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    Originally posted by EL34 View Post

    I have checked the battery voltage with a multi meter
    The 860c voltage reading is good enough

    My point is to go by voltage, not %
    Voltage tells the exact story and % is who knows what % of what
    So why not try wiring something like this inline? would be similar to an hour meter that's stuck to the head tube area of a dirtbike.
    Just personal preference, I don't care for the 860...

    https://usa.banggood.com/36V-or-48V-...iABEgIFGPD_BwE
    Last edited by KTMracer63; 1 week ago.

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      Probably most straightforward to just wire in a watt meter. There is an example of someone doing this much earlier in this thread, he did a video showing it, I believe combined with an aftermarket 52 v battery if I remember correctly

      Comment


      Click image for larger version

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      I'm looking for the horst link for the rear shock...This is the bracket/link that holds the rear shock(its the linkage that holds the circled bolt)...I am going to have to drill the bolt out to remove this bolt and want this part just in case it gets destroyed. please anyone that can guide me in the right direction or have one they are willing to sell.
      Last edited by jjdicecco; 6 days ago.

      Comment


      • KTMracer63
        KTMracer63 commented
        Editing a comment
        Then Luna should help you out...
        I'm in the process of swapping shocks...you aren't kidding, that bolt you have circled that's in front of the flip-chip, it screws into the other side (which also has hex head threaded female end), the bolt itself was not smooth coming out or apart (might give the feel of being stripped), though did finally come apart (be careful as bushings and flip chip will fall out) and it does have blue loctite applied. If you do get it out, was chatting with Fox Tech Support, they suggested not a bad idea to add a little grease or anti-seize to the bolt area that sits inside the shock bushing.
        Last edited by KTMracer63; 3 days ago.

      • jjdicecco
        jjdicecco commented
        Editing a comment
        I am currently in contact with luna waiting to hear back to see if they can supply the parts i need.

      • jjdicecco
        jjdicecco commented
        Editing a comment
        So Luna says that they can not get this part... has anyone ever researched or know where I can get this part?

      Have you tried some heat on that bolt before you drill it?

      Comment


      • jjdicecco
        jjdicecco commented
        Editing a comment
        I did try a heat gun....as I'm afraid to get it to hot because of the carbon and ruining the paint.

      • 2wheelsanything
        2wheelsanything commented
        Editing a comment
        if you could remove the whole link and shock from the bike, then you might be able to hit it with more direct heat on that bolt you need and not have to worry about the frame-I just hate drilling bolts unless absolutely necessary.

      • jjdicecco
        jjdicecco commented
        Editing a comment
        i was thinking of that also... unfortunately... me and my father in law stripped the bolt attempting last night...

      My Luna X1 Enduro only has 180 miles. I haven't washed it yet nor rode in the rain, only had it for 3 months. I now have the ERROR 30. I checked all connections and its attached but still has the error. Someone says its the display but I would hate to buy a display and the error will still be there. Anyone else have this problem and know a fix? I have a ride this Saturday and would hate to miss it.

      Comment


      • paxtana
        paxtana commented
        Editing a comment
        Error 30 - communications/controller error. Most likely a display problem, a wiring harness or the controller. If possible troubleshoot with another display (if you have access to one) .....

        Check your wiring harness for damage or bent pins. Pay close attention to the wiring as it leaves the controller going to the wiring harness, making sure no part of the wiring has been smashed by motor flex or random debris
        Check if you have extensions for the brake levers, throttle or anything else. Unplug everything before testing, then test by plugging each component individually in and power cycling the system.
        Check that you are not pinching the wiring leaving the controller, or the installation is causing the wiring to be pulling out of the wiring exiting the controller.
        Unplug all plugs in the controller as shown here, then plug them back in.

      Anyone know what error 14 represents? Does anyone’s stock controller display screen build up lite condensation?

      Comment


        KTMracer63
        The checking of voltage is/was already obvious....was only asking clarification to what meter you're using.
        It's not about you.
        The information is for others that are not as awesome as you are :)

        Comment


        • KTMracer63
          KTMracer63 commented
          Editing a comment
          Never said it was...and you were addressing the quote I wrote.

        Originally posted by Texasaj35 View Post
        My Luna X1 Enduro only has 180 miles. I haven't washed it yet nor rode in the rain, only had it for 3 months. I now have the ERROR 30. I checked all connections and its attached but still has the error. Someone says its the display but I would hate to buy a display and the error will still be there. Anyone else have this problem and know a fix? I have a ride this Saturday and would hate to miss it.
        which display do you have? DPC240 or 860c?

        Comment


          Does anyone know of any handgrip or twist throttles that work with our bike?

          Comment


          • Brian99
            Brian99 commented
            Editing a comment
            If I needed a grip, I would try the rev grips. I showed them to a friend and he has order them (not for a Luna). However, I tried my old WTB grips and found that they lock/bolt on the outside instead of inside, and my bar end is cut at a 45 deg. angle, so I had to go back to stock, which is fine for me so far. These seem to clamp on both inside and outside, so may not work:
            https://revgrips.com/
            So if your bars are like mine, you may need grips which lock on the inside.

          Originally posted by 2wheelsanything View Post

          which display do you have? DPC240 or 860c?
          I have the dpc 240. I checked ALL connections and they're still plugged. Upon checking all connection I found the brackets holding up my battery to be cracked already. I'm assuming from the drop offs I've been doing (no jumps yet). I'm having alot of problems with this new bike already! Kind of getting frustrated now!

          Comment


          • KTMracer63
            KTMracer63 commented
            Editing a comment
            You should join the Facebook X1 Riders group...substantial wealth of tech info, thankfully knew about this before receiving the bike.
            Luna should be able to replace that part for you....there are others that have received replacement parts.
            This issue was the "first item" addressed...then the 20 additional...LOL

            - This part is cheap-as-f*** made plastic
            - Gorillas at the factory are assembling this part to the bike with an Impact Driver initiating the stress to begin, then add the weight of a rattling battery.
            - VELCRO!!!, holds the battery much more secure (and in place)....applied to the inside battery compartment along with (when riding) using subtle velcro cinch strap wrap-around for peace-of-mind.

            Granted this bike is fun....but for harder core riding...the X1 really requires being disassembled and reassembled "properly".
            Last edited by KTMracer63; 1 day ago.

          • Texasaj35
            Texasaj35 commented
            Editing a comment
            I just joined that group on FB. Yeah, it had hairline crack as visually inspecting it but broke off as I took it apart...then the other crumbled as I was trying to take a pic to post it. I do like the bike as it does have alot of power and less expensive than the name brand ones but its a headache when things falls apart.
            Last edited by Texasaj35; 1 day ago.

          Originally posted by Texasaj35 View Post
          My Luna X1 Enduro only has 180 miles. I haven't washed it yet nor rode in the rain, only had it for 3 months. I now have the ERROR 30. I checked all connections and its attached but still has the error. Someone says its the display but I would hate to buy a display and the error will still be there. Anyone else have this problem and know a fix? I have a ride this Saturday and would hate to miss it.

          I have this same issue on a brand new bike. Took it out today, and it randomly keeps shutting down over and over. Dry as dirt up here. Then had an ERROR 30. So, Pax, I do have another bike with the same display. I feel like this is a wiring issue. But, I will swap tomorrow and ride again. What do you guys do for this issue? Replace the display, cables, etc??

          Comment


            As an aside, on my first ride today, I took the bike down some fast downhill sections that are fairly rutty. Pretty hairy, and the bike was vibrating like mad. All of a sudden, the handle bar just flips around. I freak out even more as I start to pump the brakes. Then, the handlebar stem just becomes loose from the fork, and I'm like WTF?! I pretty much have no control over the bike, and I go down hard thinking I'm going to break a collarbone. Now, mind you, before the ride, I tightened the SHIT out of those hex screws beyond the torque spec. I'm REALLY surprised they still vibrated completely loose. Luckily, I packed my multi hex tool in my bag, but even my cheap Walmart e-MTB never failed on me like that on these mountains.

            Really not impressed, to be honest.

            Comment


            • KTMracer63
              KTMracer63 commented
              Editing a comment
              Discovered the probable cause/same issue last week with the steering head hardware and fork tube (cut/length)...

              This is a LUNA issue PAX was aware of last week (brought it to his attention)..going to send pics now (this is very dangerous)....whoever is cutting the latest Yari Fork Steering Tubes for the X1 frame needs a vision checkup....and cutting the fork steering tube too short which then sits too far below the top of the Steering Stem.

              This is very dangerous and can easily cause a limited plug clamp/press to the fork tube within the steering stem. Take the Steering Stem cap off and look how far down the top of clamp/plug sits...with spacers provided below stem, the top of clamp plug should sit 3 to 5mm below top of Steering Stem.

              Only solution I could come to was to remove the smallest of spacer below the the steering stem. This will lower the bars though, unfortunately.

              Luna should reimburse/replace with "higher rise bars" or a new Yari fork.
              Last edited by KTMracer63; 1 day ago.

            Originally posted by ribeyesteaks View Post
            As an aside, on my first ride today, I took the bike down some fast downhill sections that are fairly rutty. Pretty hairy, and the bike was vibrating like mad. All of a sudden, the handle bar just flips around. I freak out even more as I start to pump the brakes. Then, the handlebar stem just becomes loose from the fork, and I'm like WTF?! I pretty much have no control over the bike, and I go down hard thinking I'm going to break a collarbone. Now, mind you, before the ride, I tightened the SHIT out of those hex screws beyond the torque spec. I'm REALLY surprised they still vibrated completely loose. Luckily, I packed my multi hex tool in my bag, but even my cheap Walmart e-MTB never failed on me like that on these mountains.

            Really not impressed, to be honest.
            Too low for my comfort level and a "safety issue" (1st pic)......the expander plug is even further below the hex head by about a .25", so the steering stem is not receiving "a full clamp" with the expansion plug.

            If the fork tube was cut a little bit higher enabling better clamping (2nd pic, this is with smaller spacer removed from below steering stem)...at this height, no extra spacer is needed below the top cap, however, the bar height just dropped.

            If Luna is cutting the fork tubes, this needs to be addressed ASAP.
            Attached Files
            Last edited by KTMracer63; 1 day ago.

            Comment


            • ribeyesteaks
              ribeyesteaks commented
              Editing a comment
              Still trying to figure out this forum format, but anyways, you're right. Better to err on the long side than short. I might get an angled stem to get an extra couple inches of height and change the ride geometry. It's fairly low and forward as it is. Losing the riser, like you said, will lower the bar. But, I think everyone should definitely check the hex screws for this red greasy film and wipe it off. Then add some loctite and retighten. The last thing you want is to lose control of your bike on a fast descent. My wrist is still hurting today, and I will have to wait till next weekend to ride again.

            • ribeyesteaks
              ribeyesteaks commented
              Editing a comment
              Actually, if you take off the stem riser, make sure you clamp all the way to the bottom.
              Last edited by ribeyesteaks; 1 day ago.

            • KTMracer63
              KTMracer63 commented
              Editing a comment
              Here's the funny part....installed the 2.1 Cartridge with the new C1 air spring (170mm) late last night.
              This morning, I first tested the stem with the smaller shim removed from below the stem...couldn't get rid of this play/knock from the headset.

              I then put the smaller shim back in under the stem, made sure everything was torqued properly. The play/knock disappeared.
              Btw...the 2.1 cartridge and 170mm upgrade made a significant improvement to the geometry of the bike (easier to loft, not so front end heavy), obviously a 10mm increase in travel with a tad more slack.....immediate thing I noticed was better steering/turning, with the stock 160mm air spring the bike had too much quirky over-steer for my liking. Honestly, still don't know if I like the stock 35mm fork/stanchions with this heavy of a bike (170mm is absolute furthest travel I'd go)...for harder core riding would feel much more comfortable with a Rockshox Zeb (beefier front end).
              Last edited by KTMracer63; 1 day ago.
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