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    Originally posted by steelersmb View Post
    I am planning on going to the beach later this month and was going to take my bike but someone told me not to as the salt in the air near the beach ruins bikes. I wasn't planning on riding it on the beach or in the saltwater but is there any truth to this if I just ride it in the street? I'm only planning on being there for about 4-5 days.
    Salt air ruins many things
    You can just rinse off the bike if you think salt air is a problem

    Comment


      Frankie Brennan
      Do you suggest turning off motor completely for big downhills? I have a few big climbs which result in big downhills to and from my local trails and then a few steep single trails downhill on the trail. I finish with a big climb back to my house and notice once my battery is below 20% (after about 15 miles) the motor is rather useless on that final climb. Mind you I do love to throw it into level 5 on some of the flatter single trails and use the throttle some. I also have a 38T in front.
      Just not pedaling will not use any battery on downhills
      Some downhills I do have switchbacks and it's nice to come out of the switchback with a little power.

      Using level 5 of 9
      or level 5 of 5?
      Using throttle?

      Both of those are problems for getting more mileage>
      I removed the throttle from my X1 because never used it

      Comment


      • kengps
        kengps commented
        Editing a comment
        Removing the throttle will not save any power. I say better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. I use mine a lot when traversing obstacles that would result in a pedal strike. A lot of roots sticking up out of the ground where I ride. Big rocks too on the beach I ride on. The throttle on my LUNA Babe was in a bad spot though. I rearranged the placement of the throttle and brakes so that both right and left hands could grab the lever at the same leverage point. My throttle is now unobtrusive. Still can get to it as needed, but no longer in the way.

      A few things.... and would like responses or thoughts.

      Brought my Luna X-1 to my buddies house so his son could give it a once over and help me fix a few things and tune it up. His Son is 22, been racing mountain bikes since he was a kid, has about 40k in bikes and parts in the garage and has a side business of tuning up bikes for the locals which now includes me. He had my bike for a few days and even called Luna to ask questions about the bike and why certain components were used. My hour when picking up my bike with this kid gave me more knowledge then I could ever get at my local shop or online. A few take aways from him.....

      Pros
      1. Great bike for the price
      2. The shocks alone are worth the price of the bike.
      3. He felt it was a solid bike
      4. liked the way the cables were easy to access and install (he gave me a better shifter cable).
      5. He isn't into high powered ebikes but he appreciated the power it had for those that need it (not a hater at all). He has ridden many MTB Ebikes on the trails as he is a demo rider for a mountain near lake Arrowhead (can't remember the name) but doesn't own one....yet.

      Cons and questions
      1. Why did they skimp on the derailleur? Plastic parts on a powerful ebike makes no sense (says to change it ASAP) SX is the low end model for Sram
      2. Why go with no name rims? Especially ones that are not tubeless compatible (he said he asked Luna and they said not compatible. Has anyone gone tubeless with these rims? He said there are too many holes in the rim)
      3. Didn't like a few things about the motor and the torque sensing. Motor continued too long after stop peddling.
      4. Felt the settings from 1-2 to 3 way too different. Felt 3 wasn't much different from 4-5.

      I'm loving the bike but also don't have much experience with ebikes or higher end mountain bike. I can race through trails, throw the bike around, hit big kicker jumps and get the power boost I need when my surgically repaired knee (as of Sept 2019 and still healing and rehabbing ) can't do the job. However, it sounds like new rims, derailleur and shifter, chain is a must. He mentioned a few other things but they were mostly luxury items like bars, peddles and grips that are not a must.

      Anyway, just thought I'd share. He had a lot more to say but my head was spinning trying to retain all the knowledge he was spewing. Will update as I'm sure I'll have more questions for him in a few weeks.

      Comment


      • kengps
        kengps commented
        Editing a comment
        great info, thanks. I find level 1-2 to be "zero". 3 is too much for flat areas. Level 5 is a little more than 3 but not very noticeable. I tried setting mine to 9 steps, and it did give me a useful difference between 5 and 6 I never had with 2 and 3 before. I went back to 5 steps though because it was a pain remembering where I was. My display is hardly useable in the sun. With my eyes anyway. Also level 1 and 2 are annoying, as the motor cycles on and off constantly as I pedal. It's interesting that it can cycle on/off so quickly, yet level 3 takes too long to cycle off when I stop pedaling.
        Last edited by kengps; 06-12-2020, 12:31 PM.

      • bradleyland
        bradleyland commented
        Editing a comment
        Mostly agree, however, the answer to most of the questions about components is money. Upgrading the derailleur and rims would have added cost, which would have pushed the price of the bike over $4k. IMO, Luna made the right call on these components. Even though the SX derailleur is plastic, it has proven very durable. I just hit 1,200 miles on my X-1 Ludicrous, and the derailleur is still holding up. My biggest problem is keeping the pulleys greased. The dusty, sandy trails I ride dries them out very quickly. Durability wise, the derailleur has been fine, and it's taken several hard hits.

        The PAS assessment is pretty spot on though. I run my bike using 9 levels of assist to get better granularity, but there's still a big leap right in the middle. IMO, it has less to do with the ramp in power, and more to do with a change-over in the way input force is matched. In PAS levels lower than 1/2 power, a lot of input force is required to engage the motor. Once you go over 1/2, very little input force is needed. So you get more power and more responsiveness between settings 2/5 and 3/5, or settings 4/9 and 5/9, depending upon your configuration. I do find PAS 4/9 to be pretty workable though. I ride for fitness, so once I hit PAS 5/9, speeds start to get really fast as I keep putting in a lot of effort.

      Originally posted by Frankie Brennan View Post
      A few things.... and would like responses or thoughts.


      Cons and questions
      1. Why did they skimp on the derailleur? Plastic parts on a powerful ebike makes no sense (says to change it ASAP) SX is the low end model for Sram
      2. Why go with no name rims? Especially ones that are not tubeless compatible (he said he asked Luna and they said not compatible. Has anyone gone tubeless with these rims? He said there are too many holes in the rim)
      3. Didn't like a few things about the motor and the torque sensing. Motor continued too long after stop peddling.
      4. Felt the settings from 1-2 to 3 way too different. Felt 3 wasn't much different from 4-5.
      .
      All the components you mentioned keeps the price point reasonable

      There is nothing wrong with the entry level OEM SX SRAM drive drain
      I am still amazed that after 1100 + miles on my X1, it still shifts perfectly
      I have no problems with the torque sensor on my X1

      I upgraded my wheels to carbon and dropped 5 pounds off my X1
      So that is just an option for the users to do or not to do

      You can see my upgrades post here
      https://electricbike.com/forum/forum...-other-x1-mods

      Comment


      • Frankie Brennan
        Frankie Brennan commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks for replying all.
        Don’t get me wrong I’m loving the bike, have zero regrets and understand that the rims and drive train have kept the price down. I ride the bike very hard as I like to hit every jump, take drops and throw it into turns ( I got a medium frame and am happy I did). However, my biggest issue is getting the derailleur and shifting dialed in. I’ve fiddled with it myself a bunch and have had 2 people now tune it up. It still will skip gears or get hung up on a cog after shifting for a few revaluations of peddling. I’m very careful to not shift too aggressively when hitting a climb I did not see coming while the motor is ramping up as I already broke a chain that way. Is anyone else having an issue with shifting or skipping gears? Seems a little noisy also on last ride despite just getting tuned up, cleaner chain and gears and regressed.

      • bradleyland
        bradleyland commented
        Editing a comment
        Gear skipping comes in two varieties:

        1) Torque skipping. The M600 is capable of >100 Nm (~74 lb-ft) of torque. When combined with rider torque input, it's possible to skip the chain on smaller cogs. There are ways to mitigate this, but with a 32T chain ring, you can still exceed the chain's gripping strength on the small cogs. Remember that the smaller cogs have fewer teeth for the chain to engage, so the force applied to each tooth is 1/n, where n is the number of teeth on a cog. With a radius of around 2 1/8", the actual pulling force applied to the chain by the 32T is almost 340 lbs! On the 11T cog, that's 30 pounds of force applied to each tiny cog. The smaller diameter also means there is less chain tension.

        You can reduce the chance of torque skipping by adjusting your B-screw for maximum chain wrap. It's also a good idea to avoid the smaller cogs for climbing. Drop a gear and pedal faster. Lastly, the 2nd factor (listed below) can also be a contributing factor to torque skipping.

        2) Indexing adjustment. Modern 1-by, 12-speed drivelines are very sensitive to index adjustment. Squeezing 12 speeds onto the rear wheel of a MTB comes with compromises. One of those compromises is sensitivity to indexing adjustment. There's a barrel nut on the shifter that adjusts shift indexing. Turing the top away from the bars adjusts the derailleur inward, turning the top toward the bars adjusts it outward. Try adjustments in two-click increments to see if the skipping is reduced, but only do this after you have done the B-screw adjustment for maximum chain wrap.

        Lastly, I'd reiterate that some torque skipping is unavoidable with so much torque applied. The larger the cog, the less your chance of skipping. Happy trails!

      How do i change the display from kph to mph. I have the upgraded color display. I found the manual for basic one but i cant find it for the color one. If anyone has a link to the manual for the color one that would be awesome. Thanks a bunch.

      Comment


        Originally posted by ahrenboulis View Post
        How do i change the display from kph to mph. I have the upgraded color display. I found the manual for basic one but i cant find it for the color one. If anyone has a link to the manual for the color one that would be awesome. Thanks a bunch.
        I don't have a manual for the 860C display
        You can use this youtube video
        Even though that 860c in the video is for the BBSHD type motors, which is different, you can see how to get into steups

        Comment


          Frankie Brennan
          Is anyone else having an issue with shifting or skipping gears?
          Nope, mine shifts perfectly. Even after 1200 miles
          My guess is that something is not set up right on yours

          Comment


          • X1-Fun
            X1-Fun commented
            Editing a comment
            EL34 Do you mind me asking what sort of lube/grease program do you use for your drive train?

          Originally posted by EL34 View Post


          Nope, mine shifts perfectly. Even after 1200 miles
          I'll attest to that, and I've hammered my drive train both with the trail and an actual hammer.

          Get your bike up on a stand and eyeball your chainline from the back as you shift it through the gears. Watch where it shifts/skips when it shouldn't. I've found that when I'm having those problems, the sprockets in the derailleur tensioner cage aren't lined up straight with the selected gear.

          For me, this has been caused by failing to adjust the top and bottom limit screws just right (I guess this causes the index on the shift trigger to be out of range across the gears), or the tensioner cage was bent. I suppose there could be other issues, like with the chain. Try to watch/slow down the wheel as the mis-shift occurs; watch it long enough and you just might catch the reason why.
          Last edited by Hapkato; 06-15-2020, 04:56 PM. Reason: Edit: I only have ~350 mi on my X1 though.

          Comment


            Hi guys I wanted to know if the rear brake mount needs a spacer to fit a 180mm rotor in it?

            Comment


              Originally posted by ppanda View Post
              Hi guys I wanted to know if the rear brake mount needs a spacer to fit a 180mm rotor in it?
              It already has a 180mm rotor in the rear

              Comment


                Originally posted by EL34 View Post

                It already has a 180mm rotor in the rear
                Yes I was wondering if it uses a spacer to make room for the 180mm rotor.

                Comment


                  No, the frame is set up for a 180mm rotor
                  You would need a spacer to go up to a 203mm rotor

                  Note that in my X1 photo below , I changed my brakes out to Shimano.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by EL34 View Post
                    No, the frame is set up for a 180mm rotor
                    You would need a spacer to go up to a 203mm rotor

                    Note that in my X1 photo below , I changed my brakes out to Shimano.
                    Thanks that's exactly what I was looking for.

                    Comment


                      Any special considerations for washing the x1 that I should be aware of? This is the first bike I have had with a motor and was wondering if there were any special considerations that I need to take care of or be aware of for the battery housing or motor.
                      Last edited by X1-Fun; 06-19-2020, 07:46 AM.

                      Comment


                        X1-Fun
                        I have all my drive train cleaning and lube info here

                        Comment


                        • X1-Fun
                          X1-Fun commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Thanks so much!! I've ordered that same wax and look forward to trying it out.
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