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    #76
    the ratio of ebikers vs true mountain bikers is pretty skewed. The bike is such a great deal, you get lots of non mountain bikers buying them. Also, The trend among most folks is to have one bike do it all; the unicorn bike. Truth is, if you get really into biking you end up with a stable of bikes:). I peaked out at 5 bikes; Got er whittled down to 3.

    Comment


    • Robocam
      Robocam commented
      Editing a comment
      Looks like the X-1 is attracting "true" mountain bikers :) A full suspension frame equipped with an Ultra (aka G510 or M620) is probably the closest do-it-all bike to that unicorn. I myself have a GNG, Cyclone 3000, BBSHD, Ultra, and now the X-1 with the Ludicrous M600. If I had to choose three, I'd keep the Cyclone, Ultra and M600. :)
      Last edited by Robocam; 10-12-2019, 01:43 PM.

    • jmbach
      jmbach commented
      Editing a comment
      This bike is as close to a unicorn as I've seen. I currently have a Trek Superfly 100 Elite and a Moar 24/7. I've been waiting for a Moar Rapt II 1000w for over 2 years, and buying that is turning into the 2nd biggest mistake I ever made (getting married earlier this year was #1). I'm hoping that the X-1 can free me up to sell the Superfly. I have some great trails I can access out of my back yard. I have a 2 miles commute, but with 600+ feet of elevation change in those 2 miles, I get going plenty fast under gravity on the way in, and few bikes will get me above 25 on the way home.

    #77
    TORQUE SETTINGS

    Paxtana - suggestion on where to find? Do you have a list of URLs of torque settings you can post? Perhaps a page I just didn't find, sorry.

    Seems many (most??) aluminium bike parts are stamped with Nm torque values (yes, I'm a newbie)
    Might suggest every Luna built bike (all products??) includes a sheet of torque settings.
    And perhaps there are generally recommended values that most knowledgeable mechanics/engineers already know (by fastener size?)

    With higher speeds of electrics (and more riding time!) I'm trying to pay more attention to proper torquing and maintenance in general.

    Thanks for the help or suggestions.

    Comment


    #78
    Robocam, I did not lengthen the chain but that's a good idea. I'll do that. As for top speed, wheel off the ground on the smallest gear (previously locked out), 39.5 mph. I have yest to get the bike on a perfectly flat road, was very hilly where I was just at. Maybe later today. As I said before, it's fastest using the throttle lever only, not pedaling at all. If pedaling, even with the 40T ring, you can't pedal faster than 25 mph. It's electrically governed for some odd reason. The assist simply cuts out pedaling past 25 mph. I'm hoping that someone at Luna can come up with a cure? In settings, it says "top speed, 56 mph" but you can't ever go that fast with electric power, maybe coasting down a very long, steep hill but you could do that with any bike.

    Comment


    #79
    Joost, I think many were hoping that the X-1 was a bike that was not only a great mountain bike but one that was also fast on the open road, eliminating the need for having multiple ebikes.. When the initial posts about the bikes pre-order first begain on FB in the Fast Electric Bike group last June, someone asked about the bikes top speed, Eric said "35-40 mph". I saw the post recently. So some were, are disappointed about that. The Apollo might be a better alternative for some but it's also a lot more $$. As for having many bikes, I have 4 now (2 are Ebikes) and a few of us were talking about someday getting Sur Rons for fun too. Personally, I'd rather have one that did it all as traveling with multiple bikes isn't always easy. We just returned from a trip, I brought my 2 ebikes, one guy had his folding ebike in the SUV and there are 2 minibikes at our cabin. The minibikes do 33 mph on the roads and my 2 ebikes can't go as fast. Those things suck on trails however as they're cheap minibikes and have no suspensions at all so the rough terrain is brutal.

    Comment


    • joost
      joost commented
      Editing a comment
      I have 2 ebikes, one for trail riding(3000w) and a cargo bike(bbhsd) for getting groceries. If I didn’t work from home, I’d probably have a commuter bike. The Luna fixie seems like an interesting bike for that purpose. Frankly the x-1 would be a little too nice for me to lock it to a standard bike rack. As for the specs of the x-1, unless you have a double chainring in the front, I think it would be hard-pressed to get an enduro geared bike to do it all. I think Luna learned a lesson outsourcing the manufacturing overseas. There appears to be a disconnect of what was designed and what was actually delivered. I’m surprised Luna has not made a blog post outlining the changes from the original spec. It sounds like most folks are extremely happy with their bikes. This was kind of “kick starter” project so I can forgive the misrepresentation in the specifications of the x-1. I’d love a sur-Ron If I was into motor cross style riding. I can’t justify the price for the limited utility. I go on a camping trip 3 times a year to ride bikes. My main problem is keeping all the kids away from them so i can ride:).
      Ride on!

    #80
    Robocam, Was cold here today and I didn't have time but hopefully tomorrow I'll mess with it. As for chain length, not sure more length is the answer but perhaps adjusting the derailleur might work. There's an adjustment screw by the cable that adjusts its position and I now have mine set as close as possible. It allows more gear contact and more chain length wouldn't matter from what I'm seeing. I also think this bike could work with a 42T chain ring. Looks like there's more than enough space with my 40T on it now. As for sacrificing lower speeds on trails, doubt that. I had my bike on trails with the 40T and still never needed to shift it into its lowest gears on hills.

    Comment


    • Robocam
      Robocam commented
      Editing a comment
      Are you sure though? Because when I push down on the derailleur cage (the same thing a shorter chain would do), the guide pulley (jockey wheel closest to the cassette) takes the chain away from the cog, reducing chain wrap.

    #81
    If I change out the chainring with a 38T, do I need to lengthen the chain?

    Comment


    • joaklay
      joaklay commented
      Editing a comment
      I didn't with my 40T so far but it might help. So far, I get gear skipping in the 2nd smallest gear now ever since changing the chain ring.

    #82
    Robocam, you can adjust the position of that guide pulley for more chain wrap. Still need more time to determine if more chain length would help or not. I'll admit that I'm not expert with this stuff but I went out briefly today, way too cold out here the last couple days so I didn't really mess with it but I need to make more adjustments as it's not shifting right.

    Comment


    • Robocam
      Robocam commented
      Editing a comment
      I think what you're adjusting is the B-screw.
      https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...eur-adjustment
      Here's Sram's reply on how to size a chain. The following sentence applies to the X-1 because it is 1x with a clutch derailleur.
      "1x specific, Clutch style rear derailleurs will require 2 inches (2 inner and 2 outer links)."
      https://sram.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/ar...g-a-new-chain-
      To understand what this means, take a look at page 10 in the chain manual they have linked in the answer or here.
      https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/...d_chains_0.pdf
      Make sure to fully deflate the shock first so that the rear suspension is fully compressed.

    • joaklay
      joaklay commented
      Editing a comment
      I finally turned the bike upside down, adjusted the cable slack and derailleur while manually pedaling, going through the gears and managed to get it right. With the 40T gear and stock chain, it doesn't skip in any gear, doesn't jump off the smallest gear and can pedal it to 30 mph. Have a 42T gear now but I'm in no rush to install it as it's now Winter here, bike's in storage until Spring.

    #83
    currently loving the X-1, but had a question about charging. I am using the included charger and pulling the battery inside to charge. how much of a percentage /hour does the charger apply to the battery. Is there a better way to monitor without risking overcharging the battery. also will the included charger automatically shut off at 100%

    Comment


    • Robocam
      Robocam commented
      Editing a comment
      It will shut off automatically once the battery is fully charged. You cannot overcharge it. The percent-per-hour of charge varies during the charge cycle, so the best way to tell is to monitor the voltage. Here’s a good chart showing charge level and voltage. https://i.imgur.com/NFxzWwI.png
      Also, if you plan to store the battery longer than 30 days, I would bring it down to a charge level of about 40%. Lithium ion batteries don’t like being stored fully charged. Here’s some more info on storage. https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...tore_batteries
      Last edited by Robocam; 10-14-2019, 03:42 PM.

    #84
    Is there anything special about the throttle on the M600? will the Bafang twist throttle sold by Luna work?
    https://lunacycle.com/bafang-half-tw...le-right-side/
    Last edited by JimmyN; 10-14-2019, 07:37 PM.

    Comment


      #85
      First post, since X1 has Sram Guide brakes, stumbled upon this that may improve the lever slack.

      https://www.matter-replicator.com/pr...eslackinators/

      Not related in any way to product.

      Comment


        #86
        Hey guys, I threw together a manual for the display operation. I sourced the info from a couple of different places, so if there are mistakes, please let me know and I'll update the guide. It's on Github as well, so if you have an account, please don't hesitate to issue a pull request.

        https://bradland.github.io/unofficia...isplay-manual/

        Comment


          #87
          Originally posted by bradleyland View Post
          Hey guys, I threw together a manual for the display operation. I sourced the info from a couple of different places, so if there are mistakes, please let me know and I'll update the guide. It's on Github as well, so if you have an account, please don't hesitate to issue a pull request.

          https://bradland.github.io/unofficia...isplay-manual/
          Is the throttle affected by changes made to the assist?

          Comment


          • bradleyland
            bradleyland commented
            Editing a comment
            Yes. The assist level limits the power available at 100% throttle. You can still reach top speed in lower PAS settings, but if you're off-road, you'll want to turn up PAS to get the appropriate level of power for your situation. I tend to stick to PAS 3 on my Ludi version. I've only found the need for 4 & 5 on a couple of occasions.

          • bradleyland
            bradleyland commented
            Editing a comment
            I updated the guide to reflect this detail.

          #88
          According to this shock review, the Yari can be upgraded with some Lyrik components.

          https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/co...r-fork-review/

          What’s more, the Yari’s Motion Control damper can be upgraded to the Charger damper, like you’d get in a Lyrik, and the wiper seals can be swapped to Lyrik spec too during a routine service.

          So, the Yari has the scope to be upgraded to the point of being identical to the best fork on test should you wish to do so.

          Comment


            #89
            Originally posted by steelersmb View Post
            If I change out the chainring with a 38T, do I need to lengthen the chain?
            So I was finally able to get out and ride my bike after swapping out the chainring and it seems to shif tine without any adjustments. However, I didn't really notice too much if any difference in the max speed of the bike. Part of the issue may be that I live where there are a lot of little hills so I am constantly going up and down so it's hard to get a good speed on flat ground.

            Comment


              #90
              SRAM Guide brakes rated low in this test:

              https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-mtb-disc-brake-can-buy/

              At the affordable end of the market, the SRAM Guide T disappointed testers with its low power

              Don’t forget aftermarket pads too: in our tests fitting the Trickstuff Power+ brake pads to the SRAM Code R resulted in a 20% improvement in average braking torque, and an average of 18% improvement in deceleration times. Plus, they were quieter.

              Comment


              • bradleyland
                bradleyland commented
                Editing a comment
                That review is for the Guide T brakes. The X-1 comes with Guide R. Brakes are subjective and objective. Personally, I'm loving the Guide R brakes. They're extremely easy to modulate. They have a long throw, but I don't mind it considering how easy they are to modulate. IMO, too many people focus on raw stopping power. Let's be honest, none of us are Richie Rude. Powerful brakes are great, but if you struggle to modulate them, you're still going ass over handlebars.
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