Luna BABE bike

Drivetrain Tuning / adjustments / troubleshooting

Rear Sprocket popping out?

Make sure that the front sprocket is mounted correctly. We noticed that some sprockets were installed incorrectly on the spider making the belt line crooked.

It's an easy and permanent fix for this issue. See step 2 below if yours has already popped out.

Also there is a side to the sprocket, if you look carefully there is a slight offset on one side. How to know what side to use? The "CARBON DRIVE CDX" is printed bigger on one side. So the right side is the bigger one facing you!

Belt/IGH issues - skipping

There are several things that can cause belt or IGH to skip or slip. We will cover each of these items below. Please follow along step by step.

1.IGH should be in proper adjustment
Adjusting the internal geared hub

This bike is using the new Sturmey-Archer RSX-RK5 IGH but maintenance and adjustment is like the C50 series IGH, click here for the full manual.

As for the adjustment if you get any grinding or skipping it might be because the IGH needs to be adjusted, so please follow this procedure

Note: You can adjust the IGH using the adjuster knob at the end of the cable next to the shifter. Make sure to shift a few time from 1 to 2 and then from 2-3 to see if the adjustment is good.

2.The circlip needs to be on the IGH.
If it has come off somehow (likely due to incorrect belt line) , You need to tighten it back, here is how to bend it back into a proper circle and place back onto the IGH.

Also there is a side to the sprocket, if you look carefully there is a slight offset on one side. How to know what side to use? The "CARBON DRIVE CDX" is printed bon one side. So the right side is the printing should be facing the IGH, not you!

If you do not have a bench vise, you can use a hose clamp to close the gap, Thanks to Robert N for the tip

1 First you need to bend the clip just enough to get the two ends to overlap slightly.
2 Position the ring and tin insert (see pic) into the hose clamp and tighten slightly just until it stays in the clamp. make sure the open ends of the ring and the tin piece of metal are at the top (the screw adjuster) part of the clamp.
3 maneuver the ring so it is centered (side to side) in the clamp.
4 using a socket wrench tighten the clamp, you need to move the end of the ring a least 1" before any bending stays in the clip. don't attempt to do this using a screwdriver.
5 it may slip out while tightening, just do over, be patient.
6 once you start making progress put a mark (sharpie) at the spot where the end of the ring while tightened. if you need to squeeze more you will know where you have to go past to get more results.
7 First got it to 1/8" then 1/4" and stopped at 3/8" overlap. each time tightening the hose clamp just a little more.

The reason for the tin insert is the clip seemed to not seat where the screw mechanism is on the hose clamp and kept slipping out. also the open ends of the clip should be in the tin insert so they do not get caught up in the gaps on the hose clamp.

3. Adjust belt tension around 80-90hz with the Gates belt app

Belt tension is an important and often overlooked factor in our testing of causes. Often it can feel or sound like something is internal, but the actual issue is the belt essentially skipping. This is invisible to the naked eye but if you shoot a video in slow-motion while getting it to skip (and after eliminating the above other potential causes) you should be able to see it.

Adjusting the Gates carbon drive belt:

This bike uses the same dropouts and the same gates drive system as the Luna Fixed Stealth bike so please refer to the manual over here (click link) or watch this video from the 1min mark

The Tension on this model should be 80hz-90hz (max 94hz), and must be checked a multiple places on the belt. make sure that the axle nuts are very tight to avoid any movements or axle twisting.

4 Rear Wheel Alignment:

This step is crucial to avoid any belt skipping or rear pulley popping out. We covered a bit of this in the video about tensionning the belt. The key is to have a perfect belt line once you have the proper tension. Do not over look this step! Under high load the frame will slightly twist (all frame do BTW) and the alignment will be a little off so if it's already a little off it will go way off! And under load the center "CenterTrack" (Gates invented this) of the belt will not be able to fit int he center spline of the rear sprocket/pulley and the belt will jump a few teeth.

Again make sure the axles nuts are very tight once done, then re- check alignment and tension.

NOTE: if you can't get it perfect best would be to have the wheel a bit to the right (front of the tire closer to the belt, or the exact opposite of the bottom drawing) because under tension the front of the wheel will have a tendency to move to the left side of the bike. Not by a lot or you will have skipping under no load (or the tire will rub on the belt.

5.Check for any frayed or damaged cable
Inspect the cable for any physical damage, including the housing but especially at the point where it connects to the IGH. If it is frayed or damaged, that should be repaired.

6. Adequately captured axle rotation
We have a custom solution that helps prevent this, they are now on hand for anyone that needs one. This replaces part of the tensioner assembly.
It fits in the dropout and is an improvement over the stock parts, but is not the only thing to keep in mind regarding this issue. This will only prevent the axle from twisting or moving under load, might be useful for some who experienced internal skipping on gear #3.

7. The bike is NOT being started from a stop in 1st or 2nd rather than a high gear
In other words, care is being taken not to lug the drivetrain in the wrong gear. If it is too much for you to pedal without the motor on, then you probably have it in the wrong gear. Always start in 1st or second gear, never in 3rd,4th or 5th.

8. Inspect the belt and pulleys
Remove the belt do not bend it more than 2 inch radius, inspect the inside track and teeth. Inspect the pulleys do any signs of damage to the center track or teeth. Also turn the front ring to see if you have any wobbling, repeat for the rear.

Warning, would should never shift under load (that includes throttle and pedal), you can pedal while shifting but you need to avoid putting any pressure on the pedals! It's the same for all IGH hubs (ebikes or non-ebikes). Shifting under load will likely result in a misshift, permanent clanking noise or simply a broken gear.
Tip on shifting: You need to stop pedalling and also wait until the motor power down before attempting to shift. Click here for more details

Specs

30'' standover
6 feet long overall
Weight: 65 lbs total with 7lb battery. 58lbs without battery.
30.9mm seatpost
31'' bars
80mm stem, ~15 degree rise
Rotors: 180 rear, 203 front
Rim specs: 26" fatbike rims 80mm. Effective wheel size is more like 29er since it's a fattie even though it is 26".
IGH (rear hub) Specs: Measures 190mm at dropout
Standard barrel charge port (charger included)
Chainring bolts are standard single speed model like this

Display is a special display that works only with this bike, no other display will work for it. It uses CAN communication so it will not work with any BBSxx / Ultra series display. This display also has a USB port, a nice surprise. To change the basic settings of the display hold down + & -.

The battery is charged with a standard barrel. This means you can use something like the solderless barrel in conjunction with 48v Advanced Charger or 48v Mini to charge the bike if preferred over the included charger.

This bike has a temp sensor and high temp cutoff to prevent damage to the motor/controller.
At high temp it will scale back the power. If heat continues to rise, it will briefly shut down to protect the internals.

Before your first ride

Please make sure the stem and handlebar bolts are secure and check the front axle, tire pressure, brakes, and such. Adjust the suspension fork to your liking with the rebound and compression knobs and add/remove air in the fork to get the correct sag based on your weight and ridging style. Charge the battery fully (wait till the green light is on).

ON this specific model you will have to check the belt tension and wheel alignment(Click here on how to adjust the tension)and make sure the axle is very tight. Once you have the proper tension set and axle tight, check the shifter alignment/adjustment (see down below).

Turn ON the system:

This is the selector on the handlebars. Hold down power button (bottom) for 3-5 seconds to turn on.

Riding the bike:

Make sure to start in the right gear (like in first or second) this is an IGH so you have no excuses not to be able to shift from a dead stop!!! Starting in top gear at full throttle and full pedal power will put a lot of torque on the IGH and belt drive and can lead to belt skipping and IGH issues. If you ever experience clanking noise, check the belt tension again making sure it's at least over 80hz (you can go up to 94hz) and make sure the shifting adjustment is correct.

Q&A

Aftermarket chargers?
This charges with standard barrel, so any 48v nominal li-ion charger that uses or can be modded for barrel will work. Our Advanced charger is a popular one. You will need this barrel connector to replace the default xt60.

Rack mounts?
No rack mounts at this time, you might use a seatpost mounted rack though. This may be a good example as it is reinforced. For higher weight capacity this could also be a good example. If the type of rack is desired that uses M5 bolts on the bottom, this can be added with the Luna no drill mounts.

Top speed?
Somewhere around 27mph. Depends on terrain, rider weight, tire pressure and so on.

What display does it use?
This one. There is also an upgrade color display available when in stock, it is on this listing

Limit speed through display?
No

Walk mode?
Yes

E-Brake sensor?
Disabled for simplicity on the BABE

Can I go bigger on tire width?
Looks like you could fit a 5 inch tire but it would be tight, not 100% sure

Battery removal

Put the key in and turn it then twist the latch located on the battery, the battery will drop out.

Rear wheel removal (to change a flat)

Loosen both 15mm axle nuts
Loosen the tensioner (Click here to see the tensioner nut)
take the belt off the bike
Shift into top gear and remove the shift cable off the fulcrum (See video below)
Remove the wheel
Put back the wheel
Put the shift cable back in (watch the video below)
adjust the tension (see this link , it's the same as the Luna Fixed, tension is 94hz max )
Tighten both axle nut real hard

For step 4 please watch this following video:

Electrical Troubleshooting

Normally the display will show you an error code if there is a problem sensed by the controller, please see below the error code list

04 Throttle on high position : Throttle stuck or broken, unplug and plug back, replace if needed.
05 Throttle error : Incorrect throttle signal, check connection or replace the throttle
11 Motor over temperature : Could means the temp sensor is unplugged or missing, in case of a real overheating the controller will shutdown the system (after showing you the Error 14)
12 Current sensor error : Controller problem, contact LuanCycle
14 Motor‘s temperature sensor : Motor temperature high, reduce the load or let the motor cool off, can happen after a long climb at higher power levels
15 Controller over temperature : Could be a problem with the controller, normally you will get error 14
21 Speed sensor error : speed sensor issue, see if magnet aligned (see pic below)
25 Torque sensor error : Torque sensor signal problem, either disconnected or controller or sensor issue, throttle will also stop working.
30 Communication error : Communication signal error, likely is a connection failure, please check that all your connections are firm (see below)

IF you are experiencing cut outs, error 30 or complete shutdown (unrelated to overtemp shutdown) please follow these 3 steps.

1) This is the battery, showing a standard led power readout, on/off button, and barrel charge port. Make sure that the power button is pressed in and lighting up. Remove the battery and inspect the terminals.

2) Display connections: 2x Green harness wire that goes into the back of the display needs to be shoved in really hard, if you are having trouble turning it on be sure to check this and the other connectors. Recommended to unplug the connector before firmly plugging it back in.

3) The motor main connections.

ON the left side of the motor you will find a plastic plate with 3 screws, remove that plate to expose the connections.

ON the far left you have the main harness multipin connector, the middle (purple) is the gearsensor (N/A) and the on on the right is the speedometer. Please check these 2 it's possible that one is halfway out an giving issues. Press them in really hard, just like the display connector, you can use a plier with tape on it to help you out.

On on the far right you have the battery main power lead (yellow XT60), you can unplug this one and measure the voltage from the battery to be sure that you dont have a bad connection. With the power button to ON, you should be measure anything from 38V to 54.6V.

Error 21H or erratic speed reading?

Please make sure that the magnet is properly aligned with the sensors

Removing the bare motor.

Removing the motor is pretty easy, no special tools required.
Remove bash guard (4x hex bolts )
Remove plastic cover on non drive side (3x torx bolts T10)
Remove chainring bolts (not necessary to remove spyder )
Remove the 3 mounting bolts (5mm hex and 10mm socket.
Motor will drop down . ( 3 plugs go into the side of motor)

The connectors directly on the bare motor. Check the connection here during troubleshooting in addition to the harness.

How to remove the chainring bracket (AKA Spider) from the motor (if you must open the motor for service):
This is recessed so a typical ring spanner will not work. A socket style bottom bracket tool for screw in bearing cups does the job. This tool will work: Bike Hand YC-29BB-2A as well as YC-29BB. Bafang socket tools will also work. A chain whip is needed to hold the chainring when removing the locking nut. The lockring is reverse or right hand-threaded, so you must turn it clockwise to remove it.

We have a video on how to remove the motor to change the gear with a PEEK silent gear. This might help you remove the motor from the bike

Note: that you do not have to remove the spider (as seen at the 0:23 mark) if you do not have the deep splined socket tool. You only need to remove the spider if you are opning the motor