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    Had to source these crank bolts too as the frame that I bought from Dengfu was missing them. Here's what I got and they are bolt on replacements:

    https://www.lazada.com.ph/products/w...EaApHIEALw_wcB

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    • dhartst
      dhartst commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you! I founds similar on AliExpress and Ebay. Much appreciated. Luna is sending me a replacement, but something tells me it's a good idea to have a few of these standing by.

    Originally posted by Mike Eatough View Post
    thanks, Bradleyland I'll try your tricks but I have the same experience as you even if I stay in PAS 1of 3 The pawer cut seems to be around 150f, I wonder if the motor would tolerate a higher setting? I'd be willing to risk it & experiment
    Where did you get the 150F figure? This also happens to me quite often as it's always 90F and more where I live (PH).

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    Does anyone know what the torque spec is on the crank arm bolts? I’ve cinched them down to 9nm and they are still a little creaky when pedaling hard uphill. Also has anyone sourced shorter crank arms?

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      I believe I saw info about crank arms in this post
      You would have to look at the post to find that info

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        Interesting comment here on Facebook from Eric at Luna
        https://www.facebook.com/groups/fast...2613144452961/


        facebook member question
        Why on Ludi controller toque sensing works worse than on stock one m600? I see similar issue with Bosch bikes with chip
        Eric Hicks:
        the higher the power the less effective torque sensing is...torque sensing is really best for low power....so if you have a ludi controller and you want to really feel torque sensing keep your bike on the lower power settings...at higher power settings lets say 1500 watts your legs will be not relevant.

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          Good find and good info! I can definitely see there being some 'dark arts' to tuning a torque sensor. Considering the average person can deliver a couple hundred watts, I could see it being much easier to match a couple hundred watt motor to that effort than a couple thousand watts ...especially given only 3, 5 or 9 steps to do it. Then when you go back and consider variability of any one person's physical output, the motor/assist tuning would be even more complex.

          I can certainly see how this leads to a lot of reports of assist being "nothing...nothing....nothing....too much....too much....too much..."

          Does make me wonder, though...reportedly the main difference in ludi vs non-ludi is in a current shunt located in the controller? So probably a low volt signal generated at the shunt to allow the controller to vary power output. If that signal were altered, it would seem to give at least some tunability to the system? Possibly make it think it's a 0-500W system for even more steps on the low end, or a 0-900 watt system for a 'little more, but not full out'?

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