Luna X-1 Enduro FS ebike MANUAL

[KTMracer63]

Did you have to load another firmware version to get that setting? On mine, the 28 inch wheel size is one of the locked settings. I haven't looked at the firmware modification process yet.

The display has nothing to do with the settings...it's only a display.

If you want to set the Controller parameters with more flexibility (Wheel Size, Circumference and Speed)...you'll need to buy the Besst Tool and run 1.2.23 app. For 100 bucks it's worth it especially if you're a "ludi" rider. (you'll also get to download 2 useless firmwares 46.6 and 14.5....and the much better 14.6). It's even useful for non-ludi riders....because you'll have that parameter setting flexibility......unlike a bike shipped by Luna with 14.6 already installed, which really depends how well they set up the Controller parameters to begin with, using Besst Tool and whatever App version they used (the consumer will not know).

To answer your question, yes, there's a 27.5" wheel setting......the key is having "write" capability within the Besst Tool/App (ala 1.2.23)....app 1.2.18 does not allow for this adjustment/write flexibility. Should you fry a Controller and have to replace/swap out, you'll need 1.2.23 to perform a calibration anyway.

[Brian99]

That may have been a mistake at the factory. My v14.6 is set to 27.5" wheels and I can enter the setup menu and change that if I wanted to, as I recall. You need the code to enter; it's posted somewhere like in a Luna video.

[AZguy]

joegold100

GPS is not that accurate either unless you are in a flat place and the satellites are spread out very wide.
Out west, I had horizon to horizon satellites and I got about 10 feet of accuracy

Here in the mountains of NC, GPS is always off on the low side

It cuts corners on trails and you may be down in a cove and it only sees overhead satellites
Also, the complete tree canopy is not good for reception
The triangulation is not that good.

That's why I always rag on my buddies when they compare Strava KOM records and believe they are accurate.

An issue you seem to be alluding to is when moving fast is that most GPS sample only once per second and just take the straight line distance between two points and when in tight turns that distance can be significantly less than the chord distance

Some GPS's have the ability to take a wheel sensor and constantly slowly calibrate the wheel circumference against the GPS and these are usually *very* accurate for both speed and odometer... petty much gold standard on a bike...

I've also got some extremely high performance professional receivers that sample at 50 times a second and track >1000 signals on multiple frequency bands with high performance differential correction that once converged are usually better than 10cm real-time accuracy (even under canopy, etc.) - they tend to come very close to the calibrated wheel sensor consumer units

[EL34]

joegold100

GPS is not that accurate either unless you are in a flat place and the satellites are spread out very wide.
Out west, I had horizon to horizon satellites and I got about 10 feet of accuracy

Here in the mountains of NC, GPS is always off on the low side

It cuts corners on trails and you may be down in a cove and it only sees overhead satellites
Also, the complete tree canopy is not good for reception
The triangulation is not that good.

That's why I always rag on my buddies when they compare Strava KOM records and believe they are accurate.

[K442]

Speedo / odo is definitely known to be off. The 2mi per 30 mi (or about 7%) seems to be within reason of what is typically reported. The 9 miles in a 5.5 mile trip seems way off. So possibly something with the magnet tripping the sensor much more than it should, or possibly a miles / kilometers setting? 5.5 miles = 8.85km

[joegold100]

I made a post about this here: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-fast-by-2-mph

But yes, the millage is off by about 2 miles on 30 miles as EL34 stated and so is the speedometer is 2 miles per hour fast. This is most noticeable when you compare speed and millage with GPS tracking apps which are pretty accurate.

[EL34]

Did you have to load another firmware version to get that setting? On mine, the 28 inch wheel size is one of the locked settings. I haven't looked at the firmware modification process yet.

No, my X1 is one of the first ones
It has 14.4 firmware

[Dot-11]

Yep, the X1 meters cannot be set for a correct wheel circumference or diameter.
My 860C is set for 27.5, not 28 inch

Did you have to load another firmware version to get that setting? On mine, the 28 inch wheel size is one of the locked settings. I haven't looked at the firmware modification process yet.

[EL34]

I've recently acquired an X1, but the display (860c) doesn't measure mileage correctly. It is set to 28" tires (which I can't change). I did a ~5.5 mile trip, and the trip meter shows over 9 miles. Is this a known issue?

Yep, the X1 meters cannot be set for a correct wheel circumference or diameter.
My 860C is set for 27.5, not 28 inch

But, I have not found the mileage to be off as much as you are reporting.
I would say on mine, it is only a couple miles off after 30+ miles

You can see some of my ride reports in my X1 post here

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/main-forum/general-discussions/96359-shaving-weight-off-my-luna-x1-and-other-x1-mods?p=108290#post108290

[Dot-11]

I've recently acquired an X1, but the display (860c) doesn't measure mileage correctly. It is set to 28" tires (which I can't change). I did a ~5.5 mile trip, and the trip meter shows over 9 miles. Is this a known issue?

[Brian99]

I got and like this seat: Ergon - SM E-Mountain Core Prime Men's Ergonomic Comfort Bicycle Saddle
A hidden rock ruined the stock X1 pedal and got these: https://lunacycle.com/cnc-luna-perfect-pedals/ They are sticky, using my old SAS shoes. Way better than the stock pedals (which I thought were good).
For the battery rattle (and other protection), I love mastic. I put a couple of pieces in the battery well to make up the space, and I put a little grease on the side touching the battery so that I don't have to pry it out. It works perfectly.
The Venzo torque set is most of the tools that I needed. https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Bicycle...00713812&psc=1
And their shock pump.
I got the Feedback sports pro elite stand rated at 85 lbs. It's just barely enough. I cannot just rotate the bike at any angle with this thing, but it works for what I need.
Dropper may be a bit short on the travel, but works for me.

I am only using plant-based lubricants from WPL and this on my chain: https://www.amazon.com/mountainFLOW-.../dp/B08J4HLHYC
I don't buy gasoline, nor use FFs or PTFE for my bike maintenance.

I think Luna got the bolt-tightening and lock-tite problems fixed now.

[joegold100]

I thought this was weird too! The same brand axle with the quick release is only $4 more than the one with the hex bolt. I ended up stripping mine (made a video about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XbGyKFRc6w ) then I ordered a quick release from Amazon. Here is the same axle but with the quick release lever: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I also see that they are now about $16 cheaper on eBay and even Walmart online has it $15 cheaper). I changed mine and the quick release is awesome!

[KTMracer63]

Call a Rockshox dealer and ask...The Lost Co. is a good place for tech help on Yari/Lyrik/Zeb...the Techs now their stuff there.
Good bet is Luna has nothing to do with Rockshox aftermarket parts.

[joegold100]

I've had my X1 for a couple of months and I'm also awaiting delivery of a second X1 for my wife in July. Here are some items worth mentioning:

- TIRES: The tires that the bike comes don't balance right. No matter how true your wheel is they will always wobble and make the rim appear as bent. This is confirmed by Luna support. I can't tell you how many people who ride behind me always tell me I need to get my rear rim trued. But, it has been trued twice since I got it (as well as the front twice too) and it still looks bad. In addition, I also converted both front and back to tubeless. The tires are tubeless ready but you will need to remove the tube, add new valve stems and fill them up with sealant. This a messy job and I chose to have a local bike shop do it for me. To convert both tires, plus purchase new stems, and true the rims again the cost was about $75.

FRONT THRU AXLE - The front axle on the bike requires you use a hex bit and torque wrench to remove and replace. This is a pain in the ass if you need to repair on the trail or remove the tire quickly for other reasons like cleaning or travel. The rear rim has a quick release axle but the front does not. I replaced mine with the same brand but the quick release version (after stripping mine). The difference in price is only $4 for the quick release so I'm not sure why Luna did not just put quick releases on the front too. Here is the part if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W1B7EVY...roduct_details

BATTERY RATTLE ISSUE: A common problem with the X1 is that the battery does not sit tightly in the frame. When you ride it will rattle and as some users report, it can either fall completely out or move and arc. There is a velcro fix and I had a slightly different solution. Click on my profile. I did a posts/videos on this issue/solution as well as other things I mentioned in this response.

- WATER BOTTLE CAGE: The bike has no predrilled holes for a water bottle cage. Further, there is no room to put a cage in between the lower and top bars like other competing EMTB's have. Because this is an Enduro bike, to me, this is a big design flaw of X1. Carrying a water bottle or water bladder in a bag is a pain in the neck and not convenient (especially on short rides). The only places to strap a water bottle cage on the X1 are the seat post (exposes the water bottle to a lot of dirt kicking up from rear tire) or strapping one to the top bar. I chose to strap mine to the top bar because its cleaner and easier to reach your water bottle without stopping. I ordered and tried several cages and the one that fits best and matches the bike best is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . This cage fits good over the wide bar, and I haven't had a bottle fall out yet. If you purchase this cage you will also need a 24oz water bottle because a standard 28 oz will get in the way when mounted on the top bar.

- TOOLS/SUPPLIES: Like you, I come from long history of ATV and dirt bike riding. With this bike, I found that most of my existing tools which I used for repair and maintenance of dirt bikes, or the tools I had for my other pedal only bikes were either too large or not precision enough for my X1. There is an X1 tool kit from Luna that has everything you need which they now sell separately but has been out of stock. If you can't order the kit from Luna, locate it on their product page and get the list of tools that are in there... I've had to purchase all new metric hex wrenches, t-shaped hex wrenches and matching torque bits in small sizes, multi-tool to keep with me when riding, bike chain scrubber brush, a good precision 20-200 lb torque wrench, Presta valve pressure gauge and adapters for air compressor (because i changed the tire valves), 5 Pieces Spoke Tool Kit (the spokes nuts are wider than standard cheap wrenches), maintenance bike stand (these are expensive), bike tire levers (to remove and reinstall tire on rim), a decent brush to clean the bike with,
LIGHTS: You will need a good, bright, front light for night traveling (I'm using one from my pedal MTB still because I haven't found one that mounts right and is not either in the way or partially blocked by all the cables on the front of the bike). If you are going to ride on the road a bunch, you will should invest in a good tail light. I recommend the Meilan X5 Smart Light with laser (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

- PHONE MOUNT: If you want to navigate through trail systems with GPS you will need a mount for your phone. I tried several and settled on a Quadlock system. This requires the mount and special case for your phone model. These two are expensive.

- FIRMWARE UPGRADE: You should get the bike and try it before you make that update. I found someone locally who had the update tool and changed mine and hated it. I changed it back a couple of days later. I firmly (no phun intended) believe that Luna got it right with firmware they ship. The firmware update that others are testing will pretty much only give you one power level. It also kills that battery much faster in my experience.. If you ride dirt bikes, you will appreciate being able to move through different power levels where you can feel the difference. I would also recommend that you learn to pedal the bike without any PAS so you can be strong enough to pedal a 55 lb bike when/if your battery runs out which happened to me multiple times on 30+ mile runs. I recently did a 50 mile run and had to pedal the bike for the last 14 miles without any power. However, because I ride a lot in PAS 0 and 1 (out of 5 levels of PAS) I was conditioned to make it back with no stress and in 98 degree desert heat. Range anxiety is real and with that beta firmware you wont have much option to adjust your power level if you need to conserve for long rides. I'm sure a ton of people will jump on my shit but I still feel Luna got it right with the firmware they tweaked specifically for this bike and the majority of riders needs.

- CHECKING & TIGHTENING BOLTS : Same as everyone else reports... numerous bolts were not tight when I got the bike, and many came loose and kept coming loose during hard trail riding. The first test ride I took on a moderate trail the front headset came loose around a turn and I was thrown over the bars. After that, I put lock tight on everything. I now check several bolts just about every time I'm going on a long or hard ride.

- LUBRICATION: Get Dry lube and Tri-flow oil. My bike was really noisy when I first got it. The battery rattle issue was 75% of the noise but I found that the rear suspension was exceptionally noisy too and needs lubrication every couple of weeks. After fixing the battery and suspension noise, I was still having a lot of creaking noise from the front that I could not pin down. After Googling around I found that it was the front spokes! Where the spokes cross over each other and touch, I sprayed TriFlow oil on a rag and lubed the spokes and I had no more bike sounds.


Thats all I can think of for now. Good luck!

[jcvandd]

I have two X1s, one if the first waves for me and a new one with the larger chain ring and shorter crank arms fir my wife. Love them both. Main thing I'd check is the torque on any of the bolts. I'd also make sure to apply some blue loctite in certain places. My crank bolts came loose in the middle of a ride and my wife's rear axle came loose while transporting. We love ours, just keep up with routine maintenance.