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Is a 3.1 mA battery drain after charging a concern?

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    I don't have any desire to fiddle with my chargers but I sure wouldn't do it unless I knew exactly what the pots did and I sure wouldn't do it with a cheap low accuracy meter... but that's just me... the only reason I would fuss with them is if the calibrated bench meter showed they were off from nominal and I was totally confident I knew which turn did what....


      Originally posted by eCooker View Post
      Mine is not like either of the ones in that post...
      Which comes as no surprise as the Mini has probably gone thru several different generations of types and perhaps manufactures. But the main point I was making is that if you look closely at the green PCB and the screened white parts labels. You may see next to the pot, designations that we have discussed. V1, A1, and ZH1.

      So if you do, and they match, I would feel confident that they would adjust the parameters as discussed in Sebz's Charger thread.

      As AZguy points out a good meter is a must. And as Sebz points out... Make sure your battery cells are all good, and balanced!

      That said I don't think you could get into too much trouble turning the shut-off current down a bit. As the worst that could happen is that it would take a long time to shut off... but you need to have the right pot!

      See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.


        Thanks but mine don't have V1, A1, and ZH1.
        I took some better images today. Please cut and paste these links in a new tab:
        This one looks like "VR3"
        This one looks like something then "V" in brackets?
        This one looks like amps "I (A)" ?

        Regarding the cutoff current (when I know which pot to adjust) = 5% of rated output right?
        So my 3amps x 58.8 charger is 176.4 Watts. I can set my CC to 3 x 5% = 150mA Correct? (Currently 260mA) Label on charger:


          For easier viewing...

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          I would double check your charging output (3 amps with a low battery). But I certainly agree with your math and final desired setting if it is truly putting out 3 amps...
          I(A)= current seems straight forward. I would guess that VR3 is voltage adjust, and 0(V) is current cut-off from board location... Perhaps someone knows for sure?
          See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.


            Hi eCooker,

            Did you get this sorted out ok? I have someone with what looks like the same board designations and I want to verify with you if I guessed correctly on which were which. And a bonus if you say which direction they had to be turned for what result... :-)
            See my completed Magic Pie V5 rear hub motor E-Bike build HERE.