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    Originally posted by K442 View Post

    Noticed that on the original computer, too. Wheel "diameter" is a strange way to classify wheel size for speed/distance purposes. How would the computer know if you have a 2.1 or a 4.0 sized tire?

    Several other non-ebike computers I have ask for the tire circumference in millimeters. That can be very accurate for any tire - especially if you roll several rotations over a known distance and take an average to get the circumference.
    Exactly my thoughts also
    A generic wheel diameter setting does not work

    At 4:14 in this youtube video, he shows being able to change the wheel diameter on the BBSHD version of the 860C meter.
    Not sure why the X1 version would be locked?



    Comment


      Hey all,
      Loving my new bike and plan to give a more detailed account of my experience dealing with Luna (all positive) and my experience with the bike so far. I am relatively new to modern and electric mountain biking and mountain bike repair and maintenance. I rode a lot in the late 90's but man have things changed! I have ordered and received a new 38T front chainring and a new Sram 124 link chain. I have a few questions.
      1. how do I put on the new chainring? I took off the crank on the chain ring side assuming that would give me access to the old chain ring...wrong. I can't get it over the thing it attaches to. I see on youtube it says to take the other crank off and then pull it through the bottom bracket but didn't know if that would be ok with a mid drive electric bike. Any advice would help.
      2. do I need to use the new chain or will original chain be fine with the 38T?
      3. Is there a video out there explaining what all the tools are for in the Luna tool kit they give?
      Sorry to be an uneducated Newb on these things. I'm very handy and learn quick but mostly work on RC Cars and planes, skateboards and surfboard repair lately. Hoping to learn along the way and excited to get better at tuning the bike.

      Comment


        Originally posted by Frankie Brennan View Post
        1. how do I put on the new chainring?
        Originally posted by paxtana View Post

        IF you need to remove the chainring from the spider please take a look at this video




        Originally posted by Frankie Brennan View Post
        2. do I need to use the new chain or will original chain be fine with the 38T?
        Originally posted by EL34 View Post

        The chain length is determined by how it sits on the chain ring and largest cog in the rear.
        If the derailleur is forced forward really hard and at it's limit, it won't shift as well as it should
        I buy 126 link chains and remove 2 links making them 124 links
        124 links works really well with my 40 tooth ring and the 50 tooth rear cog

        Many new chains are only 116 links


        Originally posted by Frankie Brennan View Post
        3. Is there a video out there explaining what all the tools are for in the Luna tool kit they give?
        <crickets>

        JK! I'd like to know what some of them are for too.

        Comment


        • Frankie Brennan
          Frankie Brennan commented
          Editing a comment
          Ta-da!!! That worked Bradleyland! Just took off the 2 bolts on bash guard and shifted it over about 1/4 inch. Thanks Buddy! Now have to put on 38T and new chain (snapped mine on ride today so perfect timing to make the change) I also had a buddy help me get last gear to work but that is causing shifting problems on a few of the higher gears. Going to have to learn to adjust derailleur today as well.

        • BillyKidd
          BillyKidd commented
          Editing a comment
          Hey Frankie. You are no doubt smarter than me but I wanted to share something I learned yesterday. I was not happy with the response in the rear shock and tried to "pump it up" with my air compressor. Big mistake. Apparently there is very little air volume in that shock so any loss (thru coupling and uncoupling the air component to the schrader valve) dramatically reduces the pressure in the shock. Had to run to my LBS to get a hand pump for suspension shocks. Got back home and got it up to 250psi without much difficulty. Lesson learned. Now I need to figure out how the front suspension works. What a learning curve owning these bikes. EL34 doesn't know it but he has been a great help to me with his videos. Just wanted to share this so you don't go thru it.
          Last edited by BillyKidd; 05-29-2020, 03:12 PM.

        • Frankie Brennan
          Frankie Brennan commented
          Editing a comment
          You assume too much Billy! What I have on my side is I’m a decent problem solver and I’m tenacious! I did adjust my shocks with a pump I got on amazon. My pressure was WAY to low. My tires were WAY too high. Made some good adjustments yesterday. Didn’t realize how much those 2 things were by “feel” and not just set numbers based on weight. I was also happy that I was able to change chainring and size a new chain! First time for me using the chain break tool. The 38T and taking 2 lengths off the Sram 126 eagle chain fit together perfectly. No slipping in any cog, even the lowest that was closed out. Although, I need to go back and still make adjustments to derailleur to make it smoother. No skipping but sounds “clunky”. Loving this bike and it’s crushing the terrain here in San Diego!

        Here is an image with the tools labeled.
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • Frankie Brennan
          Frankie Brennan commented
          Editing a comment
          Thank you! Now I just have to figure out how to use them properly and what half these parts are that they are used on! Chain whip????

        • BillyKidd
          BillyKidd commented
          Editing a comment
          Hey Frankie. I didn't know what a chain whip was either. But, I know what is called and can google it now. Good luck to you on your journey.

        Hi everyone,

        Just received my X1 last night. Was thoroughly excited throughout the entire assembly process, but when I took it outside for a ride ...nothing. Battery fully charged. Display connectors definitely plugged in. Display powers on. When I engage the throttle there’s a very slight clicking sound from the motor like it wants to engage but can’t. I opened the motor cover but all the connections seem solid.

        Any insight hugely appreciated. Thirsting to ride!
        Last edited by Damienhatty; 05-29-2020, 06:22 AM.

        Comment


        • paxtana
          paxtana commented
          Editing a comment
          There are step by step troubleshooting instructions on this very thread, in the first post

        • Damienhatty
          Damienhatty commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks. I did start there, and did all I could short of opening the motor itself as I don’t have the bb pull tool to remove. Connections and voltage are all solid. It sounds unfortunately as though it’s something mechanical within the motor.

        Originally posted by Damienhatty View Post
        Hi everyone,

        Just received my X1 last night. Was thoroughly excited throughout the entire assembly process, but when I took it outside for a ride ...nothing. Battery fully charged. Display connectors definitely plugged in. Display powers on. When I engage the throttle there’s a very slight clicking sound from the motor like it wants to engage but can’t. I opened the motor cover but all the connections seem solid.

        Any insight hugely appreciated. Thirsting to ride!
        Go here
        https://lunacycle.com/support/

        Comment


          Originally posted by EL34 View Post
          Thanks. I did open a ticket, but it’s possible they won’t get back to me until after the weekend. I’m actually watching your m600 tear down video on YouTube right now just trying to get a grasp on how’s it’s put together in case I need to open it up. Interesting stuff!

          Should there be significant resistance when rolling bike backwards? It clicks and makes a pretty unpleasant noise when I push bike in reverse with everything off.
          Last edited by Damienhatty; 05-29-2020, 09:27 AM.

          Comment


            So, I actually just got the rear wheel to spin a fraction of a turn off the ground using the throttle. It made a pretty nasty grinding noise and then quit. I also noticed that the backwards rolling resistance is actually intermittent. Sometimes when I hold the bike at a slight angle it rolls freely without any clicking. I made two videos but not sure if the sound comes through. I’d love to take the motor cover off and look inside, but I don’t have the bottom bracket tool.

            Vids:

            https://streamable.com/igz75z
            https://streamable.com/eh6mrt

            Comment


            • paxtana
              paxtana commented
              Editing a comment
              Sounds like we will probably exchange the bare motor. I can assure you we will take care of it one way or the other and our tech Seb will get back to you soon, hopefully with some additional thoughts on any other troubleshooting he can think of specific to what you are describing. If that doesn't work we'll make the work order right away and get you a label for the original motor.

            • Damienhatty
              Damienhatty commented
              Editing a comment
              Thanks very much! I’ll look out for that.

            Frankie I just got my chain ring in the mail an hour ago and am getting ready to put it on. Besides the chain do you have any advice? Did you go 40t or 42?

            Comment


            • Frankie Brennan
              Frankie Brennan commented
              Editing a comment
              I went with a 38T. Figure I’d start there. Went with the 124 link Sram Eagle chain. Took out 2 links. The test ride was good yesterday. Higher speed when needed. Even got smallest gear to work. Then I fought with derailleur most of the morning. Mind you I’m a complete novice in this department and although I know what the screws are supposed to do I’m not sure I’m on correct screw for what I need it to do. Got impatient and went for a ride. It was all good except for a little more noise from the gears than normal and once it went too far and chain ended up between frame and lowest gear. Going to watch some videos on adjusting and hope to get it dialed tomorrow. However, I messed with so much stuff like twisting the cable adjuster by shifter that I may be totally out of wack. Also, someone earlier in this thread said they used my chain length with the 40T so I’m wondering if I may need to take out another link or 2. Other than that not much advice as I’m figuring it out as I go. I have my own questions such as what are the negative Affects of a longer or a shorter chain? Do you have to adjust the B screw? Which I did by the Schramm plastic B screw adjustment tool. Do you have to adjust the derailer for the bigger front chain ring? Hoping I’ll figure these things out as I go or find answers on the Internet.

            • BillyKidd
              BillyKidd commented
              Editing a comment
              I watched a few bike chain videos before I attempted the chainring/chain switchover this afternoon. This one was the most helpful https://youtu.be/_5o2V4ngd10. I saw an excellent video on derailleur adjustment I think by Park Tool. I will try and find that.
              Here is the park tool video: https://youtu.be/UkZxPIZ1ngY
              Last edited by BillyKidd; 05-30-2020, 04:34 PM.

            Hi Guys — first I want to say that I am loving the x1 so far and very grateful for this forum. This is my first bike and I hit my first problem.

            I was riding today and my crank arm fell off. I lost the cap/bolt that holds on the arm and looking for links or advice for going about fixing this. Are there specific things I need to be aware of due to the m600? Any torque recommendations? Any specific parts/tools needed? Any best practices to prevent this in the future (lock tight perhaps)? Etc...

            Comment


            • bradleyland
              bradleyland commented
              Editing a comment
              It's a good idea to check hardware with some frequency. When I first got the bike, I'd check important hardware before every ride: cranks, chain ring bolts, brake caliper bolts, axles, stem, seat post, and pedals. There's a lot of hardware on a full-sus bike though. I give the bike a full hardware once over every other month or so. FWIW, I do the same on my analog bikes as well. Im just glad the X-1 uses splined crank arms. It's been a long time since I owned a bike with square taper cranks, but man were they terrible about coming loose. The cranks on my X-1 have been solid since I put some blue locktite on them and torqued them to spec.

            • Mattw
              Mattw commented
              Editing a comment
              x1-fun, did you get a new one? Ive also lost that same bolt a few days ago. I ordered a isis crank bolt m15 off Amazon hopefully it's the right one.

            • X1-Fun
              X1-Fun commented
              Editing a comment
              Luna support put a new bolt in the mail (free of charge) which certainly was not necessary as I would have been and still would be happy to pay for it. I ended up visiting three bike shops in the local area and no one could find a fit based on what they had on hand. I placed an order for a few different ones off Ali Express (the only place I could find them). One of them is the following: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32837874582.html

              I'll report back and let you know if any of them work, and I will for sure be checking it every time I ride going forward.

            I love my x1 - I would love it more if it had a bit more battery. I’m often using all of it on my hilly rides. Is there any hope for a custom higher capacity pack? I wondered if it were possible to build a custom pack that might fit into the same area as the standard one - but I don’t know if there’s any ability to actually stuff more cells in there. Hence this post.

            Comment


            • bradleyland
              bradleyland commented
              Editing a comment
              There aren't any plug & play solutions, but there are some interesting aspects of the X-1 that make custom solutions possible. If you remove the battery latch and base plate from the frame, you'll notice a couple of things. First is that they're held in place with simple hardware. Once they're out, you have four large-ish (M8, I think?) attachment points for a battery retention system. You'll also notice that the motor has a simple XT-60 connector that attaches to the base plate. That could be connected to any pack. Lastly, if you remove the end caps from the battery, you'll see they're hollow. There's quite a bit of room for more cells. IMO, at least room enough for 5P.

              Altogether, I think it'd be possible to fit a 14S4P or 13S5P battery in the frame housing. Retention is the hard part. There are four attachment points, but they're not at the ends of the opening, so you'd need to attach some sort of bracket, then retain the battery from the ends. You also need protection from impacts. It's not a simple DIY, but there are guys who built DIY projects based on this frame prior to Luna getting an exclusive.

            Originally posted by tristanbrotherton View Post
            I love my x1 - I would love it more if it had a bit more battery. I’m often using all of it on my hilly rides. Is there any hope for a custom higher capacity pack? I wondered if it were possible to build a custom pack that might fit into the same area as the standard one - but I don’t know if there’s any ability to actually stuff more cells in there. Hence this post.
            How many miles are you riding and how much climbing?

            Here's a recent ride I did at 35 miles and around 3000 feet of climbing
            I can easily get more than 35 miles on my non Ludi X1 if I conserve
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • K442
              K442 commented
              Editing a comment
              EL' I think you win the award for 'hypermiler' of the group! Though i suspect assist level has a lot to do with that. "1" is showing and i think you mentioned typically max of ~3? Your earlier posts also mentioned the odometer being off and 35 miles was closer to 33? But still - you do squeeze a lot of mileage out of a pack by keeping the assist low, and legs strong!

              To the earlier poster - The pack is 4 cells in parallel now, if you tried for extra 'capacity', you'd technically need to add a whole additional parallel string which would be 12 more cells - I don't think there would be room for that unless you somehow pulled the battery controller outside the tube/battery box or added the cells somewhere on the frame. You COULD likely squeeze in another 4 parallel cells to the existing series groups which would give you 52V. That would technically give you a bit more capacity. In the future, we'll likely have the 18650 cells with more capacity so a 12S4P pack would just have more juice - but that is likely a few years away, still.

              But overall, the key to more range is slow down, lower assist and pedal more!
              Last edited by K442; 06-08-2020, 08:28 PM.

            Somewhere I read that there is a twist throttle that could replace the thumb throttle on the X1. any one done this?

            Comment



              K442

              Yes, I typically ride on level 1 and 2 early in my rides and get a workout and conserve battery

              If the last part of the ride has a big climb or I am getting tired, I will go up to level 3

              I have my X1 set to 9 levels
              And I have a non ludi X1

              I also removed the throttle from my X1 after I got the new 860C meter for the X1


              Comment


              • Frankie Brennan
                Frankie Brennan commented
                Editing a comment
                Do you suggest turning off motor completely for big downhills? I have a few big climbs which result in big downhills to and from my local trails and then a few steep single trails downhill on the trail. I finish with a big climb back to my house and notice once my battery is below 20% (after about 15 miles) the motor is rather useless on that final climb. Mind you I do love to throw it into level 5 on some of the flatter single trails and use the throttle some. I also have a 38T in front.

              I am planning on going to the beach later this month and was going to take my bike but someone told me not to as the salt in the air near the beach ruins bikes. I wasn't planning on riding it on the beach or in the saltwater but is there any truth to this if I just ride it in the street? I'm only planning on being there for about 4-5 days.

              Comment


              • Frankie Brennan
                Frankie Brennan commented
                Editing a comment
                I live 3 miles from the beach in San Diego. Although I tend to ride the trails away from the beach I do head out there at least 1-2 times a week. I don’t see it being a problem but I do rinse it off after every ride.

              • bradleyland
                bradleyland commented
                Editing a comment
                Florida resident here. Salt spray is a killer. It'll rust anything. Fortunately, it's an easy remedy. You simply hose the bike down when you get back. Salt is very soluble, so you don't even need physical contact to carry it away. Just spraying the bike down will do. I would recommend hitting hardware with a little WD-40 when you're done though. Just be sure not to get it on your brake rotors, and don't spray your chain with it. Use a good quality chain lube (I use Finish Line Dry Lube).

                Conditions have a lot to do with how bad the salt spray is too. If there's a strong on-shore wind, I won't bother riding over to the beach. It's too hard on the bike. If it's calm, or if the breeze is off-shore (rare), it's less of a problem.
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