Or take a battery voltage measurement and see about where you are in the charge. That could act as a referee to see if the display or LED is closer to the truth.

            Comment


              Just a note on meters displaying %.
              % is pretty useless because you don't know what the % is based on

              Li-On's can be charged to 4.2 volts
              From what I have seen on my X1 , the % is not based on that figure
              You can be showing 100% even as the voltage dips down towards 3.6 volts

              Battery voltage tells the whole story and is way more accurate

              The 860C meter upgrade can display voltage

              Comment


              • alosip
                alosip commented
                Editing a comment
                Was it worth $90 in your opinion to upgrade the display?

              • bengreens
                bengreens commented
                Editing a comment
                Absolutely worth the $ for the better display, IMO. For one thing, I can now see the readout while wearing polarized sunglasses, and can make out most of the information without squinting (ie, bigger characters). Resetting the tripmeter is a breeze (just hold down + and - for a few seconds). I do worry about breaking the thing in a crash, however, due to its size and mounting position. But I'm 65 now and should probably worry more about breaking myself.

              alosip

              There is no comparison. The 860C meter is way nicer than the stock meter.
              You can see how nice it is in my video here

              Comment


              • bengreens
                bengreens commented
                Editing a comment
                Wow! Perfect video to watch full-screen and lose yourself on a cold, wet, gloomy Portland afternoon.

              Originally posted by EL34 View Post
              alosip

              There is no comparison. The 860C meter is way nicer than the stock meter.
              You can see how nice it is in my video here
              It's nicer but I wish the clock kept the correct time.

              Comment


                Originally posted by steelersmb View Post
                It's nicer but I wish the clock kept the correct time.
                Hard to say if it is all of the 860C meters?

                I have a 750C meter from Luna and it loses time also.


                Comment


                  Does anyone knows what is the battery life expectancy of the battery if you use a smart charger Luna sells for $99 to charge slowly to 80% vs. charger that came with the bike and charge to 100% every time?

                  Comment


                  • bradleyland
                    bradleyland commented
                    Editing a comment
                    There are too many factors to give a hard number, but charging a lithium battery to 80% consistently can nearly double the total cycle count (ref 1). That makes charging to 80% a good return on investment, but you will sacrifice per-trip range, of course. Whether or not that works for you depends on your rides.

                    (1) https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...ased_batteries

                  In the subject of batteries - is it common for the stock X1 battery / controller combo to shut completely off with a battery capacity of 20%?

                  I don't think I've ever heard anyone mention this 'feature' before, and this is the first time I've dipped to an actual "20%" indicated charge.

                  I'm usually charging to about 80%, discharging to ~40%, but last night I did some extra riding - heading west to see "The Christmas Star". I was a couple miles out from home base and the controller/screen and all assist just shut off. No warning. The last reading I remember seeing was ~22%, so suspect it hit a magic number of "20". Did a couple quick checks to make sure it wasn't an accidental battery button push, loose battery, etc. Couldn't find anything.

                  I made my non-powered way back home, I tried to turn it on a couple more times, but nothing. Gave it one last shot coasting down the last hill and the controller did come on, showing "21%" battery. Likely a bit of recovery in the cells. On the charger now, so will have to give it another check-out ride today.

                  Comment


                  • bradleyland
                    bradleyland commented
                    Editing a comment
                    If you pull a lot of amps at a low state of charge, you can trip the BMS low-voltage protection circuit. I don't know the actual LVC (low-voltage cutoff) for the BMS in the X-1, but if you've got a Ludicrous bike, you'll want to turn the PAS way down once you're below 30% or you can draw enough amps to shut the battery down.

                    This is just a general consequence of running a 4P pack with high amperage draw.

                  • K442
                    K442 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thanks for the info! That likely explains it. I was pedaling hard, but also chugging up a hill in PAS 4. Would have been nice if there were some warning, indication, or read-out to show what happened, or that I was nearing a limit. Though if it is the BMS, I guess there is no communication between that and the outside world. So that is to be expected.

                    Also curious that it took ~10 minutes to 'reset', though possibly it took the battery that long to recover in voltage, or possibly even a built-in 'time out' function.

                    But happy to report it did auto-reset with no input or procedure needed from me, and all appears normal after giving an 80% charge yesterday and going for a ride.

                  bengreens
                  Let me know how that programming unit works?
                  Are you able to do anything besides just loading firmware's?

                  BTW, regarding the brake cutoff comments above.
                  You don't need brake cutoff sensors.

                  Comment


                  • bengreens
                    bengreens commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Will do; hoping to get to it tonight or tomorrow. UCR1 describes some changes he was able to effect: speed limit, tire size, and wheel circumference, in Desmodromic's X-1/M600 BESST thread but adds it might be better not to mess with them. As of last I looked, there was little or no reporting on how the changes played out in actual riding. (I'm having trouble articulating tonight! And inserting links.) https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...re-programming
                    Last edited by bengreens; 12-23-2020, 04:38 PM.
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