Luna BBSHD Ludicrous V2 controller documentation

[marcos]

I can't reproduce the issue... Is this happening when you tap the voltage presets (WOLF 52V / DIRE WOLF 52 / POWER WOLF 72V) or when you read/write the settings to the controller?

[marcos]

Oops, let me check. That number only affects the battery SOC gauge, doesn't affect anything else so I might have missed that

[xcnick]

The number of cells does not always follow the change from 72 to 52 volts and back again.

[xcnick]

I am learning it doesn't take as much power as I thought. I am more rock crawling than blasting up. I hardly crack the throttle, but it has to be precise or I loose traction. The ramp up was working well for me. Id amps only went to about 10, so it was a fairly efficient climb. This analysis program is an eye opener.

[marcos]

Cool, it looks like an easy ride, about 2kW with a brief 3kW peak, at about 1/3 of the available torque

[xcnick]

I ran a hill climb at 72 volts which only made it heat up to about 65 centigrade. At 52 it did get hotter over the same task.

[xcnick]

How many mistakes can one guy make? I happen to have a motor core in storage, it might solve the alignment pin and connector boneheads.

[marcos]

If its making contact and working I'd leave it that way. The point of the white plastic is to function as a latch, but if the whole thing came off I reckon it could slip out again.

[xcnick]

doh! I looked at the old controller and no connector stuck to it. I may have made this mistake years ago. It looks like if it sits in there just right it still makes contact with the board. I will go through my bone yard of controllers in the next couple of days. Will I have to solder it back to the board if and when I find it?

[marcos]

ha, I'm being told this, which makes sense:

"the white connector has been pulled out of the PCB
he's missing the white connector tell him to check for it on the end of his old controller
he didn't unlatch the lock before he pulled it"

[marcos]

Okay, happy ending! I'm reaching out now to learn more about that green connector, its the first time I see one of those.

[marcos]

oh that pin, no clue where to get those but I reckon they are important. The air gap between rotor and stator is only 0.5mm so it needs to be precisely centered

[xcnick]

I did the swap and now they both work properly. Bad connection is my thought. the long white connector goes into a different colored female in each motor. The problem setup has a green connector and I can't get the white one from the controller to lock into place. It doesn't have a lip for it to clip to. I think with the installation I just did, it didn't wiggle loose and why it works now. I started a new post so I could give a picture of both.

[AZguy]

If I didn't have one on hand I might run without it until I could get one in... but I don't know, I haven't had mine apart in a long time... those pins locate things pretty precisely and it would be odd if a chinese supplier where cost is near the top of the list of concerns would put a part, no matter how inexpensive, in if it didn't provide good product value (reliability, etc.)

OTOH I remember being very impressed when I saw how the plastic gear (primary reduction) cover had threaded holes to allow the screws that hold the cover on to be used as a cover puller since it would be hard to get that off without... they had to thread those holes which costs money and they don't provide any value from reducing assembly labor costs or adding reliability, just for disassembly

[xcnick]

AZ guy, do you think it matters? It sits in a close tollerance ring, seams to work, it just might be clocked a thousands off with only the bolts.